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PLAY AND SEARCH WITH INFO/DISPLAY MENU

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The INFO/DISPLAY Button
Playback Controls in the INFO/DISPLAY Menu
Play and Search from the Menu
Audio
Subtitle
Angle
Repeat
Marker
Noise Reduction (NR)
Zoom
Surround
Changing Rec Mode and Checking HDD/DVD Capacities
Using "Audio Language" and "Subtitles" To Learn a New Language
USING YOUR DVDR AS A DVD PLAYER

 
DVD tray won't open on new or hard-reset unit until it's set up and channels scanned. More info.


All Display menus will be recorded if activated in the player in a 2-unit copy setup.
The INFO/DISPLAY Button


The INFO button on the 3575/3576 remote and the DISPLAY button on the 2160/513/515/53x/557 remote bring up several screens in succession by repeated pressing of the button, and those screens are "context-sensitive," i.e., they change to suit the tuner selected and/or the media loaded or being played.


For video on an analog channel, the first screen provides information on channel, video resolution, audio type, drive currently active, and HDD time remaining at selected rec modes.


For video on a digital (DTV) channel, the first screen shows any avail. TVG/show info and signal-strength meter, AND THIS SCREEN WILL BE RECORDED: (1) if recording at that time, or (2) whenever the 2160/513/515/53x/557 is on (as part of its background autorecording). The 2nd screen on a digital channel shows the same info as on an analog channel. On either an analog or digital channel, and with an HDMI cable connected to the TV, the last screen always shows HDMI info regardless of whether the TV's HDMI input is selected or not.


With the 2160/513/515/53x/557, you can get to the Display info/menu WITHOUT recording the 1st screen on a digital channel by using one of the Autostart Recording (AR) buttons: PAUSE, REW OR REPLAY.


One of the screens has 9 playback control icons for viewing and setting the video playback options described next.

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Playback Controls in the INFO/DISPLAY Menu


This DVDR has a very useful video/audio DVD/CD playback feature under the INFO/DISPLAY button that really should be called Playback Central... maybe "Playground" Central cuz, once you know your way around, you'll be like a kid again, trying to find new ways to get into trouble!



Most everything you might need or want to do with DVD/CD playback can be commanded and controlled in this on-screen display. Pressing the INFO/DISPLAY button while playing brings up the INFO/DISPLAY menu and control icons at the top of the TV screen.


This is a graphic that shows what appears along the top of the playback pic after pressing the INFO/DISPLAY button:




There are 9 control icons in the 2nd row. From left to right, they are:




You can arrow right from the auto-selected Search (?) icon to select each of the other 8 controls. Just arrowing right activates a control within 1 sec, or you can press OK after arrowing right to activate the control immediately (indicated below by "Activate"). If no options pop up, there are no options under that icon/feature. Use arrow up/dn and OK to select an option. Exit anytime with the INFO/DISPLAY button.

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Play and Search from the Menu


The INFO/DISPLAY menu allows you to play titles and chapters by number and search by time.


The menu opens up on the Search icon (? in mag. glass)... it's already highlighted. Click OK on this icon and it moves you up to the top row, where there are three video sections: Title (T), Chapter (C), and Time (digital clock).


For CDs, the sections change to Track (T) and Time; Track/Time will not work if you select Random Play from the CD Playback menu under Setup, but will if using Program Play or normal play (just pressing Play).


Here's an annotated Search Menu showing the three video sections:



To play a specific Title, arrow up/dn on the 1st "T" number or enter numbers directly, then press OK to play that Title from its beginning. That starts play at 0:00:00 if not played before in that session, Resumes if playing then using the "T" number and keeps track during that session.

Note: If you have lots of titles on a HDD or have an external "farm" of HDDs with title content NUMBERED, this is the ideal way to play a specific title w/o having to search pages of index pics... just enter the Title NUMBER in the 1st "T" number position.

 

To play a specific Chapter, arrow right to the C section, arrow up/dn on the 1st "C" number or enter numbers directly, then press OK to play that Chapter from its beginning (always starts play at 1st frame of Chapter).

To play a currently playing title by specific time other than its beginning, arrow right to 1st set of hr:min:sec time digits, arrow up/dn or enter time directly, then press OK to go to that time immediately. Total time of that title is shown in a 2nd set of hr:min:sec numbers. For a title not yet playing, first select that title number (and chapter if desired), then arrow right to set a specific time in that title. You can also search CDs the same way with this function.

"Intelligent" Search Feature: When searching for start of next show in a multi-show title (like 2nd of 3 shows), each arrow-up on the 1st clock segment advances to the next whole hour exactly, even tho you might currently be at an odd time. For example, if you're currently on 1:18:35, arrow up on 1st number segment to hour 2 and it goes to 2:00:00, not 2:18:35. It knows you want to start at the beginning of the hour for a new show! Just press OK to go there. Of course, you could also enter minutes in each clock segment, if desired.

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Audio - Activates the speaker control for selecting Audio options. Start playback, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to Audio (speaker) icon, press OK, select option.

 

This displays and checks/highlights the type of audio being played and gives you any other available options you can select with arrow up/dn and OK button (languages, DD types, etc.)


You can also use this feature to turn subtitles on in your native language (English, French or Spanish), then change the "Audio Language" in the Playback menu to a different language as a way to learn or practice the selected Audio Language, as described below.


Audio on HDD and home-made DVD titles will always be DD2.0, which is the compression std use for recording anything coming in thru the tuner or line inputs. However, DD5.1 audio on commercials DVDs will play as DD5.1 via the digital output(s) on this DVDR (and HDMI?).


There is also a menu item for audio: Playback > Disc Audio which has options for Dynamic Range Control, PCM and Dolby Digital... this is ONLY for audio played back on a DVD.

More info on digital audio here.

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Subtitle - Activates the Subtitle control for selecting subtitle language(s), if available. For DVDs only. Start playback, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to Subtitle icon, press OK, select option

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Angle - Activates the Angle control for selecting camera angle(s), if available. For DVDs only. Start playback, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to Angle icon, press OK, select option

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Repeat - Activates the Repeat control for selecting a type of repeat play on HDD, DVDs and CDs. Start playback of a title/track, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to Repeat icon (circular arrow), press OK, menu starts on "Repeat Off." To repeat play a Title, Chapter/track, or A-B section:.

 

Video Title/CD Track: Play title/track. Arrow down to Title/Track option, press OK. That entire title/track repeat-plays until you press Stop.

 

Video Chapter: Play video Chapter. Arrow down to Chapter option, press OK. That entire Chapter repeat-plays until you press Stop.

 

CD All: Play CD. Arrow down to All option, press OK. The entire CD repeat-plays until you press Stop.

 

A-B Section: Play title/track. Arrow down to A-B icon, press OK. Box in upper right shows "A" highlighted, waiting for you to mark that "A" point. Play or advance to near desired start point. At desired start point, press OK, which switches highlighted "A" in box at top right to "B." At desired end point, press OK again. That marks your desired section (from A to B), and it will repeat-play until you press Stop.

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Marker


Activates the Marker control for selecting up to six "bookmarks" at playback points you might want to return to. Use this icon to go directly and instantly to one of your marked spots. Markers can be in one title/track or in multiple titles/tracks.

The Marker Menu



The procedure for setting markers is:
  1. Start a title playing and PAUSE at the point you want a marker if you want an exact spot... if a more general spot, you can ALSO set markers "on-the-fly" as something is playing.
  2. Press the INFO/DISPLAY button.
  3. Arrow right to the 6th icon (down-arrow symbol) and press OK.
  4. In 1st Marker position, press OK button. This sets a Marker there.
  5. Play or FF to next position, arrow down to 2nd position and place a marker there in same way, etc.

 

To use markers to watch again, start playback, press the INFO/DISPLAY button, arrow right to marker icon and wait 1-sec for menu to open (or press OK for immediate access), then OK on any of your set markers.


To set markers on 1st frames for a sequential-play of titles:
  1. Press the INFO/DISPLAY button.
  2. Arrow right to the 6th icon (down-arrow symbol) and press OK.
  3. Play 1st title and Pause immediately.
  4. Press OK button. This sets a Marker at beginning of title.
  5. Press TITLE button to get Title menu again.
  6. Play 2nd desired title, PAUSE, set marker, press TITLE button, etc. until you've marked the first six titles at their very beginning. Pretty easy, really.

 

In a sequential-play, you can open the INFO/DISPLAY menu and press OK on the Markers in order, top to bottom. Each title will start playing from the marked position, which is the very beginning of the title. You could mix-n-match Markers with 1 in one title, 2 in another, 3 in another, as needed.


Markers PERSIST on the HDD until you delete them using the CLEAR button or delete the title, so you can turn the machine off and use them at a later time. You'd do another six titles by CLEARing the old Markers and placing new ones. Deleting or Dividing a title also deletes its marker(s).


Markers can also be placed in home-made or commercial DVDs, and those markers persist only while the disc remains in the tray and the DVDR remains on... they disappear once the disc tray is opened or the DVDR is shut off.


Some "special" uses for the Marker feature might be:
  • Political "junkies" could set up two or more politicians speaking on an issue or answering a question. Set a marker for each where they start to speak on the same subject, then play each one quickly in sequential order... no searching, etc.
  • A teacher could record educational items and mark them for quick access in classroom instruction.
  • Teacher-instructors could produce videos of teachers' classroom work, marking special spots, as self-help aids to improve their teching methods.
  • A law school professor could show different courtroom action by various lawyers for do's and don'ts w/o queuing up tapes or searching thru titles... delays that might "kill" the immediate visual comparison.
  • A coach could show players some game action for review, errors made, etc.
  • Any home user could play Titles, like favorite Soap episodes, IN RECORDED ORDER by marking 1st frames so they can follow the developing story line. Might be esp. useful if they've got LOTS of titles spread about in multiple pages of the Title menu. One 3575 user went on a 3.5 week trip and had 35 HDD titles on 6 pages to sort thru. There's no automatic "sequential play" mode for videos on HDD (just CDs and VCDs), but even if there were, you'd still have to go find the Titles, "mark" them for auto-play, and set their specific sequence. The Marker method provides one way to accomplish the same thing, at least for 6 titles in sequence.

 

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Noise Reduction (NR) - Activates the NR control for selecting three video noise-reduction levels: Off, Type 1 for SLP or other long rec mode with video noise, or Type 2 for even stronger NR. Start playback, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to NR icon, press OK, select option

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Zoom - Activates the video Zoom control for selecting four zoom levels: 1.0x, 1.2x, 1.5x, 2.0x. Right arrow to the +/- icon, wait 1 sec or press OK to bring up the zoom options. Arrow down to a zoom option and press OK. That displays an open box over the pic that defines approx. what area of the pic it will zoom to. You can move the box with the arrow keys, if desired. Press OK again and the pic zooms in.


The 1.2X zoom box might display with a small portion of the top and bottom bars not deleted, but when you press OK to accept that zoom, the zoomed pic will not retain any of the bars.


To go back to normal view, press the INFO/DISPLAY button again, which auto-selects 1.0X, so press OK again. Also, if you Stop playback and resume later, the pic will be back to normal view.


One notable feature of the Zoom function is that it maintains CC/subtitles in the same location on screen and in the same size text.


This is not true with many other devices, like TVs. One user lost the top bar of his INFO/DISPLAY menu and it turned out someone had set his TV to ZOOM, which also zoomed the menu off-screen on top!

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Surround - Activates the Surround control for selecting three surround options: Off, Type 1 (natural), Type 2 (emphasized). Start playback, press DISPLAY button, arrow right to Surround icon, press OK, select option

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Changing Rec Mode and Checking HDD/DVD Capacities


Since this DVDR's REC MODE button is set up to CHANGE rec mode on first press, it's easy to accidentally CHANGE rec mode when all you wanted to do is CHECK the current setting... nothing worse than finding out, after a recording, that you had the wrong rec mode by accident. Here's where the INFO/DISPLAY button comes in handy.

While on the HDD and a live TV channel (nothing playing), press the INFO/DISPLAY button 2X or 3X until you see the screen with the search and playback icons at the top. Look in the bottom-right corner of the screen (item "3" in screen shot below), which should show the rec-mode and HH:MM of time-remaining. Number of presses varies with the machine, channel (analog/digital), and drive selected.


Once on that screen, press the Rec Mode button to change rec modes and, at the same time, change the time-remaining on the selected drive. You can change to either drive while on this screen... an icon in the upper-right corner (item "7") shows which drive you're currently viewing. If DVD drive is selected, an unfinalized DVD must be loaded to see the default rec mode and the time remaining on that DVD.



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Using "Audio Language" and "Subtitles" To Learn a New Language


These DVDRs can be a great asset to students or others trying to learn a "foreign" language... commercial movies can be played back with audio in the foreign language and subtitles turned on in English! Works great cuz you can hear the foreign language and see the English subtitles!


Use the REPLAY button to repeat sections until you understand the linguistic connections.


To see a concurrent English translation of a disc's foreign language, turn Subtitles on in the INFO/DISPLAY menu while playing the disc... 3rd icon from left.


To hear the foreign language, set the "Audio Language" in the Playback menu to French, Spanish, or Other.


For "Other," go to pg. 119 of the 3575/76 manual, or pg 117/118/119 of 2160/2160A/513 manual, for a list of 132 Language Codes you can enter after selecting the "Other" option. Enter the code that corresponds to the language actually on the disc, press OK, and when you play that disc, the audio language will be the one you hear (if on the disc) while the subtitles will be in English.


If your disc doesn't have the "Other" language you selected, the audio defaults to that disc's "native" language.

Go back to List ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

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Dude, you might convince me to buy one of these yet!



What's the build quality like (i.e. fit and finish, reliability, etc.)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I was originally impressed with the build quality of my first unit, compared to other Philips' I've seen, and am still very happy with my three units...one for each network!



I think Philips put some extra effort into this unit to try and get things right, while keeping things "affordable" and simple enough for a wide user base. The jury is still out on longevity, as can be expected since they're only about 8 months old now.


Not sure how much money they're making, tho, selling for less than US$300, which is worth many less Yen and Yuan lately... now on a par with the Canadian dollar...



So far, it's been an excellent unit equal to or better than my Pio 640 in many respects. The digital tuner alone has opened my eyes to how good TV should look, even tho I'm on analog cable. For that alone, it's worth a try for anyone looking to "upgrade" to digital SDTV now.


Be forewarned, however, when an analog-only person sees his/her first digital TV pic, they might develop an irresistable craving for a satellite or digital cable upgrade!



Had to add an example... I just walked close by my 1080p LCD on an analog channel and could see every flaw and pixel in the pic (you can't get too close to a 1080p display...shows flaws you never knew were there!
).


Changed to a digital TNT-HD channel and the pic was beautiful, even tho I was only 2 feet away... and that channel is one of those downrezzed-and-converted-digitals I get thru my analog-only cable feed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·



 

Known Problems and Operating Idiosyncracies

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Reported problems:
P1. Possible digital channel loss of tuning in some 3575's in basic (analog) cable systems, esp. Comcast. 38% of 3575's, only a few early 3576's, NO 2160/513/515/53x/557.
P2. Possible editing freeze on 3575/3576 if you use Divide before Delete under certain conditions (like too-full HDD). NO 2160/513/515/53x/557.
P3. Possible dark pic with Computer-Based 768p TVs. NO 2160/513/515/53x/557.
P4. New 2160A for 2009 USED TO HAVE a problem with Disc Edit ops... now solved!

P5. 513/515 Freezing (Appearing "Dead") for no apparent reason.

The "Digital Cliff" Effect:
The "Digital Cliff" Effect and How It Can Affect Your Digital Channel Stability

Operating Idiosyncracies:
Op1. STOP button stops play AND record... big diff. between 3575/3576 and 2160/513/515/53x/557!
Op2. Heat and EMI can cause stuttering, freezing, false copy protection.
Op3. Format/Finalize Locked Out Before Timer Rec Program: Format RW=15 min., Finalize=1-hour
Op4. Shutdown procedure takes 15-20 sec, so don't cycle power too quickly... or too often.
Op5. Power sag or brief loss might require unplugging/replugging to reset "standby" circuit (or Soft Reset).
Op6. HDD Repair Utility might activate when needed.
Op7. Title can freeze but can be deleted with Setup > HDD Menu.
Op8. Disc menu of home-made DVDs will show an "Empty Title" but it can be deleted. Changed to "Empty Space" in 515/53x/557.
Op9. Fan mounting design can cause "harmonic" noise in case.
Op10. Some "odd" noises when DVDR starts up or searches for auto-clock time signal.

 
Quick Answers to Common Questions/Problems
  • Initial Setup - "Before You Start" page in manual is wrong for seeing "Initial Setup" menu.
  • Auto Clock - Time signals can cause problems. Try MANUAL using 11:57 Procedure or set to OFF.
  • DVD Tray - Won't open until you set unit up, scan channels & press DVD button.
  • Connect-1 - Unlike a VCR, nothing internal (menus, channels, titles, DVDs) goes thru the coax.
  • Connect-2 - Put DVDR 1st on cable/antenna coax (not sat) unless you order PPV/VOD thru a cable box.
  • Timers - Needs clock set first. For weekly/daily show, use DOWN arrow in date box of timer menu.
  • Widescreen - To record 16:9 WS programs, set Video > TV Aspect to "16:9 Wide."
  • Editing - Making Front- and End-Cuts (Scene Deletes) is undocumented.
  • Dubbing - Two methods for DVD>HDD. Finalized DVD requires Direct Dubbing.
  • Finalizing - NOT automatic. Use Disc Edit > Finalize, with at least 1-hour to next timer program.
  • Outputs - Composite Yellow and S-Video OUT on Mags won't work if Progressive scan is ON.
  • Inputs - Won't work if Video > Video Input is not set to type of cable used.
  • Dead Unit - Check batteries, try power button on unit, do Soft Reset, check for tuning interference.
  • Tuning Interference - Duplicate channels can cause tuning, timer & even power-on problems.
  • Top 12 Things Wrong, Misleading or Omitted in the Manual . The manual is wrong? YES!
 

Reported Problems

There have been three reported problems affecting some early 3575 users and, only a very few 3576 users, no 2160/513/515/53x/557 users, and one new problem with the 2160 "A" version release in Apr 2009, as described below.

P1. Possible Digital Channel Loss of Tuning in 3575's but only in Some "Basic" (Analog) Cable Systems, esp. Comcast

Note: See "Digital Cliff" description for one possible cause of digital channel loss.


