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Discussion Starter #1
Finally, my very own build thread



So, got the "X" on preorder (scared the crap out of the girlfriend when I showed it to her
, bought MDF, tools, more tools, a few band-aids, more MDF due to my inability to remember the blade width on some cuts
and got after it


The cabinet is 95% done, going to finish it with LINE-X this weekend as it's cheap for me and means I don't need to learn yet one more thing to get a sexy finish this time around.


Will post pics as soon as I can find my charger for the camera


Things learned:


You can NEVER have enough clamps!


Measure at least 3 times cut twice anyway


Routing beveled edges on a cabinet after six beers is a bad idea, I probably spent 5 hours with those nifty sanding sponges cleaning up that dumb move



Caulking inside that box can be an interesting display of flexability I did not know I had


Cheap routers suck!
, spend the money on a half decent one (and don't forget to remove ALL of the temp screws from the cabinet, router bits do not like that at all)


Big drivers are a pain to move around and WILL crush fingers when doing a solo upside down into the front of the cab to get the mounting holes marked


Uptight neighbors do not like a) woodworking @ midnight on weekdays b) seeing a sub driver larger than their children being delivered c) clouds of wood dust being blown out of a garage 'accidentally' onto freshly washed cars


Things left to do:


Finish filling and sanding screw holes


Buy amp, leaning towards EP2500 unless I can get a hookup on a slightly used XTi2000 from guy at work who is thinking about upgrading


Buy cables for 1124, mic, soundcard for MAC to use REW


ENJOY!!


All in all this has been some serious fun getting it built, next up tuning!!


A few questions:


I'l be making some 3/4" plywood blocks for the t-nuts to bite into. Wll std wood glue be good enough or should I use a two part epoxy to secure those to the back of the baffle?


How in the do I get the driver out of the cabinet to tweak stuffing etc. without breaking something like my fingers / toes etc?


Given this is ported would I be well served adding the eQ2 in the signal chain just for the SSF ?



O.K., done typing, time to enjoy some tasty 30 year old Glenfiddich freshly delivered from a co-worker...more updates to follow
 

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1. wood glue is great. Just make sure you clamp them together and it'll bond strong.


2. removing heavy drivers? I have a theory with using a wood ring and ratchet straps, however, it will marr up your finish. Right now my box isn't finished, but it's also just an SDX-15, so it's a little bit lighter. I just pinch fingers till I cut out a wooden ring.


3. A SSF would be nice for peace of mind. It allows you to be a bit more carefree and crank up the volume a bit more.
 

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hurricane nuts are your friend, no extra blocks of wood needed




The rubber ring around the basket makes for a great handle on a recessed sub
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan /forum/post/14299597


hurricane nuts are your friend, no extra blocks of wood needed

He's was using Tnuts in the extra plywood since MDF is brittle and doesn't hold as well. No need to go out and buy hurricane nuts if he already has Tnuts
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/14299006


3. A SSF would be nice for peace of mind. It allows you to be a bit more carefree and crank up the volume a bit more.

I do not know what he would gain from an SSF in this design, this is the lowest of low tuned subs, I don't need one with most well designed drivers that are tuned to 16Hz, this is tuned to under 11hz and the box size prevents the modeled system from running out of xmax until about 8Hz. Furthermore, what little benefit the port is giving right now would partly be washed away with the SS filter.


I must say, this doesn't seem like the most practical of design choices, the port isn't doing much because it is tuned so low and the box is so small, the driver would benefit greatly from a box over twice this size with this low of a tuning. I am used to seeing ported designs gain around 10dB of output at fb over a sealed design, this one however only gains about 4dB, and through most of the audible passband it really isn't doing anything. I am not saying it won't work, thankfully the box size being so small is preventing the port from being overworked, however, this only means that isn't doing much. The Maelstrom should have no problem overdriving an 8" port in a good design, this is essentially a 6" port with more bends and far less laminar flow due to its slot nature, and I don't think chuffing will be a problem simply because the port isn't going to be contributing much.



FYI, I am still excited about this build and I hope you are very pleased with the results, it is allowing you to tune lower than even PR's would let you in a smaller box, and it doesn't cost as much, while still giving you some output advantage over a sealed alignment.
 

