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Quote:
Originally Posted by auskck /forum/post/17337422


Congratulations:

You are now the resident expert on HDD upgrades

Nah, with all of your experience reports on HDD upgrade, we don't even need resident expert
a wealth of information in yours and wajo's pages has made this seemingly difficult task pretty easy.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 /forum/post/17337481


Nah, with all of your experience reports on HDD upgrade, we don't even need resident expert
a wealth of information in yours and wajo's pages has made this seemingly difficult task pretty easy.

Congratulations, little sparrow! Following in the footsteps of the great ones


Now you guys have to figure out how to make it simple enough for mere mortals to do it, too! How cool.... I was hoping one of these days we'd figure out a way to just plug in an external like the western digital media gizmo that Tivo folks can use, but I can see that's probably not going to be so easy to create a 'plug and play' Firewire- (esata in this case) style solution. I guess I'll have to wait til my warranty expires, but I hope you're documenting all this with pictures and baby-steps for the rest of us!


Only plus side to having a small drive is when you make an idiot out of yourself (as I did yesterday) and accidentally delete everything on it, you won't lose as much! Told you -- BABY steps ....
 

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Discussion Starter #6,923

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire /forum/post/17337758


I was hoping one of these days we'd figure out a way to just plug in an external like the western digital media gizmo that Tivo folks can use, but I can see that's probably not going to be so easy to create a 'plug and play' Firewire- (esata in this case) style solution. I guess I'll have to wait til my warranty expires, but I hope you're documenting all this with pictures and baby-steps for the rest of us!

Auskck did this long ago and operates 4 ESATA's on same machine, and moves them to another machine when he wants... something TIVO and Moxi folks can't do. You also retain all recorded titles when switching drives (no reformatting reeqd), taking drives to and playing titles on another machine, etc. while preserving timer rec programs.

See #5 here.
 

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I more or less get how the internal is tweaked by adding the adapter and cables, then the outgoing 'plug' becomes the connector to the external drive enclosure with multiple swappable drives. I could probably handle that - though the cheap screws are always a P I T A , but my real question is "how do you put humpty dumpty together again?"
Does the extending cable that connects to the external peripherals just hang out the back like a tail ? One photo of the test unit is still open, and another photn shows the red esata cable extended (to the toaster) where it's easily swappable... Dumb question -- Do you ever put the 'lid' back on, or does the cover have to stay off to accommodate the now external cable?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17340252


Not sure if Auskck will see this, but that pic of his showing the front view of his 3575 with enclosure and toaster on top, is buttoned-up and in an operational mode with one of his 4 HDDs (or maybe he has 5 now).

that's what I thought, but how do you let the cable hang out the back? Sorry for being slow on the uptake with this, but it's hard (at least for me) to conceptualize. I'm not shy about taking stuff apart - it's when it comes to putting it back together again...



Also, is this routine the same for the 2160a ? I think I remember someone saying it's even easier to upgrade the newer models, but his photos are for the phillips, right? Maybe one plus factor, given the minus (format bug) we've been putting up with. This is very cool - just dont have the guts to rip apart my new toys (not finished breaking it yet!)
 

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FW Updates

Jump To:

READ THIS FIRST

Ver02C for Freeze/Dead Problem on 513 and 515
BE 727H & SuperFW 727V for 2160A/513/515 - 10/5/11
OLD FW Update 72A for E19 Error in 2160A - 12/29/10 (Superseded by 727H and 727V)
Temp. "L3 Fix" for E19 Error in 2160A - 10/12/09 (Permanently Fixed by 72A, 727H and 727V)
The Story Behind L3

 

READ THIS FIRST... PLEASE!

 
All FW IS ON THE DVD PCB ("MAIN CBA"), so installing a new DVD burner with mated/calibrated PCB as listed here will bring with it all the FW for that DVDR model (as of OEM loading date). One example of this is JimLely's "double-switch" procedure described here.
NONE OF THE FW ON THIS PAGE IS FOR THE NEW 53X MODELS (533/535/537! iNSTALLING ANY OF THESE FW UPDATES ON A 53X MODEL WILL MAKE IT USELESS.ONLY REMEDY THEN IS HELP FROM FUNAI OR REPLACING THE DVD PCB, IF ANY 53X DVD PCB'S ARE AVAILABLE.
 

Generally speaking, as Funai releases NEW user-downloadable FW Updates to fix or expand factory-installed FW ("OEM FW"), they post it for download on the funaiservice.com web page. That page has had some errors that remain uncorrected, so files should be downloaded from the Attachments on this page. Do not change file names of downloaded and extracted files.

 

They generally replace older FW Updates that might have been posted there before because they tend to retain the older FW's workings and add new fixes and/or functionality as needed. OEM FW has never been accessible to users and very likely never will be. See lists of both OEM and User Update FW here.

 

However, there may be cases where you need to reinstall or revert to an older FW version, such as file corruption or disliking a new FW version after trying it. However, it's quite possible that, as they release a new User Update, the replaced (older) FW will no longer be available for download.