About 38% of 3575s and only a couple of 3576s being used by people who subscribe to basic/extended (ANALOG) cable TV have lost digital channel tuning... TV goes "blue-screen." According to a Philips CSR, the problem is caused by "analog interference" and it's a hdwe problem, not FW.


Only one user subscribed to DIGITAL cable reported the same problem, but then one other thought HE had "digital" cable cuz he got some digital channels (it was basic analog cable), so who knows for sure that the other user really subscribed to his cableco's extra-cost digital package.

No one using an OTA antenna has this problem with digital channels, and no one with any service has reported a loss of tuning with analog channels.


I have two of the first units (April 2007) and one is rock solid in my basic analog cable system, but the other will lose digital channel tuning if I surf madly thru those channels trying to test its limits (50-60 round trips). Once it goes blue-screen, I can get the channels back by HOLDING the DTV/TV button for 2-sec or so till the tuner switches to analog and back again... the toggle action is all that's needed, don't have to actually wait for it to tune an analog channel. It works perfectly if I use it like a NORMAL person... it has always tuned digital channels fine on cold-startup and has never lost a timer rec. recording from its five M-F daytime programs and several primetime weekly shows. I'm still using both April 2007 units w/o any problems during NORMAL operations.

Updates thru Apr 3, 2008 (Combined): Several analog-cable users have received Jan 2008 3575s and still have a digital tuning problem. Also, some analog-cable users have bought the "Factory Refreshed" units from Philips and seemed to have no problems, but lately two of those units had the tuning problem.


One thing of note, however, is that MANY (not all) of the people having digital tuning problems subscribe to basic or ext. basic COMCAST analog cable. Comcast is aggressively "updating" their systems and switching channel assignments...just something to be aware of that might require regular channel scans to keep up with them.

Update May 2, 2008: One person who has a 3575 that drops digital tuning in his analog cable feed got a new 3576, and it has the same problem. Like me, he can get digital tuning back by toggling the DTV/TV button. A couple of other analog cable users have new 3576's and report no loss of digital tuning, even tho they've tried my "stress test."

Update Sep 9, 2008: There have been two new 3576 users who report digital channel tuning problems in their COMCAST basic or ext. basic (analog) cable systems.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

P2. Possible Editing Freeze on 3575/3576 If You Use Divide before Delete under Certain Conditions

The 3575/76 has a very small, 2MB cache for storing edit instructions on-the-fly, which can create a problem if you Divide a title before cutting sections with Scene Delete. If Divided first, a title can freeze up during Scene Delete, requiring power unplug/replug to clear.


This problem seems to be caused by a HDD that's "too full" for complex edits and/or auto-chaptering set for 5-min. intervals.


The 2160/513/515/53x/557 have SATA HDDs with a larger cache and no one has reported the same edit problem with them.


The easy solution for a 3575/76 is to always make Scene Deletes first, then Divide as described here . Also, renaming one of the Divided segments immediately seems to make a difference... keeps from having two titles with same name on HDD.


Also, this DVDR is so good at transitioning from one back-to-back (BTB) timer rec to another on the same or different channels, you can set BTB programs and NEVER have to use Divide!



I had only one freeze-up with my 3575 as I was testing for this but it was related to Chapter Marks. I Divided a title, then went in to make Scene Deletes and found that I had "colliding" chapter marks. The problem title had 5-min. auto-chapter marks, and every Scene Delete was adding more chapter marks. When I got one new mark too close to an auto-set one, my title froze up. I went out of the Edit menu, back in, and deleted ALL chapter marks. (The MPEG-2/DVD specs have specific rules for how close and where chapter marks can be.)


I've since changed my auto-chapter setting to 10-min. intervals... I went for awhile with zero auto-chapter setting but found they were too handy during editing to eliminate altogether.

Update Apr 3, 2008: Found out that a couple of 3575/76 users who had persistent freeze-ups from Dividing, then Deleting, were running with their HDD full or almost full. (See this post.) If you do lots of editing, DON'T let your HDD get beyond ~75-80% full or freeze-ups can occur due to file fragmentation and lack of space. The 3575's Seagate HDD has only a small (2MB) cache for temp. storage. It's like your computer HDD: it doesn't delete data, just the "pointers" to the data (the Title entries), and it keeps editing instructions in a small (2MB) cache and prob. on the HDD also. So, it's advisable to clean off the HDD on a regular basis by deleting watched titles ASAP and/or offloading to DVDs. More basic info here.

Update Apr 27, 2008: Results of some testing of timer-rec of back-to-back programs shows this DVDR is EXCELLENT at minimizing loss of show while switching programs and/or channels... it loses only 3-sec at the beginning of succeeding shows on analog channels after the first one! This alone can reduce or even eliminate the need for DIVIDING since you can set back-to-back programs, even on the same channel, and end up with separate show titles requiring no Divide!? More details here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

P3. Possible Dark Pic, Primarily with Computer-Based 768p TVs

Some people with 3575/3576 units are reporting their TV pic is a little dark when viewing digital channels. Turns out MANY (not all) of these people have TVs 40" or smaller, which have a fixed resolution of 1366x768, even tho many are "advertised" as 720p. Their specs usually show "720p (768p)".


768p TVs are built for dual PC/computer and video applications, but their 768p resolution is not directly relateable to ANY TV/video resolution (480i/p, 720p or 1080i/p). Some of them also have a "protection circuit" that auto-darkens the pic if it senses a signal it thinks is from a PC, which might play a role in your system.

BOTTOM LINE: If you get a dark pic thru HDMI on a "720p" (true 768p) or 1080p HDTV, try both HDMI settings for Format and RGB Range as described here.


Also, try sending both 480p and 1080p, which "made the diff. between night and day" for one user.


 

Also, if your HDTV has HDMI1 and HDMI2 try both... one is usually for a diff. Gamma settings, which affects darkness.


Finally, see if you can also find a specific TV setting like any of these:

  1. For Panasonic TVs, check Menu > Picture > Advanced Picture > HD Size > ["Size 1" or "Size 2"] and try both. Size 2 is exact-pixel mapping and that's prob. your best bet to get a lighter and better pic.
  2. In other TVs, that same exact-pixel mapping might be named Just Scan, 1:1 or Dot-by-Dot.
  3. Also look for a "DTV" setting vs a "Computer" setting for the "type" of use and choose DTV.

 

If HDMI settings don't help, Component and S-Video output are one option for a brighter pic, as is returning the unit.

Old Apr 18, 2008: One user reported a "Factory Refreshed" 3575 he got has the dark (black-level) problem on ALL connection types, and he's on OTA antenna... first report from an OTA user. However, he did find that his 768p (computer-based) TV had a setting for "DVD" or "DTV" and setting it to DTV brightened the pic. So there IS a TV setting that can help... if the 768p people would just look for a similar setting for computer/SVGA vs. DTV/Video use.

Old May 2, 2008: Only two people so far have reported a dark pic with a 1080p LCD TV, one of which is me, but mine was directly on my TV, not thru my 3575, and it's on an analog channel. I have always seen a beautiful, bright pic on my 47" 1080p Vizio GV47L LCD, but one day I saw the local NBC evening news program on my analog channel 13, which recently switched to broadcasting in HD, and it was DARK ON THE COAX SIGNAL DIRECTLY TO THE TV, NOT THRU THE 3575! I saw this same darkness a second time and did some tests with my 3575 to see if IT could actually IMPROVE THE LIVE PIC, and I found an HDMI setting that DID brighten up the raw pic from my cable, as reported here.


The other report was from a 3575 user with a Samsung 52" 1080p LCD. He reported a dark pic with one particular dark scene in a commercial DVD (not his tuner). However, he found his HDMI Format was set on "RGB" and his "RGB Range" on "Enhanced" which tends to increase contrast for a sharper pic, but it also increases darkness in dark scenes. Changing his RGB Range back to the default "Standard" made his HDMI "brighter than Component!" But, better yet, when he changed his HDMI Format to YCbCr, his shows on the HDD and his DVDs look "great"! More details here.


 

Update Oct 8, 2008 - One user found that Gamma settings are inportant, esp, if using DVI. Many helpful hints and links here , followed by my post of trying HDMI2 vs HDMI1 input on your HDTV if it has both.

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P4. New 2160A for 2009 USED TO HAVE a problem with Disc Edit ops... now solved!

The previously reported FW bug in the new 2160A for 2009 HAS BEEN KILLED! Two fixes: a FW upgrade for a permanent fix, or a temp. workaround, as described here.


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P5. 513/515 Feezing (Appearing "Dead") for No Apparent Reason.

Some 513/515 units, mostly in cable systems, can suddenly appear "dead" after turning off or after a power event. Some are caused by analog interference in the tuner when people turn them off on an analog channel. Other causes are unknown.

 

Most, if not all, these "freezes" can be cleared with a Soft Reset, described here .

 

For units that exhibit multiple and recurrent freezes, Funai released a DTV tuner FW update, DTV Version 0x2C, as described here .

 

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Important Note on the "Digital Cliff" (Loss of Digital Tuning)


ONE possible, and "surprising," cause of reception problems with DIGITAL channels is the "Digital Cliff" or "Cliff Effect." Too weak or too strong a signal FROM COAX OR ANY LINE INPUT can make DIGITAL channels freeze, move in slo-mo, stutter, pixelate, disappear (fall off the cliff), etc., and can even cause problems with TVGOS or time signals. Wiki info here ... and good discussion here.


Since this DVDR has an AMPLIFIED video circuit, both coax and line inputs, it can be more sensitive to over-amplification, esp. if you have an amp just before this DVDR w/o lots of attenuation in between.


The Cliff Effect is exactly the OPPOSITE of all our previous experience with ANALOG channels, where we were always trying to get the STRONGEST signal... if we saw "snow" with a properly pointed antenna, we'd just "beef up" the signal strength. Not any more, bubba!


For DIGITAL TV, even your DVDR's signal-strength meter might not tell when the signal's too strong! DIGITAL tuners can be "over-driven" with signal strength and "splatter," so the possibility of a Cliff Effect is NOT indicated in the "meters" some of our equipment has... in fact, one expert says a very strong signal can register normally while it's splattering.


To determine if your signal is too weak or too strong thru the tuner, first do a "Hang-by-a-Thread Test" to see if it's too strong (most likely) and, if that doesn't improve things, add a bidirectional Digital Signal Amplifier to see if it's too weak. Only thing for a line input is to remove any amps that might be in that line?

 
HANG-BY-A-THREAD TEST


Here's a quick-n-easy prelim. test to determine if your digital signal is too STRONG thru the tuner only:
  1. Unscrew the incoming coax from this DVDR's ANT IN (top) coax connector until it's hanging by only one or two threads. Pull on the cable to make sure the center wire is withdrawn some and not "fully-seated" anymore.
  2. Check channels.

This usually degrades the signal just enough to see if there's any difference... UNLESS you've got coax with the center wire too long, which makes it NEVER lose solid contact. If center wire sticks out beyond threaded nut more than 1/16-1/8" or so, trim it back before doing this test.


If you've got a pic on the problem channel(s) that breaks up, pixelates, freezes, etc... or just plain disappears... this test may clear the pic up. If your channel(s) have been "disappearing" (blue or black screen), they might re-appear with this test.


OR if you never DID get digital channels after a good scan, you might need to do a new Auto Channel Preset with the coax in its attenuated state (still hanging by a thread), then check for presence and stability of your expected digital channel(s)... don't immediately screw the coax in tight cuz if the signal is too strong, it'll splatter again and you won't have proved anything. Once you're convinced that the signal is too strong, then you can use one or more splitters or buy one or more RF attenuators (they're "cheap") for a permanenet installation.

See this post for flamike's successful "coax-on-a-thread" test .


If the quick-n-easy prelim. test suggests attenutation is needed on the incoming coax, you can do the following:
  1. Remove any amplifiers leading to this DVDR. This might be the solution... no further action required?
  2. If no amplifier is inline, install a 2-way splitter on the incoming coax with one output to this DVDR and one to your TV. Note how many -dB each output of the splitter has, e.g., if balanced -3.7dB or unbalanced -3.7dB and -7.4dB, and try both outputs to see if a specific dB-weakening thru the splitter helps. You could also go directly to Step 3 with attenuators... they're pretty cheap.
  3. Install one or more signal attenuators of appropriate strength on the incoming coax in front of this DVDR ( flamike's attenuator source is here ). To help decide which one(s) to buy, here's how flamike used two of the three he bought ... however, each system will be diff. and his was a rather complex one that might not apply to anyone else?

Below are a couple of other options for attenuation... don't have any experience with these, but they sound very interesting:
  1. Winegard TC-200A Tilt Compensator, $10.95.

    Description: "Coaxial cable attenuates high frequencies greater than low frequencies. This problem is most severe when cascading amplifiers one after another. The signal differences are attenuated to a point where the high frequency signals are so small compared to the low frequency signals that the high frequency signals can no longer be received. The TC-200A Tilt Compensator provides a balanced signal level by compensating for 200 feet of coax cable loss and allowing all signal levels on all channels to be of equal amplitude at distant locations. Therefore, the picture quality on the higher channels will be maintained."
  2. Winegard TA-8700 Variable Attenuator, $19.85.

    A 75-Ohm attenuator for continuously variable attenuation from 1-17 dB. AC-DC passive.

 

Attenuating or reducing the signal in front of this DVDR shouldn't affect downstream components (STBs, TVs, other DVDRs, etc.) cuz this DVDR amplifies whatever signal it receives, so those downstream components *should* be receiving about the same signal strength they used to get.


In addition to the signal-strength problem, a couple of 3576 users and many users of other DVDRs are suddenly (starting in Sep 2008) seeing a CP flag in COMMERCIALS, which allows you to record to the HDD but not offload/dub to a DVD. More info here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Operating Idiosyncracies

Op1. 3575/3576/2080 STOP Button Stops Play AND Record - Big Diff. between those units and 2160/513/515/53x/557

This DVDR doesn't have a separate "Stop Recording" button like the Pio 640 and maybe others, so the STOP button is used for stopping playback AS WELL AS RECORDING!



3575/3576/2080 users (only) have to be especially careful with the STOP button while a normal recording is in progress thru the REC button or a timer program. Pressing the STOP button once, by accident or on purpose, will stop the recording! That's fine for stopping a recording if that's what you want to do. However, where you could get into trouble is while watching something else from the HDD or a DVD during a recording. In this situation if you press the STOP button to stop playback, the playback will stop on Resume and the recording will continue. BUT, with all playback stopped, if you press the STOP button again at any time, the recording will also stop! Try to remember: pressing STOP twice in a row on the 3575/3576 serves no useful purpose... ever!!!


HOWEVER, on the original 2160 (mfg 2008), you can press STOP on the remote as many times in a row as you want and it'll only stop playback. To stop recording, you have to HOLD the STOP button down for 2 seconds, or press the STOP button on the front panel... an excellent feature compared to the 3575/3576! The newer Mag 2160A/513/515/53x/557 have added a STOP dialog after holding the STOP button that asks if you want to stop recording Yes/No!


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Op2. Heat and EMI Can Cause Stuttering, Freezing, False Copy Protection

Someone in Ireland bought a Philips EU 3595 and had problems with stuttering, freezing, etc. and replaced it with an EU 3575 and had similar problems. The frantic analysis of his problems on videohelp.com turned up some interesting potential reasons for his problems THAT COULD APPLY TO ANY DVDR.
Machine #1 - EU 3595 - Reasonable explanation: Turns out he had it crammed into a bookcase shelf WITH NO AIR SPACE ON FRONT RIGHT SIDE, PLUS IT WAS JUST BELOW AN OLD, HUGE CRT TV, so machine was getting too hot (intake air vents are on front right side) and there was possible electromagnetic interference (EMI) altho not suspected yet (until Machine #2).
Machine #2 - EU 3575 - Reasonable explanation: Turns out he had this one ALSO crammed into that bookcase shelf with no airspace and it was under same CRT TV. So, once I accused him of "DvdSlaughter" by suffocating his machines, he moved the 3575 to the top of his old, huge CRT TV, as shown here , and it started working OK for awhile, then back to stuttering, freezing, plus now failure to record as if programs were copy-protected (CP). Orsetto did a test on a friend's U.S. 3575, reported here , where he placed the 3575 on top of a 32" CRT TV, AND GOT THE SAME STUTTERING, LOCKUPS, AND FALSE CP SYMPTOMS. The user claimed he had an old HS2 recorder in his bookcase, BUT IT WAS 2 SHELVES AWAY, ON BOTTOM OF 3 SHELVES, BELOW THE OLD CRT... AND IT WAS UNDERNEATH HIS SKYBOX (STB) WHICH SHIELDED IT FURTHER FROM THE TV! Hey, CP works by "disrupting" the normal video signal, and EMI can do the same, so some people may be self-CPing and not know it!?


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Op3. Format/Finalize Locked Out Before Timer Rec Program: Format RW=15 min., Finalize=1-hour

You can't start a DVD±RW Format if there's a timer rec program that might start within the next 15-min., and you can't start a Finalize within 1-hour, exactly (not even at 59 minutes from timer start!). This DVDR allows those times cuz Formatting and Finalizing can't be interrupted or the disc can become unusable since our DVDR op system can't restart an interrupted process like a computer can. You have three options if Format or Finalize is not available: (1) wait till next timer rec program ends, or (2) temp. change next timer program's start time and reset it after Format or Finalize, or (3) buy multiple DVDRs and use one of the other machines like I do!


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Op4. Shutdown Procedure Takes 15-20 sec - Don't Cycle Power Too Quickly... or Too Often

All units except the 515/53x/557 take about 15-20 sec to actually shut down completely and park the HDD heads, so don't turn it back on immediately after shutting it down, which might induce some "over-spin" in the HDD. The 515/53x/557 shuts down in ~7 sec (and starts up in ~10 sec).


My Vizio LCD's let me know when the heads have parked and the disk(s) have spun down completely cuz it turns blue-screen when there's no more video signal or "activity."


On occasion, when I cycle power off then on too quickly, I can't turn my 3575 off with the remote's power button. If that happen, play something from the HDD title menu, then power can be turned off normally with the remote... no clue why?


