AVS Forum banner

9681 - 9700 of 28073 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
I received the refurbished 2160 ordered from J&R on Memorial Day weekend. It is indeed H2160MW9A with emphasis on the 'A' and Mfg date of September 2009. It looks like new and for all intent and purposes, I'm concluding it is like new. I can't distinguish any difference in the Refurb than my new 2160A purchased late April 2010; however, the serial number begins with R and does not end in A as the new one does.


I installed it a couple days ago and I'm currently checking it out and so far without any malfunction. Usage figures are low as follows:


DVD-WR 0:18

DVD-RD 7:04

CD 0:00

HDD 40


Turner cable without box is on daisy chain from wall > 2160A > R2160A > SONY RDRVXD655 (DVD/VHS Combo) > SONY Bravia HDTV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,825 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18757840


This is good news, indeed!


I think you just might be OK if you can find a good time signal on FOX or other major network. I don't think you'll find one on the TV Guide channel...that channel's clock fools you into thinking it might be a good source, but still worth a try if nothing on FOX or CBS (try both analog and digital).


Having #2 on ch. 4 NBC with no problems indicates that will be a safe "fallback" channel to use to at least get a little longer power backup time.

With your wide range of contacts and knowledge, do you know what sets the clock, or what messes with the time, or what the 2160 is looking for? I would really love to know. Call it idle curiosity or a thirst for knowledge or anything else. Auto clock doesn't work: WHY? Some channels change the clock to odd values: WHY?


I hate a mystery. That being said, my 2160 keeps really good time on manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely /forum/post/18757720


Second MDR513H sells on ebay for $200 shipped "Buy It Now" price (same seller). What's going on here? Where are these arguably reasonably priced units coming from?

Hi Jim,


I have been wondering the same thing. Seems like they are at least $50 light. And from where???????


Jer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #9,684

Quote:
Originally Posted by Compubooth /forum/post/18757979


I received the refurbished 2160 ordered from J&R on Memorial Day weekend. It is indeed H2160MW9A with emphasis on the 'A' and Mfg date of September 2009. It looks like new and for all intent and purposes, I'm concluding it is like new. I can't distinguish any difference in the “Refurb” than my new 2160A purchased late April 2010; however, the serial number begins with “R” and does not end in “A” as the new one does.


I installed it a couple days ago and I'm currently checking it out and so far without any malfunction. Usage figures are low as follows:


DVD-WR 0:18

DVD-RD 7:04

CD 0:00

HDD 40


Turner cable without box is on daisy chain from wall > 2160A > R2160A > SONY RDRVXD655 (DVD/VHS Combo) > SONY Bravia HDTV.

With only two 2160A's in line like you have, it might be pretty easy to operate just one by setting the other on the DVD drive via the front button?


Doing that prevents remote commands, except Play, from operating the DVD-set unit (no disc in tray). Play will only turn it on, but it won't do anything REC/PLAY wise as long at it stays on DVD drive with tray empty... and don't press the HDD button on the remote, which would switch that unit to HDD like the other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18757840


This is good news, indeed!


I think you just might be OK if you can find a good time signal on FOX or other major network. I don't think you'll find one on the TV Guide channel...that channel's clock fools you into thinking it might be a good source, but still worth a try if nothing on FOX or CBS (try both analog and digital).


Having #2 on ch. 4 NBC with no problems indicates that will be a safe "fallback" channel to use to at least get a little longer power backup time.

>>>>>>>>>>>indicates that will be a safe "fallback" channel to use to at least get a little longer power backup time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #9,686

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra /forum/post/18758063


With your wide range of contacts and knowledge, do you know what sets the clock, or what messes with the time, or what the 2160 is looking for? I would really love to know. Call it idle curiosity or a thirst for knowledge or anything else. Auto clock doesn't work: WHY? Some channels change the clock to odd values: WHY?


I hate a mystery. That being said, my 2160 keeps really good time on manual.

There's some basic info in this section of the Settings help file.