Therefore, it's virtually mandatory that you download and stash away ALL compacted FW ZIP* files and instructions given as Attachments here, even if you don't currently have the model it applies to and/or you don't plan on installing it.

 

You can place them in folders, but don't change the file names of the downloaded and expanded files themselves.

 

       *ZIP files are compressed for easier storage and sending to other lost souls.

Go back to list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

Ver02C for Freeze/Dead Problem on 513 and 515

 

For fixing a Mag 513/515 that exhibits a repeated, not occasional, freeze condition where it appears "dead' and doesn't respond, even to buttons on front of unit (which eliminates remote batteries as the cause). There might or might not be a front panel display.

 

In the download files below are the Ver02C FW (DTV-S FW 0x2C) plus BE FW 727H for the 513 or 727V for the 515. To fix a "freezing" unit that already has BE FW 727H or 727V, you're really interested only in Ver02C since Funai designed it to work with those BE FW Versions. We also know it works with BE 729V in late-model 515's based on Jerrymc77's report here.

 

The steps for downloading the FW, checking your BE FW, and installing updated FW are as follows:

 

IMPORTANT: FUNAI STRESSES THAT Ver02C SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED IF YOU HAVE REPEATED FREEZING OR POWER-ON ISSUES IN A 513 OR 515!

 
7/2/12 - Funai download website is screwed up, so I've updated this page to include the proper files for use. DO NOT go to the Funai website to download FW files or instructions for this FW Update.
 
  1. Download and use these "generic" Funai step-by-step instructions as a guide: 
    FW Instructions 995k .pdf file

     
  2. Download ALL the files below... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES.
    Ver02C.zip 1,068k .zip file
    HD6A269727H1E.zip 3,574k .zip file
    HD6A269727V1E.zip 3,577k .zip file

  3. Expand/Extract Ver02C and HD6A ZIP files directly or by moving to a folder on your computer... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES.

    Don't delete the zip files, they might come in handy someday.

    You should now have the following expanded files: Ver02C.dtv (2,048 KB), HD6A269727H1E.mot (12,179 KB), and HD6A269727V1E.mot (12,179 KB).

     
  4. Check and write down the BE Version currently on your machine, using the SKIP 123 procedure described here.

     
  5. Determine the appropriate FW file(s) you'll need for your machine, which depends on the BE Version it has:

     

        513 - If it already has BE 727H or 727V, you'll need only Ver02C.dtv.

                  If it has BE 718, 72A, 726H or 726V, you'll also need BE HD6A269727H1E.mot.*

     

       515 - If it already has BE 727V or 729V, you'll need only Ver02C.dtv.

                 If it has BE 724V or 726V, you'll also need HD6A269727V1E.mot.

     

        *HD6A269727V1E.mot can be used in a 513 to make it operate like a 515. See "SuperFW 727V" note  here.

     
  6. "Send" or burn the appropriate .mot and .dtv files as "data" on a CD or DVD... only the .dtv file if your machine already has the correct BE FW noted above. I recommend a separate disc for each file but you CAN put more than one file on a disc and the machine *should* ask you to select which one you want to upload... to me, sounds like an accident waiting to happen?

    Windows: Follow the detailed, step-by-step Funai Instructions which you should have downloaded in Step 1 above. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the most reliable PC/Burnrate/Disc combo might be WIN-XP/16X/CD-R.


    For WIN XP, right-click on the .mot file and use the Send To command. That should allow you to select an app pkgd with WIN XP (RecordNow is one) for writing the .mot file to disc. If using Record Now (or any other app), if there's an option to create a "Data Disc," that's what you want.


    For WIN 7, in the "Burn to Disc" menu after inserting a disc, click Show Formatting Options, then select 16X as the "Recording Speed."


    For WIN Vista, see the "special" notes in the Funai instructions.


    For a non-MS disc-writing app, ImgBurn is highly recommended and free.  Download ImgBurn here.  5 simple steps  listed here.


    For Mac, Create a "data disc" from the .mot file using Toast or other disc-creation app that can create pure "data" discs.

     
  7. Set DVDR on DVD drive and upload FW. Start with SKIP 654 and follow the Funai instructions faithfully.

    Do not install BE 727H in a 515.

    Do not install BE 727V in a 515 if it already has 727V or 729V.

    Do not install Ver02C FW in your machine if it does NOT have a recurring and annoying freeze problem.


    Initial reading/loading a FW Update disc can take a minute or two before you see an update progress % count-up, so be patient.

     

    At end of uploading, AFTER 100% progress indicated and Completed message appears, YOU'RE NOT THROUGH! DO NOT SKIP the final steps noted in the instructions. THESE ARE ALL PART OF THE UPLOADING ROUTINE:

     
    • Remove disc from tray. Disc tray stays open.
    • Unplug power cord.
    • Let sit 30 sec.
    • Replug power and press Standby/On switch. Disc tray closes after a few sec.
    • If using HDMI, reactivate it by pressing the HDMI button and going thru the four formats.
    • You're done and ready to redo setup.

