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Discussion Starter #9,941

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuzzo /forum/post/18878489


no its not a complete freez is just a bit of a quick freez and continues playing and about 30 min into recording it clears up.. and i did not start doing so untill yesterday.. i hate to loose all my titles but i guess it serves me right for not watching them.. but any how i will try the skip procedure and im really not wanting to send it back since im up grading the HD soon.. i was thinking fragmentation issues.. but i dunno..


thanks for the suggestions..


GReat THREAD!! learning a lot...

I'm glad you mentioned "fragmentation" because that's actually a fourth possibility. I assume you mentioned that because you've got lots of titles on the HDD and have done lots of editing? If so, that can be solved easily by just offloading or deleting HDD titles, last-in first-out (LIFO) since the newest titles are the ones that would be most fragmented, as explained here.


Check this out first before you decide to do a SKIP procedure.
 

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I read the thread under Record & Copy to HDD and the "Recording/Copying from a STB or STB/DVR ...... TIPS FOR STB/DVR/DTA USERS" thread , but am still getting a E25 error that it cannot record. This is for the magnavox 2160 and is hooked up to a Comcast STB(no DVR) RNG110, via composite cables to L1 or L2(tried both) and seems to work initially, but then when I set it to kick off over night, it gives the E25 next to the Timer recordings slot. I also have a Philips 3575 hooked to a Comcast DVR and it records fine(as long as I leave the DVR on when recording).


Any suggestions?


Todd
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tws1958 /forum/post/18879432


I read the thread under Record & Copy to HDD and the "Recording/Copying from a STB or STB/DVR ...... TIPS FOR STB/DVR/DTA USERS" thread , but am still getting a E25 error that it cannot record. This is for the magnavox 2160 and is hooked up to a Comcast STB(no DVR) RNG110, via composite cables to L1 or L2(tried both) and seems to work initially, but then when I set it to kick off over night, it gives the E25 next to the Timer recordings slot. I also have a Philips 3575 hooked to a Comcast DVR and it records fine(as long as I leave the DVR on when recording).


Any suggestions?


Todd

Are you using a HDMI connection between the RNG110 and the TV?


Are you using a HDMI connection between the 2160 and the TV?


With HDMI activation/connectivity you're more susceptible to "handshake" and "copy protection" issues.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by labnpei /forum/post/18877248


hi guys, i have a question for all of you. a month ago i cancelled cable and am using an ota for both of my samsung lcd tv's-is it worth buying the 2160 so i can record football games in the fall? at some point i may go back to cable but am pretty disgusted with their price hikes and i see it will also work with cable. is the pictureqquality of the recordings decent on the 2160? thanks guys

labnpei -


As to your question "is the pictureqquality of the recordings decent on the 2160?", my answer would be an unqualified YES. However, picture quality is a very subjective topic. You mention having two Samsung LCD TV's. What size are they? 19 inch or 82 inch? What are their native resolutions? etc., etc., etc.


All my TV viewing is OTA, and from my personal experience, I have found PQ of the H2160 to be outstanding. I cannot see any difference in PQ between a live 1080i local news broadcast and that same program recorded on the H2160A at SP speed. (Neither do I see any difference in PQ between recordings made using either the HQ or the SP speeds, when viewed on my Samsung 32" 720p HDTV.)


Keep in mind the H2160's (and the new MDR513H) both have built-in ATSC/NTSC tuner's which are SD (Standard Definition) not HD (High Definition). Therefore, if your Samsung's are in the "large" category, the PQ you see may be reduced.


Something else to mull over. In the new 3D HDTV's, unless your actually watching a 3D Blue-ray (1920 x 2160 resolution) movie, a 3D broadcast from cable or satellite wll be 960 x 1080 resolution, so each eye will see its own 540p image about half the resolution of 1080p. (That's close to SD (standard definition) of 480i) Then there's the scaling problem of trying to match dot-for-dot in LCD's with 720p or 1080p native-resolution, to non-native resolution material.


