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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After close to 10 years of wanting, last summer I finally purchased a house with a 15x20x8 room suitable for a nice theater. So I've thought up the requisite fruity sounding name, thrown together some sketchup drawings, and am ready to start tearing into some walls.

Some of the current plans:

- 2 rows with 12" riser, trying to cram in 7 seats

- closet in back of room will be converted into equipment/projection room. I hate equipment noise and will be glad to finally get it out of the room.

- 9.3 surround, with pro style compression driver/waveguide speakers up front mounted in a baffle wall, and DIY tapped horn subwoofers (think DTS-20 knockoffs). I was planning originally on building some Econowave variants up front, but after looking at some more pro speakers the QSK KW series look very tempting. I like listening at reference level and want it to sound absolutely clean. I have some Paradigm Studios now which are nice, but start to break up at higher levels.

- Coffered ceiling with LED rope lights

- 135" AT screen, and by the time I'm done building there will be a LED/laser based 4k glasses-less-3D projector spitting out 5000 lumens for like $800.


Here's the room in it's current state. You can see two of the three windows I'm going to wall over. There is also a tray ceiling built into the room already. I may leave the try ceiling as is, and add on coffers to it.



View of the back. There's a MA rack I scored off craigslist sitting in what will be converted into a equipment closet.



Sketchup view. I've got it at about a 48 degree viewing angle for the front row and 33 degree rear with a 135 screen. I have it mocked up as kind of a charcoal man-cave, with wood trim to warm things up. I'm thinking I might go with more of a brown for the fabric walls.



Top view. Front two columns are just for decor and may contain my tapped horns. Other columns contain speakers.




 

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I have a very similar sized room measuring 16 x 21, and will be following your thread closely. My entrance door is where your equipment room door lies, and we will obviously enter the room right onto the riser. I'm also struggling with trying to fit 4 seats in the front row with enough room to get between the seats and the wall. I will have exposed surrounds with no columns. May I ask what seats fit the dimensions you laid out? Also, how much space between the first and second rows of chairs? Finally, how deep is the space behind your false wall?


As I lay everything out, I really wish I had 18' width and around 22' depth to work with to get the back row further off the rear wall and surrounds with room for rear subs. But, we work with what we've got
 

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I like the sketchup - looks like a nice plan. Are the surrounds going in the columns? It appears that they could be a bit more shallow and allow a few inches more clearance for the first row, though 23" seems okay.


Good use of the closet as an equipment/projection room. Do you have any concerns or plans for heat build up with all of the equipment and the pj in there?


Reference level is pretty loud. Are you planning for sound isolation?


Good luck.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rader /forum/post/19579733


So I've thought up the requisite fruity sounding name...

Hahahaha!! That's funny.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rader /forum/post/19579733


pro style compression driver/waveguide speakers up front mounted in a baffle wall

Have you looked at the Chase Home Theater (nee Tweak City Audio) PRO-10s / SHO-10s? Another option you may want to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 /forum/post/19580738


I have a very similar sized room measuring 16 x 21, and will be following your thread closely. My entrance door is where your equipment room door lies, and we will obviously enter the room right onto the riser. I'm also struggling with trying to fit 4 seats in the front row with enough room to get between the seats and the wall. I will have exposed surrounds with no columns. May I ask what seats fit the dimensions you laid out? Also, how much space between the first and second rows of chairs? Finally, how deep is the space behind your false wall?

I modeled the chairs after the dimensions of the Bass Industries Celebrity lounger: ( http://www.bassind.com/prod_one.cfm?...072&catid=1007 ). They are narrower than some other seats at 38" wide, which saves you a bit of space over say berkliners. I personally prefer seats which are narrower since I always feel like I'm sitting in the corner or reaching for the armrest in huge recliners.

I originally wanted the love seat on the riser, just no way to make it fit and still maintain the 36" isle around the riser. Also can't move the door. I'm considering the seats flanking the love seat to be auxiliary, and will probably never be used unless I have a bunch of people over. I think they look cool though.

The screen wall is about 12" deep. Final depth will depend on which speaker I end up going with. I need enough depth to flush mount the speaker and still be able to plug in wires to the back of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie /forum/post/19581404


I like the sketchup - looks like a nice plan. Are the surrounds going in the columns? It appears that they could be a bit more shallow and allow a few inches more clearance for the first row, though 23" seems okay.


Good use of the closet as an equipment/projection room. Do you have any concerns or plans for heat build up with all of the equipment and the pj in there?


Reference level is pretty loud. Are you planning for sound isolation?


Good luck.

Yeah, I modeled the columns after the deepest of the surround speakers I'm considering (QSC AD-S82). That was before I read about BigMouthInDc's idea where he partially recessed the speakers into boxes in the wall. I really wanted to see what the room would look like with the deep columns, but I agree the columns should be shallower.