 

If the FW doesn't auto-run or it runs longer than 2 min. with no progress display, odds are there's something wrong with the file (e.g., you didn't Unzip/Extract it?). Don't panic, just wait til it decides to quit.

Please let us know if you install the Ver02C FW in your 513 or 515. Tell us the BE Version you wrote down in Step 3 and your subsequent operating results.

 

Go back to list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

 

BE 727H & SuperFW 727V for 2160A/513/515 - 10/5/11

 
7/2/12 - Funai download website is screwed up, so I've updated this page to include the proper files for use. DO NOT go to the Funai website to download FW files or instructions for this FW Update.
 

TWO VERSIONS of this FW Update: 727H only for the 2160A/513 and SuperFW 727V for the 515 but also an option for 2160A and 513 owners, as described below.


This FW udpate includes the following:

 
  1. Fixes an HDMI Control (CEC) problem first reported by KrazyJeffSD on 9/16/11, where his 513 turned his TV on for a timer rec program while he was gone... shouldn't do that.
  2. Fixes E19 Finalize and other Disc Edit menu problems in a 2160A with timer programs set.
  3. Fixes failure of AR to start in some machines.
  4. Eliminates double "Are You Sure?" dialogs.
  5. Eliminates confusing auto-Preview after an End-Cut.
  6. Changes "Empty Title" to "Empty Space" on DVDs.
  7. Fixes problem of timer programs being deleted by making changes to other timer programs.
  8. Even more important than 1-7, SuperFW 727V intended for the 515 can be installed in the 2160A and 513 to give those units all the operating features of the 515 ... and it's reversible if you don't like it.

 

* * * * * * *

CAUTION:


A FW Update is each user's sole responsibility. A failed FW Update due to power loss or other unknown event, like operator error, could require you to replace the DVD burner and its mated/calibrated PCB ($68).


Mistakenly installing an older FW for a machine that pre-dated yours... "downdating" as Funai calls it... could make your machine operate like the older one. It's recoverable only by replacing your machine's DVD CBA (PCB), where all FW resides, i.e., you can't simply install a newer FW designed for your machine... it won't "take." Reverting to a previous FW designed for your machine is OK, like reverting from 727V to 727H in a 513, or to 72A in a 2160A.


Updating the FW in your machine(s) could cause serious problems if you don't take the process seriously and faithfully follow EACH STEP as instructed by Funai.



* * * * * * *


To install the 727 FW Update in your 2160A/513/515, follow these steps and the Funai instructions, which are in one of the files you'll be downloading.

 

The Funai download page has had some errors that remain uncorrected, so files should be downloaded from the Attachments on this page.

 
  1. Take a pic or write down your Timer programs.

    This FW update will reset your 2160A/513/515 to factory defaults. You'll lose timer rec programs, channel memory, custom settings, and maybe the clock, but not recorded titles.

     
  2. Verify that you have one of the units this FW applies to.

    Check the tag on the back of your recorder and verify that it shows one of these combinations:

     
    Model No.Model Name*
    2160AE2S00UD
    513E2S00UD or E2S01UD
    515E2S02UD

    This FW is NOT for the original 2160 (E2M01UD) or the 357x (E2H40UD)... I tried in both, rejected in both, but scary til then. Don't try this at home!

     
  3. For 513/515, make sure you don't already have BE Version 727V or 729V.

    Depending on when and where you bought your 513/515, it could already have BE 727V or 729V, which means there is nothing to update so you should NOT install either of these updates. Check with SKIP 123 procedure, Step 1.

     
  4. Open and save these Funai step-by-step instructions:
    FW Instructions 995k .pdf file

     
  5. Download BOTH of these compressed FW .zip files and save them in separate, approp. named folders... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES:


    This is FW 727H designed for the 2160A and 513 only. However, see info on "SuperFW 727V" next for a more "interesting" update. In any case, download this FW ZIP file anyway, even if you don't currently have this model, and stash it away with filename, date, etc.
    HD6A269727H1E.zip 3,574k .zip file


    This is FW 727V designed for the 515 but it's also the user-tested FW Update for the 2160A and 513, as described below.
    HD6A269727V1E.zip 3,577k .zip file
    SuperFW 727V


    I call the 727V FW Update for the 515 "SuperFW" because it can be installed in the 2160A (Model E2S00UD mfgd in 2009) and the 513, and it will add ALL the 515's benefits as listed here , except for the longer battery backup, 500GB HDD and better remote. Install a 500GB HDD and buy a 515 remote and you'll have a 515!


    It is NOT for the orig. 2160 (Model E2M01UD mfgd in 2008) or any other Mag/Philips model.


    Great thanks to Bizarro_Stormy for being the first to take a big risk in trying 727V in his 2160A... he proved that it works! Subsequently, Ken.F tried 727V in his 513 with the same positive results! (See "Info on 513 FW Versions Seen to Date" below for help if you have trouble updating a 513.)

