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Discussion Starter #7,361

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ontario /forum/post/17500791


I saw that comment about 5400RPM before I bought my WD 640GB at Newegg. So far that 5400RPM is not a problem in my 2160A and recording well with timer setting or pressed of the "Record" button.


Yes, all recording modes show it is only a 500GB, recording time matching your table data. Too bad it will only recognize 500GB as confirmed by others.

Thanks for checking the capacity of your new 640GB HDD in the 2160A... I hope it keeps working well for you.
 

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I've had a 3575 for a couple years, used the digital tuner for OTA only.


A couple months a go a got a 2160 refurb from J&R. I used it OTA also, but last week attached the cable, did a scan and received several channels on both digital and analog.


When I switched the 3575 to the cable, and did the scan, it finds all the analog channels but doesn't find the digital channels. I've scanned a few times, and sometimes find one channel, but usually finds none.


So I have to manually check the channels that I receive.


I thought the function of the tuner was more due to the cable company than to the unit. Not sure why each machine works differently.


Here's my question: on one channel 15.1 and 15.2 are scrambled. 15.3 is clear. On the 2160 the scan found only 15.3, so when I'm channle surfing, I skip the scrambled channels. On the 3575, I had to check channle 15 in the manual cannel add, so it seems I'm stuck with all the subs, and have to skip the 2 scrabmled subs to get to the one with programming.


Any way around that?
 

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Discussion Starter #7,363

Quote:
Originally Posted by pm123 /forum/post/17501616


Here's my question: on one channel 15.1 and 15.2 are scrambled. 15.3 is clear. On the 2160 the scan found only 15.3, so when I'm channle surfing, I skip the scrambled channels. On the 3575, I had to check channle 15 in the manual cannel add, so it seems I'm stuck with all the subs, and have to skip the 2 scrabmled subs to get to the one with programming.


Any way around that?

Yes, do another Auto Channel Preset and all Scrambled channels should disappear (blanks also if you did an All-or-Nothing). The tuner in these gets "smarter" the more Auto scans you do.
 

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The DVD Drives used in the 2080, 3575 and 3576 are thought to be identical, interchangeable 4x drives while the DVD Drives used in the 2160 are known to be 8x drives.


Differentiating these drives from the numbers stamped on the DVD Drive top cover alone is somewhat problematic as the first line of that indicia is common between the 4x and 8x Drives. The second line of the indicia may give a clue as to the DVD Drive’s identity but the best model identifier is found on the sticker found on the rear of the DVD Drive.


There are three different areas where DVD Drive indicia may be observed without dismounting the DVD Drive:


1-As mentioned, non-model specific indicia is stamped into the DVD Drive top cover toward the rear. The DVD Drive top cover indicia for my 2080 model of July 2007 manufacture may be seen in the first photo. The DVD Drive top cover indicia for my 2160 of December 2008 manufacture may be seen in the second photo. Notice that the first line in both photos shows the same N78FODUM number for the 4x and 8x DVD Drives. The second line of the indicia varies slightly, 1VM222812 (1) for the 4x 2080 DVD Drive, and 1VM222812 G (1) for the 8x 2160 DVD Drive. This second line may or may not be a model-specific production or specification code.


2-The actual model-specific DVD Drive “model number” is found on a sticker on the back of the DVD Drive. The first line is the actual model-specific “model number.” The DVD Drive rear sticker for my 2080 of July 2007 manufacture may be seen in the third photo. The 2080 DVD Drive model number is shown as N78F4DUN. The “4” in the 2080 DVD Drive model number probably indicates a 4x drive. The DVD Drive rear sticker for my 2160 of December 2008 manufacture may be seen in the fourth photo. The 2160 DVD Drive model number is shown as N78F8EUN. The second “8” in the 2160 DVD Drive model number probably indicates an 8x drive. It appears that the second line begins with a production date code where the 2080 date code is 070704 (July 4 2007) and the 2160 date code is 081205 (December 5 2008).