As I said, PQ is a very personal and subjective thing, but I think you'll find the H2160 a great addition to your entertainment center.


ww
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by labnpei /forum/post/18877248


hi guys, i have a question for all of you. a month ago i cancelled cable and am using an ota for both of my samsung lcd tv's-is it worth buying the 2160 so i can record football games in the fall? at some point i may go back to cable but am pretty disgusted with their price hikes and i see it will also work with cable. is the pictureqquality of the recordings decent on the 2160? thanks guys

The quality of playback is very high and, while not HD, you would have to do a side-by-side comparison to see the differences. Especially with Fox and ABC still sending out 720p. But.


Is your cable clear QAM for the channels you want? Are you using your TV speakers? If yes to both, then get a one new from Walmart for $200 and I doubt you will regret it.


You haven't said if you will be going the cable HD path. If not and you are going to rent their box, you will be getting an SD cable signal at 480i and this discussion is probably not needed since the quality is the same live or with the 2160. Depends on who has the best scalar chip.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuzzo /forum/post/18877726


help with play back issues.. with the Mag 2160a

in the pause TV mode.. during play back.. there is a section of the recording that is stopping briefly like there is a fault in the HDD or something.. it pixulates..sp and continues to play the about a min later this happens again.. screen freezes and the pixulates a bit.. and continues to play..


i really like this machine and this has only started to happen..

any ideas for a fix.. short of sending it back?

All channels? Certain channels? Your cable feed may have been getting bad data from the source. I had to scrap the USA network SD signal last weekend due to severe pixelation. I called Tuesday. I was fixed the next day. NBC/U seems the worst offender. Nice that those channels will be owned by Comcast soon. We can all look forward to that.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo /forum/post/18879501


Are you using a HDMI connection between the RNG110 and the TV?


Are you using a HDMI connection between the 2160 and the TV?


With HDMI activation/connectivity you're more susceptible to "handshake" and "copy protection" issues.



I have both connected. I saw the thread talking about this, but the only outputs on the STB is HDMI, Composite or component. So I ran the Composite to the 2160 to the L1(tried L2 also with same result). I unplugged the HDMI from the 2160 and tried to record, but no luck. I unplugged the HDMI on the STB and tried to record with no luck. Do I have to remove both HDMIs at the same time? I cannot really do this as the wife would go ballistic as she already complains the setup and function is too hard to remember...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff /forum/post/18876310


Can the 2160a be configured to stretch 4:3 to 16:9? The 3575 has that option but I couldn't find such a setting on the 2160a.

I think the 3575(and DVD players in general) do a better job than having the TV do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18876339


It's the same TV Aspect setting as in the 3575, as described here.

Wow that link is a handful
I share your rant about aspect ratios.

All I know is when he plays 4:3 DVDs on his Philips(displayed on his 16:9 TV via HDMI) it fills his screen with the TV set to normal. When he plays the same DVDs on his Magnavox(also via HDMI with his TV set to normal) he sees a 4:3 picture with black bars on the left and right. He can set his TV to wide to fill his screen but the 3575 seems to do a better job stretching than his TV(or he seems to think so).

He likes the way the Philips behaves but I couldn't find a setting in the Magnavox to make it like the Philips
 

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Discussion Starter #9,949

Quote:
Originally Posted by tws1958 /forum/post/18880047


I have both connected. I saw the thread talking about this, but the only outputs on the STB is HDMI, Composite or component. So I ran the Composite to the 2160 to the L1(tried L2 also with same result). I unplugged the HDMI from the 2160 and tried to record, but no luck. I unplugged the HDMI on the STB and tried to record with no luck. Do I have to remove both HDMIs at the same time? I cannot really do this as the wife would go ballistic as she already complains the setup and function is too hard to remember...