In my own tests, I've found that my local cable access channel(s) will FREEZE my units, on occasion, when I set them as the search channel in the Auto Clock > Manual box. That told me also that when I used Auto Clock > ON, which searches ALL the channels, those "rogue" channels could be searched at just the right time to make my units go wonky or even freeze.


As that help file explains, these units use the PSIP data that's sent over digital channels. That data is not being maintained correctly by all stations to assure that their time data is accurate, so our units on an all-channel time search could easily run into a time signal and set the clock to it, all the while the PSIP data was WRONG, or corrupted, or whatever so the unit thinks it's on Mountain Time or in MALAYSIA or some other exotic place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,825 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely /forum/post/18757720


Second MDR513H sells on ebay for $200 shipped "Buy It Now" price (same seller). What's going on here? Where are these arguably reasonably priced units coming from?

Heaven?


It's not Walmart since that price is way too low. There's another there now with a starting bid of .01. Something's wrong. Only review is from wajo. New reviews are still being added from 2160 buyers. My bet is Funai: some employee trying to earn some extra cash. If I had the Walmart item number I could find sales numbers. Bar codes don't work for that. But if someone is stealing from a Walmart distribution center I might get an award for the tip. I work weekends. I'll see what I can find out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,825 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18758188


There's some basic info in this section of the Settings help file.


In my own tests, I've found that my local cable access channel(s) will FREEZE my units, on occasion, when I set them as the search channel in the Auto Clock > Manual box. That told me also that when I used Auto Clock > ON, which searches ALL the channels, those "rogue" channels could be searched at just the right time to make my units go wonky or even freeze.


As that help file explains, these units use the PSIP data that's sent over digital channels. That data is not being maintained correctly by all stations to assure that their time data is accurate, so our units on an all-channel time search could easily run into a time signal and set the clock to it, all the while the PSIP data was WRONG, or corrupted, or whatever so the unit thinks it's on Mountain Time or in MALAYSIA or some other exotic place.

Thanks. That sucks. I do get some good PSIP data from a few analog cable channels, but zero data on any digital cable channel. I may run with that. Thanks for the pointer. Once again, you know everything.


Speaking of freezing, your use of a unit 'freezing' is accurate. The marketing use of a unit that 'freezes' live TV makes my skin crawl. Or maybe goose bumps. I prefer 'pause'. No temperature change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18758218


Having a unit on Auto Clock, either ON or MANUAL, provides a power backup longer than the advertised 30-sec. I've clocked 4-5 minutes during my many tests, but most reliably at least 2 min. It seems that the longer you have an Auto Clock setting the longer the backup time becomes... 12 hrs here on full power blackout after 9 months on MANUAL FOX 6. Not a universal truth, of course, but a true story!



Even IF your system can't find a good MANUAL channel for a time signal, just having any non-rogue channel in that MANUAL box provides the same added power backup as having a good channel that does provide a time signal.

OK - that's nice to know. Thanks.


Jer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18758132


With only two 2160A's in line like you have, it might be pretty easy to operate just one by setting the other on the DVD drive via the front button?

That's great to know!
. Thanks!!! I had rigged a couple shields to cover the infrared sensor window on respective units so that I could operate one while covering the other. Your method is much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #9,692 (Edited)


Controlling Multiple Units of Same Brand / Manufacturer

If you have a single recorder, no problem for you. If you have one Philips and one Magnavox recorder, no problem for you either since neither remote will operate the other brand.

If you have multiple recorders or OTHER devices mfgd by Funai (Magnavox, Toshiba, Sylvania, Emerson, Symphonic et al), you've got a problem since there's no known "coding" system for our DVDRs, and each brand has MULTIPLE buttons that turn the units on. For us, those buttons are Standby/On, PLAY and Open/Close. This means you can't use the remote to turn just one recorder on and PLAY the titles on that unit's HDD... something we do all the time... without turning the other recorders (and other devices?) on and operating them all, simultaneously and blindly!

Fortunately, there are at least 4 ways to isolate a specific machine (the "target" unit) in a multi-unit system of Funai-built devices:

1. KLUGE (Kapturer of Latent User Guidance Energy)

Add a KLUGE over the sensor window of non-target unit(s).