3-There is a bar code sticker on the left side of the DVD Drive (as viewed from the front of the drive). This bar code number is thought to be the serial number (production sequence number) for the specific DVD Drive. The serial number bar code for the 2080 DVD Drive is seen in the fifth photo. (Since the AVS Forum limits attachments to five per post the serial number bar code photo for the 2160 DVD Drive is not posted.)




 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17501867


Yes, do another Auto Channel Preset and all Scrambled channels should disappear (blanks also if you did an All-or-Nothing). The tuner in these gets "smarter" the more Auto scans you do.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong. When I do an Auto Channel Preset, it forgets the channels that I put in with Manual Channel Preset.
 

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Discussion Starter #7,366

Quote:
Originally Posted by pm123 /forum/post/17502462


Not sure what I'm doing wrong. When I do an Auto Channel Preset, it forgets the channels that I put in with Manual Channel Preset.

I've had to repeat my auto-scan 3X recently after I added channels manually. Each time it would pick up 1 or 2 of the higher-numbered digitals the 1st auto-scan missed.


I assume you're pressing the right buttons to exit the Manual menu, Back/Return then Setup?


Are the Scrambled channels gone?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17502627


Are the Scrambled channels gone?

All the channels are gone. The Auto scan doesn't find any channels. The ones that were manually added are now deleted.


After the auto scan, if I directly enter a digital channel, it does not find it. I have to switch to TV and back to DTV. Then, a direct enter will find the channel.


I manually add the channel, see the scrambled subs. If I Auto scan again, the channel is no longer added.
 

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Discussion Starter #7,368

Quote:
Originally Posted by pm123 /forum/post/17502683


All the channels are gone. The Auto scan doesn't find any channels. The ones that were manually added are now deleted.


After the auto scan, if I directly enter a digital channel, it does not find it. I have to switch to TV and back to DTV. Then, a direct enter will find the channel.


I manually add the channel, see the scrambled subs. If I Auto scan again, the channel is no longer added.

This has happened to me too, and to 1 other person after an All-or-Nothing Procedure.


I've been trying to figure out why and thought I found the answer, which was that during Manual entry, you CAN lose digital tuning altogether (blue-screen) but toggling to the analog tuner and back to digital brought them back, as usual.


I subsequently found that temp. losing digital tuning might NOT be the answer, but still, it's always good to toggle the tuners when you see all digitals gone before trying anything else.


I wish I had the answer right now, but I do know it's appears to be totally random and another Manual procedure might not run into the same problem?


For NOW, after you Add a digital or two and BEFORE you turn the machine off, toggle the TV/DTV button BEFORE exiting the menus to make sure the digitals are still there?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17502713



For NOW, after you Add a digital or two and BEFORE you turn the machine off, toggle the TV/DTV button BEFORE exiting the menus to make sure the digitals are still there?

Not sure what you mean. I lose the digitals only after an Auto Scan. If I manually add them, they stay. Scrambles stay also.


Maybe what happening is that during the auto scan, I lose the digital signal (or maybe the tuner is not toggling properly by itself). That's why I need to toggle TV/DTV to view the digital channels.
 

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Discussion Starter #7,370

Quote:
Originally Posted by pm123 /forum/post/17502811


Not sure what you mean. I lose the digitals only after an Auto Scan. If I manually add them, they stay. Scrambles stay also.


Maybe what happening is that during the auto scan, I lose the digital signal (or maybe the tuner is not toggling properly by itself). That's why I need to toggle TV/DTV to view the digital channels.

Hmmm, sort of the opposite of what should happen. Who's your provider, Comcast?


And I assume your DVDR is 1st on the coax?


One thing to explore cuz it's so simple is to do the "Hand-by-a-Thread" test to see if your signal may be too strong, as described here... it's a very simple test.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17502834


Hmmm, sort of the opposite of what should happen. Who's your provider, Comcast?


And I assume your DVDR is 1st on the coax?