Something simple to try, an "ordered" power-on:


1. Turn everything off and leave HDMI connection to TV and composite connection from RNG to 2160 in, as before.

2. Turn RNG on and wait till it's up and running.

3. Turn TV on.

4. Turn 2160 on.

5. See if anything changes?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tws1958 /forum/post/18880047


I have both connected. I saw the thread talking about this, but the only outputs on the STB is HDMI, Composite or component. So I ran the Composite to the 2160 to the L1(tried L2 also with same result). I unplugged the HDMI from the 2160 and tried to record, but no luck. I unplugged the HDMI on the STB and tried to record with no luck. Do I have to remove both HDMIs at the same time? I cannot really do this as the wife would go ballistic as she already complains the setup and function is too hard to remember...

On the 2160 remote there is a HDMI button. Press that button to deactivate HDMI for the 2160 itself. Then try recording to see if you continue to get the E25. If you wife complains just reconnect the HDMI cable and press the HDMI button to re-activate that connection.


I've read that HDMI connectivity of any kind establishes certain handshake protocals. Some of those protocals have to do with "copy protection." I'm just suggesting that this might have something to do with your E25 situation. I don't use HDMI connectivity so I have no personal experience in this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #9,951

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff /forum/post/18880252


Wow that link is a handful
I share your rant about aspect ratios.

All I know is when he plays 4:3 DVDs on his Philips(displayed on his 16:9 TV via HDMI) it fills his screen with the TV set to normal. When he plays the same DVDs on his Magnavox(also via HDMI with his TV set to normal) he sees a 4:3 picture with black bars on the left and right. He can set his TV to wide to fill his screen but the 3575 seems to do a better job stretching than his TV(or he seems to think so).

He likes the way the Philips behaves but I couldn't find a setting in the Magnavox to make it like the Philips

Hmm, just to reconfirm, I played an old 4:3 VHS transfer from both my 3575 and 2160 and got the same result. 3575/2160 TV Aspect setting has no effect on a 4:3 program, but I played with both settings anyway:


1. With TV on Wide, got stretched pic to fill the screen.


2. With TV on Normal, got 4:3 pic with bars on sides.


Got the same result thru all four HDMI formats.


Only odd screen-fill occurred when I accidentally pressed the TV's Zoom button.


Can't explain the diff. he sees.
 

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Thanks for trying, someday I may experiment by switching the HDMI inputs on his TV. It's possible they act differently. Until then he knows how to use the TVs wide button if need be.

Now that I think about it I wonder if one is setup to upconvert to HD while the other is setup for 480i output, that would make sense. Many times TVs will handle SD or HD inputs differently, that's probably it
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff /forum/post/18880252


...I couldn't find a setting in the Magnavox to make it like the Philips

As mentioned earlier, the Philips and Maggie have exactly the same control settings in exactly the same place in the menus.


Using the Maggie's menus, go where you found the aspect ratio controls on the Philips. They'll be right there.
 

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hi guys, as i said i am now using ota only-i have a 46" samsung lcd and a 52". both are very good picture quality using my antennas. both are relatively new-one is 2 years old and the other i purchased last year. if/when i go back to cable it would be hd. i just want something decent i can use to record and be able to use if/when i go back to cable and for ota. i don't want to pay a monthly fee to use it to record shows either, that seems like a waste of money to me. so any suggestions or opinions are welcomed. thanks guys
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by labnpei /forum/post/18881952


hi guys, as i said i am now using ota only-i have a 46" samsung lcd and a 52". both are very good picture quality using my antennas. both are relatively new-one is 2 years old and the other i purchased last year. if/when i go back to cable it would be hd. i just want something decent i can use to record and be able to use if/when i go back to cable and for ota. i don't want to pay a monthly fee to use it to record shows either, that seems like a waste of money to me. so any suggestions or opinions are welcomed. thanks guys


No answers to replies to your post #9940?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by labnpei /forum/post/18881952


hi guys, as i said i am now using ota only-i have a 46" samsung lcd and a 52". both are very good picture quality using my antennas. both are relatively new-one is 2 years old and the other i purchased last year. if/when i go back to cable it would be hd. i just want something decent i can use to record and be able to use if/when i go back to cable and for ota. i don't want to pay a monthly fee to use it to record shows either, that seems like a waste of money to me. so any suggestions or opinions are welcomed. thanks guys

Any DVDR that you purchase today will work fine for OTA recording at SD quality. Buying a 2160 or 513 will not give you a HD recording today or when you go back to HD cable. They will do a fine job of recording an HD signal in SD though.
 