Drive mfgrs rate their longevity in "contact start/stop cycles" not spin or working time. A start/stop cycle is defined here as a power-on/power-off cycle... 50,000 for our drives. So, if you power this DVDR up/down three times a day, you might think you'd get 45 YEARS out of the HDD. But, in the REAL world, experts say 3-5 years is a good lifespan for a modern HDD, as described here. Those just happen to be the std warranty period for HDDs... as of Jan 1 2009, Seagate lowered their std warranty period from 5 years to 3 years for our 3575/3576 HDD, and the same as the Hitachi 2160 HDD.

There's good info on HDD longevity in this post by SteelTownGuy.

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Op5. Power Sag or Freeze

Many electronically controlled devices, like TVs, DVDRs, new dehumidifiers, etc., might not return to FULL op. status after a power loss, e.g., dehumdifier fan might work but compressor not. They have a "standby" circuit that needs constant power to retain electronic settings, which might not auto-reset when power comes back on. If this DVDR loses power and then won't power up, unplug it for just 5 sec or less and replug... nothing will be lost.


If it freezes and you can't do anything with it, or if it's "dead" (won't turn on), pull power plug and do a Soft Reset, as described here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Op6. HDD Repair Utility Might Activate When Needed

This DVDR has a user-invokable, user-controlled "Format" command for the HDD with the SKIP 079 code, described here . It also has an automatic Repair program that you might see under certain unusual conditions. The manual says this: "Repairing" appears on the TV screen. If there is a power failure or unplugging during recording, finalizing, formatting or editing (even after "Repairing" disappears), a repairing process will begin automatically just after turning the unit on again. It may take several minutes up to about several hours."

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Op7. "Frozen" Title Can't Be Deleted

If you (or the machine) start a manual recording then stop it BEFORE THE RED DOT DISAPPEARS (or the machine stops it immediately for some problem), that title can "freeze" cuz the HDD Rec icon is still being displayed on screen (for ~6 sec), so the op system is "busy." Sometimes, a Divide can also freeze a title with an "0:00" time. Frozen titles don't seem to hurt anything so they can be left in place, and they sometimes can be deleted in the normal manner with the Title Delete menu, but after a power cycle. Several people have tried the combo of Protecting titles they wanted to save, using the Edit > Protect menu on each title, then using the Setup > HDD Menu > Delete All Unprotected Titles option, but they reported that it didn't work... on 11/14/09 however, Stump 69 did the Protect/Delete Unprotected trick and it worked!? Don't give up too soon trying to delete in the normal manner. I worked for a long time trying to delete a frozen title, gave up and turned machine off, then my wife turned machine on after I told her about the frozen title, and she deleted it with no problem... called me a "putz" or "klutz" or something like that. Lucky for her I don't hear so good!



Update Sep 2011: An untested remedy? If you have a frozen title, try a Soft Reset, as described here. Then try to delete the frozen title normally.

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Op8. Disc Menu of Home-Made DVDs Will Show an "Empty Title" But It Can Be Deleted

DVD discs you create in this DVDR will show an "Empty Title" which is a placeholder for all Philips/Magnavox +VR recorders (50% of all sold in N.A.). It serves a specific technical purpose but most people don't like it on their home-made discs. It can be deleted with the Overwrite procedure described here.


The 515/53x/557 changed that to "Empty Space" on discs.

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Op9. Fan Mounting Design Can Cause "Harmonic" Noise in Case

A few people have complained that their unit is a little noisy when it's on and the fan is running. One of my three 3575's started out a little noisy (only my wife could hear it), but I found it was from a "harmonic" in the unit's case when the fan was running, and it's from the way the fan is mounted (couldn't hear my fan when SLIGHTLY removed from case... careful, thin wires connected to inside). You can test for the same "harmonic" by pressing your finger on the TOP CENTER of the case, and/or towards the back end near the fan and see if it doesn't quiet down. I found I could reduce the harmonic to where my eagle-ears-wife could barely hear it after listening awhile by placing some heavy knick-knack with silicone feet on top. Another video component with an added silicone foot right over the harmonic's "sweet-spot" did the trick too? The harmonic comes from the way the fan is mounted. There are two screws on one side, but the other side is held in place by tabs on the fan that fit into slots in the back panel of the unit. Screws instead of tabs-in-slots would have made for a quieter assembly and maybe no harmonic? Couldn't actually "remove" the fan cuz there are thin wires that connect to inside circuit so fan can't be pulled away from back panel very far at all... more like you can just "twist" it towards the screw side after carefully working tabs out of back panel. I added some thin magnetic ref. mag strips between the fan and three edges of the case opening; helped some but removed them cuz I don't think it's "safe"... they could fall into the fan someday? Remedies: (1) tighten screws and wait a couple of weeks for the fan to settle into its "groove" (mine did), (2) place other component on top with extra "foot" over harmonic spot, (3) take unit back, (4) ???.

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Op10. Some "odd" noises when DVDR starts up or searches for auto-clock time signal.

When this DVDR starts up at power-on, it searches for a DVD in the tray (in case it's a startup DVD like FW) and starts the HDD spinning. This activity makes some "strange" noises to first-time users, like a calunk-calunk-whirrr-calunk. Not to worry, it's normal.



This DVDR also has an Auto Clock feature which, if set to on (which is the default), searches for a time signal at 11:59 am and 11:59 pm. It doesn't power-up, just turns the fan on and activates the tuner circuits to search each channel for a signal. You'll hear the fan noise for ~2 min., then it spins down with no indication on front panel thru the entire process. Setting Auto Clock to a Manual channel reduces the search time... a procedure for confirming a good time signal with a Manual channel setting is given here .

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An amazingly thorough series of posts. A great primer for the newbies.

I have a Philips HDD unit on order and due to arrive soon. My two Panny HDD units have served me well for a couple years recording a couple hours every day, but I am worried they might drop dead. The Philips seems to be the only HDD option with digital tuning. My main use is to record material for editing and authoring on the PC so I use only + or - RW discs (RAM on the Panny units). My RCA HDD and the Magnavox non-HDD units can both write to -RW and +RW, but for some reason, I can only read on the PC +RW from the RCA and -RW from the Magnavox. My Samsung combo unit can write to plus or minus RW and both are readable on the PC. I will be interested to see and will report on my results from the Philips unit, particularly regarding compatibility with the PC. I should add, the RW discs, plus or minus, made on either the RCA or the Magnavox play fine on standard DVD players.

Durability will be key. I have had many bad DVD recorders that stopped working properly not many months after going into service, including JVC, Pioneer, Go, Liteon and Panny. The two Panny HDD units are very exceptional as I had 3 Panny non-HDD units crap out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)


DUBBING HDD>DVD>HDD, FINALIZING, EMPTY TITLE... DATELESS DVDs

Jump To:
Notes
Pauses at Scene-Delete Edit Points After Dubbing, Philips vs. Magnavox
Dubbing HDD>DVD - Single or Multiple Titles, Recommended Method
Dubbing DVD>HDD - Finalized and Unfinalized Discs
Stopping a Dub
Deleting the EMPTY TITLE/SPACE on a DVD±R
Finalizing/Unfinalizing on Same-Brand/Model of +VR DVDR
Finalizing/Unfinalizing in Different-Brand/Model of +VR DVDR
Dubbing on Different Brands/Models of +VR DVDR
Making DVD Copies Without Current Date or Time
NOT Recommended - Dubbing Single Title HDD>DVD thru Title Menu
NOT Recommended - Dubbing Single Title HDD>DVD with D.Dubbing

Notes


  1. The reason we can fit only 4424 MB, or 4.424 GB, of info on a "4.7 GB" disc is simply the difference in figuring capacity: disc mfgrs use the decimal numbering system (K=1000) to represent their total decimal capacity, but our DVDRs and computers must put binary data (K=1024) on that disc. Same diff. is shown in your computer's disc capacity vs. used space.
  2. High-speed dub (HSD) retains ALL chapter marks in the DVD copy (auto- and custom-set). Real-time dub (RTD) strips those and sets marks only per your auto-chapter setting in the Recording menu.
  3. A Real-Time Dub (RTD) from HDD to DVD sets the DVDR default rec mode to whatever you select for the RTD. Always check your default rec mode after a RTD.
  4. Neither TV Aspect nor channel tuned at time of dubbing affect anything in the dub process or change pic results. What you see is what you get.
  5. The Finalize option will be greyed out and unavailable if there's a timer rec program that might start within 1 hour (00:59:59 or less).
  6. DO NOT PULL THE POWER CORD WHILE RECORDING. You can stop a recording immediately by presing the STOP button on the front of the unit or the 2080/3575/3576 remote (hold button on 2160/2160A/513/515/53x/557. might get Yes/No dialog).
  7. There are TWO ways to fix the E19 Finalize/Format/Erase bug in the 2160A, as described here.
  8. Special Notes for All Dubbing:
    You may see one of these dialogs before or during setup of a timer recording:

    "There are Timer Programming, Start Dubbing? Yes No"
    If you start a dub with not enough time to complete, the dub might not complete or it might ruin the disc, depending on several factors:
    • If using a ±RW disc, nothing will be written to the DVD even if the progress bar shows completion of the "Writing to disc" portion of the dub.
    • If using a ±R disc, data will be written to disc until the timer starts, but it won't show up in a title and that space will be used up. You can access the disc menu by doing a short rec, and it may show Empty Space remaining, but that disc will most likely be nonrecordable, i.e., it'll be hosed.

    "It may not be possible to dub all titles. Start dubbing anyway? Yes No"
    This dialog is just a cautionary thing. You need the title run time +5 min. or so before next timer program to avoid this dialog. If you plan to high-speed dub (HSD), you can proceed if you have a "normal" HSD elapsed time for that recorder, title run time, and disc type. Some typ. elapsed times are here.

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Pauses at Scene-Delete Edit Points After Dubbing, Philips vs. Magnavox

I did some tests with my Mag 513 to check against my original (early) results with my Philips 3575 on pauses at Scene Delete edit points after Dubbing to DVD. Where a RTD of an edited title in my 3575 gave me an odd still-pause-still frame sequence at Scene Delete edit points, my 513 edit points were just slight delays, no still frames.

I did a short recording in SP, made one Scene Delete, then HSD'd and RTD'd it to a -RW disc. Pauses, in both Unfinalized and Finalized state and played back on the 513 and a 2160, were approximately:

Original on HDD = 1 sec
RTD SP>SP = 1.25 sec
RTD SP>LP = 1.25 sec
HSD = 2 sec

My pause times were measured with the SWAG method: "1001, 1002, 1003."


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Dubbing HDD>DVD - Single or Multiple Titles, Recommended Method


  • A single DVD can hold 49 titles, 99 chapters per title, 254 chapters total.
  • What shows on TV screen during dubbing: HSD = live TV, RTD = the title being dubbed.
  • A Real-Time Dub (RTD) from HDD to DVD sets the DVDR default rec mode to whatever you select for the RTD. Always check your default rec mode after a RTD.
  • See Note 7 above for Special Notes for All Dubbing.

* * * * * * * *
DUBBING PREP
* * * * * * * *

  1. Select HDD drive, then press HDD TITLE button.
  2. Select 1st title to be dubbed and click OK.
  3. Select Edit > Edit Title Name, and enter a custom title that describes contents, as described here. Note the discussion there of what gets transferred to the DVD from each line of the HDD title... important to know in advance.
  4. Since DVDs use the 1st frame of a title for its still frame index pic, make sure the beginning of your title(s) have a good, BRIGHT 1st frame that identifies the content. Best to do that on the HDD by doing a "Front-Cut" on the title as described here. You can also do it on the DVD (except in a 557), where you can select ANY frame for the index pic so no Front-Cut needed, but it's slower and takes slightly longer.
  5. Repeat custom title naming and Front-Cutting for each title to be dubbed.
  6. Press BACK/RETURN to get out of menus to live TV.

* * * * * * * *
DUBBING
* * * * * * * *

  1. Load a blank DVD±R for archiving or giving to others, or a DVD±RW for temporary use and erase. If your DVD already has titles from a different +VR machine, like from a Philips to a Mag or vice versa, make sure you first turn Setup/Menu > Recording > Make Recording Compatible ON (557 doesn't have this)... you'll be advised to do that with a large message if you don't.
  2. With nothing playing, open dubbing menu (disc must be fully loaded, ~20 sec):

    Option 1, Press SETUP/MENU button and click OK on "Dubbing" option.

    Option 2, Press DIRECT DUBBING, D. DUBBING, or DUBBING button (depends on model).
  3. With HDD > DVD highlighted, press OK.
  4. With Add highlighted, press OK, which brings you to the Title menu.
  5. Select title(s) to be dubbed.

    Selecting Titles with 3575/3676/2080/2160:
    Select first title w/arrow keys and press OK, which brings you back to the dub list. Keep Adding this way till all desired titles are in Dubbing List.

    Selecting Titles with 2160A/513/515/53x/557:
    After pressing OK on 1st title, you'll stay in the title menu. A number "1" will appear in upper-left corner of 1st index pic indicating 1st title to be added to dub list. Click OK on any other titles you want to dub, which adds a number to those titles. (You can rearrange order later if desired.) When thru selecting, press the D.Dubbing button to Add the title(s) selected to the dub menu. This "registers" the title(s) and places a checkmark on the index pic(s) so you can see already-selected title(s) in case you go back to the title menu during this process to Add another. You can move between title menu and dub list with the left- and right-arrow buttons.

    Max. of 18 titles in Dubbing List in one session. For more, dub 1st 18 then repeat as many times as will fit on the disc. HINT: If you need more than one DVD, dub 1st list to that many DVDs, then create 2nd list, dub to all, etc.

    Once in the dub list, titles can be Moved (up or down in order) or Deleted, which does NOT delete the title from the HDD, just from the dub list... press OK on a title and select Move or Delete... after selecting Move, arrow to new position in list and press OK.

    Titles don't have to be all the same rec mode or aspect ratio; you can mix them together in a dub list. Only restriction is no SLP title can be more than 4:59:59 long if you're planning on HSD.
  6. To start dubbing, arrow down to Dubbing Start and press OK. Menu changes to a list of rec. modes available for that title. If you get a "Disc is full" message, you've Added too much capacity (MB) to the dubbing list to fit on the loaded disc at any rec mode (even a blank disc which can't be "full").

    Rec-Mode Selection Menu
  7. If HIGH is highlighted (the entire box, not lined like selecting a title), press OK and answer Yes to dialog. A high-speed dub (HSD) will begin and you can walk away or watch something else thru the TV or this DVDR's tuner.

    If TOTAL file size of all titles added is MORE than disc capacity (4424 MB), the next lower-quality rec. mode will be auto-highlighted AND the "Dubbing Titles" capacity will show the NEW file size for that lower-quality rec mode. If you press OK and answer Yes to dialog, a real-time dub (RTD) will begin at a lower quality, it will take as long as the title runs in hours:minutes, and it will occupy the TV screen when viewed thru this DVDR... you CAN watch a channel thru your TV's tuner, tho.
    • "High" is the best possible dub mode. It's a lossless transfer and it takes less space on a disc. "High" is highlighted (entire box), so it's easy to miss that it's actually "selected" cuz you're prob. used to seeing a highlight LINE around an item when you select it.
    • HSD retains ALL chapter marks in the DVD copy (auto- and custom-set). RTD strips those and sets marks only per your auto-chapter setting in the Recording menu. You MUST FINALIZE a disc for playing on other machines with all chapter marks as you intended.
    • With HSD, you can get more time on a std DVD than with RTD.
    • See this post for more info on HSD and a list of HSD Times.
  8. To change your mind in Step 7, either Back/Return out or, if already at the Yes/No dialog, arrow down to "No" and press OK. One reason to change your mind might be if you decide to edit titles down to lower total file size so the title(s) can be HS-dubbed instead of RT-dubbed?
  9. Once you start a dub, the machine takes over and stops dubbing when the last bit of the original is copied to the other drive... you don't need to babysit a dub. A RTD will occupy the DVDR and show what you're dubbing on screen, whereas a HSD doesn't show on screen so you can watch something else with this DVDR's tuner. You can also watch a channel on your TV if you have coax from this DVDR to your TV.

    The last step in a dub is "Writing to disc" with a progress bar at bottom of screen for each title being dubbed. You'll know a dub is done when the TV goes silent cuz its last act is to display the disc menu.

    Above the "Writing to disc" bar will be a message ADVISING you to Finalize for playing in other machines... it DOES NOT mean the disc is actually being finalized! FINALIZING IS NOT AUTOMATIC since you might want to add more titles later. To Finalize, go to Disc Edit menu, select Finalize and follow prompts. Takes ~2 minutes to Finalize 2-hrs of SP video. The less video on the disc, the longer Finalizing will take cuz it has to "close" all the open space, so fill-er-up if you can!
  10. Titles in the Dub List will be deleted if you open the disc tray, Finalize the disc (cuz "Dubbing" option disappears), or record something else to the HDD while the disc is in the tray.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Dubbing DVD>HDD - Finalized and Unfinalized Discs

NOTES:
1. See Note 7 above for Special Notes for All Dubbing.
2. Some users haven't been able to use internal drives for dubbing VCD discs to HDD. Try with external player (and possibly a converter/CP filter, if needed)?

Dubbing DVD>HDD from a home-made or other non-copy-protected disc with this DVDR's internal drives, is done in real-time only... there's no HSD from DVD to the HDD, using either the internal drives or an external DVD player.

Dubbing is described below, depending on whether the DVD is Finalized or Unfinalized. (+RW discs don't need Finalizing.) You can tell if a DVD±R or -RW is Finalized or Unfinalized by selecting the DVD drive and arrowing up from 1st title or left from any title on the 1st page, which brings up a disc Status screen.

FINALIZED DVD±R or -RW, or DVD+RW... D.DUBBING ONE TITLE AT A TIME


  1. Select HDD drive and set desired Rec Mode for the copy to HDD.
  2. Select DVD drive and load a FINALIZED, non-copy-protected disc (takes ~20 sec to load).
  3. Open Disc Menu (using DISC MENU or Title button).
  4. Select a single title you want to dub to HDD.
  5. Press PLAY.
  6. Anytime while playing, press DIRECT DUBBING, D. DUBBING, or DUBBING button on remote (depends on model). Entire title will dub to HDD in real time, no matter where the title is in playback.
  7. Repeat for any other title(s) you want to copy to the HDD.

