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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Current system configuration:


Subwoofers:

(8) Ported Incriminator Audio Judge 21" (12cu.ft boxes tuned to 14hz)
(2) Othorns (loaded with B&C 21-IPAL drivers)

L/R Mains:

Dual AE TD18H+ in 9.5cu.ft 25hz ported boxes, SEOS-24 w/BMS 4594ND

Center:

AE TD15M in a 4cu.ft 45hz ported box, SEOS-12 w/Denovo DNA-360

Surrounds:

(4) Radian 5210 in .60cu.ft angled boxes. Crossovers designed/built by Matt Grant (mtg90)


Amplifiers:

(3) SpeakerPower SP2-12000 (Othorns and the ported 21s)
Crest CC4000 (quad AE TD18H+)
Lab Gruppen IPD 2400 (SEOS-24 w/BMS 4594ND)
Crown XLS 2500 (center)
Behringer iNuke NU4-6000 (surrounds)
Behringer iNuke 3000DSP (Crowsons)

Processor, EQ, and Blu-ray:

Marantz AV7005
MiniDSP 10x10HD
Oppo BDP-93
HTPC (JRiver)

Misc:

For measurement equipment I have a iSEMcon EMM-7101 and a SoundFirst SF101a. Mic preamp is a Motu UltraLite AVB.

There are 6 circuits dedicated to the amp rack, and a 7th circuit also but that's shared with the room. The SpeakerPower amps are each on dedicated 240v 30A lines, and the Crest CC4000 is on a dedicated 20A 120v line.



Construction:

This area, roughly 12.5'x23' is going to be my dedicated theater space.

Facing north:



Facing south:




On my old system, quad LMS 5400s, here's what the supporting wall would do:


I over doubled the 15-30hz output since then, so I put two layers of 5/8" drywall on that wall which dramatically helped.


UPDATE:

Moved the return air to the other side of the room:





Facing north:




Facing south:




Dedicated circuits for the amp rack:




Facing south:




Riser made from 2x6s on the perimeter, 2x4s going across the center, and two layers of OSB on top. Facing north.




R19 denim insulation in all floor joists:




Ceiling:







Done!

 

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Man you gotta be excited for the dedicated room! If it were me I would think extra drywall, not sure how much. I've also heard of green glue and whisper clips to decouple and further isolate from vibration.
 

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Three layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue dampening between layers. mount the walls, ceiling and soffits hiding those ducts using a clip and channel isolation method. Address HVAC isolation and all holes in the drywall bunker for electrical etc with appropriate strategies. click the curve frenzy theater in my signature for a similarly insane audio adventure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23827544


Three layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue dampening between layers. mount the walls, ceiling and soffits hiding those ducts using a clip and channel isolation method. Address HVAC isolation and all holes in the drywall bunker for electrical etc with appropriate strategies. click the curve frenzy theater in my signature for a similarly insane audio adventure.

Wow, 3 layers?


How much could the OS LFU vibrate those walls?
 

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I'll keep an eye on this one, good luck moving forward.
 

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^ Me too.


Luke, I'm not surprised at the recommendation for 3 layers. My room doesn't have anywhere close to the fire power you have, and I already fear for the drywall on the back wall. As you know it's crazy how much it can flex and move with the bass - I'm somewhat surprised that I don't have any cracking issues yet.


Good luck, I'll be following this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by carp  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23829296


^ Me too.


Luke, I'm not surprised at the recommendation for 3 layers. My room doesn't have anywhere close to the fire power you have, and I already fear for the drywall on the back wall. As you know it's crazy how much it can flex and move with the bass - I'm somewhat surprised that I don't have any cracking issues yet.


Good luck, I'll be following this thread.

Right now, the room is completely open in the back, so it's basically a 13x48 space. I'm wondering what the heck will happen to the walls when this room has a back wall and is more "sealed"...3 layers seems more reasonable the more I think about it!
 

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I did luck out in the fact that my front screen wall used to be wood paneling (with studs and concrete wall behind) and when I had my basement re-finished a few years ago they told me I could save a bit if I just had them put the drywall right on top of the wood paneling instead of tearing the paneling down. The wood paneling is very sturdy/rigid stuff so my front wall does soooo much better than my other 3 walls which is nice since my screen is a painted wall. The image vibrates like crazy on some scenes like Flight of the Phoenix but it's not the wall, it's the projector - that's a whole other issue that needs to be addressed eventually.


I'm jealous of you man, you get to start from scratch and make sure it's all done right!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Instead of doing three 5/8" layers of drywall on the inside of the theater room, I think I'll do two 5/8" layers on each side of the wall. That should be pretty sturdy. I may double up the 2x4's in that wall as well.
 

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Looks like your ceiling height is a little over 7ft... correct?... Instead of 9ft or so... 3 5/8 layers on the ceiling may be a little low if your build a riser...
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT_SoulMan  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23835589


Looks like your ceiling height is a little over 7ft... correct?... Instead of 9ft or so... 3 5/8 layers on the ceiling may be a little low if your build a riser...

The ceilings are just under 8ft...and then there's the duct work on the right side. I'm not sure what i'm going to do with the ceiling since I don't want to lose even more height.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction/0_100#post_23835603


The ceilings are just under 8ft...and then there's the duct work on the right side. I'm not sure what i'm going to do with the ceiling since I don't want to lose even more height.

If you are wanting to contain sound...there is no getting around losing a bit more height... What would be the point of beefing up your basement walls, but not the ceiling...


My theater is directly below my den. Family hates life when I have sessions without them while they are hanging out in the den.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23835689


If you are wanting to contain sound...there is no getting around loosing a bit more height... What would be the point of beefing up your basement walls, but not the ceiling...


My theater is directly below my den. Family hates life when I have sessions without them while they are hanging out in the den.

Containing the sound is only going to happen so much.


The chief offender for vibration is that supporting wall, and it just goes crazy from 25hz and below.


The ceiling isn't so bad in the ultra low stuff, but rather the 30-60hz stuff.


I'm also thinking about covering the duct work with dynamat. The sound just echoes through the whole thing.
 

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Have you considered staggered studs? May help if you have the room.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

Quote:
Originally Posted by cogeng182  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23838098


Have you considered staggered studs? May help if you have the room.

Staggered studs? Can you elaborate?
 

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Discussion Starter #19

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1494510/lukeamdmans-dedicated-theater-construction#post_23839787


That would definitely keep the supporting wall from vibrating, but that extra wall on the staggered studs would still go crazy.


I think it might be easier to just add another wall on the theater room side and make that the 3-layer wall. Keep about an inch of space between that wall and the supporting wall.


The ceiling is the tricky part since I don't wall to drywall it. All the water and gas lines are there, with a kitchen and laundry room directly above. The odds of water spills leaking down is high, so I want some sort of accessibility to that area.
 
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