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Did you add tiny dabs of 70% isopropyl alcohol or tape head cleaner fluid to the tiny brushes? I did.
No, that doesn't sound like a good idea to me. Maybe it's perfectly safe to have alcohol fly off the disc inside the machine as soon as you load it but that's not something I'd be willing to try.
 

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I have one of the first ones made Philips branded 3575. When I turn it off, it forgets my channels, but only my channels. I have to rescan each time. This is very time consuming and annoying and defeats the purpose of having timed recordings since it records a blank. Does this thing have some sort of battery, or something? I don't see one. Got any suggested fixes, because I don't see any.
 

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I have one of the first ones made Philips branded 3575. When I turn it off, it forgets my channels, but only my channels. I have to rescan each time. This is very time consuming and annoying and defeats the purpose of having timed recordings since it records a blank. Does this thing have some sort of battery, or something? I don't see one. Got any suggested fixes, because I don't see any.
I still have one of those! I have it plugged into a backup battery, but if we lose power for longer than the backup can cover, it loses my timed recording settings and the clock setting. Scanned channels (and everything recorded) are always still intact. So I can't really help you, except to say my experience is different from yours - even without power, it remembers the channels but forgets the timers.
 

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I still have one of those! I have it plugged into a backup battery, but if we lose power for longer than the backup can cover, it loses my timed recording settings and the clock setting. Scanned channels (and everything recorded) are always still intact. So I can't really help you, except to say my experience is different from yours - even without power, it remembers the channels but forgets the timers.
Yeah, I think the only useful advice I have heard here is to try getting rid of the dust. I already tried that, and it only works less bad. But that was before I read about someone else doing it here. I should try again more aggressively to see if that works better. Possibly remove the MB completely and carefully wash and dry.
 

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I have a Magnavox 535 which has been working well until last night. I checked to see how much space I had on it, and was dismayed to see that the entire HDD had been wiped out. Everything I had recorded was gone. How does such a thing happen? Husband had been fiddling with our Verizon box and TV (we have a mysterious problem with the volume on the TV), and may have inadvertently done something to the Maggie that cleaned out the entire HDD.

Or is it possible that the HDD just malfunctioned on its own? It was definitely too full (my bad).

I'm guessing that retrieving my missing programs is impossible.

I was able to record a couple of new programs on the Maggie, but should I trust it? Or should I try to find someone who can replace the HDD? Or try to find a replacement Maggie (which I know will be difficult and/or expensive and/or impossible.

FWIW, I have no expertise at all in fixing machinery, and the husband has very little.

Thanks for any insight or suggestions.
 

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Well, if your husband was only working with the Verizon box and the TV, it's unlikely that his work with either of those affected the recorder. Your thought about the hard drive being too full is really on target, though, as is your thought about retrieving any programs that were lost. If your hard drive fails, you can find instructions for changing it out in this (massive) thread. :) But what I would do is just continue to use it for the next week or so and see how it does. I'm guessing the drive was too full and the recorder reset itself. Perhaps someone else here can give some more insight.

As for trusting it, I will not trust ANY hard drive recorder as every single hard drive will eventually fail...and I don't consider them permanent storage.

Hope this helps!
 

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Thanks for your response.

The hubster is a button pusher. He doesn't do research first <sigh>. He was fiddling with all of our remotes (TV, Verizon box, Maggie), trying to solve the volume problem without knowing which device had the funky volume problem. (In the meantime, I was reading Samsung TV forums online, where I learned that the volume issue is widely documented.)

But I think you're right. I had too many recordings on the Maggie and it threw up. I won't make that mistake again!

And yes, most all hard drives fail at some point. My motto is that it's not IF it will fail, but WHEN it will fail. I've had my fair share of computer HDD failures, but after the first one, I learned the virtue of doing backups.
 

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Mallo, a full HD has never caused a problem with any maggie I have, so far. It DOES blank the timers if it is full and a scheduled recording cannot be done. One thing that will clear the HD is to format it as 'new'.
Back at the beginning of this thread, there are instructions on many functions, much better explained than the manual does. There are a few 'magic' remote sequences that CAN also blast a disk to completely blank. The remote keypresses must be done quickly for them to be recognized.
tom
 

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Mallo, a full HD has never caused a problem with any maggie I have, so far. It DOES blank the timers if it is full and a scheduled recording cannot be done. One thing that will clear the HD is to format it as 'new'.
Back at the beginning of this thread, there are instructions on many functions, much better explained than the manual does. There are a few 'magic' remote sequences that CAN also blast a disk to completely blank. The remote keypresses must be done quickly for them to be recognized.
tom
Hmmm, I thought I replied to this last week. Anyway, I skimmed through the info at the beginning of the thread and didn't find anything about how to magically make all of my recordings disappear. Not that I want it to happen again.
 

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SKIP functions...
HW Replacement/Upgrade... Skip 079 for HDD/DVD Check, Initialize & Power-on Stat... Dock-and-Play... Ordering OEM Parts... Solid State Drives (SSD) - UPDATE: 2 Freaking Petabytes, 4 pages.
 

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I have a H2160MW9 that powers up for about ten seconds, then shuts down. During the brief 10-second power-up period, the hard drive spins up but the fluorescent display only shows "------- " and the cooling fan does not run. Pushing the power button on the front of the unit has no effect. The power supply output voltages are normal during the brief power up period, then drop to half their usual voltage when it powers down.