If copying a home-made DVD, the title lines will be different on the HDD depending on whether you're using a 357x or later Mag unit. The 357x models (at least the 3575 I did the original tests on) will D.Dub a Finalized DVD to HDD at the HDD rec mode set by user, but if you didn't use Change Titles on that discs titles, the original 1st line of the title will still include the original rec mode listed in that line. So, if a 357x user changes rec mode for a DVD>HDD dub using D.Dubbing, the two resulting title lines on the HDD will have different rec modes listed. Line 1 will show the original rec mode from the default (unchanged) line 1 of the DVD title, while line 2 will show the as-dubbed rec mode. This only applies if you don't change the names of DVD titles, and it applies only to 357x models AFAIK..

Important Note: If you're unable to Dub Finalized DVDs > HDD with a 3575/6, it may be due to your Make Recording Compatible (MRC) option being ON (557 doesn't have this). Try Dubbing with MRC OFF.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

UNFINALIZED DVD±R OR -RW... ADD TITLE(S) TO DVD>HDD DUB MENU


  1. Load Unfinalized disc, one that will play in your DVDR in an unfinalized state, i.e., disc has to have been created in same brand/model of machine, or converted via Make Recording Compatible, as described in Option 1 here (557 doesn't have this).
  2. Open Setup menu using SETUP/MENU button (doesn't matter which drive is selected).
  3. Scroll up once or scroll down to DUBBING option and click OK.
  4. Select DVD>HDD option.
  5. ADD first title you want to dub to HDD.
  6. ADD any other titles you want to dub to HDD.
  7. Scroll down to Dubbing Start option and click OK.
  8. Select a REC MODE and click OK (HIGH is not an option for DVD>HDD).
  9. Answer Yes to Start Dubbing? dialog to start dubbing.
  10. All the selected/Added titles will dub to the HDD, together, in real-time. (You'll see a sequential Writing to Disc message for each title... wait for no more progress bar or messages.)

Commercial movies/programs on DVD typically contain strong copy-protection (CP) and most likely will not copy in an internal DVD>HDD dub. You'll need an external player and one of the CP-strippers described here.

For VHS movies, you can use the MCM CP-stripper in that link. Without ANY CP stripper, I was still successful on 9 of 14 1st-run comm. movies on VHS tape, as described here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Stopping a Dub

To STOP any dubbing session, press the STOP button on the front of a 2080/3575/3576, or hold the STOP button on the remote for 2 sec with a 2160/2160A/513/515/53x/557, which may get Yes/No dialog. If you STOP a dub to a DVD±R disc, that disc may be unusable again.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Deleting the EMPTY TITLE/SPACE on a DVD±R

NOTE: To Delete the Empty Title with a 2160A with timer rec programs set, you must first apply one of the two fixes for a FW bug described here.

In DVDRs that use the Philips +VR standard (not the 557), all DVDs will show an "Empty Title" ("Empty Space" in 515/53x) in the Disc Menu. As long as the DVD is unfinalized, the Empty Title/Space shows the amount of rec time remaining on the DVD at each rec mode (press REC MODE button while viewing the disc title screen). That's called a "Reserved Fragment" and serves a specific technical purpose which no one is interested in... only how to get rid of it!

If you really don't like the Empty Title/Space on your DVD±R discs, here's the procedure for deleting it before Finalizing:


  1. Tune DVDR to any live TV channel or an external input with live video source (like a cable/sat box).
    Don't tune to a "dead" line input (no video) or a music channel since those will take "forever"... no video to write to disk and use up space quickly. Make sure you DON'T have the "End of Disc" Auto Finalize option on in the Recording menu or this DVDR will begin Finalizing BEFORE you have a chance to delete the new title.
  2. Select DVD drive and load your disc.
    I
    f the disc came from your one and only DVDR or from same brand/model of machine (Philips or Mag), proceed to Step 4.
    If from a different brand/model of +VR DVDR, like a Mag disc in a Philips or vice versa:
    • Set Recording > Make Recording Compatible to ON... just leave this on (557 doesn't have this).
    • Record live TV on the DVD just long enough for the red REC dot to disappear... ~6 sec or so.
    • Delete that short title... it's done its job of transferring ownership and changing the menu structure.
  3. Set HQ rec mode (to minimize Rec or Overwrite time in Step 4).
  4. Delete Empty Title/Space... two alternatives:

    Alternate #1 - Record to End

    With DVD drive selected, press REC.
    Recording will stop when DVD's Empty Title/Space is filled up. (Only a timer rec switches to the HDD when disc is full, i.e., the "Alternate Recording" feature.)

    Alternate #2 - Overwrite
    Click OK on Empty Title/Space and select the "OVERWRITE" option.
    Red REC dot and Pause symbol show on screen. Press Pause or REC to record over the Empty Title/Space with an exact-length "filler" title. Stops itself when done. Overwriting starts with whatever's showing on live TV and auto-stops when it fills up the disc, so you can leave and play with the kids! Recorded time will count up on the front-panel display and at the top of the INFO/DISPLAY menu, and time remaining will appear in the bottom-right corner of the INFO/DISPLAY menu and go to zero, but the process might still be incomplete... don't stop the overwrite manually... it'll stop on its own. Your first clue that the overwrite is done is a silent TV, which happens cuz the machine will display the disc menu for a short time. If that releases and returns to live TV, the red dot, "Writing to Disc" progress bar, and all counters will be gone, i.e., NOTHING will be on screen anymore except the live TV pic.
  5. Select new/last title on DVD and press OK > Edit > Title Delete.
  6. Finalize disc with Disc Edit menu.
  7. Reset rec mode to your normal default.

This doesn't work on DVD±RW cuz they're designed to return deleted space so, when you delete the new (last) title, it creates a NEW Empty Title/Space... can you say "Catch-22"!?

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Finalizing/Unfinalizing on Same-Brand/Model of +VR DVDR


  • The Finalize option will be greyed out and unavailable if there's a timer rec program that might start within 1 hour (60 full minutes) from the time you finish w/dub menu and press OK.. That's an arbitrary time gap Funai selected. The more blank space on a disc the longer it takes to "close" that space and complete the Finalize op. With the slowest combo of a 3575, -RW disc, and 10-sec recording, Finalize time is ~8 min. Typ. Finalize time is 2-3 min.
  • If Finalize is not available due to a pending timer rec program, you can change the DATE of the next program... don't worry about an "overlap" warning cuz you're going to reset the date after Finalize... right?! With a 515/53x/557 you could also set the next program to "Skip" one time, then uncheck the skip . when done as described here.

To Finalize in a 2160A with timer rec programs set, you must use the L3 workaround or apply one of the FW fixes described here.

Finalizing on my 513 takes approximately:
2:18 for 1 ea. 60-min title (59:58) on 4X -RW.
2:32 for 2 ea .60-min titles (59:58 ea.) on 4X -RW.
3:25 for 2 ea. 60-min titles (59:58 ea.) on 8X -R.

To Finalize a disc:

  1. With machine on either drive (HDD or DVD), insert an unfinalized ±R or -RW disc. (+RW don't need Finalizing.)
  2. While the disc is loading, open the Setup/Menu > Disc Edit menu and, when the Finalize option becomes active/black, select it.
  3. Answer Yes to the "Finalize disc?" dialog.

Finalizing adds the disc menu and other info to DVD±R/-RW discs and makes them read-only... like "Closing" a CD. It then allows any other player or recorder to play them... as long as that player is NTSC and -R/+R-capable. *Most all* players/recorders mfgd in 2004 or earlier are most likely -R only (and even some mfgd 2005-2006 since +R discs were introduced in 2004?)

Before Finalizing, only the machine/model that burns a DVD can Finalize it... except the Philips and Mag can Finalize each others' discs if Recording > Make Recording Compatible is ON (557 doesn't have this). See next section below.

At the end of dubbing or recording, during the final "Writing to disc" process, there'll be a message above the progress bar ADVISING you to Finalize for playing in other machines... many people mistake this for an auto-finalizing step... it's NOT.

FINALIZING IS NOT AUTOMATIC unless you set one of the rather "stupid" options in the Recording > Auto Finalize menu: Disc Full (never happens except when Overwriting the Empty Title, but then you won't have a chance to delete the Overwritten title) and End of Timer Program (who timer recs to a disc, Uncle Dufus?). These are off by default and I recommend you keep them off... Finalizing should only be done manually AFTER you're SURE the disc has everything just the way you want it (edited, good title and 1st frame for static thumbnail, etc.).

For -RW discs only, the Finalize option "toggles" between Finalize and Unfinalize. This ability to Unfinalize a -RW disc is a big advantage for recording stuff temporarily so it can play in other machines, then be Unfinalized so existing titles can be edited or deleted, or the entire contents erased for reuse. Some other DVDRs don't allow this option... they require Erasing or Formatting, which deletes all contents whether that's what you want to do or not.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Finalizing/Unfinalizing in Different-Brand/Model of +VR DVDR
Note: To Finalize in a 2160A with timer rec programs set, you must first apply one of the two fixes for a FW bug described here.
If you want to Finalize an unfinalized disc created in a different-brand of +VR DVDR, like a Philips disc in a Mag or vice versa:


  1. Turn Setup/Menu > Recording > Make Recording Compatible ON (557 doesn't have this)
  2. Record live TV on the disc just long enough for the red REC dot to disappear... ~6 sec or so.
  3. Delete that short title... it's done its job of transferring ownership and changing the menu structure.
  4. If desired, get rid of the Empty Title as described here.
  5. Finalize the disc normally.
WARNING: Don't wait too long to Finalize your discs! Many sad stories of people who didn't Finalize a bunch of discs and got stuck with a broken machine... one recently with an old, broken JVC, a repair cost of $200-300 just for labor, and 200 unfinalized discs RECORDED IN VR-MODE! Can you say triple-WTF: no working machine, repair costs more than a new machine IF IT WERE AVAILABLE (NOT!), and VR-mode discs only THAT machine can read!

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Dubbing on Different Brands/Models of +VR DVDR

You can dub titles on unfinalized DVDs created in different brands of +VR DVDRs, like dubbing to a disc created in a Philips 3576 with a Mag 2160. To do so, you have to turn Recording > Make Recording Compatible (MRC) ON (557 doesn't have this).

See "Option 1" here for instructions.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Making DVD Copies Without Current Date or Time

Some people with easily confused relatives want to produce "dateless" DVDs so they don't see a rec date of 2012 on home movies taken in 1985. Unfortunately, you can't just change your clock to some year back in the "good old days" since your clock only goes back to 1st year of model production, e.g., 2007 for the 3575.

They said is couldn't be done! However, you CAN get dateless DVDs on any model by losing the clock, then copying direct-to-DVD (DTD) from an external source like your VCR. The 357x and 2080 can also produce dateless DVDs via internal dubbing. For the benefits and advantages of DTD for home and comm. movie dubbing, click here.

Here's the procedure:


  1. Write Timer Rec programs down or take a pic.
    You'll lose timer programs in Step 3, along with the clock.
  2. Turn Auto Clock OFF.
    This is to make sure the machine doesn't find a time/date from a station immediately after turning machine on and off in next step (which it's programmed to do). DON'T ever open the Clock menu; if you do, a default date will appear there, which will be transferred to titles.
  3. Unplug power for specified time, then replug.
    Specified time = at least 5 min. for 357x/2080/2160/2160A/513, 2½ hours for 515/53x/557.
    Plug power cord back in. Clock must show --:-- . If clock time shows, start over.
    DO NOT GO TO OR OPEN CLOCK MENU!
  4. Copy direct-to-DVD via L1 or L2.
    This will give you a DVD with the source (L1, L2 or ch.#) on top line ready for customizing and the run time on 2nd line. With the 357x and 2080, you can also copy to the HDD first for editing, if desired, then dub to DVD normally (HSD, RTD, DDub). Other units can't do this w/o adding a default date to the DVD title's line 2. Full procedure for copying is here.
  5. Reset clock and timer programs.
    After all dubbing and editing are done in the dateless condition, set date and time in Clock Setting menu and reset your timer rec programs.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

NOT Recommended - Dubbing Single Title HDD>DVD thru Title Menu

This method of dubbing [from Title menu] is not recommended cuz it starts automatically, w/o a menu, so it doesn't allow ANY operator control compared to the "Single/Multiple Title" dubbing described above. Once it starts, all by itself, your dub will be in high-speed if there's enough room left on the DVD, but it'll be in a lower-quality rec mode if not... and you can't change your mind w/o ruining a DVD±R. If you don't care if you get a high-speed or real-time dub, this procedure is for you!

If you start this dub with not enough time remaining on the DVD, and it shifts to a lower-quality rec mode, that will be the rec mode used even tho the title on disc will show the ORIGINAL rec mode in its title. You can tell what rec mode was actually used for the dub if, right after dubbing, you look in the top right of the DVD menu and read the rec mode. THAT's the rec mode of the dub AND the new DEFAULT rec mode for both DVD and HDD.

You'll know if the machine started a HSD or a RTD by what shows on the TV screen during dubbing: HSD = live TV and ability to change channels, RTD = only the title being dubbed and no channel changes.

Be careful with this method of dubbing, for many reasons.

The procedure is as follows:


  1. Load a blank DVD±R for archiving or giving to others, or a DVD±RW disc for temporary use and erase... it'll load in background while you prep. the dub title on the HDD.
  2. Select HDD drive, then press HDD TITLE button.
  3. Select the single title to be dubbed and click OK.
  4. Select Edit > Edit Title Name, and enter a custom title that describes contents, as described here.
  5. Since DVDs use the 1st frame of a title for its still frame index pic, make sure the beginning of your title has a "good" 1st frame that identifies the content. You can get a good first frame by: (1) doing a "Front-Cut" as described here, or (2) once the title is on DVD, you can select ANY frame for the index pic (can't do it on HDD).
  6. Press BACK/RETURN to get out of menus to TV pic.
  7. In the HDD Title menu again, select the title to be dubbed and press OK.
  8. Select the Dubbing option and answer Yes. The dub will proceed at High speed IF all High-speed conditions are met, or at a real-time rec mode if not. It's a "crap-shoot" now... you've lost control of the dub settings and any opportunity to change your mind if you don't like the rec mode the machine selects for you. Thus, the "not recommended" comment in the heading.
  9. Use Disc Edit menu to Finalize the DVD if no more titles are to be added to that disc.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

NOT Recommended - Dubbing Single Title HDD>DVD with D.Dubbing

You can use the DIRECT DUBBING (DD) button to copy HDD titles, one at a time, to a DVD. However, this method is not as good as the "Recommended" method above. With the DD method, you won't have the same visibility and control, and it's one-title-at-a-time.

First, create custom title as described here. Load a DVD, start the HDD title playing, then press the DIRECT DUBBING button. The HDD title will be copied to DVD from the beginning of the title, no matter where you start the dub during playback. The dub will be made at High-speed if all normal conditions are met for a HS dub, and these may not be known in advance. No single SLP title can be longer than 4:59:59. IT'S BEST TO USE THE DUBBING MENU, which allows you to dub one or multiple titles in one op and gives you visibility in advance so you know and can control what will happen before you start the dub.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wabjxo /forum/post/12305300


I was originally impressed with the build quality of my first unit, compared...


So far, it's been an excellent unit equal to or better than my Pio 640 in many respects. The digital tuner alone has opened my eyes to how good TV should look, even tho I'm on analog cable. For that alone, it's worth a try for anyone looking to "upgrade" to digital SDTV now.


Be forewarned, however, when an analog-only person sees his/her first digital TV pic, they might develop an irresistable craving for a satellite or digital cable upgrade!
... analog-only cable feed!

"So far, it's been an excellent unit equal to or better than my Pio 640" -whoa, that kind of talk could get you shot around here!



Appreciate the reply. I'm definitely going to have to look into these further. I know a happy camper when I see one! It sounds like a really nice unit. I'm not a big fan of Phillips and pretty much just dismissed it offhand. But based on your posts, I'm gonna re-think this one. I'm on analog cable, but they're doing everything possible to push us remaining die hards off. (Love my ReplayTV's though, so I'm hanging on.)


Thanks again!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bron /forum/post/12331983


...It sounds like a really nice unit. I'm not a big fan of Phillips and pretty much just dismissed it offhand. But based on your posts, I'm gonna re-think this one...

FWIW, I like mine as much as wabjxo likes all of his.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·



 

Notes on Erroneous or Misleading National Reviews

 

I've seen some erroneous or misleading info lately written by national equipment reviewers. There are also MANY first-time user reviews that are horrendously inaccurate or dead-wrong! Here are just a few I've run across so far.
  1. It has only 12 timer rec slots

    This is still being listed in many web sites, even Philips', and is a carryover from previous models. It really has 36 slots. Most other Philips/Magnavox models have 12 slots... one example of how different this new breed is!


  2. It can't dub from DVD to HDD

    Huh? Is this a joke, or did the reviewer just try to rip off the Star Wars Trilogy? Either that or he didn't know the super-secret code words for copying finalized non-copy-protected DVD titles: "DIRECT DUBBING."


  3. It doesn't have a cable-QAM tuner cuz it's not mentioned in specs or advertising

    Very few recorders, if any, mention that they have a QAM tuner for cable channels, prob. cuz cablecos don't want you to know some of their channels can be tuned by a standalone consumer recorder, i.e., one they can't make any money on. Also, the mfgrs know that cablecos control the QAM channels and may illegally scramble them all, which the DVDR mfgrs can't control but would surely be the first to be blamed. Here's a post that shows this DVDR does have a QAM tuner and may be the ONLY DVDR that's had its QAM tuner field-tested on a "135-lane QAM freeway!"


  4. It can't record HDTV or pass HDTV thru its tuner

    No sh**, Sherlock!? It DOES pass HDTV thru its coax in/out loop , but this DVDR is and always has been an SDTV recorder...says so right on the box. Wherever did you get the idea that it could tune or record in native HDTV!? One reviewer spent several paragraphs bemoaning its non-HDTV capabilities! Oh, so sorry for being designed and built as an SDTV recorder, like ALL THE OTHERS IN NORTH AMERICA! You want to record in HDTV from OTA and cable TV to a standalone DVD unit you don't have to rent? MOVE TO JAPAN... and change your name to Sherlockanaka! A double


  5. Playback wraps around when deleting the end of a title

    MANY new users post on an editing "problem" that's caused by NO EXPLANATION in the manual. It explains how to make a Scene Delete from the midst of a title (a Mid-Cut), like a commercial, but they ignore the more-difficult Front- and End-Cuts people also need to make. On both ends of a title, you have to move to the first frame using only REW and to the last frame using only FF or PLAY. You'll see the end-cut mentioned most often with people complaining that playback wraps around to the beginning of a title when trying to delete the end and there's "no way to get back to the end"... that playback is not needed for an End-Cut and should be ignored! Full procedures for all edits are here.