A THICK greeting card is perfect for a poor-man's KLUGE... it's already creased and folded. Mine, shown below, turned out to be OK for long-distance use but the IR burned through at close range (~3-4 ft) when doing some tests.

Test YOUR (thicker) Kluges at close range to make sure the IR can't burn through them. If not thick enough, you can be making unintended changes to non-target machines, like I did.

KLUGEs should also be large enough to cover the display window between the buttons... 4" wide x at least 6" long, with 2+" of the 6" folded over the sensor and the remaining 4" length on the top side of the fold where more is better for stability. Overall size should be easy to handle, as well. We found full-panel coverage necessary here AFTER some smaller ones got off-kilter just enough to allow IR to "leak" in and we ended up deleting some titles we didn't intend to.

Philips units have sharp edges and straight faces, making it easy to keep them in place and flush on the glass. However, Mag units have rounded edges and sloping faces, requiring some longer Kluge dimensions.

If your stack is above your TV and you've got Mags, like me, you'll be shooting upwards with the remote. If so, make sure you've got enough length on the front (IR) side to go below the bottom of the Mag's glass, and that they fit flush against the glass... you don't want IR bouncing off the unit below up into the sensor area.

Heed this story of disaster if you operate one unit with KLUGE leaking or missing from other units!

These are my original greeting-card Kluges that IR burned thru at close range:



Here's DALET75's Kluge-build with laminated layers of manila folder and aluminum foil. He made them 5" wide, like mine, but 10½" long so they stayed in place better on the sloping face of the Mags (2½" folded over sensor and 8" on top).

Kansas_Tom (and now, me too) uses durable "Kansas Kluges" cut from black, molded-plastic VHS-tape cases, with lots of length on front, as shown below. They block IR at close range and look good while doing it! Notes:(1) High-class feet too, which raise units up and allow extra length on IR side. He made the feet from 2X2 pieces of wood 1/2" high and wrapped the sides with black contact paper. (2) Feet are not necessary since air flow is side>back and these DVDRs don't run hot anyway, based on lots of user experience and one 34-hour back-to-back marathon as noted in last para. here.



2. NextGen 413 or 433MHz IR>RF>IR Remote Range Extender, $50

Uses an RF transmitter that replaces one battery in one of your OEM remotes. That remote then sends an RF signal to the NextGen receiver on or next to your DVDR. The receiver has an IR blaster that you place over the DVDR sensor so only the signal from the RF remote is seen by that DVDR. Since RF is NOT line-of-sight like our remotes, this unit makes one DVDR respond from anywhere in your house, even if it's hidden in a cabinet. Not sure if emitter is large enough to cover entire DVDR sensor but, if not, just cover "exposed" edges with black tape?

Important Note - Designed for one unit in remote or covered location. Will work for two same-brand units but will also require two remotes.
This device converts an existing IR remote to RF rather than IR, so it won't work on a 2nd unprotected unit in the same place. You'll end up needing two remotes: one for conversion to RF and one normal remote for a 2nd unit. Also, the DVDR with the RF receiver will require careful blocking of the sensor so the normal IR remote doesn't leak into it when operating the IR-controlled unit. You can buy extra transmitters and receivers but that's only if you want to control multiple units at the same time, not normally what we want to do.

3. Separation

For the OEM remote, separate same-brand machines by several feet either sideways or up and down. Test your remote and see how well it works sideways vs up/down and place units and point remote accordingly.

4. Drive Isolation

If you set the target unit on HDD drive and non-target units on DVD drive, with no DVD loaded, you can operate only the target unit's HDD and all that's on it at will. The non-target units will turn on but be non-responsive to all playback commands... they'll still do timer recordings but nothing else you need to worry about while playing the target unit, just don't do any Setup or other menu ops on the target unit. The external HDD/DVD buttons on the Mags make them easier than the Philips to isolate the machine you want to use.