    727V Can Be Reversed - SuperFW 727V can be reverted back to previous FW in a 2160A or 513.
  6. "Extract" the 727H or 727V FW .zip file you plan to use, based on info in step above... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES.

    The file will unzip/extract to 12,179 KB with a filename extension of .mot.

    Don't delete the zip files, they might come in handy someday.

     
  7. "Send to" or burn the .mot file as "data" on a CD or DVD.

    Windows: Follow the detailed, step-by-step Funai Instructions which is one of the files you must download from the link above. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the most reliable PC/Burnrate/Disc combo might be WIN-XP/16X/CD-R.


    For WIN XP, right-click on the .mot file and use the Send To command. That should allow you to select an app pkgd with WIN XP (RecordNow is one) for writing the .mot file to disc. If using Record Now (or any other app), if there's an option to create a "Data Disc," that's what you want.


    For WIN 7, in the "Burn to Disc" menu after inserting a disc, click Show Formatting Options, then select 16X as the "Recording Speed."


    For WIN Vista, see the "special" notes in the Funai instructions.


    For a separate disc-writing app, ImgBurn is highly recommended and free. Download ImgBurn here. 5 simple steps listed here.

    Mac: Create a "data disc" from the .mot file using Toast or other disc-creation app that can create pure "data" discs.


    For use and for storage, you can put more than one FW update on a disc, like 72A, 727H and 727V, and the machine *should* ask you to select which one you want to upload.

     
  8. Set DVDR on DVD drive and upload FW. Start with SKIP 654 and follow the Funai instructions faithfully.

    Initial reading/loading a FW Update disc can take a minute or two before you see an update progress % count-up, so be patient.


    At end of uploading, AFTER 100% progress indicated and Completed message appears, YOU'RE NOT THROUGH! DO NOT SKIP the final steps noted in the instructions. THESE ARE ALL PART OF THE UPLOADING ROUTINE:

    If the FW doesn't auto-run or it runs longer than 2 min. with no progress display, odds are there's something wrong with the file (e.g., you didn't Unzip/Extract it?). Don't panic, just wait til it decides to quit. Here's a pic that Ken.F took of his 513's FW Version screen , showing the 727H FW he installed from a CD-R. He subsequently installed 727V in his 513 and got all the op benefits of the 515.
    • Remove disc from tray. Disc tray stays open.
    • Unplug power cord.
    • Let sit 30 sec.
    • Replug power and press Standby/On switch. Disc tray closes after a few sec.
    • If using HDMI, reactivate it by pressing the HDMI button and going thru the four formats.
    • You're done and ready to redo setup.
  9. Set machine back up and return all General Settings to your normals.

    A FW update RESETS your machine to factory fresh, so you'll have to set it back up from scratch, incl. all your customized General Settings (Auto Clock, Video In, etc.). My recommended settings are here.

     
  10. Refer to your unit as a V2160A, V513 or V515 when posting here.

    This will help people immediately recognize that you have a unit, even a 515, with the SuperFW Update in it. This special model I.D. should be used only between us... it's not appropriate for other uses since no one will know WTH you're talking about! Thanks to Ken.F for suggesting that we need a special "name" for these super units!
 

Info on 513 FW Versions Seen to Date


The 513 has had two distinct models with diff. model numbers and even some 'oddball" FW Versions. So far, we've had a couple of problems updating 513's, with reports of eventual success by:

1. Burning data disc slower (16X rather than 48X).

2. Burning data disc on computer with WIN XP rather than Vista.


We don't think the problems stem from the BE FW already in 513's but, for future ref., here are the current 513 Model/BE FW combinations we've found in new and refurb units:

 
DescriptionDVDR/FW DateModelBE FW727V Success?
Early-513 OEM FWDVDR Apr-Jun 2010E2S00UDHD6A269718H1EYES
Late-513 OEM FWDVDR Jul-> 2010E2S01UDHD6A26972AH1EYES
Odd 513 OEM FWDVDR 8/11UnknownHD6A269726H1E*YES. More info (2 posts).
Odd 513 OEM FWUnknownUnknownHD6A269726V1E*YES. More info.
1st 513 FW UpdateFW 10/5/11N/AHD6A269727H1EYES
*726H/V do not have the pre-titling of timer rec programs or program skip features of SuperFW 727V.
Go back to list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

END OF CURRENT UPDATES

 

* * * * * * *

OLD FW Update 72A for 2160A and 513- 12/29/10 (Superseded by 727H/V)

 
7/2/12 - Funai download website is screwed up, so I've updated this help file to include the proper files for use. DO NOT go to the Funai website to download FW files or instructions for this FW Update.
 

Back-End (BE) FW "72A" is a SUPERSEDED update for the 2160A and 513 for several fixes.


I recommend that you download this FW anyway, even if you don't currently have this model, and stash it away with filename, date, etc. for future use... this FW will disappear if Funai releases a new FW Update.