  6. The 3575 remote is small and there aren't enough direct-entry buttons

    One reviewer, commenting on the 3575 remote, made the correct assessment that it and some of its buttons are a little small, but then went on to say it didn't have enough direct-entry buttons. OMG, I guess size IS deceiving... it has 47 buttons (2 on toggles)! My Pioneer 640 remote has 41 buttons (counting the center toggle as 4) and to get to the Timer Rec menu, the manual says: "Press HOME MENU, select Timer Recording, then Timer Recording." Huh? A sub-sub-sub menu for timer rec? At least my PhilMag remotes have a single, direct-entry button for that all-important DVDR function. I didn't realize how many direct-entry buttons this DVDR's remote had until I tried a Sony RM-VL600 universal remote people were touting. I couldn't find a LOGICAL or even CLOSELY NAMED button for 13 of the direct-entry buttons on my PhilMag remotes! My wife refused to use it after I told her she'd have to press "Sleep" to see the Disc Menu! It just proves the old adage: "Size doesn't matter, it's what you can fit in the available space that counts!"


  7. The Title button has a confusing name

    Well, uh, now I'm confused! What did he mean by "button"? Must have run out of writer/reviewers with recorder experience and called up a sub from their auto department!? I can hear it now: "Hey, Joe, I know you're still working on your Lexus review, but this little machine looks pretty simple. Just give it a try, OK? Besides, the Panasonic people tell me it's 'cheap Chinese junk' NOT Malaysia's finest like their machines, so it'll probably break while you're reviewing it!"


    Another reviewer had a similar problem except he couldn't read! He said he had to go into the Setup menu to see his recorded titles. Oh, wait, what's this button with the name "Title"!?

  8. S-Video input doesn't work on FOUR units in a row... or maybe SIX... or is it TEN!?
    One user posted that the 3576 had "Bad Build Quality" cuz he had to return FOUR units (posted on CircuitCity.com)... or SIX units (Buzzillions.com)... or could it be TEN units TOTAL... due to an inoperative S-Video input! He did say the setup instructions were "confusing." I really have to doubt there would be any OTHER person out there who wouldn't start thinking, "Could it be ME!?" Just in case, be aware that the default E1/L1 and E2/L2 inputs are set for "Video In" (Composite Y/W/R), so if you connect S-Video to an input, you have to change the Setup > Video > Video Input menu to "S-Video In"!


  9. Channel numbers have to be entered manually

    Well, here's another one of those that makes you laugh, then cry! This user said: "One issue is in selecting a DTV channel, the quick timeout value means that you have to quickly enter the number, which is very hard to do one handed. [Ed: What's your OTHER hand doing, huh!?] I am not sure of why they don't allow the use of the up/down left/right buttons when watching the TV, such as to select the channel. [Ed: Hmmm... OTHER hand... up/down... maybe just distracted!?] I suspect that they could have reduced the buttons if they had planned it better." More observant users will probably notice, right away, that it has a long, dedicated up/down rocker button with a "CH" between + and - symbols which should be obvious it has something to do with CHannels... like maybe scroll thru them up and down!? Oh, wait, I suppose some people COULD think the "CH" is for ordering "CHinese" food, but even then you'd think they'd just HAVE TO try the button and see what's on the menu?


  10. "Copying is very slow, even at realtime"

    Need to think about this one for awhile? ... more than a millisecond?

  11. No erase-all function

    "There is no erase-all and record to the same title functions, so you would have to manually marked each title for delete, very tedious. I believe it's made by a Chinese co with very rudimentary understanding of friendly user interface. Would not buy it, if I have known that it's just not up to snuff." Actually, there's an easy-access menu, SETUP > HDD Menu that has an option to "Delete All Titles." It's in English!


  12. It will only project your digital reception in 4:3 ratio and it records in 4:3 ratio

    Yet another case of operator error: not reading the manual or searching for setup instructions like "If you have a widescreen TV: Select 16:9 Wide in the procedure for setting TV Aspect. This is so good, I decided to include the entire review... I esp. like the ref. to not using "the new standard"... for what, incompetence!?


    "I did not see anywhere on the specs page for this item that the output is 4:3 ratio. If you enjoy using your wide-screen TV, do not purchase this product. It will only project your digital reception in 4:3 ratio and it records in 4:3 ratio. So much for modern technology! I don't understand why they would do this, knowing that the 4:3 TV's are thing of the past - you can't even purchase one today. If you don't mind watching tiny little screens - then go ahead. I have a new 46" wide screen TV and was very disappointed that they aren't using the new standard. My Panasonic DVD-RAM is apparently more sophisticated than Magnavox. I just thought it would be great to have a DVR. But not at the price of shrinking the screen. Back to the store it goes!"

There are so MANY "problem" reports that are understandable but frustrating newbie-operator-error, I had to stop reading them... the AVS servers are only so big! Even with these, aggregate user reviews are consistently 4 to 4-1/2 stars out of 5... PDG!


 

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bron /forum/post/12331983


I'm definitely going to have to look into these further. I know a happy camper when I see one! It sounds like a really nice unit.

The "Pause Live TV" feature is pretty neat.
 

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My 3575 is on its way from CC. Thanks for all the info here, just awesome.


I have SD cable that I found when I moved in my house last year (free!). It's only the basics, but does include the Disc. Ch. I plan to use the 3575 as the tuner on a 24" HD LCD computer screen. But, as I live in a metro area and should get all the networks via OTA digital broadcast, I definitely want to use the antenna. I only would use the cable for the DC, UPN and WGN. Will I be able to use both the antenna and the cable (without switching the input cable and rescanning)?


Also, will the ATSC tuner recieve all the additional digital broadcasts for a given station?


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·



Funai History


Forget everything you've been told or thought you knew about Philips and Magnavox standard-definition (SD) DVD recorders (DVDR). In 2007, Philips (designer) and Funai (manufacturer) introduced the first of EIGHT generations of nearly identical HDD/DVD recorders that represent a new and better breed: the DVDR3575H/37.


THE 3575 WAS THE ONLY RECORDER INTRODUCED IN N.A. IN 2007 WITH BOTH HARD DISK DRIVE (HDD) AND DIGITAL TUNERS TO COMPLY WITH U.S. RULES FOR THE DIGITAL TRANSITION. This "feat" didn't seem too big a deal until it won a CES 2008 Innovation Award!


Imagine that, Philips/Funai gaining notoriety (and envy) for being on the leading edge for once... and all by itself!


In Sep 2012, Funai introduced its 8th generation of HDD/DVD recorders: the MDR53x Series (533, 535, 537). Each gen gets better with each update... instead of being "swept into the trashbin of history by Panasonic" as predicted by a desperate and envious Panny super-fanboy in 2007! He's now rootin' around in that trashbin to see if he can find a rusty old Panasonic HDD recorder... you know, the ones they introduced in 2008 that swept the Philips away... right into the history book of Dynasties! He finally had to settle for a dusty-old Mag 515, a 7th Generation Funai HDD/DVD model introduced "way back" in 2010!

Philips owns the Magnavox brand name everywhere except Australia and licensed its use to Funai until 2017. As noted at the bottom of the Magnavox website , "MAGNAVOX is a registered trademark of Philips Electronics North America Corporation and is used by Funai Electric Co. Ltd. and Funai Corporation, Inc. under license from Philips Electronics North America Corporation."


Funai manufactures all of these HDD/DVD recorders in China. It has its own factory and supervisory personnel in China, where it currently produces the VAST majority of ALL DVDRs sold in North America under various brand names, including, but not limited to, Funai, Philips, Magnavox, and Toshiba.


A short profile of Funai here explains how it became one of Walmart's "Strategic Vendors" in 1999 after it delivered 1 million Emerson VCRs for a Walmart "Early Bird" promotion, and how Funai is "one of the few fully integrated operations capable of producing nearly all of the parts and components of its products in-house," which enhances its price advantage over competitors.


Another price advantage is Funai's Strategic Vendor status with Walmart and possibly others. Funai builds a bunch of units and the sellers buy them in shipping containers "on dock" in China, where Funai's factory is, so Funai has virtually no shipping, marketing or advertising cost. (I believe they think "marketing" has something to do with groceries?)

A Wiki profile:

Funai Electric is a Japanese consumer electronics company headquartered in Daitō, Osaka, Japan. The company was founded in 1961. It owns the subsidiary Funai Corporation, Inc., established in the United States since 1991, to market and maintain Funai-licensed brands such as Sylvania, Emerson Radio, Magnavox, Philips, Pye, and Symphonic. Funai is also the main OEM manufacturer providing assembled televisions and video players/recorders to major corporations such as Sharp, Toshiba, Denon, etc. Funai also manufactures printers for Dell and Lexmark, as well as digital cameras for Kodak.
 
The Walmart Influence
 
Walmart (WM) is a huge influence on what Funai does since, in FY2012, WM represented ~49% of Funai's GLOBAL sales and ~74% of N.A. sales!

 

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4 Posts
Thanks, that's what I'll do. I'm sure I will also try the antenna just because I'm curious if there will be a difference in PQ. I was thinking the OTA would be better due to digital broadcast, but after reading some of this thread, that doesn't necessarily seem to be the case. I know the clarity on my SD TV is outstanding with the cable...


Unfortunately, my LCD doesn't ship until 12/12, so I won't be able to utilize the Phillips for a week or so. I guess I could hook it up to my SD TV just to learn the controls/settings etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·



Major Difference Between the PhilMag DVDR Models... Basic Features

Jump To:
Major Difference Between DVDR Models
Special Notes on the Mag 2080
Pictures
Tuning and Viewing Channels
Recording
Playback
Dubbing
Editing

Major Differences Between DVDR Models


These are SIMPLE DVDRs for reliable daily RECORDING by normal people. They're not for Gearheads (too simple), single-discers (no discs reqd), TVGOS lovers (no love here), HDTV elitists (SDTV only)... but they ARE perfect for Joe the Plumber and me!


Following is a comparison of the "noteworthy" features of the different models:

 

 
ItemPhilips 3575/3576Mag 2160, 2160A, MDR513515
Color3575 Black/Silver, 3576 BlackBlackBlack
HDD160GB PATA160GB PATA (2160), 160GB SATA (2160A), 320GB SATA500GB SATA
Rec Hours33-19833-198 (2160/A), 66-398 (513)103-620
MenusBlack on light greyRev. white on dark bkgndSame as 513
Remote47 buttons, key ones diff. sizes for "feelability"47 buttons all same size, see DigaDo's pic here (L-R=3576/2080/2160)Best yet, larger buttons, better layout and use of space
FP ButtonsOn/Off, Tray Open/Close, Play, Stop, Rec, HDD Active LEDAdds ch. up/dn & HDD/DVD buttons but no HDD LEDSame as 513
Back InputsCoax, YWR Composite, S-VidCoax, YWR Composite, S-VidSame
Front InputsYWR Composite, USB, DVYWR Composite, DV, 2nd S-Vid (no USB)Same as 513
Dig. AudioCoax and opticalCoax (no optical)Same as 513
Dig. SS MeterNoYesYes
Dig. CCDisplay but no recordDisplay only or display and record (embedded in video)Same as 513
PLTVPause/play from pause point on but no save to HDD6-hour constant bkgrd buffer for fwd play/rew w/save to HDDSame as 513
AutoClockSearches only analog channelsSearches analog and digital channelsSame as 513
STOP ButtonDouble-press can accidentally Stop recHold Stop 2 sec + Yes/No dialog in 2160A/513Same as 513
MP3 PlayYes on CD-R/RWYes on CD-R/RW, but 2160A/513 add MP3 on DVDSame as 513
DivX/WMA PlayYesNoNo
EditingDivide, Delete, Chapter, Index Pic (DVD), Title NamingSame, adds chapter bar to time counter for graphic positional awarnessSame as 513
Dubbing4X burner, HSD ~34 min. for 2-hr-SP8X burner, HSD ~17 min for 2-hr-SPSame as 513
DubbingCan add 18 titles to dub list w/no visual clues as to which titles have been addedSame 18 titles, but 2160A/513 add checkmark to index pics of titles already addedSame as 513
HDMI ControlNoNo (2160), Yes (2160A/513)Yes
Empty Title on DVDsYesYesChanged to "Empty Space"
Auto-Preview on End-CutYesYesNo
Double "Are you sure?" dialogsYesYesNo
Titling of timer rec programs that transfers to HDD titleNoNoYes
Skip timer programNoNoYes
1-hour power backupNoNoYes
 

 

 

*HDD and DVD drives can be easily replaced, and HDD can be upgraded to 500GB capacity and externalized in a "dock-and-play" HDD farm, as shown here . SATA can be sub'd for 2080/357x PATA HDD using an IDE-SATA adapter. DVD drive is available from Funai for $68.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Special Notes on the Mag 2080


The Magnavox H2080MW8, released in 2007, is the predecessor to the 2160. Virtually same manual and ops as the 3576 but sucky remote. Better-designed 2160 remote can be used. One original HDD installed is ST380215ACE, same Seagate HDD model series as 3576, and it can be replaced or upgraded in the same way as the 3576/2160.


The following features are missing on the 2080:


1. No HDMI out.

2. No DV input.

3. No digital clock set (assuming, since it pre-dates 3576)?

4. No digital CC recording.

5. No Autorecord buffering.

6. Not sure on STOP button requiring 2-sec press to stop a timer rec?


The 80GB HDD in the 2080 can be easily upgraded to a max. 500GB, as described here. The 2080 has the same power supply as the 3575/3576 and the 2160.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Pictures

Philips DVDR3575H/37 (2007)


Philips DVDR3576H/37 (2008)


Magnavox H2160MW9 (2008), H2160MW9A (2009), MDR513H (2010)


Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Tuning and Viewing TV Channels

 
  • Standard-definition (SDTV) Analog NTSC and Digital ATSC/QAM Tuners: The tuner in this DVDR (three virtually identical units) can pick up any unscrambled channels you can receive via antenna (OTA) or a cable feed and present it on your TV in standard definition (SD). The analog NTSC tuner has the standard CATV channels 1-125. The digital ATSC/QAM tuner has channels 1-135 for both OTA (ATSC) and cable clear-QAM* (Quadrature Amplitude Modulation) signals. The digital/analog tuners are selected via a DTV/TV button. (Satellite subscribers need a proprietary receiver to tune their sat-delivered signals, so the standard DVDR or TV can't tune those signals independently.) See this help file for more info on tuning channels with this DVDR and their relationship to OTA and QAM channel numbers.
  • Coax and Line Input Amplification: This DVDR has an active coax passthru that serves as a built-in signal splitter and slightly "boosts" (amplifies) the raw incoming signal. Passes SDTV AND HDTV thru to STB and TV (downconverts to 480i thru tuner). It can provide a ~20% improvement in your TV pic with this DVDR on or off, doesn't matter. It also amplifies its line inputs, like from a VCR or STB, when on.


    *QAM is not listed or promoted in the literature on DVDRs prob. cuz the cablecos really don't want people to know they can receive unscrambled digital channels in their basic analog cable subscriptions. Also, cablecos are fond of MOVING their QAM channels around regularly and using other tricks to force you to rent their STBs on a monthly basis. DVDR mfgrs are prob. senstitive to this and may not want users complaining to THEM every time cablecos play "hide-the-channel" games. See this post for a test of the 3576 for potential use in a Los Angeles city emergency response system, where it had to tune all 135 digital channels in its QAM tuner from a "mixed-bag" of sources.

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck44 /forum/post/12332257


FWIW, I like mine as much as wabjxo likes all of his.

Thanks! I'm definitely looking into this unit. A real surprise. Another good example of why it never hurts to hang on the forums.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wabjxo /forum/post/12332968

Some Notes on Erroneous or Misleading National Reviews


I've seen some erroneous or misleading info lately in some national reviews. Here are a few I've run across so far.

2. The 3575 can't record HDTV or pass HDTV thru it's tuner. No sh**, Sherlock!? The 3575 is and always has been an SDTV recorder...says so right on the box. Wherever did you get the idea that it could tune or record in native HDTV!? One reviewer spent several paragraphs demoaning its non-HDTV capabilities! Oh, so sorry for being designed and built as an SDTV recorder, like ALL THE OTHERS IN NORTH AMERICA! You want to tune and record in HDTV to a standalone unit you don't have to rent? MOVE TO JAPAN... and change your name to Sherlockanaka! A double
!

Yeah, re: #2, some of these guys don't seem to know the difference between a HD DVR and a SD DVD recorder - most especially when it's a SD DVD recorder with a HDD. I wonder if they criticize the HD DVR's for not recording HD to DVD?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rammitinski /forum/post/12335902


The "Pause Live TV" feature is pretty neat.

Yes, it is, but as someone with 5 ReplayTV units, 1 of which is the old 3060 from *so* many years back, that's old news to me. [One of my RTV units can "pause" live TV for a week!]



I love my HDD DVD recorders, but they can't hold a candle to a ReplayTV unit for convenience, ease of use, and over-all functionality as far as TV viewing and recording. In fact, I have two of my DVD recorders paired with RTV units for just that reason. The RTV is much more reliable when it comes to recording TV shows. For example. If a show runs at 6 PM for 1 hour and you set it to record and the show runs at 7 instead, it will still record it. Another example, you can say "Record the TV show "The UNIT" whenever it airs on any channel at any time. Or any show starring Jessica Alba. Or any show with the word 'Zombie' in the title or description. With my networked replay tv's if there is a recording conflict (i.e. 2 shows overlap, for example), it will record one on the other unit. And so on and so on.


My dream machine would be a solid HDD DVD recorder with the RTV software and guide service. Well, and maybe high def recording since I'm dreaming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Hardware Replacement & Upgrade

Jump To:

THE SKIP CODES
Using the SKIP Codes (INSTRUCTIONS)
SKIP 079 - HDD/DVD Self-Check & Initialize/Format (plus Power-On Hours)
SKIP 013 - HDD Factory Check... Warning: Wipes Recorded Titles!