Re: Heat in the equipment closet: I'm planning on adding a Panasonic Whisper Ceiling fan which comes on at around 80F, and pumps hot air from the closet into the attic. I also need to figure out how/where to add a HVAC return in the room

Re: Sound Isolation. Yeah. My neighbors house is about 12 ft away. They have something like 10 kids that go to bead at 8pm. I usually start watching movies at around 10 pm. On a weeknight. I'll do another post on sound isolation. I have a bunch of issues and crazy ideas that I'm sure everyone on the forum will shoot a load of holes through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19582195


Have you looked at the Chase Home Theater (nee Tweak City Audio) PRO-10s / SHO-10s? Another option you may want to consider.

I'm looking at the forum favorites like JTRs and those. Seatons are just out of my price range. I originally had my heart set on JBL 4622, ala Mktheater's theater. But they are a little bit excessive for residential spaces I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First order of business:


I have to admire the planning on the part of the home builder to make sure every last slot on the main service panel was occupied. Right now the lights and outlets in my theater room are on a single 15 amp breaker, which is also shared with another bedroom (which we will be using as a gym with it's own AV setup).

So I'm adding a 100 AMP subpanel. For the theater I'm planning to add two more circuits for the equipment closet, and possibly another circuit to put the room outlets on a separate circuit from the lights. I hate it when you trip a breaker and the room goes dark.


In addition to the circuits for the theater room, I'm adding two dedicated circuits for a future jetted tub install and two more for my garage. My garage has a total of two outlets on a 15 amp breaker, and one of those is occupied by my FIOS and sprinkler system, so I effectively have one. At my last house my air compressor had about a 50% hit rate at tripping the 15 amp circuit. I don't want to deal with that again, and want the option for 240v.


If there are no further updates from me... assume the worst.

 

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I like your plan and your sketchup. It looks really sharp with color scheme and the wood trim.


My room is also similar in size to yours @ 16x19.


Are you going to do sound isolation and keep the double doors?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rader /forum/post/19606952


So I'm adding a 100 AMP subpanel.

I think that makes the best sence. You can far more easily address ground loop issues if the come up, have quick access to shut off things, etc. I have mine in my equipment closet and would do it again.
 

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I had a similar problem. Last winter I hired an electrician to replace my breaker box with a bigger one. I have plenty of empty breaker spots now, and can use a double breaker in a few of them to allow for even more. My old one had push-a-matic breakers which are hard to find. Total cost, $500. Before, I had a lot of trouble with tripping breakers. I haven't had that problem yet with the new box and breakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner /forum/post/19607379


Are you going to do sound isolation and keep the double doors?

I was wondering how long it would take before someone picked on my double doors.
I've gone back and forth on it, but I'm leaning towards keeping them, primarily for aesthetics. I may change my mind again, depending on how many of you repeatedly tell me it's a stupid idea.

It's also going to depend on me finding a suitable slab and seals. Lowes has some nice 1 3/4" solid exterior wood fire doors for $55, but only in 32" and 36". I need 30" for my double doors.

I was planning to build a custom jamb/threshold with a 1" lip (sorry, don't know the correct word) all the way around to hold some beefy seals. Here's a top down cross section of the door plan itself which is easier to draw a pic of than describe:

 

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The problem with the doors is that the bigger the area they have, the less it matters what you make the walls out of bc more than half the sound will escape through the doors. It depends on what you are doing with the rest of the room. If you are going all out, then the doors will bring you down.
 

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I feel your pain - my HT build is connected to my detached garage - it had an existing subpanel, but wasn't "to code" (I'm sure it was at some time, but codes change). It cost me more than I want to admit to have my contractor install a new subpanel, and rewire from the main panel to the subpanel (~70' long run in an underground conduit) with heavier guage wire.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rader /forum/post/19582575


I originally had my heart set on JBL 4622, ala Mktheater's theater. But they are a little bit excessive for residential spaces I think.

No they aren't
 

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I would anticipate that door as drawn will be difficult to seal. If anything is out of alignment at all, you'll have a seal failure. Generally acoustic seals are adjustable every 12" to account for this as well as settling that occurs over time.


The double door will simply never work as well as a single door. A heck of a lot more seals to fail, the cener astragal is always problematic, even with a specialty seal, and Andreas' point looms constantly. More door = less wall
 

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I saw and heard MKTheater's fronts. They were absolutely ridiculous.
You have to have some (a LOT) room to place them and don't run them at more than a watt or so unless you want to be in pain! They sounded great though.


Double doors would work better if you made one immobile and silensealed all around it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner /forum/post/19614683


Double doors would work better if you made one immobile and silensealed all around it.

Yes, and then decouple from that fixed door and double drywalled like the rest of the wall...
 
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