AVS Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished completing the color wheel mod to my LT-150 and still have the case open to let it dry fully.


Given that the purpose of coloring in the white section is to get rid of stray light that makes it's way through, I was wondering something. Maybe everyone already did this and I just missed the thread but wouldn't it make sense to black out the edges of all the colors? Afterall, sideways scattered light isn't going to be very beneficial anyway. Since the wheel is still the original color, all you should eleminate is light leakage.


Did this already get discussed by the experts at hand or am I on the wrong track?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,091 Posts
I don't think anyone tried the mod you are talking about. Most of the further mods involved darkening the light chamber and different aperature sizes. Why don't you try it and see what happens? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very well - I will give it a shot.


In order to see if it makes a difference, I will measure my PJ with a spot meter (used in photography) and take a few shots with my digital camera set to a specific apeture/exposure setting.


Don't know if it will do much but I would be happy if it helped just a little.

I would not even have a home theater if it were not for this forum so anything I can contribute would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Interesting....


My gut feeling is that it won't make much of a difference though :/.


I'll keep my eye out for your findings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,132 Posts
Guy Kuo used black silicon paste to fill in the clear gap on both sides of the clear section with negligible but measurable improvement in blacks and contrast. I assume that if you do all the edges of all the other colors section it would be a measurable difference but ? visual difference. I'll be following this thread with great interest as I have plenty of silver paint left :D


I think Cinemaphile also tried to paint stripes on the green section (to decrease the green output) but it messed up the color. Nice thing is paint thinner can reverse this paint mod.


My Testor paint held up after 200 hours of use as I checked the other day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just wanted to thank Cinemaphile and Guy for coming up with the black out mod for the LT-150. I watched a few select scences of movies last nght and really saw a great improvment.


Before I got into this hobby, I focused on 2 channel audio. When reading reviews of various high end equipment you will envariablly come across something along the lines of "I heard details in familar music that I had never heard before once I started using the "XYZ Triphaser". Since I usually don't have the $10,000 to buy the Triphaser, I shrug ans say "good for you".


This $4.00 tweak (along with cleaning out the mirrors, bulb, etc.) made that type of improvement for me. Watching Shrek, I turned to the scene with the dragon since it is pretty dark and I wanted to see if there was any improvement. After Shrek rescues the princess and runs by the skelton of the knight who left an burned outline on the wall, I found that the relief stood out much better than. I also saw that there is a man size billboard next to it that shows how to get the "choice cuts" off of a man. I had never seen that before since it was lost in the shadows until now.


In Fifth Element-SBT, the scene where Lelo escapes and is crawling through the tunnel to escape to the ledge. The guards that are chasing her are wearing dark armor and are in a poorly lit tunnel. Once I got my Firehawk screen I was able to get more detail from the guy in front. With the mod, I could also see details in the guys behind him.


Overall, the images had more depth and 3-D quality than before. I am using the FLD filter and that helped correct the greenish color tone but it did not provide the degree of improvement that the black out mod did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Just a repeat of an original question I've seen about where to get the Testor maker... I've tried all the Walmarts in my area and none stock the silver just 3-packs of other colours... Black/Red/Yellow I think. Is there any other place which I could get one shipped to Canada?


Thanks for any suggestions,


Miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
Miles,

I bought mine at a local hobby store, the kind that sells model cars and planes. I just painted my color wheel last night and I think we can do another 80-100 projectors with this marker. Send me a private message and I'll send you mine. Unless of course Testor will get mad and complain that I am infriging on their copyright protection by sharing the marker I bought...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Frode
I don't see anything in that thread about the edges of the color wheel (which incidentally would be pointless) - but the filling in the gaps one looks interesting (should help slightly - but it sounds more difficult to get right).
So... on the topic of the enhanced testor mod "2.0", anyone wanna clarify exactly what "blacking out the edges of all the colors" means - specifically? I imagine we are talking about silvering over the thin outside edges of the colorwheel glass (if we were talking about a u.s. quarter, the part with the little ridges and the copper coloring - what you see when you are looking directly at the disc's thinnest dimension).


Attached is an image of an LT150 colorwheel with the areas of the colorwheel for the black epoxy and testor paint enhancements highlighted. I can add graphics to show "colorwheel edge blackouts" if we can get a good description of what exactly that means. And on a related note for those that have done this, can you quantify the pq improvement after silvering the colorwheel edges - if any?


Quote:
I just wanted to thank Cinemaphile and Guy for coming up with the black out mod for the LT-150. I watched a few select scenes of movies last night and really saw a great improvement.
I'll second that!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had originally posted this since I noticed that the edges of the entire color wheel are clear. If the color wheel were a quarter, it would be where the little ridges run around the outside edge.


I had wondered out loud if it would make any difference to blacken these in to eleminate another possible source of light leakage. Since then I have been watching movies and not bothered to take it apart again but if I can find where I put that marker, I will give it a shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,679 Posts
If you actually look at the color wheel assembly inside the projector you'll notice that only a small square lets light through and into the light chamber. This means you don't even have to black out the whole clear section - only enough to block light from going through the square. Blacking the edges themselves thus becomes as pointless as the old "audiophile pen" you were supposed to use on CD edges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
Miles - I found my Testor Silver paint pen at a Grand & Toy. Do you have any in your area?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
It may have taken a while but I've finally aquired a marker. Had to order it from a local Model shop... I'll give the mod a try this weekend... I believe one of the posts on the board mentions how to take the cover off the LT-150...


One question though: Does the colour wheel spin freely? Is is OK to manually spin it around to paint the clear section? Or do you have to paint it in what-ever position you find it?


I guess it may seem like a dumb question, but worth knowing :)


Thanks again,


Miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
You can turn the wheel with your hand no problem.


If you make any mistakes, you can take off the paint with alcohol on a swab.


Search for 'Deeper Inside the LT150' for pictures on the process.


Kelly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
The wheel spins freely BUT try not to get fingerprints or other dirt on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,976 Posts
Move the wheel with a cue tip. I did mine by just removing the bulb. Others have taken the whole case apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,735 Posts
I know that most of you are using the Testors enamel and I've read that you need to touch up your wheels every so often. I'm wondering if there is any harder/better material that could be used. The reason I ask is that the LT150 wheel spins at 120Hz and the M20x wheel spins at 180Hz (I believe I have those correct). So, my concern is that this solution wouldn't be as robust for people considering doing this on projectors with faster wheels.


Thanks,

Darin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
My take it doesn't matter how many RPM the wheel is turning at (I do not think Htz as unit of measure is best to describe a turning disk IMO), it will still give you the same overall amount of time when the clear section is passing thru direct white light from the bulb in a given segment of time. Just at faster shorter durations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,735 Posts
Erdc,


My concern is with the pressure on the enamel. A faster wheel causes more G-force.


Have you even seen those frisbees that spin really fast at fairs, where you get to paint the frisbee for a small fee. What if you checked out your mod a few days later and it looked like that :) Could be that it wasn't dry enough or that the material isn't robust enough.


--Darin
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top