This method is not recommended for multiple users, especially youngsters, in the house?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,720 Posts
From wajo's superlative Help files
Quote:
MPORTANT NOTES


1. If you notice that your 2160/A doesn't always start AR immediately on power-up, and you regularly use AR and rely on it, make sure you're on the HDD drive after startup, then press PAUSE after ~10-sec or so to check the AR status. If the AR menu does not appear, change channels to activate the buffer. If AR has started and the AR menu is on screen, press STOP to go back to live TV, then get rid of the menu with the DISPLAY button.

We've established that, for some, AR doesn't automatically start when the 2160A is first turned on. You must either change the channel, or press Pause to activate it. Well I've just noticed that AR will also start if you go into the Titles menu (after turning unit on with no channel changes) and select a recorded program and play it.


I turned mine on, and noted that AR wasn't activated, and proceeded to the Title menu to playback a recording. After the program was over, it went back to Live TV, and I saw that AR had been recording on the ch it was left on, during program playback.


So when you're playing back a title, you may want to turn the ch to something interesting that you may want to watch later...or turn the 2160 to L3 to prevent any buffering at all, while you're watching something on the hdd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.


I'm brand new to the Funai units. I decided to wait for the newer unit in the hopes that some of the annoying software glitches in earlier units would be fixed. I paid full boat at Wallyworld and had them shipped to the store.


I compared the cost to buying a couple of refurb 2160s from J&R and then upgrading the hard drives and the cost saving wasn't enough to justify it for me, particularly when I would immediately have to apply the firmware patch.


My previous DVDR experience was with a couple of Panasonic units. I was happy with them, but one died and I decided I should get another DVDR before the species disappeared entirely. The current Panasonic units have dreadful reviews so I jumped ship.


BTW, Wajo should be getting a commission from Funai and Wal-Mart for his support and troubleshooting of their hardware.


I'd like to say that I've given the 513H a thorough workout but I really haven't. I plugged it in, scanned the channels (all analog cable here) and started to read the rather large manual with remote in hand. It's fairly clear, but reads like it was written by a non-native English speaker. I'm a bit of a techie so manuals don't scare me too much.


The factory default for the auto clock is "off", so that wasn't an issue. We don't have any time signals available to us anyway. The DST setting include two settings for the various start/ends of DST, but I just set it to OFF because I don't trust them. I make it a habit of setting the clock 30 seconds ahead of real time and then recording for one minute past the ending time to make sure I get both ends of the program. With the HDD I might change that habit. I keep the unit plugged into a UPS so I don't worry about power failures, but I really think that a $300 unit should have a backup battery for the clock.


I was curious to see if the finalize error problem had been eliminated. I'm happy to say that I recorded a movie to the HDD, changed the title, edited out the commercials in the unit, and dubbed it to DVD+R via the high speed method. 90 minutes recorded at SP took about 15 minutes to burn to T-Y 8X DVD+R media. Finalizing worked flawlessly *with* a timer program scheduled and an analog channel set so apparently that bug is gone!


I don't really perceive anything very much different about this unit compared to the discussions of the 2160.


Things I like about the 513H (mostly compared to my older Panasonics):

* HDD, don't know how I lived without that.

* High speed dubbing, ditto.

* Ability to edit out segments and divide titles on the HDD.

* Much easier to key in title text.

* Progress displays are more informative.

* This forum


Things I don't like about the 513H (again, mostly compared to the Panasonics)

* Fit and Finish are a bit cruder. Remote feels cheaper.

* No ability to set titles for programs to be recorded. You have to wait until after they record. This will be sorely missed for recurrent programming.

* No title memories. This was really convenient for titling multi-part series.

* No ability to set the thumbnail image (or at least I haven't found it yet)

* No ability to set the disk to skip the menu screen and go to autoplay.

* Title screen only shows three titles. (Panasonic showed 8)

* That danged empty title. Yes, I've read the work-around, but I'm loathe to put wear and tear on that laser diode filling up disks just to get rid of something that was not an issue at all on the Pannys. Would have it killed Funai to just suppress it when they generate the DVD menus?