UPFRONT ADVICE ON HDD UPGRADE
READ THIS FIRST!
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs
Low-Power WD SATA HDDs

HDD PIONEERS & PROCEDURES
Internal HDD Upgrades
External DOCK-AND-PLAY System
Plug-and-Play with Single External HDD
2.5-inch Laptop Systems

HDD REF. TABLES
Researching and Selecting HDD Model
FW-Usable HDD Capacities (~Hours)
Table I. OEM HDD for 357x/2080
Table II. OEM HDD for 2160 (OK for 357x/2080, But NOT 2160A/513/515)
Table III. OEM HDD for 2160A (OK for 513/515) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table IV. OEM HDD for 513 (OK for 2160A/515) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table V. OEM HDD for 515 (OK for 2160A/513) (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-1. Alternate Hitachi "HCS-GLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-2. Alternate Hitachi "HDS-CLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)
Table A-3. Alternate Seagate "ST-AS" HDD for 2160A/513/515 (OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)

REPLACING OR REPAIRING PARTS
Getting Inside & Removing HDD/DVD... PRECAUTIONS!
Order Parts & Service Manual
Replace DVD Burner
Replace Main Fuse
Replace Fan
Replace SATA Adapter
Open Stuck DVD Tray
Clean DVD Spindle

OTHER INTERESTING STUFF
Power Supply
Expected Component Life & Actual Usage Stats

Using the SKIP Codes (INSTRUCTIONS)

Following are the SKIP/V.SKIP codes and instructions for troubleshooting the HDD/DVD, formatting an existing or new HDD, and providing system info.

With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the designated SKIP ### or V.SKIP ### buttons on the remote all within 3 sec. Press normally and don't hold any down... fast but not so fast you hit a wrong key. There are no other characters required, like dashes (in case someone posts the code with such characters).

For the nitpickers among us (you know who you are): The 3575 and 3576 have a SKIP button but the 2080 and 2160 have a V.SKIP button... same thing. I may have used "SKIP" here inadvertently... or on purpose just to piss you off! :p

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

SKIP 079 - HDD/DVD Self-Check and Initialize/Format

The SKIP 079 procedure operates in two sequential steps: (1) an automated HDD/DVD Self-Check, then (2) an HDD/DVD Initialize/Format IF you click OK.

*****************************
STEP 1 - HDD/DVD SELF-CHECK & POWER-ON HOURS
*****************************
This is a simple automated check of HDD and DVD cables and communication, to check for a loose or disconnected cable, which can be one cause for HDD errors or stuttering, a tray that won't open, a "Loading" message that never ends, "playback error" messages, etc. Here's one user's tale of annoying playback errors for 5 months. He finally opened his case and found the DVD cable almost disconnected (it fell off when he turned DVD drive over).

Self-Check Procedure: With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the SKIP 079 buttons, all within 3 sec. This brings up the SELF-CHECK screen shown below and starts an automated self-check, filling in the status of the items it checks.

The "OK" results and HDD POWER ON HOURS should be "immediate"... no delays. For laser diode usage, use SKIP 321.

To exit the Self-Check, simply turn the unit OFF by pressing the Standby/On (power) button... DO NOT PRESS OK unless you intend to format the HDD and "wipe it clean."



Following are the Items checked and their status Indications, Descriptions, and possible Remedies:

ITEM|INDICATION|DESCRIPTION|REMEDY
DVD CONNECT STATUS:|OK|Connection of DVD is normal|N/A
|NOT FOUND|DVD drive dead or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
|CABLE ERROR|Ribbon/FFC cable from underside of DVD drive to DVD/HDD PCB is loose or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
HDD CONNECT STATUS:|OK|Connection of HDD is normal|N/A
|NOT FOUND|HDD dead or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
|CABLE ERROR|Ribbon/FFC cable between HDD drive and PCB is loose or not connected|Open case & check ribbon/FFC cable (see disassy sketches here)
HDD POWER ON HOURS:|####|Total hours machine ON time. (For laser diode usage, use SKIP 321. )|N/A
HDD FORMAT START:|ENTER|Actually "OK" but DON'T PRESS OK UNLESS YOU INTEND TO FORMAT THE HDD AND "WIPE IT CLEAN."|N/A
POWER OFF:|POWER|Press Standby/On button to exit Self-Check|N/A

*******************************
STEP 2 - HDD/DVD INITIALIZE/FORMAT
*******************************
After a Self-Check has been completed, press the OK button instead of Standby/On if you want to Initialize (make-ready, or "format") an existing or new HDD.

PRESSING OK ON THE SELF-CHECK SCREEN FORMATS THE HDD. YOU WILL LOSE ANY RECORDED TITLES, CLOCK AND TIMER REC PROGRAMS!

"Formatting" is used extensively here even tho the actual operation is "Initializing," which deletes any file info (addressing info) from an existing drive so it appears empty. A brand new, never recorded HDD doesn't have any addressing info to delete, so it's an almost instantaneous process.

Time to Initialize/format a NEW drive is just a sec or so, maybe slightly longer for an existing drive with files on it.

After HDD/DVD formatting, another SELF-CHECK screen appears and the DVDR automatically turns off within 2 sec.

If installing a new/upgrade HDD and you don't see any sign of the HDD in the menus, etc., don't panic, just RECORD something (anything) to the new HDD to activate it and its menu system... select HDD drive and press REC, then STOP after ~10 sec of recording (wait till red REC dot disappears from screen). You MAY also need to start setup from scratch, but the machine will let you know that after powering up.

The HDD FW is contained in a non-volatile memory chip on the HDD/DVD PCB (CBA), providing operating instructions to any attached HDD, which makes each HDD portable from machine to machine, whether Philips or Magnavox, regardless of machine SN, i.e., they are not tied to a specific machine, as some are in the HDTV DVR world.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

SKIP 013 - HDD Factory Check... Warning: Wipes Recorded Titles!

WARNINGS:
  1. Do not use this test on a new replacement or upgrade HDD. Use SKIP 079 Steps 1 and 2 instead. This test clears all data on a used HDD, including all titles! Clock, settings and timer rec programs remain intact (cuz they're not on the HDD).

  2. Pressing SKIP 013 IMMEDIATELY activates the HDD Factory Check, with front panel counting elapsed time and wild display at end and TV pic/sound skipping at regular interval, maybe designed as a visual/audible indicator that the test is done?

  3. Read the description below first and make sure you want/need to do this procedure. Allow at least 1-hour w/no timer programs due to start. Pull power plug to exit.
Operational symptoms of an HDD that might benefit from the SKIP/V.SKIP 013 procedure include skipping/freezing on HDD playback, inability to initialize the HDD with SKIP/V.SKIP 079, inability to Pause manual recording and change channels while paused, etc.

This is really just a check to verify whether or not you have a bad HDD and might need a replacement or upgrade. It can be useful, for example, after you've had a lightning strike nearby or power-loss while recording that you suspect may have damaged the HDD.

To troubleshoot suspected HDD problems, use the SKIP/V.SKIP 079 Self-Check first to make sure there aren't any loose or disconnected cables or the HDD isn't stone-dead.

Then, for a more in-depth HDD check, use SKIP/V.SKIP 013, which checks the HDD's internal components that we can't fix, like disc media, system and heads. The items it checks will show either OK or NG (No Good).

If anything checks NG, then the RESULT will be NG and you may need a HDD replacement. Things can still work with a NG result... my 3575 refurb does... but the HDD might freeze during playback at certain spots on the HDD (like mine) or exhibit other "odd" bahavior (like twice as long to spin up and show opening menu).

Items checked are the following:

HDD MEDIA READ VERIFY CHECK:|OK/NG|If OK, takes ~39 min. on 2160's or ~44 min. on 357x 160GB HDD. If NG, scan stops at bad spot and moves on to next test. THIS OP DELETES ALL RECORDED TITLES!
SYSTEM AREA CHECK:|OK/NG|Quick!
HDD FORMAT:|OK/NG|Quick!
HDD HEAD CHECK:|OK/NG|Takes 1-2 min.
HDD HEAD ESCAPE:|OK/NG|Quick!

RESULT:|OK/NG|41-46 min. to final result on 160GB HDD (longer on larger drives). If any item NG, this will be NG. Pull power plug to exit.
  • Note 1: Unknown if any differences or special precautions with non-OEM PATA or alternate SATA HDDs. Theoretically, should be none? Still need someone to test a 2160A's SATA HDD and report "MEDIA READ" time.
  • Note 2: Unknown effect of timer rec program scheduled to start during this process. Probably doesn't start since HDD is busy with a system test? Best to have 1 hour or more before next timer program start for a 160GB HDD, longer for larger drives.
Go back to list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

UPFRONT ADVICE ON HDD UPGRADE
READ THIS FIRST!


Some important info you'll need to know:
  1. DVDR Warranty: Opening your unit and mucking around inside will void any warranty you might have.

  2. OEM HDD/System Types: The 3575/3576/2080/2160 are PATA-based units and came with IDE/PATA HDDs (Parallel ATA, or Advanced Technology Attachment). IDE and ATA are technically the same, just tradenames of diff. mfgrs. These DVDRs are plug-and-play if installing another PATA HDD. They can also use the newer Serial ATA (SATA) HDDs by adding an IDE/SATA Adapter to connect the smaller SATA drive connector to the 40-pin PATA PCB connector in those DVDR's. The Adapter used by Auskck and many others is here.

    The 2160A/513/515 are SATA-based, a newer Serial ATA standard. They already have a SATA HDD, so it's just plug-and-play if using another SATA drive... no adapter needed.

  3. Jumper Setting: Odds are your new HDD should be set correctly for use in this DVDR, esp. with SATA HDDs where jumpers are only for enterprise use (servers, etc). If you install and format and it appears not to work, only then should you need to check for a jumper and its setting. If needed, here's WD's info on jumper setting, and here's Seagate's info. (Hitachi HDD division was bought by WD in March 2011.)

  4. Formatting: The SKIP 079 procedure described above will Self-Check and Initialize (make-ready) an existing or new HDD. On an existing HDD, this "deletes" timer programs and recorded titles (removes "pointers" to those files). After Initializing, you should RECORD live TV (anything) to the HDD to activate it and its menu system... select HDD drive and press REC, then STOP after ~10 sec of recording (wait till red REC dot disappears from screen). You MAY also need to start setup from scratch, like a new unit right out of the box.

  5. Orientation: There is no rightside up or upside down with HDDs. They have heads on top and bottom of platters, so some are always upside down. To facilitate fit, esp. with a SATA adapter, install either way, as appropriate. See Seagate note on this.

    While a HDD can be sideways or upside down, THE DVD DRIVE CAN'T! Please don't operate your DVDR in a vertical (sideways) position. Horizontal and top up only! ... And you thought this was obvious, didn't you? Think again!:D

  6. Rotational speed: You can use any of the normal HDD speeds (5200-7200) since it makes no diff. in our simple DVDRs. In fact, the original 3575 came with a 7200rpm Seagate, but the latest and greatest 515 comes with a 5700rpm Hitachi CinemaStar.

  7. Sector format: Stick with drives that are designed with a sector format of 512 bytes/sector. New, "advanced" format drives are becoming available but PeterTheGeek, who has been studying the inner workings of our HDDs, recommends the "old" faithful: 512 sector format.

  8. Ribbon Cables: For an internal PATA>PATA or SATA>SATA HDD replacement or upgrade, you don't need to remove any of the thin ribbon cables from the green HDD adapter board or from the PCBs. Just remove the adapter board with its cable still attached from the end of the HDD. Dartman's adapter was in so tight he needed a small screwdriver to carefully pry on each end, in very small increments, to work the adapter loose, then it was easily removable by hand... no "rocking" side to side (to prevent smearing of the thin conductors and creating an electrical contact path between them.)

    For external upgrades where you have to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable, like a PATA>SATA conversion, you need to carefully unlock the small clamshell lock on the end of the ribbon cable in the green adapter board on the HDD, then remove the cable from the board; pull straight out WITHOUT rocking it side-to-side. Reinstall the ribbon cable straight in, also WITHOUT rocking.

    See this post and pics by DigaDo for views of a PATA adapter w/ribbon cable and black clamshell lock installed in a PATA drive. A SATA adapter in a SATA drive should look about the same.

    See this short post on ribbon cable tips, esp. if you end up with a HDD the machine can't find.

  9. SATA Adapter: The 2160A.513/515 have SATA HDDs so they already have a SATA Adapter to connect the HDD to the PCB op. data cable. They also have a SATA-type connector for the HDD power cable. The other models all have IDE-PATA HDDs and a diff. type of power cable/connector. Our Pioneers have been using 3rd-party IDE-SATA Adapters, primarily this one (~$14), to convert their units to SATA HDDs. One "handyman" bought the OEM SATA Adapter from Funai (~$12) and added a connector for the SATA power cables as described and pictured here.

  10. SATA Cables: Most SATA cable connectors also have a clip that secures the cable to the SATA device. These clips may be metal or plastic, and the plastic clips are more easily breakable. Look for a clip on the underside of the connector and carefully lift it up before pulling a SATA cable. See typical cable here.

  11. Power Specs: When looking for a replacement or upgraded drive, try to stay as close as possible to the power specs (W) of the original OEM DRIVE (160, 320 or 500GB), as listed in the HDD Tables below. We know the designers picked each unit's HDD to operate efficiently at the designated power (W) levels. Based on the typ. OEM HDD OpW spec of 6.4 and on actual experience of our Pioneer upgraders* with higher OpW HDDs, my recommendation is to stay within 30% of the OEM spec, or no more than 8.3 OpW. See the Power Supply section below for more info.
    *Some examples: two upgrade Pioneers have used an 8.77W/8.40W Op/Idle drive in their 3575's, one in Mar 2009 and one in Feb 2010, both with no ill effects.

  12. Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.
Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

Info on all Hitachi Internal HDDs.

Some boo-birds might deride Deskstars by mentioning they used to be called "Deathstars" but that was in the days that IBM made them (1994-2003). Hitachi bought IBM's HDD division in 2003, so IBM "Deathstars" might have been sold for a time after 2003 as sellers cleaned out existing stock. If you get a Deskstar with mfg date between 1994 and 2003, you prob. have one of the IBM "Deathstars" and should return it?

An interesting section of a Wiki article on HDD "Disk Failures and their metrics" caught my attention as it relates to the OEM Hitachi HDDs used in the Mag 2160, 2160A and 515:

"A 2007 study published by Google suggested very little correlation between failure rates and either high temperature or activity level; however, the correlation between manufacturer/model and failure rate was relatively strong. Statistics in this matter is (sic) kept highly secret by most entities. Google did not publish the manufacturer's names along with their respective failure rates, though they have since revealed that they use Hitachi Deskstar drives in some of their servers."

Google has mfgr-related statistics they won't reveal on HDD failure rates, but they DID choose to reveal that they use Hitachi Deskstars in their servers... hmmmmm!?

Backblaze, a company that mfgrs storage pods, also favors Hitachi drives. As they say here:

"We are constantly looking at new hard drives, evaluating them for reliability and power consumption. The Hitachi 3TB drive (Hitachi Deskstar 5K3000 HDS5C3030ALA630) is our current favorite for both its low power demand and astounding reliability. The Western Digital and Seagate equivalents we tested saw much higher rates of popping out of RAID arrays and drive failure. Even the Western Digital Enterprise Hard Drives had the same high failure rates. The Hitachi drives, on the other hand, perform wonderfully."

UPDATE: On 3/7/11, Western Digital bought Hitachi's Global Storage Technologies unit.
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Low-Power WD SATA HDDs

See this post for info on some Western Digital (WD) drives that are low-power alternatives to the original OEM drives or Alternates listed in the tables below.

Please note that, in your analysis of HDD power reqmts, IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160/2160A/513/515 since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW or read/writeW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence for them. However, IdleW is very important for the 3575/3576 since they're idling a lot.

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Internal HDD Upgrades

Following are A FEW of the Pioneers who upgraded their internal HDD... I stopped adding people since the concept of "Pioneers" has long since been made irrelevant. External upgrades are in next subject.

Click on a Pioneer's name to bring up the Private Message (PM) menu for asking questions directly and privately. Just be aware that some Members are not always available/online and may not respond. If so, just click the "Post Reply" button at top or bottom of this page, ask question or make comment, and other currently active members will be happy to help.

The Pioneers in RED have written STEP-BY-STEP procedures.
The other Pioneers didn't write step-by-step procedures but they still provide info on HDD used and other tips.

1. DARTMAN... 1/18/09... 3575... 250GB WD Caviar Blue PATA.
He used a drive he had used externally on a different DVDR. It's the same basic "type" of drive with power specs close to the Seagate 250GB PATA drive. His post on his successful upgrade is here. He's been running it to check for any long-term operating effects and has found none so far, just an increased HDD capacity at 2-hr-SP rec mode from 66 to 105 hours.

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2. DIGADO... 3/21/09... 2080... 160GB Seagate ST3160215 ACE PATA (Table I below).
This doubled his 2-hr-SP rec mode capacity from 33 to 66 hrs, as described here. A ton of pics here. No long-term operating effects expected here since a Seagate 80GB drive is an alternative found in the 2080 and it has same op specs as the larger Seagate 160GB he used.

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3. AUSKCK... 3/25/09... 3575... 500GB WD Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKB PATA.
This drive increased his 2-hr-SP rec mode capacity from 66 to 211 hrs, as described here. No long-term adverse effects to date.
This WD drive uses 8.77W Op, 8.40W Standby. If concerned about power but really like WD drives, see this list of lower-power WD SATA drives, which would require the IDE/SATA adapter others have used for the 3575/3576/2080/2160, but not needed for the 2160A.

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4. AUSKCK... 3/27/09... 3575... 500GB Hitachi 3.5" Deskstar P7K500 HDP725050GLA360 (0A35415) SATA and 500GB Hitachi 2.5" Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915) SATA.
He sequentially upgraded to 3.5" 500GB SATA, 3.5" 1TB SATA (which formatted to 500GB so he removed), and 2.5" 500GB SATA, all using a SATAIDE-2 Adapter. SATA drives are the newest technology, quickly replacing the older PATA technology so they're widely available. Raunch had previously installed a 750GB PATA drive and the FW only allowed 500GB capacity. Auskck found the same with his 1TB SATA, so he now has the 500GB SATA installed for long-term testing. He describes his 500GB SATA replacement procedure here, plus his use of a Hitachi Travelstar 2.5" Notebook Drive 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300, and his preliminary work on an external "Dock-and-Play" system, which is fully described in the "dock-and-play" section below.

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5. MREEDELP... 2009... 4 ea. 3576 and 3 ea. 2160... 500GB PATA.
He has 12 units: 7 Philips 3576's and 5 Mag 2160's. He upgraded to 3.5" 500GB HDDs in 4 Philips and 3 Mags. He describes how he uses all 12 units here.