One thing to explore cuz it's so simple is to do the "Hand-by-a-Thread" test to see if your signal may be too strong, as described here... it's a very simple test.

The cable goes through a splitter to 2 analog tuners the 2160 and the 3575. It's Time Warner. I've tried it as the first device, and the results are the same.


I've spent enough time on this for today. When I get the chance I'll do the test to see if the signal is too strong. At least for now I've got the 2160 working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7,372

Quote:
Originally Posted by pm123 /forum/post/17503033


The cable goes through a splitter to 2 analog tuners the 2160 and the 3575. It's Time Warner. I've tried it as the first device, and the results are the same.


I've spent enough time on this for today. When I get the chance I'll do the test to see if the signal is too strong. At least for now I've got the 2160 working correctly.

If you've got a splitter in line, I doubt the signal's too strong, but never know?


However, I'm not sure if you tried them in line, coax to coax w/o a splitter, which is the way I'd recommend. Not sure if "tried it as the first device" means you've tried units in line.


With them in line w/o a splitter, at least you'll have the "cleanest" signal for both units, no loss or splitter-induced problems so it's all up to the units to perform.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17503102


If you've got a splitter in line, I doubt the signal's too strong, but never know?


However, I'm not sure if you tried them in line, coax to coax w/o a splitter, which is the way I'd recommend. Not sure if "tried it as the first device" means you've tried units in line.


With them in line w/o a splitter, at least you'll have the "cleanest" signal for both units, no loss or splitter-induced problems so it's all up to the units to perform.

I don't have too strong of a signal. So that's not the issue.


My 2160 is in another room, so it's not practical to put other devices after it in the line. Fortunately, that unit works the way I want it too!


I've set up from the wall to the splitter to the devices, and from the wall to the 3575 then to the splitter then to the devices.


I'm still showing the scrambled channels. I guess I'll keep scanning until I figure something out...
 

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Hi all,


Last Tuesday I placed an order for a replacement remote for my 3575H unit since the navigation and playback buttons on my current remote are not functioning.


I had ordered the Part # 996510003026 and received a remote today but it's not the same remote as my original remote and I've tried powering on my unit with it but the unit doesn't respond. I pushed the power button on the unit, let it load and then tried all the buttons on the remote but no response from the unit.


Picture of remote sent to me:
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6...psremote01.jpg


It's not the remote I ordered but I was wondering if anyone was shipped a remote like I received and was able to use it with their unit?


I bought the unit 1 year ago from Walmart.


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PittSteeler /forum/post/17505506


I had ordered the Part # 996510003026 and received a remote today but it's not the same remote as my original remote and I've tried powering on my unit with it but the unit doesn't respond.

That is certainly the wrong remote--not the one shown on their website with that part number.


Call Philips back and tell them that the wrong remote was shipped. Since the correct remote is listed as "in stock" they should send you the correct remote--the one shown on their website. Remind them that you don't have a "DVD Player," you have a "HDD/DVD Recorder."
 

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Discussion Starter #7,376

Quote:
Originally Posted by PittSteeler /forum/post/17505506


I had ordered the Part # 996510003026 and received a remote today but it's not the same remote as my original remote

When you call Philips, you can also ref. the generic PN NB526UD.

Here's a remote control web site page that has a good description under the question mark next to the word "Generic" at top of page. (It's cheaper there also, $29.95.)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo /forum/post/17505571


Call Philips back and tell them that the wrong remote was shipped. Since the correct remote is listed as "in stock" they should send you the correct remote--the one shown on their website. Remind them that you don't have a "DVD Player," you have a "HDD/DVD Recorder."
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/17505608


When you call Philips, you can also ref. the generic PN NB526UD.


Here's a remote control web site page that has a good description under the question mark next to the word "Generic" at top of page.

Okay. Thank you both, DigaDo and wajo, for both of the informative and speedy responses.
 

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Had a bit of a nasty surprise that makes me want to mention this, and see if anyone else has had a similar problem.