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Hi, I just picked up a Philips sru4208wm/17 at Walmart on clearance. Just wanted everyone to know this works the 2160 perfectly with the Magnavox DVD+R new code. I just had to program a few functions like the HDD, DVD, skip, etc. I'm writing because when I searched this thread there have been few success stories with cheap remotes. Is there a list buried here of ones known to work?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirayge /forum/post/18885001


Hi, I just picked up a Philips sru4208wm/17 at Walmart on clearance. Just wanted everyone to know this works the 2160 perfectly with the Magnavox DVD+R new code. I just had to program a few functions like the HDD, DVD, skip, etc. I'm writing because when I searched this thread there have been few success stories with cheap remotes. Is there a list buried here of ones known to work?

It's a good idea! perhaps that's another category on Wajo's first page. Here are the 2 cheap remotes that I've used with the 2160/A successfully. Like you've experienced, I only had to program a few special buttons that the 2160 has, most of the DVDR-type buttons work right away.


Sony RM-V610

URC- 8820N
 

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Discussion Starter #9,959



Universal Remotes

Is anyone using a Universal Remote? If so, please post this info, as listed, so it's easy to read and compare:
  1. Remote model #.
  2. ALL Philips/Mag DVDR model(s) that CAN use this remote (not just the ones YOU currently use it on).
  3. Code(s), if any.
  4. Any special tips on programming, ops, etc.

Discrete Source Commands - People needing a program command to directly select an external input on these DVDRs can use the "Source" button command if they use E1/L1 only since that's always the input first selected when pressing that button. Another command for direct selection is the PhilMag keypad numbers 001 for E1/L1 and 002 for E2/L2.

 
JP1 Programmable RemotesHere's a chart of JP1 remotes. Wiki info is here.
Member mdavej has many resources for JP1 remotes. See his AVS Signature here for links.
Open the Spoiler window below to see mdavej's list of codes for the Mag DVDRs. Here are his instructions .
These codes work on any UEI (One-for-all, RCA RCRP05B, Atlas, Comcast, Acoustic Research, Cox, Slingbox, Vizio, etc. - about 60 models in all) using DVD code 0675 (20675). (Click to show) Command EFC

Power 00169

num_0 00038

num_1 00168

num_2 00166

num_3 00170

num_4 00037

num_5 00041

num_6 00039

num_7 00043

num_8 00036

num_9 00040

CH+ 00148

CH- 00152

Exit 00139

Menu 00137

Info 00154

up_arrow 00138

down_arrow 00005

left_arrow 00136

right_arrow 00134

Select 00135

Play 00230

Pause 00235

rewind 00103

ffwd 00107

Stop 00197

Record 00026

Clear 00229

Eject 00164

Chapter+ 00234

Chapter- 00232

. 00062

Audio 00011

DTV/TV 00064

Dubbing 00023

HDMI 00105

Input DVD 00125

Input HDD 00129

Main Menu 00132

Rapid Plan 00021

Record Mode 00025

Repeat 00101

Skip- 00255

Skip+ 00003

Source 00150

Space 00038

Timer 00151
 
Comcast Remote - vickyg2003 operates some functions of her Mag 515 (and by default all the Mag HDD DVDRS) with Code 0675 on her "Comcast remote." More info here.
 
Dish Remote - Millom98 found a code, 661, for his VIP211k Dish satellite remote that works for playback (no recording) with his Mag 515. More info here.
 
Originally Posted by dspman /forum/post/21434571
 
  1. Philips SRP5105WM/17
  2. Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 1056.
  4. A good replacement currently (Jan 2012) selling at WalMart for $10. Funai code 1056 found most of the buttons without reprogramming, and other essential buttons easily learned if still working on original remote.


    Also works on Mag ZV457MG9 DVDR/VCR combo, same code. I bought two of these remotes instead of paying $20 for a single H2160 remote replacement. The original remote now stored only for backup and to reprogram buttons, as reqd.