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6. TI-TRIODES... 6/4/09... 3575... 500GB Seagate ST3500830ACE PATA.
Besides dramatically increased capacity, he says he now gets a "markedly sharper" picture than before. He describes his installation here, and he updates his experience here.

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7. BORDERSHY... 7/28/09... 2080... 250GB Maxtor DiamondMax 10 PATA.
He replaced orig. 80GB PATA with a 4.5-year-old 3.5" Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250GB 16MB/7200RPM PATA. This tripled his HDD storage capacity, as described here

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8. ALITIN... 8/9/09... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for 2160A are listed in Table III.) His procedure is described here.

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9. BODHI78... 10/11/09... 2160... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLAT380 PATA.
He describes this upgrade here.

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10. SAM ONTARIO... 11/8/09... 2160A... 640GB WD Caviar Green WD6400AACS SATA.
See series of posts with not a lot of details, starting here... and ending here. He originally thought it didn't "take" but learned from some early Pioneers that you have to REC something to a new HDD after a SKIP 079 initializing to activate the HDD and add the menu structure, etc. This upgrade also finally determined that the 2160A's FW DOES limit a HDD upgrade to 500GB, since he got 413 EP hours for his new 640GB drive, which is the expected EP capacity for a 500GB drive.

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11. BUSEY... 11/12/09... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi Deskstar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for the 2160A are listed in Table III.) Click here for excellent, step-by-step instructions.

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12. PAINTMODEL... 1/3/10... 3575... 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS.
This is the drive listed in Table A-3 below. He reports a noticeably better pic with the unpgraded HDD. He has some notes and recommendations here.

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13. JOEKUSTRA... 2/5/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi DeskStar HDP725050GLA360 SATA.
This is the alternate drive listed in Table A-1 below. (Direct replacement HDDs for the 2160A are listed in Table III.) Click here for his upgrade procedure, INCLUDING SOME IMPORTANT NOTES ON HDD REMOVAL. Note his workarounds for some things YOU may also run into during HDD removal.

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14. NOEND7... 2/12/10... 3575... 500GB WD Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKB PATA.
This is the same drive used by Auskck in his first upgrade. He has some SPECIAL NOTES on things he ran into that should help others with their upgrades here.
This WD drive uses 8.77W Op, 8.40W Standby. If concerned about power but like WD drives, see this list of lower-power WD SATA drives, which would require the IDE/SATA adapter others have used for the 3575/3576/2080/2160, but not needed for the 2160A.

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15. MICKINCT... 5/16/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
He bought this drive from NewEgg.com for $39.95.

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16. GMACTED... June 2010... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
He replaced orig. 160GB SATA with a Hitachi 7K1000.C SATA II.[/B] He states that it has performed "flawlessly" so far.

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17. BODHI78... 6/25/10... 2160A... 500GB Hitachi 7K1000.C Series SATA II DeskStar HDS721050CLA362.
After upgrading his original 2160 to a 500GB DeskStar PATA on 10/11/09, he upgraded again to a 500GB DeskStar SATA, same as MICKINCT above. His step-by-step procedure is described here.

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18. TI-TRIODES... 7/5/10... 2080... 3.5" 500GB PATA AND 2.5" 500GB Hitachi Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915) SATA.
Upgraded two units. He was able to secure the smaller 2.5" drive with one screw in the 3.5" mounting bracket, which served as a good ground, and some double-sided tape, as he describes here.

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19. PETERTHEGEEK... 8/28/10... 2160A... 500GB 2.5" WD AV-25 WD5000BUDT SATA.
This WD drive is optimized for 24/7 ops, HD video and low power. He was able to secure the smaller drive with TWO screws in the 3.5" mounting bracket, as he describes here.

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20. ABULA... 8/29/10... 2160A... 500GB Samsung HD502HI SATA.
These appear to be phasing out, he got his for $38. He describes his upgrade here.

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External Dock-and-Play System

AUSKCK... 4/27/09... 3575 and 3576... FIRST Dual-Unit Dock-and-Play System with PATA>SATA Conversion

One user, dfw515, has THREE DVDRs externalized... two 3575's and one 515. However, he used all different parts than Auskck, including the Thermaltake BlacX ST0005U dock mentioned below.

However, the king of externalizing so far might be PeteMI with EIGHT external HDDs but he hasn't offered any details of his setup, procedures, parts used, etc.
Auskck's initial post on dock-and-play system. ... Pics of his system in test and finished
First external dock-and-play system with "Toaster" (external docking station) for his PATA-based Philips 3575 and 3576, replacing the internal HDDs with 5 external, portable, swappable SATA HDDs. If you have a SATA-based model (2160A/513/515), you don't need the "IDE/SATA adapter" mentioned there.

Auskck's update on his dock-and-play system. He links back to his initial post so, again, if you have a SATA-based model (2160A/513/515), you don't need the "IDE/SATA adapter" mentioned there.

Pic of Auskck's Setup 8/3/09 - 1st External Dock-and-Play System, PATA>SATA Conversion of 3575 and 3576
| Stacked only for pic purposes . YOUR enclosure and dock can be anywhere that's cable-length from DVDR. Enclosure provides power to dock, which connects to an eSATA cable coming from the DVDR. Cables never need to be disconnected or reconnected for daily ops or switching HDDs!

Some docking stations for both 2.5" and 3.5" drives are shown here. So far, these DVDRs don't seem to be "fussy" about which kind and brand of dock is used. Two people, dfw515 and PeterTheGeek, use this Thermaltake BlacX ST0005U dock.

Auskck's writeups don't give a detailed step-by-step procedure all in one place, but Scottypa wrote a VERY detailed procedure for his 2160A externalization described in next section below... same basic procedure for the inside work but diff. connectors and cables, single enclosure, and NO docking station. Scottypa "nibbled" a piece out of the top edge of case on back to run the external cable.

gm2040 used Scottypa's procedural steps as a guide but cut 3 louvers in the intake air vent on the side and bent them back for his external cable. He added a rubber grommet to protect the cable. Pics of his single-enclosure no-dock mod is here.

Better yet: PeterTheGeek found and tested a SATA Male 22-pin to eSATA 7-pin PANEL MOUNT that fits perfectly on the SATA connector already on the HDD in the 2160A/513/515. A similar connector might be found for the PATA models? His post is here, and below is a pic of the connector he used:

Panel End (mount on back panel)​
|
PCB End (plug into SATA PCB)​

General Info

These DVDRs allow recording, storage, and playback with multiple external "dock-and-play" HDDs, making these DVDRs more versatile than any other SDTV recorder in N.A., and even some HDTV DVRs.

This is the way to go for a "HDD farm" if a user has multiple HDDs he/she wants to swap out on a "regular" basis since you don't have to fool with a plug-and-play cables at all... it's a simple dock-and-play.

Auskck replaced his 3575 and 3576 internal 160GB Seagate PATA drives with an external enclosure and "Toaster" (docking station or hard drive dock) for swapping FIVE SATA drives so far on and between the DVDRs... a "dock-and-play HDD farm." Others have even more HDDs in their "farms" and swap between Philips and Mag HDD DVDRs.

A multi-bay enclosure like that shown in Auskck's pic above protects inactive drives and provides the 5V/12V power reqd for the active 2.5" or 3.5" HDD in the dock, reducing the recorder's internal heat and the HDD's stress on the recorder's power supply and circuits.

Drive swaps take Auskck less than 1 min. cuz he turns his 3575 and 3576 off to make the drive swap. That method apparently allows the machine to boot up in a normal manner, check for a good HDD and make it immediately recordable or playable with no further user action. gm2040's single-enclosure approach mentioned above shuts the external drive down when he turns off the DVDR and turns it back on again when he powers back up.

Drive FW is NOT installed on the HDD, and previously used HDDs are NOT auto-formatted when connected (like in some other recorders), so each machine immediately recognizes the new drive, with all titles, user settings and timer rec programs intact on each machine! There's no reqmt to be mated (and limited) to a specific machine SN, as some HDTV DVRs are reqd to do. Also, unlike HDTV DVRs, external drives can be disconnected w/o losing everything (e.g., Tivo). All this makes the HDDs portable between externally configured PhilMag DVDRs.

Even tho SATA drives are hot-swappable in computers, our Pioneers say it's not possible since the machine has to "recognize" the drive on machine startup. In fact, for now, drive swaps should only be done AFTER you see the blue or grey screen on your TV, indicating the drive and all ops have fully stopped, which is 10-20 sec AFTER you power the DVDR off.

For 3575/3576/2080/2160, which have a PATA drive, you'll have to ADD an IDE/SATA Adapter like this one to connect to the existing 40-pin IDE cabling and allow SATA/eSATA cabling to the exterior. You can also order a SATA Adapter from Funai (~$12) but it'll need a "simple" mod. to add the PATA power connector, as described and pictured here.

The 2160A and MDR follow-ons don't need an adapter, they already have a SATA drive.

In deciding on your approach to a HDD farm, you might read some descriptions that mention "eSATA" when they're using std internal SATA drives. Just be aware that there are SATA AND eSATA HDDs, but their cable interfaces are not compatible with each other, as described in this Wiki article. An eSATA interface is deeper and ruggedized for repetitive connection/disconnection... which is NOT needed when using a HDD docking station (cables stay connected at all times).

You don't need to use eSATA HDDs, just normal SATA drives. Many people say "eSATA" when they mean they "externalized" their std SATA drives thru an eSATA drive enclosure. That's the simplest approach and least costly cuz SATA drives are widely available and reasonably priced, as are single and multiple eSATA drive enclosures.

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Plug-and-Play with Single External HDD

SCOTTYPA... 12/08/09... 2160A... Externalized 500GB Samsung 500GB Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ SATA in Rosewill RX35-AT-SC eSATA External Enclosure
He replaced orig. 160GB SATA with an externalized 3.5" HDD in a single Rosewill enclosure (not multi-bay like Auskck) and with NO docking station. Click here for step-by-step instructions.

Some single-drive eSATA enclosures are shown here.

In either case, you'll need the coupler, SATA extender cable and SATA/eSATA conversion cable listed in Scottypa's procedure, which are the first three items here, to convert the internal SATA connection of a 2160A/513/515 to an external eSATA connection for the enclosure.

Here's another SATA/eSATA conversion cable that you can order in 0.5-meter (~1.5 ft) or 1-meter (~3 ft) lengths.

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2.5-inch Laptop Systems

For an INTERNAL or EXTERNAL setup, you could also use Hitachi Travelstar 7K500 2.5" drives or Auskck's (#4 above) Travelstar 5K500.B 2.5" drives, both made for laptops and which use MUCH less power than 3.5" Deskstars... 0.5-0.69W idle and 1.4-1.8W operating... amazing, to say the least! If you go this route, make sure you get a Dock that fits both 2.5" and 3.5" drives.

For internal installation, Auskck and Sydyen used alternate mounting methods for their 2.5" laptop drives like the Travelstar. They must be securely mounted to prevent vibration and movement while operating, but they don't fit in the same 3.5" screw holes, so Auskck mounted his 2.5" with Velcro.

Sydyen mounted 2.5" 5400 rpm drives on wood blocks in two of his DVDRs and has been running them for over a year, with heavy editing and fragmentation. He reports no problems at all. In fact, he says he no longer worries about the Divide/Delete editing bug that can occur sometimes... he does it all the time with his 2.5" drive units.

Ti-Triodes mounted his 2.5" drive with one screw in the 3.5" bracket and double-sided tape, as described here.

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Researching and Selecting HDD Model

For researching mfgr's specs and availability of various HDDs, I've found no better website than newegg.com. Enter a HDD model # in the Search box at top. Below the pic of the drive will be mfgr's info and a product page with the specs you need to know or a link to download the mfgr's spec sheet.

Use the tables below to see which HDD series and model # was one of the original OEM drives found in these DVDRs or Alternates used by some upgraders. As drive technology advances and those listed drives become harder to find, use the info in the tables to find either the newer models of same series or other drives with same specs... esp. the 512 bytes/sector format. Personally, if choices and budget permit, I'd look for drives that specify they're for "AV" or "DVR" operation, esp. for the 2160/2160A/513/515, which are *always* auto-recording.

Funai does not stock or sell HDDs.

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FW-Usable HDD Capacities (~Hours)

Rec Mode|80G|160G|250G|320G'|500G²
1-hr-HQ|15|33|51|61|103
2-hr-SP|30|66|103|126|206
2.5-hr-SPP|38|82|129|158|258
3-hr-LP|45|99|155|190|310
4-hr-EP|60|132|206|253|413
6-hr-SLP|90|199|310|384|620
'Some replacement 300 and 320GB drives may be seen by FW as "non-std" and MAY format to ~250GB capacity, as reported by TimeLine62 and dfw515 here (3 posts).
²Largest capacity allowed by our FW in ALL models. 640 & 750GB have been recognized but limited to 500GB usable capacity. On 3/17/12, Mickinct tried a 1TB Seagate in a 515 with SuperFW 727V and the 515 said it couldn't use that HDD, not even 500GB of its capacity.

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Table I. OEM HDD for 357x/2080

Much has changed since the original IDE/PATA HDDs for the 357x/2080 were procured and installed in 2006-2007, so finding the latest SATA drives (and IDE/SATA adapters) with much lower Idle power reqmts should be pretty easy.

Seagate DB35 Series PATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 357x/2080
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|PATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
80 | ST380215ACE | 5.0 | 4.8 |0.787 x 4.010 x 5.787|19.99 x 101.6 x 146.6
160 | ST3160215ACE | 5.0 | 4.8 |0.787 x 4.010 x 5.787|19.99 x 101.6 x 146.6
250|ST3250820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
320|ST3320820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
400|ST3400820ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99
500|ST3500830ACE|8.2|9.3*|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 146.99

*For 250-500GB upgrades, there are better options than this 5-yr-old drive series. The higher-capacity drives use a significantly higher IdleW power draw (+94%) compared to the OEM 80/160GB drive for which the 2080/357x were designed... and 2080/357x are at Idle a LOT compared to a 2160/513/515. See Table II for a lower-power PATA HDD for the 2080/357x as a direct replacement. Also see Tables III-V or Tables A-1-A-3 for better OEM or Alternate lower-power SATA HDDs you can use in a 2080/357x by adding an IDE/SATA Adapter like this.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

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Table II. OEM HDD for 2160 (OK for 357x/2080, But NOT 2160A/513/515)

Hitachi 7K500 Series "GLAT" PATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 2160
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|PATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160 | HDP725016GLAT80 | 6.1 | 3.3 |1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDP725025GLAT80|6.1|3.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDP725032GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
400|HDP725040GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDP725050GLAT80|7.9|4.5|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.79|26.1 x 101.6 x 147

HD=Hitachi DeskStar
AT80:
AT=PATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

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Table III. OEM HDD for 2160A (OK for 513/515)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


Hitachi 7K1000.B Series "SLA" SATA, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 2160A
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160 | HDT721016SLA380 | 6.4 | 3.6 |1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDT721025SLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDT721032SLA360/380|8.2|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDT721050SLA360/380|8.2|4.4|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147

IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380:
A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

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Table IV. OEM HDD for 513 (OK for 2160A/515)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


WD AV-GP AVVS, One Confirmed OEM HDD in 513
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|WD1600AVVS|4.7|2.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
250|WD2500AVVS|4.7|2.3|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
320 | WD3200AVVS | 4.7 | 2.3 |1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147
500|WD5000AVVS|4.1|3.7|1.028 x 4.00 x 5.787|25.4 x 101.6 x 147

This WD AV-GP series is also found in the 515. The "AVVS" model has 8MB cache, "AVCS" has 16MB cache, and "AVDS" has 32MB cache.

Another HDD that can be used in the 513 is an OEM drive found in the 515: the Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series listed in Table V below.

Notes: 1. The WD-AV series HDDs have a feature called Preemptive Wear Leveling (PWL) that sweeps the heads over the platter(s) when the machine is idle to even out wear. However, according to Stapler1234, it also makes clicking/clacking noises, so they had to modify the FW to reduce that noise. Also, the Mags are hardly ever in idle, so this WD AV-GP series *might* not be a good upgrade choice?

2. One user, dfw515, tried to make use of these in a dock-and-play external drive but he claimed it wouldn't start up in time to catch the beginning of a timer recording. (Never heard from him again for resolution/confirmation.) It's a "green" drive and other people with Moxi's etc. seem to also have problems with their green WD's?
IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Table V. OEM HDD for 515 (OK for 2160A/513)
(OK for 357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series, One Confirmed HDD in 515
Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

One confirmed HDD in the 515 is a Hitachi CinemaStar 5K1000 CE Series "HCS-CLA" drive, one of Hitachi's latest 3.5" drives "designed to support on-demand digital video solutions." These are 1-platter drives, 5700 rpm, fast startup/shutdown... in the 515, times are trimmed to 10/7 sec.

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HCS5C1016CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HCS5C1025CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HCS5C1032CLA382|6.4|2.9|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500 | HCS5C1050CLA382 | 6.4 | 2.9 |1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147

Another HDD found is a WD AV-GP 5000 series, like the one listed in Table IV above. The "AVVS" model has 8MB cache, "AVCS" has 16MB cache, and "AVDS" has 32MB cache. However, see the Quote Note for that series in Table IV.

IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

HC=Hitachi CinemaStar
A360/A380:
A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 2=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Table A-1. Alternate Hitachi "HDP-GLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


Hitachi 7K500 Series "GLA" SATA

Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

These "HDP-GLA" models are the ones used by our Pioneers Alitin, Busey and JoeKustra. See Table III for the OEM model used in the 2160A.

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HDP725016GLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDP725025GLA380|6.4|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDP725032GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
400|HDP725040GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDP725050GLA360/380|8.2|4.8|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147

IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380:
A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 0=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Table A-2. Alternate Hitachi "HDS-CLA" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


Note: These drives have a high rate of failure or DOA in NewEgg reviews... all in computer usage AFAICT. However, I included this table anyway cuz three of our Pioneers installed the 500GB drive (mickinct in May 2010, bodhi78 in June 2010, and gmacted on unknown date) and have not reported any problems so far. YMMV!?

