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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Timing of forum down was sure a pain for me this week. 2 days before, my fan started growling loudly, and barely spinning in spite of the heat that needed ejection (it sits on top of a LG tuner/recorder that makes more than its share of heat). Just to be sure it wasn't a fluke, I hit the fan with compressed air, but it didn't help. I decided to see if it would stop on its own like PC coolers sometimes do, and just let it make noise for a while before going to bed. On the next two startups, nothing changed. On the third, after some sleep and off time, the noise was gone, and it was spinning normally. Nevertheless I came here to see what I could find, but got sidetracked before I really got into it, and sort of forgot about it, until the next day. Then the noise came back, so I came back to the still open page here, but nothing worked, no 404, but no browser response to clicking the search button or any other link either.


Consequently I dug inside to see what I could figure out without benefit of others' experiences here. What a pain. The fan connector is tiny, unlike those on any PC fans around here the same 50mm size. Worse, the connector is buried under the daughterboard with all those flimsy fragile ribbon cables connected to it, and I couldn't figure out how to release all of them that I wanted to to lift up the board enough to get at the fan connector with more than one finger.


While I had the board up, it was very apparent that the disk drive cable that connects on the daughterboards adjacent middle was somewhat mangled from when the machine went in for motherboard replacement under warranty last year. It had me worried about giving it just one too many touches and destroying machine function.


I started on the fan by removing it, then hitting with full force from my air compressor in both directions, hoping the stress would clear some detritus from the innards to make the noise go away and restore normal operation. I put it together and plugged it in before putting the cover on. Sounded fine, so I turned on the power, and almost immediately the noise and near total lack of spin was back.


Of the 6 50mm fans I found here, only 2 were 2-wire like the 2160's, and one of those was actually 52 mm so would not fit. The only suitable fan turned out to be the dirtiest, which means probably well used. Nevertheless, I clipped its plug off, clipped the plug off the old 2160 fan, soldered the wires together, and got it installed. I put the board back, plugged it in, and the fan turned on. I turned the machine on, and again the fan worked. So I put the cover on, put it back in its place, connected all the wires, set the clock, reset the 18 timers, assumed everything was hunky dory, and went to bed. When I got up in the AM and checked on it, I could see something wrong, but initially it was not apparent what. Turns out it should have been recording while I was checking, but it wasn't. I went into the timers and could see the timer set for current, yet it wasn't red and the counter was not moving. I tried playing yesterday's HD recording, and that worked. Then I tried cycling the power, but it ignored the remote's power button, so I tried the panel's power button. It ignored that too, so I pulled the plug. After plugging it back in, nothing had improved. I tried a short timer recording just to test, but nothing.


So I took it back out, took the cover off again (note that each such cover operation is highly annoying to me, because WalMart's warranty service had stripped out half the cover screw holes) to inspect the previous night's work. I looked for loose or forgotten connections, but found none, so pulled the daugherboard back up to look underneath, where I noticed that worrisome cable looked worse than I remembered. While the board was back up, I finally noticed an unconnected 4-wide ribbon laying on the mainboard, connected behind the HD, unconnected on the other end.


So I put it back together again, with all cables connected this time, completing the stripping of the screw hole for the HDMI plug in the process, but inspecting my own work more thoroughly, with the result that everything I know how to do with it works normally now, including the used fan.


Now the question becomes, am I the first among the many reporting here to have such serious fan trouble? Should I consider replacing my replacement fan soon? Whether soon or otherwise, should I opt to buy from Magnavox service, or go for a generic that's clearly labeled ball bearing? Or maybe one that's not labeled ball bearing?


The old, in use about 28 months including time in for warranty repair, is marked with model number RDL5012S1, DC 12v, 0.06A, brushless, with red and black wires, made by Xinrulian in China. It's 50mm X 50mm X 12mm. Apparently its speed is controlled via voltage, as it has only the two wires.
 

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My 515 fan started making noise a few days after I put it on top of a hot running AV receiver. I guess excessive heat can kill the fan. I pulled the fan guard and turned the power on while holding the fan in my hand. The fan vibrates but it still spins freely. I've considered replacing the fan but I haven't looked for a replacement part yet.