The 72A FW did the following:

 
  1. Fixed the E19 error in the 2160A.
  2. Fixed the failure of AR to start in some machines.
  3. Eliminated double "Are You Sure?" dialogs.
  4. Eliminated the confusing auto-Preview after an End-Cut.
  5. Changed "Empty Title" to "Empty Space" on DVDs.

 

* * * * * * *

Note: A FW update is each user's sole responsibility. A failed FW update due to power loss or other unknown event can turn your unit into a brick.


To install this superseded 72A FW in your 2160A or 513, rather than the newer 727H/V, follow these steps and the Funai instructions, which is in one of the files you'll be downloading.

 
  1. Take a pic or write down your Timer programs.

    This FW Update will reset your 2160A or 513 to factory defaults. It'll wipe clock, timer rec programs, and channel memory and change General Settings to their defaults (Skip/Replay, Auto Clock, Video Input, TV Aspect, Make Recording Compatible, etc.). Check all settings and reset as necessary. Recorded titles are not affected.
  2. Verify that you have one of the units this FW applies to.

    Check the tag on the back of your recorder and verify that it shows one of these combinations:

     
    Model No.Model Name*
    2160AE2S00UD
    513E2S00UD or E2S01UD
    *Model Name is in bottom-right corner of tag.

     

  3. Open and save the FW Instructions from Step 4 in the previous section above.

  4. Download this 72A FW Update for the 2160A... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES:
    HD6A26972AH1E.zip 3,798k .zip file
  5. "Extract" the .zip file on a PC... DO NOT CHANGE THE FILE NAMES.

    The file will unzip/extract to 12,179 KB with a filename extension of .mot.

    Don't delete the zip files, they might come in handy someday.

     
  6. "Send" or copy the .mot file to a CD or DVD.

    You could also create a DVD using the RecordNow app pkgd w/Windows... it has an option for a Data Project > Create Data Disc.

     
  7. Set DVDR on DVD drive and install FW in accordance with the instructions.

    If the FW doesn't auto-run or it runs longer than 2 min. with no progress display, odds are there's something wrong with the file (e.g., you didn't Unzip/Extract it?) or you're trying to load the FW on the wrong machine (whereupon it'll normally spit it back out). In any case, don't panic, just wait til it decides to quit.

     
  8. Set machine back up and return all General Settings to your normals.

    A FW update RESETS your machine to factory fresh, so you'll have to set it back up from scratch, incl. all your customized General Settings (Auto Clock, Video In, etc.). My recommended settings are here.

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


Temp. "L3 Fix" for E19 Error in 2160A - 10/12/09


This is an "operational" E19-fix for users of the 2160A who can't or don't want to install the 72A FW Update (a permanent fix) as described above:

 
  1. Set your 2160A's Source to L3 (DV) with Source button on remote... no DV cable connected.

     
  2. Finalize, Format, Erase, and Delete the Empty Title normally!

    (You don't need to delete timer rec programs with this procedure.)

 

Important Notes on L3 Workaround:

 
  1. This procedure applies only to the 2160A with 2009 mfg dates (on back sticker). The original 2160 with 2008 mfg dates and the 513 with 2010 mfg dates do not require this workaround.

     
  2. To Format a new DVD±RW disc for 1st use, you MUST have the unit on L3 BEFORE inserting the disc cuz the Formatting starts immediately w/o any user action. It doesn't matter which drive is selected at time of this process but, if on the DVD drive, you'll see a progress bar on the TV screen plus chasing lines in the display, and if on the HDD drive, only the chasing lines in the display. RW discs only need one initial formatting for continual use. DVD±R don't get formatted, so no special actions reqd before 1st use.

     
  3. To Erase an RW or Finalize any recorded discs, you can insert the disc first, set Source to L3 (DV), open the Disc Edit menu and select option (after the disc loads, of course, ~20 sec).

     
  4. Remember the normal "lockout" times: you can't start a Finalize within 1-hour of the next timer rec program, and you can't Format or Erase within 15 minutes.

     
  5. While on L3, short "flashes" on screen mean nothing... don't worry about them.

     
  6. While on L3, don't press any buttons other than the Setup button to get to the Disc Edit option you need. Don't get curious or frisky with other buttons, esp. SKIP + # buttons... I've already done that!


     
  7. Setting the 2160A on L3 dumps the accumulated buffer and stops background recording.

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

The Story Behind L3


10/12/09 - Some have expressed interest in how I came up with the L3 workaround, so here's a brief explanation.


After lots of unsuccessful tests with different settings suggested by many people, this problem seemed to be unsolvable by us. The only workaround had been to delete all timer-rec programs before doing any Disc Edit op (Format/Erase/Finalize)... a royal pain in the arse!


I kept checking the Funai FW download page to no avail... a FW update really didn't appear to be forthcoming.


On 10/12/09, knowing how frustrated 2160A users must be (I don't have an "A" model), I decided to re-address some nagging questions I had, which led to a provable theory of how to kill the bug without a FW update. The thought process went something like this.