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Quote:
I'l be making some 3/4" plywood blocks for the t-nuts to bite into. Wll std wood glue be good enough or should I use a two part epoxy to secure those to the back of the baffle?

1/4 inch plywood is fine, 3/4 inch plywood will work as well. Wood glue is all you need to mount the blocks to the MDF. After the T-nuts are installed I also apply a bead of hot glue around the circumference of the T-nut. I'm on my 9th sub and have never had a problem.
 

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You're probably right. I've not modeled it, nor do I even know the net volume of that box, but with that low of a tuning, I think the only problem he'd run into is with sinewave testing.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by armystud0911 /forum/post/14299858


I do not know what he would gain from an SSF in this design, this is the lowest of low tuned subs, I don't need one with most well designed drivers that are tuned to 16Hz, this is tuned to under 11hz and the box size prevents the modeled system from running out of xmax until about 8Hz. Furthermore, what little benefit the port is giving right now would partly be washed away with the SS filter.


I must say, this doesn't seem like the most practical of design choices, the port isn't doing much because it is tuned so low and the box is so small, the driver would benefit greatly from a box over twice this size with this low of a tuning. I am used to seeing ported designs gain around 10dB of output at fb over a sealed design, this one however only gains about 4dB, and through most of the audible passband it really isn't doing anything. I am not saying it won't work, thankfully the box size being so small is preventing the port from being overworked, however, this only means that isn't doing much. The Maelstrom should have no problem overdriving an 8" port in a good design, this is essentially a 6" port with more bends and far less laminar flow due to its slot nature, and I don't think chuffing will be a problem simply because the port isn't going to be contributing much.



FYI, I am still excited about this build and I hope you are very pleased with the results, it is allowing you to tune lower than even PR's would let you in a smaller box, and it doesn't cost as much, while still giving you some output advantage over a sealed alignment.

Funny, I was wondering the same thing last night but didn't want to say anything as I figured there must be something I was missing. With a box size this small, the benefits of a 10Hz tune over simply sealed seem to be pretty minimal. There are some extra costs though in time/effort and more materials.


I'm not trying to question the design (I'm new to this forum and still have a LOT to learn) and have much respect for Neo Dan but I'm curious what the main advantage of this type of enclosure is as compared to a sealed sub of the same volume?
 

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The answer is simple:

In the form factor I have chosen this is what I think gives me the best performance.


I do believe it is alot of work to for just 4dB, but it's worth it.



IIRC the uniformity of laminar "flow" degrades as your opening has a more open cross section, it is easier to generate turbulence within a round port as the size goes up. I believe we modulate the mass of air in a port more than flow air through it.
 

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FWIW since I ended up using this enclosure on it's side I would consider building another version 24" x 24" x 36" and opening up the ports to 3- 2" x 7" potentially taking volume up to ~7'³ and a very slight raise in tuning. Probably end up around +5.5-6dB over sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, not finished due to wok getting crazy. I'm off to the UK then Hong Kong for 6 weeks so this has to wait till I get back



Upside is extra bonus cash for more speaker stuff or maybe a new Blu player


But I did get LCR that have been in the works for 18 mo. finished and they sound great! They are rhe Dayton RS TMWW / WMTW from htguide



Replaced the AVR box with stand (now finished black to match everything else)




And have the "silly-ass huge box"
as everyone who has seen it calls it to a reasonable stage of completion, need to add hurricane nuts, seal a few seams and get it in the house for testing before finish




And, no, you can NEVER have enough clamps





At least I can read threads here while traveling, if only they would get cheak internet ON planes ....
 

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That's quite the collection of clamps you have there... I'm starting to worry about having only 2. Might need to buy more. :\\


Those LCR's look very nice, would you be able to post the link to those for me?
 

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Those mains turned out nice. Are you going to put the same finish on the sub? Have fun in HK man! I'm headed there myself this Friday for 9days.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yup, same finish on the sides, front and back, thinking of putting a recessed granite top on it for even more mass



Jet lag sucks!


J
 

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notenoughcash,


Well at least we can call you... justenoughclamps



And good work on the cabinet.
 
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