These are Hitachi 7K1000.C DeskStar Series "HDS-CLA" drives built to SATA II specs (rev. 2.6). Here's an article on SATA II... and here's a post by Dartman on the I/F transfer rate diff. of SATA II vs SATA I drives (300MB/s vs 150MB/s) and the possibility of a jumper it might have to "slow" the rate down if it doesn't like the host's controller and chipset.

Hitachi DeskStar 7K1000.C SATA II
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|HDS721016CLA382|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
250|HDS721025CLA382|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
320|HDS721032CLA362|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147
500|HDS721050CLA362|6.6|3.6|1.03 x 4.00 x 5.787|26.1 x 101.6 x 147

IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

HD=Hitachi DeskStar
A360/A380:
A3=SATA, 6=16MB cache, 8=8MB cache, 2=Reserved
Cache size makes NO noticeable difference in our DVDRs.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Table A-3. Alternate Seagate "ST-AS" HDD for 2160A/513/515
(+357x/2080/2160 w/Adapter)


Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 Series SATA
See Special Note on Hitachi Deskstar HDDs

GB|SATA Model #|OpW|IdleW|H x W x D in.|H x W x D mm
160|ST3160318AS|6.19|4.6|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
250|ST3250318AS|6.19|4.6|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
320|ST3320418AS|6.57|5.0|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99
500|ST3500418AS|6.57|5.0|0.78 x 4.00 x 5.787|20.0 x 101.6 x 146.99

IdleW (power used during idle) is essentially irrelevant to the 2160 and MDR series of DVDRs since they are seldom in an idle state... they're almost always auto-recording in the background. Thus, OpW (power during typical user ops) is the only power stat of real interest or consequence to a 2160A/MDR user.

Do not cover the small breather hole in HDDs, and don't put your finger on it (or it'll ingest your greasy boogers on startup). Hitachi's breather hole is in back-top area.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

GETTING INSIDE & REMOVING HDD/DVD... PRECAUTIONS!

Precautions
  1. UNPLUG FROM POWER!
    These machines have Standy power, an amplified coax circuit when plugged in, and backup power even when unplugged! If you don't remove all power and dissipate/drain residual electricity, you could easily fry the unit, as this guy did on a Philips 3455 cuz he left it plugged in!

  2. Before touching anything inside the case:
    • UNPLUG this DVDR from all power source(s).
    • Let it sit for at least 10 minutes to drain any residual electricity.
    • Remove jewelry from hands and wrists and remove stuff from shirt pockets that could fall in case while leaning over it.
    • Touch the case to get rid of any static electricity in you.

  3. Don't touch the exposed back pins on a HDD, PCB/circuit board solder points, or PCB solder-strips.

  4. Look for and lift up any "pinch" or "clamshell" clips on ends of ribbon cables before trying to remove them.
    Those clips must be carefully lifted to allow easy disconnect and pinched back in place when reconnecting. They can be broken if not unclipped before pulling the cable end-fitting loose (straight out, don't wiggle too much)... if broken, only effect would be less secure connection, but if not moved, prob. OK!

  5. Remove and/or install ribbon-cable end-fittings STRAIGHT in or out, as shown in the sketch below titled "Instructions for Connectors."
    These cables have thin copper on their mating surfaces which can be "smeared" by wiggling sideways back-and-forth while pulling off or pressing on. Also, the ground pins inside the connector are diff. sizes, with ground pins LONGER so they all make contact first to prevent short circuits. Rocking the ribbon cable sideways to remove or install circumvents that "ground-pin-first" design feature.

  6. Protect the inside PCBs from metal particles.
    If you use a file, drill or dremel to make or expand an opening in the back for the external cable, use a cloth or other non-conductive shield near the work area and check for particles before closing up. Cleanest and safest way to create an opening might be to make two cuts at top edge of the case with "tin snips" or "nibbler" and fold the cut section down and inward (with pliers?) to protect the cable at the exit point. For other type of holes/slots, use a rubber grommet or equivalent around the hole or slot.
Procedure for Cover & HDD Removal
  1. Gather tools:
    • Posidrive #2 screwdriver OR Philips with non-sharp tip and flatter angles. You can file sharp point down slightly until you get good biting surfaces for the small screws.
    • Single-edge razor blade, safety pin or similar tape/ribbon releaser/scraper... for HDD only.
    • Drill for removing stuck screw heads.... maybe?
    • Dremel or "Nibbler" for cutting opening in back of case... only if going "external."
  2. Follow illustrations below and detailed procedures written by our HDD Prioneers above (those in red).
See PRECAUTIONS above.|Pull/push straight in, no rocking side-to-side. Ground pins inside connectors are longer to assure they ALL make contact fist.

|Replace ground "Plate" shown below on new HDD.
|
[/aname]

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Order Parts & Service Manual
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX parts:
Apparently, Funai Service has stopped responding to user requests for help or parts, as one user found in Feb 2017, Here's his info on what he received from an email request:

From Magnavox Support [email protected] get response:
" am sorry but we do not place order internal parts to direct customers. We also do not have information of the diagnostics of the service center you contacted. They are the one who will order the part needed to fix your unit. Please contact them again to follow up on your repair inquiry.

If you have any questions or inquiries, please feel free to contact us. You may also call our hotline at 1-800-242-7158. We are open Monday - Sunday 9AM-11 PM EST excluding major holidays. "

I contact the number which they give me and nobody answer the phone and returns phone call.

For PHILLIPS parts:
An unsolved problem. Funaiservice.com doesn't stock parts for Philips DVDRs. On diff. occasions, Funai has pointed to its subsidiaary, P&F USA, or Encompass Parts, 1-800-432-8542. P&F seems to only have a few accessories. Encompass seems to be a wholesaler and hasn't responded to emails I sent!? :eek:

For Magnavox, Funai might send you a Service Manual (SM) along with your part(s) if you request it for your "repair project." Otherwise, the SM costs $25.00. Don't know about P&F or Encompass policies.

See specific subjects below for repairing/replacing common parts.

Make sure you keep your old or broken machines around for parts!

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Replace DVD Burner
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
All MAGNAVOX DVD burners with mated/calibrated Main PCB (Funai's "Main CBA") cost $67.99.

ALL DVDR FW IS LOCATED ON THE DVD MAIN CBA (PCB). This means you'll *most likely* get the OEM FW Versions for the machine the burner was designed for, altho if updated/later FW is still available for download, you can update it yourself to that later FW.

PN's are as follows:
See Important Note above
Ordering info is here.

Mfgr|DVDR|Speed|Burner PN

Mag|515|8X|N78F3FUN

Mag|513|8X|N78F0FUN

Mag|2160A|8X|N78F0FUN

Mag|2160|8X|N78F8EUN

Mag|2080|4X|N78F4DUN

Philips|3576|4X|Same as 3575?¹

Philips|3575|4X|N78P3DUN²
¹Philips PN is 996510003027. Not available from Funai.
²Confirmed by one user. Not available from Funai.

rkg22 proved that a Mag burner will work in a Philips 357x if you don't try to use the Mag PCB. Main PCB's for PHILIPS will NOT work in Mag DVDRs and vice versa, not just electromechanically, but because all FW is on that Main PCB. Later, he verified that the Mag Main PCB can't be used in the 357x, even tho the Mag burners can.

Procedure

See PRECAUTIONS above.
  1. Gather tools:
    • Posidrive #2 screwdriver OR Philips with non-sharp tip and flatter angles. You can file sharp point down slightly until you get good biting surfaces for the small screws.
    • Flathead screwdriver, small and/or medium... maybe?
  2. Remove screws from cover, then slide top cover back, as shown in the illustration above and pics below.
DigaDo ordered a replacement DVD drive for his 2160 from Funai and has taken pics located here (2 posts).
As shown in DigaDo's pics, the replacement drive comes with the small attached CBA/PCB boards underneath with the mini-ribbon cables attached and ready to install on the separate, adjacent PCB that comes with the replacement drive, identified in the right-hand sketch above as the "DVD/HDD Main CBA Assembly."

Here's a post by dfw515 and, 6 posts down, some further discussion of specific instructions on working with the ribbon cables, etc.

CAUTION: DigaDo also took some pics of a critical white-plastic slider part you should not touch cuz it breaks easily.

Below are pics I took to see how difficult it was to remove the DVD drive (but not the mated PCB) from a 3575... it was pretty easy.

↓Front Insides - Mounting Screws Removed from Edges of Drive w/Philips Scrwdrv | ↓Right-Front Retaining Clip (Pry Up Slightly To Release Tang on Drive)
|


|

↓Left-Front Retaining Clip (Pry Up Slightly To Release Tang on Drive) | ↓Flipped - Gear Side - Note One Ribbon IN Slotted Bracket and One NOT
|


|

↓Flipped - Gear Side Closeup - Note One Ribbon IN Slotted Bracket and One NOT | ↓Flipped - View from Back
|


|

↓Flipped - Closeup of Ribbons Showing Attachment To Drive, One Up Inside and One on Accessible "Outside" Board. You don't remove these. See ribbon instructions starting here and continuing 6 posts down. | ↓Flipped - Bar Code on Side with Serial Number(?) "L4681007417"
|


|

↓Reinstall - Ribbon on Right in Tight Fit with PCB, Can Prevent Fully Seating Drive So Hold Up and Make Sure it Is In Slotted Metal Bracket (NOT In Here)... not a problem if replacing PCB also... install drive first, then PCB and ribbons? | ↓Reinstall - Ribbon on Right is IN the Slotted Bracket That Holds It Close to Drive and Keeps It from Being Squished Under Drive During Reinstall... not a problem if replacing PCB also... install drive first, then PCB and ribbons? With cables in place, jiggle the drive while pressing down on sides and pegs in bottom of drive will "snap" in place in holes in mounting plate... it tries to stick up in back with front clips in place, but jiggling and pressing firmly on edges should get it to "snap" down.
|

Go back to list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Replace Main Fuse
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: If you have to replace the Main Fuse, like after a lightning strike, I'd suggest ordering it from funaiservice.com.

Ordering info is here.

Since that glass fuse is a "Time Lag" fuse, 2A 250V, and there are many other fuses that look alike and have same Amp and Voltage specs but different lengths and diameters, different names (like Fast Acting), etc., etc.

If you install the "wrong" fuse, you could damage components in the power supply. Also, Funai recommends NOT plugging in power if you seuspect the Main Fuse is blown, which could also damage the power supply.

Here's a DigaDo pic of the fuse inside the case, right where the power cord enters.

Removing the top cover is shown in the 1st pic here.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Replace Fan
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: PN for all Magnavox fans except 2080 is MMEZR12XNR05 and costs $4.35. User's detailed instructions here.

Ordering info is here.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Replace SATA Adapter
IMPORTANT NOTE: In contacting suppliers, always include the DVDR model name (2160, etc.) & model number (E2Sxxxx, E2Mxxxx, etc.) from back tag, along with the requested part so the parts supplier can make SURE you get the correct part for your machine. All info here is on a "best-efforts" basis from various sources and could be WRONG!
For MAGNAVOX only: SATA Adapter for the 2160A, 513 and 515 is PN 1VSA20684, ordered from [email protected]

You should never need replacing this unless it breaks?

Ordering info is here.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Open Stuck DVD Tray

See PRECAUTIONS above.

Sketch below shows rotating gear fwd but that's only if the tray is STUCK IN THE MACHINE. Obviously, rotate the gear the other way, or both ways, if it's stuck halfway or anywhere outside... you're just trying to get it to engage in full-out or full-in position! :D



Thanks to DigaDo, a picture of the white DVD drive gear:



CAUTION: DigaDo also took some pics of a critical white-plastic slider part you should not touch cuz it breaks easily.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

CleanDVD Spindle

Click here for DigaDo's instructions and pics on cleaning the DVD spindle of these Mag HDD/DVD recorders.

Click here for his similar instructions for another Funai-mfgd recorder, an Emerson.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Power Supply

These DVDRs use at least two different power supplies (PS) but probably all have the same specs since they seem to be mixed in different batches of each model. DigaDo and Auskck verified that their Mag 2080 and Philips 3575 used the same PS based on this pic posted by DigaDo.

DigaDo also posted this pic of the PS in his original Mag 2160 (mfg Dec 2008), which matches the PS in one of my Philips 3575's (mfg Jan 2008).

The actual full-power specs on the label of our OEM 160GB HDDs (shown here) are:
357x = 12V 0.52A = 6.24W at full HDD power.
2160 = 12V 670mA (0.67A) = 8.04W at full HDD power.
(W = V x A)

No one has found or posted the exact power output in watts of the PS, so here's my WAG (Wild Ass Guess). The power-input CBA/PCB has a fuse on it that's rated for 2.0A 250V (500W max.) for all machine electric reqmts at power-on. Since 2.0A is the highest power rating possible (or the fuse would blow), and our HDDs run on full power at 12V, then 2.0 x 12 = 24W max. available for HDD power. The use of the W = V x A equation now elevates this to a SWAG (Scientific Wild Ass Guess). :D

That 24W max is:
4X higher than the 6.24W rating of the 357x HDD.
3X higher than the 8.04W rating of the 2160 HDD.
3X higher than the 8.2W rating the highest-power 500GB drives listed in the tables above that many upgraders have been using w/no problems so far.
2.5X higher than the 9.3W rating of the worst power-hog OEM HDD series, the 500GB Seagate DB35.3 PATA used in the 357x.

Most importantly, the only noticeable difference our Upgrade Pioneers have found so far from their 250 and 500GB drives after a year or more, besides the obvious capacity increase, are a much better pic, e.g., Ti-Triodes (#7) and PaintModel (#14:)).

BOTTOM LINE ON POWER: Remember that all of the above is just a SWAG!

Look for a replacement or upgrade drive that comes closest to power specs of THE ORIGINAL OEM DRIVE (160, 320 or 500GB) as listed in the HDD Tables above. Based on the typ. OEM HDD OpW spec of 6.4 and on actual experience of our Pioneer upgraders* with higher OpW HDDs, my recommendation is to stay within 30% of the OEM spec, or no more than 8.3 OpW.

*Some examples: two upgrade Pioneers have used an 8.77W/8.40W Op/Idle drive in their 3575's, one in Mar 2009 and one in Feb 2010, both with no ill effects.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Expected Component Life & Actual Usage Stats

A Funai rep. has provided some stats on expected life of the DVD and HDD drives, as follows:

"We cannot guarantee but our design life is more than 1,000 hr.
In our lab test, the unit usually works more than 2,000 hr.
Maybe, motor life is a key point of DVD drive life.

"Regarding HDD, nobody knows the life as you know.
I met HDD sudden death few times in my PC.
But in my experience, my job PC worked (10 hrs per day) x (250 days per year) x (3 years no trouble) = 7,500 hr.
I think we can expect more than 10,000 hrs."

While those stats can be considered only "educated guesses" of life expectancy, a more important measure is actual usage by our Members.

Computerman3 recently reported that he had 9,631 hours of DVD use on his 3576 using crappy TDK discs, prob. also 16X! :D :eek:

The table below contains more, but older, data reported by our PhilMag machines as of the dates noted in the table. The data is only from people who've taken the tme to report their usage stats and includes only their highest-mileage "Phil" (3575/3576) or "Mag" (2080/2160) model.

To check your mileage, use SKIP 321 for DVD-WR/-RD times (hrs:min) FIRST cuz that menu can be exited with Back/Return, then use SKIP 079 for HDD POWER ON time (hrs), which requires a machine power-off to exit. Please post the numbers so I can add them to these tables and link your name to your post.

Some Accumulated Usage Since:
1st Philips 3575 purchased by an AVS Member: TimSH on 5/27/07.
1st Mag 2080 purchased by an AVS Member: ksjs02 on 10/15/07.
1st Philips 3576 purchased by an AVS Member: MMikeM on 4/19/08.
1st Mag 2160 purchased by an AVS Member: hugemoth ~8/5/08 (AVS lost 1 week of posts).

DVD-WR time is at full laser power; it's the disc-record/erase time, which depend on disc speed (e.g., 16X takes more power than 8X, 8X more than 4X).

DVD-RD time is Standby (just plugged-in) laser power, called "bias" power. It's the power the machine maintains on the laser while it's "off "so it's "ready to read" from the get-go, AND it's the disc reading/playback power level.

User |{colsp=2} HDD hrs |{colsp=2} DVD-WR h:m |{colsp=2} DVD-RD h:m | As of
Name
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Phil
|
Mag
|
Date
|
Chuck44 |
1695​
||
9:31​
||
37:07​
||7/29/09
DigaDo |
920​
|
1118​
|
105:11​
|
81:49​
|
341:59​
|
253:30​
|3/30/10
Jjeff's Dad |
3086​
|
|
22:37​
|
|
183:00​
|
|9/5/09
Kansas_Tom |
709​
|
800​
|
0:00​
|
0:29​
|
2:50​
|
1:26​
|7/29/09
Stump69 |
4162​
|
1265​
|
49:45​
|
12:10​
|
289:51​
|
131:54​
|8/2/09
sydyen|
3256​
|
4335​
|
0:00​
|
1:32​
|
0:00​
|
30:27​
|8/4/09
tfj2u |
4380​
|
2694​
|
48:32​
|
37:01​
|
844:46​
|
466:32​
|7/30/09
wajo|
3916​
|
1501​
|
11:15​
|
6:06​
|
76:15​
|
87:50​
|11/8/10

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

[/QUOTE].
 

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4 Posts
Thanks Wabjxo,


Lots of features to learn to use. I am psyched to never have reach for a VCR tape again. I usually record 2-3 shows/wk, and the VCR PQ sucks! No flipping through tapes trying to find the right one. And I can watch a recorded show while recording a show for my wife. This is the only electronics purchase in recent memory that is happening with no flak from the boss



I didn't see any commercial skip feature. Oh well, it can't be any worse the FW-ing a videotape!
 

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Registered
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14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by darynd /forum/post/12355917


Thanks Wabjxo,


Lots of features to learn to use. I am psyched to never have reach for a VCR tape again. I usually record 2-3 shows/wk, and the VCR PQ sucks! No flipping through tapes trying to find the right one. And I can watch a recorded show while recording a show for my wife. This is the only electronics purchase in recent memory that is happening with no flak from the boss



I didn't see any commercial skip feature. Oh well, it can't be any worse the FW-ing a videotape!

You don't ever have to see a commercial again. Toggle button on left has SKIP on top and REPLAY on bottom. Each is settable from 5 sec per push to 5 minutes... we use 1 minute SKIP and 30 sec REPLAY, work well. Setting is made in the Setup > General Setting > Playback menu.
 
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