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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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it's faster and more reliable to look at GPU-Z. the current release driver may just ignore this setting making it hard to test right now... i have 1 user confirming this issue and no one claimed they don't have this issue yet.
there is always a change something is terrible buggy on that system and d3d11 works like a hand break.
but d3d11 should be equal or faster.


yes. every feature should work with none.
Using the same madVR settings, he has a 2080 (regular) and I have a 1080TI so for madVR the two graphics cards should be about the same. I have a 4790k and he has an i9-7960X. When we both run D3D11, on the same file, we both get around 20ms render times with the same settings. When we both run NONE, I get the same 20ms render and he gets 11ms render.

So the thinking on the power state in the graphics card here is that since the graphics card can keep up with the load on lower pstate, it just keeps lower pstate to save power, right? So if I play back a 60fps file which requires 16.67ms render times, if it's just pstate issue, the graphics card should up the power automatically since it needs more horsepower to just keep up, right? Would that also be a good test to compare NONE vs D3D11 at 60fps?
 

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yes you can do that. but i personally would just take GPU-Z and look at the cores clocks with none and with d3d11.

there are other possibilities too like forcing RGB in lavfilter that should lower the rendertimes (and image quality) for none but not for d3d11 native. just to be clear that it is not that simple if other setting have been changed.
 

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I'm getting the same render times with D3D11 and None. I have a RTX2060 Super.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Yes, 60Hz RGB. And yes, 456.38 HDR triggered (not in full screen) but is washed out. My older driver 443.18 HDR triggered (not in full screen) but was not washed out.

Found out once I force full screen using 456.38, HDR is correct. So you're right, FSE would be a work around. Thanks!
Wonder why nvidia would change this behavior? Or is this something related to madVR handling of HDR on/off?
The latest Nvidia driver released on 9/28 fixes this issue, btw. We're good to go back to FS windowed :)
 
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This question is slightly OT. I use madVR for watching movies (and HDR conversion to Rec209) and love it. However, I feed the output of my NVidia 2080 to a Lumagen Pro from which I output HDMI to my projector and a separate HDMI to my audio processor (the latter doesn't accept 4k).

I'm wondering if it's possible to output a second HDMI from my video card for audio so that I could bypass the Lumagen. Anyone know if it's possible and if so tricky?
 

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This question is slightly OT. I use madVR for watching movies (and HDR conversion to Rec209) and love it. However, I feed the output of my NVidia 2080 to a Lumagen Pro from which I output HDMI to my projector and a separate HDMI to my audio processor (the latter doesn't accept 4k).

I'm wondering if it's possible to output a second HDMI from my video card for audio so that I could bypass the Lumagen. Anyone know if it's possible and if so tricky?
It's simple. Your media player should have the audio output device selectable, and you can select a different HDMI than the main video is going out.
 

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when i install latest driver on nvidia, i quit watching movies the screen look really strange, the screen look wash out with all different color. how do i fix it?
 

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You'll have to provide more details than that. Color space, bit depth, SDR/HDR, which player, etc.

Washed out sounds like the HDR bug that is currently present in the Nvidia drivers, where the display goes into HDR mode, but any player GUI or windowed mode will kick playback into 8-bit SDR.
 

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Are you by any chance watching in a window instead of full screen? That would explain the washed out colors with HDR playback. The latest drivers 456.38 and 456.55 fix the HDR issue, but only in a full screen mode. Over at doom9 someone also just reported an issue with the latest Nvidia drivers in combination with KODI (madVR - high quality video renderer (GPU assisted) - Page 3013 - Doom9's Forum).

Now that I think about it, if you are currently using 456.38, you might be experiencing this bug:

"I think I know why now. If I remember correctly, you output at 60Hz RGB, no? I just ran into a bug with that combo that triggers HDR on the display, but everything is completely washed out. Is that what you're seeing with this driver? If so, you can work around this also by using FSE mode instead of windowed FS."

This has since been fixed with the driver that came out yesterday, 456.55.
 

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I hope someone here can help me with my two problems.
The first problem appears to be a HDMI handshake issue and the second one is image stutter in fullscreen mode.

My current setup: HTPC (Intel 9900, 2080 Super) -> two HDMI cables to -> a) monitor (Asus 32") and b) Marantz SR5011 -> HDMI -> Sony VW285. MPC-BE 1.5.5.5433, LAV filters 0.74.1, 441.41 nvidia driver, madVR 113.

My screen configuration in Windows is set to duplicate, so when i turn on my pj i turn off my monitor and leave all cables in place except when watching HDR movies. Then i have to pull out the cable to my monitor for my pj to get into HDR mode.
This has worked out for the most part over the last two years using the 0.92.17 madVR build.