Anyway, I'm happy to be able to be able to participate now! Any questions, ask away!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,825 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl /forum/post/18760653


First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.


I'd like to say that I've given the 513H a thorough workout but I really haven't. I plugged it in, scanned the channels (all analog cable here) and started to read the rather large manual with remote in hand. It's fairly clear, but reads like it was written by a non-native English speaker. I'm a bit of a techie so manuals don't scare me too much.



Anyway, I'm happy to be able to be able to participate now! Any questions, ask away!

Wonderful. Thanks for the report. Question: has Walmart asked for a review yet? Bigger question: No digital channels? That's odd. Who is your cable company and where are you located (zip code is ok).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #9,697

Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl /forum/post/18760653


First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.

Fantastic! Thanks for posting on your new toys and offering to help with questions.


As you get acquainted with the new 513, I'd like to hear if you notice anything different, besides the Auto Clock default is OFF now, compared to the existing help files... things I might need to add or change. Sort of an ongoing project... I'm thinking there might not be any other differences worthy of special note?


I've added a link to your 1st post on the "main" 513 page for people wanting to get some first-hand info on the new model.


It would be great if you could update your post above (by number or date?) with any additional overall review findings, using the "Edit" function. That way, only future questions and your answers would be spread out among all the other posts.


Again, thanks for posting!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Thanks for sharing your 513 impressions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl /forum/post/18760653


I keep the unit plugged into a UPS so I don't worry about power failures, but I really think that a $300 unit should have a backup battery for the clock.

I have trouble with this.... i never really asked, but this is an issue for me, i live in Guatemala, and while the power is decent here, when we have thunderstorm we have some power outages here and there. In my work i travel all week (except weekend), i will not be back at all till i finish the week. By what what you posted, im assuming a simple cut of power will lose all the clock and scheduled recording



I'm not an owner yet (still on the mail), but just wondering what do you guys do to prevent this? a cheap ups? im not planing on watching recordings without power, just something that will ensure that i don't lose the programing that scheduled to be recorded.


I currently just use a power conditioner for my ht setup, panamax 5100, its old but has worked really well, nothing has died in 8 years, but it doesn't have any backup battery.... i wasn't planing on changing it, but i might depending on what you guys recommend me. I was checking and browsing and found APC H15BLK , but i think a cheap computer ups might work, so just looking for opinions or recommendations to what do you guys use on your 2160/513 toward maintaining the clock/programing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #9,699

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula /forum/post/18761634


I currently just use a power conditioner for my ht setup, panamax 5100, its old but has worked really well, nothing has died in 8 years, but it doesn't have any backup battery.... i wasn't planing on changing it, but i might depending on what you guys recommend me. I was checking and browsing and found APC H15BLK , but i think a cheap computer ups might work, so just looking for opinions or recommendations to what do you guys use on your 2160/513 toward maintaining the clock/programing.

That unit appears to cost $350-$460 other places, so it seems to be a good deal and perfect for ALL equipment in a HT (based on reviews). It prob. even has full sine wave power, where the cheap computer ones have a squared wave, which some discussions have said might not be the best for our equipment... I saw an expert article or two explaining this, with lots of boo-bird comments following, so YMMV!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18762169


That unit appears to cost $350-$460 other places, so it seems to be a good deal and perfect for ALL equipment in a HT (based on reviews). It prob. even has full sine wave power, where the cheap computer ones have a squared wave, which some discussions have said might not be the best for our equipment... I saw an expert article or two explaining this, with lots of boo-bird comments following, so YMMV!
thx for the opinion... now i was reading the amazon reviews, and some have complaints about the coax cable and channels not displaying after passing thru the unit... So there is a risk that if i go for the battery my cable channels wont be recorded... lol, this is probably not for all, but still. Now im not sure what to do, i might just buy a cheap ups, like APC Back-UPS ES 450VA , and just place it after the panamax... decisions.....
, this hdd recorder is hurting my wallet... but i love buying stuff, just dislike when it doesnt work.
 
9681 - 9700 of 28073 Posts
Top