Normally, there's a connection between timer rec programs and the Disc Edit ops like Format, Erase and Finalize. A RW Format or Erase can't be started unless there's at least 15-min. before the next timer program, and a -R/+R/-RW Finalize must have at least 1-hour.


The FW Bug in the 2160A was different in that it would allow users to start a Disc Edit op, but it would fail at the 90% point with an "E19" error... about the time for a "write-to-disc" op. This suggested a "read-write" component instead of, or in addition to, a program-timer component... maybe some sort of "interference" going on between the two?


E19 is stated as "Safety Stop during editing." The "during editing" was obviously the Disc Edit read-write op it was involved in at the time (Format/Erase/Finalize), and "Safety Stop" meant the FW saw a problem during that read-write op that reqd it to abort the process.


That "problem" must be more than the next timer rec start time since the process would start OK, and the only read-write op going on at the 90% point *might be* Autostart Recording (AR), even tho opening the Disc Edit menu was supposed to stop AR.


But, what if it wasn't stopping AR? And if not, was there a way to manually stop, or suspend, it to see if the "interference" would go away and allow Disc Edit ops with timer programs set? Only chance to do that for "bug-killing" purposes seemed to be opening one of the menus that dump the buffer or setting the Source to a line input. The menus were out cuz that would preclude opening the Disc Edit menu, and we already knew THAT menu didn't work. That left only a line input.


I had tested L1 and L2 before on my original 2160, so I just confirmed again that they restarted AR after they dumped the buffer. However, my Eureka! moment came when I realized I had never tested L3. When I did, it dumped the buffer as expected, but it ALSO suspended AR for as long as the machine was on L3... unlike L1 and L2, it won't start ANY recording without a DV source connected. While in this "permanent" waiting mode, it also allowed me to open the Disc Edit menu and perform disc ops in my original 2160!


Tantalizingly close now!?



Since I don't have a 2160A, I couldn't test the full theory on the so-called E19 bug, but armed with my newfound operating info and unproven theory, I asked for a volunteer tester. Artwire responded, did the test and proved my theory: L3 worked as the E19 bug killer! He also tested RW Format and Erase and found both also worked while on L3.

Here are the two posts on the actual test.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

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Maybe this was addressed before but I just missed it.


I want to fill a small 10G USB memory stick with all my music CD's that I converted to MP3's and use the 3576 as a virtual juke box. My question is, does the hard drive continue to run anytime the 3576 is on or will it time out and power down because it's the USB port not the HD being used? With 100+ CD's I thought this would be a good way to have them easily accessible to my main sound system but not at the expense of wearing out the HD.


Also, (and maybe this is addressed in the manual) is there a max # of files and directories that the system will recognize? If I have 100 CD's with say 15 songs each that would be 1500 titles/files/tracks in 100 directories.


And yes... I do know that I could use a laptop for this vs the 3576 but that's not a option at this time.


tnx

George
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17340385


It's easier for the 2160A cuz it alread has a SATA HDD.


Like anyone who hasn't actually done this build, like Auskck has, I ass-u-me he cut, drilled or Dremeled a small slot in the back top edge of the case for the ESATA cable... I don't see any back shots of his finished build in his album with the pic linked to above?

See, baby steps! I'm not a power tool person -- as you probably have guessed
Thanks! Figured it was something like that but it was probably so obvious no one mentioned it. I tend to try to keep my stuff as hole-free as possible! But for a good cause, maybe I'll sacrifice on to the experiment... AFTER the warranty ! Meanwhile, I'm trying to get into the good habit of burning stuff soon after recording so I dont get too far behind. For now I'm double recording in two different rooms if It's something I know I want to keep. May switch over to recording on to drive and one to DVD at the same time, but I definitely want more than one copy.


The other day I couldn't figure out what was taking so long for a dub - I goofed up and even though I thought I was copying less than 2 hrs. the damn thing too 5 hours to copy.Turned out I had forgotten to cut the CNN segment down - I had been editing around 10 short recordings and missed that one , so I ended up real-time dubbing 4 hrs of 'news' to get a 7 minute segment (at crappy quality, no less). Redubbed it in 15 minutes at HSD after I figured out what I had done wrong. This is easy but you do have to pay attention -- lack of labeling a little hard to deal with, so as I get more adept at this, I may just try to keep better track of what I'm recording when I do it, to make it esier to tally the dub times. You cant track by number, since that constantly changes, so I guess time/date is the best bet
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by George55 /forum/post/17340606


Maybe this was addressed before but I just missed it.


I want to fill a small 10G USB memory stick with all my music CD's that I converted to MP3's and use the 3576 as a virtual juke box. My question is, does the hard drive continue to run anytime the 3576 is on or will it time out and power down because it's the USB port not the HD being used? With 100+ CD's I thought this would be a good way to have them easily accessible to my main sound system but not at the expense of wearing out the HD.