Occasionally i got handshake issues when watching hdr content in 23p mode (every few minutes a black screen for 5-7seconds) which required restarting the pc and pj to solve it.

Two weeks ago i installed build 113 to test out DTM and i get more handshake issues now when watching content in 23p mode (1080p and 4k content). The screen goes black every few minutes and after a few seconds the signal is back again. Since the audio isn't interrupted i'm thinking the issue is either with the Marantz or my pj. But how can this be when playing content in 60p is totally normal without any black screens?

Since i also got image stutter problems in 23p mode (only image and only in fullscreen mode, not audio) i stumbled across the hardware decoder setting in the LAV video config, it was set to DXVA2 (copyback) and i tested out mostly DXVA2 (native) and D3D11. D3D11 helped BUT as soon as i jump in the movie to forward or backward the stutter is back again.
The stuttering is also present when watching over my monitor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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is the asus screen capable of doing 23p ?

in general make sure vsync is forced on (nvidia control panel) and render frames in advance is set to 1-3. some user report they don't need to do that some report vsync is enough some have to do both and for even another batch it got fixed by newer nvidia driver.

leave DXVA2 copyback for now that makes testing easier.
 

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My Asus can do 23p but that was only for testing since i don't watch movies over my monitor, only pj.

I have tested the different settings you mentioned and they don't give me consistent results. It works for a day or two and then it stops working.

Is DVXA2 copyback a bad alternative for hardware decoding? Read this an another board i think.
I don't mind configuring everything again, so if D3D11 is better then i'll change to that.
 

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DXVA2 copyback support all feature D3D11 native not is not bad.

the first issue is windows 10 can't handle 2 different refreshrates this is better or worth depending on the windows 10 version none of them can do it 100% properly so it's a gamble it may work or not.

there is a work around for this d3d9 overlay. d3d11 rendering and FSE has to be disabled for this to work. if this doesn't work i need a screen shoot of the OSD (control +print -> paint control+v -> as the image -> upload it)(not doable with overlay rendering) while the problem is happening and not paused.
 

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Gorlag, out of curiosity, have you tried extend instead of duplicate at all? I know huhn doesn't like either, but I had no issues (that I can recall) back when I used a monitor and a TV at the same time. HDR on the TV worked fine as well.
 

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@mightyhuhn FSE = full screen exclusive? I will try again this evening and will post the osd if nothing helps.

@VBB i never really did cause although i don't watch movies on my monitor i often work using my pj and i need my desktop with my files etc. But might be worth a try just to know. Thanks for the input.
 

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Ok, good progress was made.
Somehow i got rid of the picture stuttering by changing the settings over and over again.
Kind of odd though cause the settings that work (D3D11 native, with frames presented in advance set to 2, CPU queue 16 and GPU 8) now didn't work last time i tried and i didn't change anything else (driver etc.). But i don't complain. :)

The picture loss didn't occur yesterday either but that's common with my setup that it doesn't show everytime.

Got another question: When using DTM through madVR, what is the correct setting for the pj? BT.709 or BT.2020?

Thanks again, you guys are great!
 

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Thanks for this, some quick points if I may please

  • Pot Player are scumbags and I encourage the consideration of users blacklisting them. They are famous for breaches of open source licence terms. Thieving scum.
  • Their builds have been bloated with adware, refer to their official forum for users trying to figure out how/why etcetc. When you have a scum company, expect scum tactics like stealth inserting adware into the "product", which, they dont actually own....
MPC-HC is pretty much a dead project

Its just MPC-BE, a group of russians, who are doing regular, meaningful, day in and day out work on their project now. Theres some patches with MPC-HC but its largely just life support stuff, MPC-HC is done.
 

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Got another question: When using DTM through madVR, what is the correct setting for the pj? BT.709 or BT.2020?

Thanks again, you guys are great!
If your projector is calibrated to BT709, use that. If it is calibrated to BT2020, use that. Mine is calibrated to BT2020 but when I selected DCI-P3 for 4K content and BT709 for regular BluRay content my color was slightly off (eg. clouds had a greenish tint).
 

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If your projector is calibrated to BT709, use that. If it is calibrated to BT2020, use that. Mine is calibrated to BT2020 but when I selected DCI-P3 for 4K content and BT709 for regular BluRay content my color was slightly off (eg. clouds had a greenish tint).
So that means i could use an JVC pj in low lamp mode with DTM HDR content.
As far as i know when using JVCs own HDR mode the pj always goes in high lamp mode and i want it as quiet as possible.
That would be awesome as i'm looking for a new pj at the moment. :)
 
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