This is the second or third time my 2160 refurb lost or froze up on part of a recording, resulting in my not being able to dub it to DVD.


I'm not sure exactly what happened or how, but I'd had 8 episodes of STARGATE ATLANTIS I needed to dub to disc, only to discover in making the attempt that (of all things) the second episode of the season wouldn't dub.


I checked it out and found that somewhere around 50 minutes in the playback locked up. On the other hand, if I did chapter jumps, I could go beyond that point and play back the last few minutes of the episode.


At one point an attempt to get it to play led to it somehow jumping to a freeze-frame on an episode of STAR TREK: THE NEXT GENERATION.


Again, this is the second or third time this has happened with the (original) 2160 refurb, and no attempts to do scene deletes after dividing a title have been involved.


With this latest incident, at least I had recorded the same episode on another machine and was able to do a "save" that way, but I don't always double up like this.


I'm getting just a tad disappointed.


Any experiences you'd like to relate, or suggestions?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo /forum/post/17502402


The DVD Drives used in the 2080, 3575 and 3576 are thought to be identical, interchangeable 4x drives while the DVD Drives used in the 2160 are known to be 8x drives.


Differentiating these drives from the numbers stamped on the DVD Drive top cover alone is somewhat problematic as the first line of that indicia is common between the 4x and 8x Drives. The second line of the indicia may give a clue as to the DVD Drive’s identity but the best model identifier is found on the sticker found on the rear of the DVD Drive.


There are three different areas where DVD Drive indicia may be observed without dismounting the DVD Drive:


1-As mentioned, non-model specific indicia is stamped into the DVD Drive top cover toward the rear. The DVD Drive top cover indicia for my 2080 model of July 2007 manufacture may be seen in the first photo. The DVD Drive top cover indicia for my 2160 of December 2008 manufacture may be seen in the second photo. Notice that the first line in both photos shows the same N78FODUM number for the 4x and 8x DVD Drives. The second line of the indicia varies slightly, 1VM222812 (1) for the 4x 2080 DVD Drive, and 1VM222812 G (1) for the 8x 2160 DVD Drive. This second line may or may not be a model-specific production or specification code.


2-The actual model-specific DVD Drive “model number” is found on a sticker on the back of the DVD Drive. The first line is the actual model-specific “model number.” The DVD Drive rear sticker for my 2080 of July 2007 manufacture may be seen in the third photo. The 2080 DVD Drive model number is shown as N78F4DUN. The “4” in the 2080 DVD Drive model number probably indicates a 4x drive. The DVD Drive rear sticker for my 2160 of December 2008 manufacture may be seen in the fourth photo. The 2160 DVD Drive model number is shown as N78F8EUN. The second “8” in the 2160 DVD Drive model number probably indicates an 8x drive. It appears that the second line begins with a production date code where the 2080 date code is 070704 (July 4 2007) and the 2160 date code is 081205 (December 5 2008).


3-There is a bar code sticker on the left side of the DVD Drive (as viewed from the front of the drive). This bar code number is thought to be the serial number (production sequence number) for the specific DVD Drive. The serial number bar code for the 2080 DVD Drive is seen in the fifth photo. (Since the AVS Forum limits attachments to five per post the serial number bar code photo for the 2160 DVD Drive is not posted.)

On my 2160 the rear sticker is labeled "N78F8EUN" (same as your pic) with a build date of 080527. What is stamped on that top plate is identical of your pic.


That would be a nice addition to wajos' FAQs'.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof /forum/post/17506813


I'm not sure exactly what happened or how, but I'd had 8 episodes of STARGATE ATLANTIS I needed to dub to disc, only to discover in making the attempt that (of all things) the second episode of the season wouldn't dub.


I checked it out and found that somewhere around 50 minutes in the playback locked up. On the other hand, if I did chapter jumps, I could go beyond that point and play back the last few minutes of the episode.

I have seen occasional screwups like that after editing or title dividing. I was able to rescue the recording by deleting a little bit of the recording around the problem area.
 
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