Also, (and maybe this is addressed in the manual) is there a max # of files and directories that the system will recognize? If I have 100 CD's with say 15 songs each that would be 1500 titles/files/tracks in 100 directories.


And yes... I do know that I could use a laptop for this vs the 3576 but that's not a option at this time.


tnx

George

I think few folks use the 3576 to play ,mp3 audio. I would assume the HD is not being used when the USB stick is being read, or at least I don't know why it would it continue to stay on.


But George, I would be interested in your experience with the 3576 and .mp3 files on a USB stick. I would use it to randomly play perhaps 100 songs. Unfortunately in between many of the songs I would be a loud blaring sound, a music snippet for less than a second. Really annoying. I tried using different USB sticks and got the same problem. I now play .mp3 files off a USB stick from my DVD player (a Yamaha).



_Lazza
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by George55 /forum/post/17340606


My question is, does the hard drive continue to run anytime the 3576 is on or will it time out and power down because it's the USB port not the HD being used?

The HDD will be in Idle mode, like it is after turning machine on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by George55 /forum/post/17340606


Also, (and maybe this is addressed in the manual) is there a max # of files and directories that the system will recognize? If I have 100 CD's with say 15 songs each that would be 1500 titles/files/tracks in 100 directories.

Up to 255 folders, up to 99 tracks/999 files, up to 16 cards on card reader (per the manual... no personal experience testing MP3 limits).
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire /forum/post/17340135


I more or less get how the internal is tweaked by adding the adapter and cables, then the outgoing 'plug' becomes the connector to the external drive enclosure with multiple swappable drives. I could probably handle that - though the cheap screws are always a P I T A , but my real question is "how do you put humpty dumpty together again?"
Does the extending cable that connects to the external peripherals just hang out the back like a tail ? One photo of the test unit is still open, and another photn shows the red esata cable extended (to the toaster) where it's easily swappable... Dumb question -- Do you ever put the 'lid' back on, or does the cover have to stay off to accommodate the now external cable?

Once the cable is routed out the back you can replace the lid. Cable can then be plugged into a data store, toaster or external esata drive enclosure.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire /forum/post/17340674


See, baby steps! I'm not a power tool person -- as you probably have guessed
Thanks! Figured it was something like that but it was probably so obvious no one mentioned it. I tend to try to keep my stuff as hole-free as possible! But for a good cause, maybe I'll sacrifice on to the experiment... AFTER the warranty !

Another thing that might be so obvious that it may be overlooked is, once a hole is drilled be sure to use a grommet where the cable passes through.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo /forum/post/17341172


Another thing that might be so obvious that it may be overlooked is, once a hole is drilled be sure to use a grommet where the cable passes through.

A nice upmarket treatment
 

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MUST BE A GLITCH IN 3576


Sony TV confirms that WUSA-HD COMCAST Montgomery County comes in on QAM 108 (although does nit give subchannel). 108.1, 108.2 and 108.3 pops to 4.1, 4.2 and 4.3 (does not matter of 4 manually removed or not). Tried every 108.XX past 108.3 and every one pops to 4.1. Manually tuning in 9.1 pops to 9.32 (SD version). Using timer to tune to 9.1 records blue. But, if I manually tune in the HD channel by going to 9.32 and hitting the channel up (which goes to 14 for a mini second and then pops to 9.1 HD) and leave it there, if the next show scheduled is on 9.1 it does not attempt to tune a different channel and records 9.1 HD in WS. So I just have to remember to leave it where it needs to be. Any HD channel that has a real channel as XX.1, the tuner can go directly to it. Any HD channel that is mapped to a virtual channel and exists in the same XX.1 range (like 108.4 for exaample where 108.1 is mapped to 4.1) is lost to direct tuning (best I can tell after days of trying).
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lzsj123 /forum/post/17341594


MUST BE A GLITCH IN 3576

But, if I manually tune in the HD channel by going to 9.32 and hitting the channel up (which goes to 14 for a mini second and then pops to 9.1 HD) and leave it there, if the next show scheduled is on 9.1 it does not attempt to tune a different channel and records 9.1 HD in WS. So I just have to remember to leave it where it needs to be. Any HD channel that has a real channel as XX.1, the tuner can go directly to it. Any HD channel that is mapped to a virtual channel and exists in the same XX.1 range (like 108.4 for exaample where 108.1 is mapped to 4.1) is lost to direct tuning (best I can tell after days of trying).

I have run into one similar instance of not being able to record when timer set on my 2160a, but I think that's pretty much KomKastic's fault. For channels 22. 1 and 22.3 I receive two different stations at the exact same number. The click through sequence is 22.1 - 22.10 then 22.34 then 22.1 - 22.3 If I manually select the one I want and it's "on" when I hit record it's fine, but if I use the timer it's a crapshoot as to whether I'll get one, the other, or just an hour of blue screen. On my tv, connected to the same coax, only one station comes in at that number, as you might expect, but on the tuner I (happily) get both. Guess it's a small price to pay for being able to record both stations, but I do have to consciously remember (or just record it on the machine with a STB). Annoying, but easy enough to work around.