I have checked all the power supply components and changed two capacitors that were a little high on ESR, but that did not make a difference. I checked the fan and it is okay. It’s just not getting any voltage. I suspect that the power supply is being shut down via the LOW-POWER, SAFETY2 or PWR-SW2 circuits from other boards, but the service manual lacks sufficient documentation of power-on and shutdown voltages for me to know what is normal.

Has anyone seen these symptoms and found a solution?
 

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I have a H2160MW9 that powers up for about ten seconds, then shuts down. During the brief 10-second power-up period, the hard drive spins up but the fluorescent display only shows "------- " and the cooling fan does not run. Pushing the power button on the front of the unit has no effect. The power supply output voltages are normal during the brief power up period, then drop to half their usual voltage when it powers down.

I have checked all the power supply components and changed two capacitors that were a little high on ESR, but that did not make a difference. I checked the fan and it is okay. It’s just not getting any voltage. I suspect that the power supply is being shut down via the LOW-POWER, SAFETY2 or PWR-SW2 circuits from other boards, but the service manual lacks sufficient documentation of power-on and shutdown voltages for me to know what is normal.

Has anyone seen these symptoms and found a solution?
I have not seen your exact problem.

I have seen an unstable power supply in a DVD recorder that had variable voltages after power up.

After seeing a youtube video on 12voltvids mentioning the solder joints around the transformer from the hot to cold side could "break" or destabilize the lead-free solder.. he re-flowed the solder with a little non-lead free he had on hand and that brought it back to life. I think this is because the transformer by design physically vibrates the laminated core its coils are wrapped around.. there is no stopping that, but it doesn't happen for years.. so its fairly well accepted in the designs.

I re-flowed the solder around the transformer connections on the DVD recorder I was working on and the voltages came back up and stabilized.

I do not know the exact circuitry in the model your working on but many of these have a feedback opto-isolator, which when it fails.. the feedback signal is interpreted to reduce output voltage by changing the frequency of the hot side of the transformer, until the cold side transformer output causes the opto-isolator to produce the correct signal.. if the opto-isolator has gone bad.. the hot side will keep reducing the voltage until the unit powers down and shuts off. This is a a fail safe design, so that too much voltage and too much current doesn't flow through to the cold side.

When the capacitors on the cold side go bad and aren't fixed in time they can burn out the opto-isolator. You should be able to check the opto-isolator with a continuity or diode tester.. but you might have to remove it to be sure.. or test with a skeptical eye to the results.

Other components can fail, like resistors and transistors.. the longer they run with failing Caps.. the more damage they can cause.

Be very Very cautious around the hot side capacitors. The 200 Volt or 400 Volt filter cap can hold a charge for many days.. and it can pierce your skin by arc'ing. It hurts a lot and its dangerous. Good luck.
 

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After seeing a youtube video on 12voltvids mentioning the solder joints around the transformer from the hot to cold side could "break" or destabilize the lead-free solder.

You should be able to check the opto-isolator with a continuity or diode tester.. but you might have to remove it to be sure.. or test with a skeptical eye to the results.

Other components can fail, like resistors and transistors.. the longer they run with failing Caps.. the more damage they can cause.

Be very Very cautious around the hot side capacitors. The 200 Volt or 400 Volt filter cap can hold a charge for many days.. and it can pierce your skin by arc'ing. It hurts a lot and its dangerous. Good luck.
Thanks for the comments. Here are some replies:

The voltages are steady during the brief power-on period. They also are steady if I run the power supply with its load ribbon cable disconnected, although the voltages run at half-voltage under that condition. Even though, I did visually check all the solder connections with a magnifying loupe to look for the telltale crack of a loose joint. I also checked the continuity of each transformer connection. All were okay.

The voltage across the optoisolator diode remained steady at 1V, but I changed the isolator and its related voltage regulator anyway just to be sure. That didn't make a difference.

I have checked every capacitor, resistor and semiconductor on the power supply board and all tested okay to the extent you can make conclusive tests in-circuit. I changed two voltage regulator transistors and the hot-side MOSFET just to be sure, but that didn't make a difference.

I know about the hot side capacitors, but it is always good to mention them because many people are not aware of the danger.

So, my problem may not be the actual power supply but the loads and/or inputs that come from the main A/V (Audio/Video and System Control) board. It has logic circuitry that provides feedback and control for the power supply. Because of limited voltage documentation in the service manual, I can't be sure if some of the power supply outputs and inputs are correct. There are outputs called F1, F2 and -FL but no mention of the normal voltages that should be present. These outputs go to the fluorescent display, and it isn't working fully, so I will check related components. Also, the power supply input called SAFETY2 stays at 0, but I don't know what it should be. All I know is that the fan is connected to SAFETY2 and that explains why it isn't running. But, I don't know why SAFETY2 is at 0. The A/V board has hundreds of components, including LSI chips, so component-level troubleshooting would be difficult. There are no visual failures, like a burnt resistor or bulging capacitor. Normally, a repair center would have known boards to swap to isolate the problem, as an owner I only have this one unit.

So, at this point my best hope would be hearing from someone that had the same problem with a H2160MW9 and found the solution. That is a long-shot, I know. In the meantime, I will check the F1, F2, -FL and SAFETY2 related components.
 
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