I found this reference that should help in finding a suitable replacement:
http://www.x-fan.com/pdf/dc2010%20pdf/13-DC5012.pdf


It appears to be the same fan as a Toshiba 79103075 .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, very useful info. Unfortunately, neither link indicates whether a connector is included, or what type. I suspect nothing will be available with such a connector except from Funai.


The original is a lower RPM (quiet) as indicated by the L in the model number, and sleeve type as indicated by the S in the part number. The Toshiba part at that link is rather pricey compared to PC cooling fans that size from places I've done business with, but not so out of line with what I've found so far looking today.

http://*******.com/3blg2bd might be worth trying just because such a good price delivered, even though no real specs offered.

http://www.buyextras.com/bev50balbear.html is 10mm thick ball bearing medium speed (4200 vs 3000 RPM).


Trying to shop for one on Google it seems 12mm thick is far less common than 10mm & 15mm, and low speed/3000 RPM or less even less common.


I tried calling Funai service, but too late today, so I'll have to wait until monday to get its price. Thinking about it, a low speed fan probably makes bearing type a bit less important. It could be mine was just marginally in spec to start with, or not even. To save the grief with the connector it might be easier just to go with the OEM replacement if the delivered price is tolerable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jenn Daniels responded to my initial email inquiry to [email protected] on Aug 16. We exchanged a number of emails before my order shipped Aug 24 after she called me for my credit card number. She attached a PDF service manual in her initial response. In another were some fan installation instructions explaining connector access should be via back panel removal rather than via DVD/HDD Main CBA removal. Fedex delivered Aug 27. Part number is MMEZR12XNR05. Price each was a surprisingly reasonable $4.35. 3-4 times that would not have surprised me. Shipping for 3 of them was $6.00, but I think that shipping rate is Funai's minimum. Each fan weighs about 1 oz.


One reason for all the email to & fro was I had wanted to also buy a DVD drive to controller board ribbon cable. This particular 2160A had been in for repair under WalMart's extended warranty program, and that cable looked like it was in danger of further touching rendering it useless. It turns out that part is not available separately, ostensibly due to being a part of the DVD drive itself.


I've yet to open it up to replace the puter cooler fan I put in when the original quit. The short length of the fan wire leads me to expect back panel removal to install the new OEM fan won't be any easier than CBA removal, maybe even trickier.
 

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Thanks for the valuable info!


I copied your post and added it as a new subject, "Replacing the Fan," in the Hardware Replacement and Upgrade help file with appropriate attribution and linkage to you.


* * * * * * *

On installation, when I was working on fan noise complaints, I could remove the two screws on the fan and "fold" it to the left, exposing the thin wires coming out of the case. I wonder if you could remove (desolder?) those wires from the old fan and "connect" (solder?) them to the new fan while in that "folded" position.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
By cutting the wires off the old fan all the way up at its motor, I suppose there might be enough length for someone with ample dexterity to manage to prepare to solder. I don't plan on a change out any time soon. It's a sleeping dog now, cooling fine with the puter fan. I do need to make a temporary HD swap to copy some programs to DVD at some point probably before too long, and I'll probably investigate your proposition and Funai's back panel removal suggestion then or when I undo the HD change. The new HD is twice the size of the old, with lots of freespace. The old has near zero. The eSATA cable adapter I already got in June, but I won't be modifying for external HDs until the latest of when the extended warranty runs out or when I get a nibbler or when I figure out where to fit an external drive case.
 

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I think you could extend the wires, by soldering or even using the smallest plastic wire nuts, and push them back inside before reattaching the fan to the case? I don't think there's anything inside at the fan hole location that would prevent that?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/20876337




Thanks for the valuable info!


I copied your post and added it as a new subject, "Replacing the Fan," in the Hardware Replacement and Upgrade help file with appropriate attribution and linkage to you.

As always awesome job Wajo, and thx to mrmazda too. BTW could you put the link to the service manual under the Hardware Replacement & Upgrade tittle or something like Jump to... SERVICE MANUAL?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by profhat /forum/post/20877045


...could you put the link to the service manual under the Hardware Replacement & Upgrade tittle or something like Jump to... SERVICE MANUAL?
They have NDA language in them, so they're no longer on my web site. Wajo put alternative instructions in a sticky for those who would like to get them.
 
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