Don't waste any more effort trying to explain the inexplicable - just leave a post-it on the recorder so you remember the first couple of times you need to do it.



auskck, Digado, and wajo - thanks for not laughing (too hard) at my mechanical ineptitude. You guys are good sports ...and good teachers!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lzsj123 /forum/post/17341594


MUST BE A GLITCH IN 3576


Sony TV confirms that WUSA-HD COMCAST Montgomery County comes in on QAM 108 (although does nit give subchannel). 108.1, 108.2 and 108.3 pops to 4.1, 4.2 and 4.3 (does not matter of 4 manually removed or not). Tried every 108.XX past 108.3 and every one pops to 4.1. Manually tuning in 9.1 pops to 9.32 (SD version). Using timer to tune to 9.1 records blue. But, if I manually tune in the HD channel by going to 9.32 and hitting the channel up (which goes to 14 for a mini second and then pops to 9.1 HD) and leave it there, if the next show scheduled is on 9.1 it does not attempt to tune a different channel and records 9.1 HD in WS. So I just have to remember to leave it where it needs to be. Any HD channel that has a real channel as XX.1, the tuner can go directly to it. Any HD channel that is mapped to a virtual channel and exists in the same XX.1 range (like 108.4 for exaample where 108.1 is mapped to 4.1) is lost to direct tuning (best I can tell after days of trying).

Two things to try:


1. Have you tried the simple "hang-by-a-thread" test described here? This will make sure that 108 is not so strong as to splatter, which might preclude it being tunable on 108 itself.


2. For any digital channel that has an analog "counterpart," Delete the analog channel manually and see if any difference. This will test my WAG that the early-3575 blue-screen-in-cable-system problem attributed to "analog interference" might play a role. Not sure if just removing the analog from the CH+/- memory will be "sufficient" to eliminate any interference, but might be possible depending on what the "intelligent memory" of these units does with that.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lzsj123 /forum/post/17341594


MUST BE A GLITCH IN 3576


Sony TV confirms that WUSA-HD COMCAST Montgomery County comes in on QAM 108 (although does nit give subchannel). 108.1, 108.2 and 108.3 pops to 4.1, 4.2 and 4.3 (does not matter of 4 manually removed or not). Tried every 108.XX past 108.3 and every one pops to 4.1. Manually tuning in 9.1 pops to 9.32 (SD version). Using timer to tune to 9.1 records blue. But, if I manually tune in the HD channel by going to 9.32 and hitting the channel up (which goes to 14 for a mini second and then pops to 9.1 HD) and leave it there, if the next show scheduled is on 9.1 it does not attempt to tune a different channel and records 9.1 HD in WS. So I just have to remember to leave it where it needs to be. Any HD channel that has a real channel as XX.1, the tuner can go directly to it. Any HD channel that is mapped to a virtual channel and exists in the same XX.1 range (like 108.4 for exaample where 108.1 is mapped to 4.1) is lost to direct tuning (best I can tell after days of trying).

Just a thought -- if 108.1 .2 .3 is popping to 4.1 , .2, and .3 ... where is WRC/NBC showing up on your line up? THAT should be 4.1, .2, and .3 ... and 108 is CBS local. So maybe you're overlapping somehow?
 

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In my reading of the 2160 manuel (pg 40) it states that DVD-RW/-R discs will be recorded in the DVD+VR mode automatically. My Mag DP170MW8B player manuel says it will not play a disc recorded in the VR mode. Is VR and +VR recording modes the same thing?


An admission of inexperience happened yesturday while dubbing HDD to DVD on a DVD+RW disc. I had the recording speed set to SP and about half way through, decided that I wanted to change the speed to HS. I stopped the session and tried to erase the disc. I guess the 2160 didn't like that and put up an error message that this disc was not recordable. Well that was the end of that disc. After that the disc would not load in the 2160 or the DP170. I thought that DVD+RW could be erased. Is this just a fluke event?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by minime18r /forum/post/17342298


In my reading of the 2160 manuel (pg 40) it states that DVD-RW/-R discs will be recorded in the DVD+VR mode automatically. My Mag DP170MW8B player manuel says it will not play a disc recorded in the VR mode. Is VR and +VR recording modes the same thing?

No, VR-mode is part of the "Video" recording std, while +VR is a Philips recording std. compatible with the Video std.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minime18r /forum/post/17342298


An admission of inexperience happened yesturday while dubbing HDD to DVD on a DVD+RW disc. I had the recording speed set to SP and about half way through, decided that I wanted to change the speed to HS. I stopped the session and tried to erase the disc. I guess the 2160 didn't like that and put up an error message that this disc was not recordable. Well that was the end of that disc. After that the disc would not load in the 2160 or the DP170. I thought that DVD+RW could be erased. Is this just a fluke event?

Normally, -R/+R discs are unusable if stopping a dub process, but you might have proved the same for a +RW... inless you've got a 2160-A version and have a timer rec program set?
 
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