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JVC NZ9 | JVC NX7 | ST130 G4 135" | AVM-60 | MC303 MC152 | 7.2.4: B&W 2x802D3, 4x805D3| 4x15 IB Subs
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you just run a software that is supported by the spyder like displaycal do a couple of clicks be done.
unlike a super cheap light meter this one will be kinda accurate because it is doing what it is made for.
Especially taking regular measurements for bulb age, it's far easier to use a lux meter. It's not difficult to convert at all. Getting the spyder out, hooking up the USB cable, mounting the spyder in some useful manner or getting a tripod out, installing displaycal running it and going through all the steps is far more work than popping out a hand held meter and getting an instant reading.
 

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you don't need anything special to measure a white point.
you can do it by hand no need for a tripot they are ridiculous fast in doing that you literally get an instant reading and a good one too.
he is using a HTPC here so installing displaycal is a one time thing and he can do it right now. BTW they work for quite a distant.
as long as his PC is in a decent post this should be utterly trivial.

so yes you have to put the USB cable in and use a calibration software to present a white image that's the extra work.
 

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Yes, a pure white image. Test with sensor touching the screen pointing at the lens. You read the lux.
Nits = LUX / 3.14 - does not account for screen gain which you can add back in if you know it.

Most 1.3 gain screens are actually 1.15 or so. For one of those you'd use Nits = (LUX / 3.14) * 1.15
Lumens can be calculated as well but requires screen area.
What do you get off your screen? Looking for sanity check of my NX7 with I think same screen (I have panamorph).
 
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