    Also works on Dish/Echostar DVR625 (Code 3966).


    He has lots more info on Mag programming, etc. here.
 
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/21775101

 
  1. Philips SRP5107WM/17
  2. Code, Device, Device button
    1. Code 3211, Vizio HDTV, TV button (operates 3 diff. models here).
    2. Code 1056, Mags, DVR button.
    3. Code 2195, Philips, DVD button.
    4. Code 2153, Panny AV, AUX button.
  3. Lots more info & pics here.


    3/13/12 - I just set up the next gen. of this 7-device Philips learning remote, SRP5107WM/17 to replace FOUR remotes previously used with my main stack.


    Operates my 3575, 2160, 513 and 515, plus my Vizio HDTV and old Panasonic AV receiver. Codes for over 625 brands, 60 buttons max memory. Nice shape and feel. 11 DVDR/TV/AVR-specific buttons needed learning from those remotes. It controls TV audio while using any other device.


    Most importantly, my "I-don't-like-new-things" wife/CFO LIKES IT! Took her one night to get used to it.
 
Originally Posted by mirayge /forum/post/18886338

 
  1. SRU4208WM/17
  2. Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 1542.
  4. Look for your code under DVD-Recorders if no code under combo devices then program a couple of unused Tivo buttons to switch between HDD and DVD modes. Only thing I use the original remote for is titles. Adds volume control for TV or sound system.
 
Originally Posted by bodhi78 /forum/post/18888275

 
  1. URC- 8820N.
  2. Mag 2160/2160A/513.
  3. Code 0675.
  4. Had to program a few special buttons that the 2160 has but most of the DVDR-type buttons work right away. It has one specific feature that is great for channel surfing, especially after a channel scan: the "fav" button. Using this "fav" button after a channel scan, you can put the surf in automatic mode, and it will cycle through all channels automatically, no need to push channel button one by one. So, after you've done a AON Procedure , or perhaps just want to see what QAM channels were added or moved around by your cableco, you can use this button to start surfing. Each channel is displayed briefly for about 3 seconds (press "fav' again to stop and press "fav" to continue).
  1. Sony RM-V610.
  2. Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 0220, but need to learn many buttons after assigning code.
  4. Even though one Sony code works, the button mapping has some weird assignments so I've learned ~50% of the buttons to match them more closely to the OEM button names or positions.


    Even after Sony has added more DVR-type buttons to the VL610 (e.g. Page+, Page-, List,...), it still does not have a dedicated "Live" or "Pause Live TV" button. However, this remote has so many buttons (63) that it's easy to exactly match the 2160 buttons, except for the 2160-specific ones like DTV/TV, HDD, DVD. I think the only way we can fully duplicate the 2160 remote buttons is using a more expensive remote that has LCD screen and soft buttons. These days, refurbished Harmony remotes that can do this can be purchased for 30 to 60 bucks.
 
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/0

 
  1. Sony RM-VL600.
  2. Philips 3575/3576.
  3. Code: (don't remember).
  4. Worked but needs 13 more buttons to make it useable by non-gearheads. Underwhelmed my wife, as described in #6 here!
 
Originally Posted by scott967 /forum/post/18885524

 
  1. Logitech Harmony 620.
  2. Mag 2160/2160A/513/515 (tested on 2160A).
  3. Code: in Harmony online database.
  4. Didn't have to learn any codes. Harmony is "activity centric" so I only program those buttons needed for a particular activity. The main thing to watch for (true for all devices controlled) is if you change activities, Harmony default is to turn off any device not needed in the new activity. So if you want the DVDR to remain powered up (for example to keep the catch-up buffer) you will have to program that.
 
Originally Posted by JimLely /forum/post/18887826

 
  1. URC 8810 ($18 from WalMart @ 2002 and comes with jp1 connector).
  2. Philips 3575/3576 and Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 1340 and 0675, respectively.
    jp1 download for Philips 3575/3576.
    jp1 download for 2160/2160A/513.
  4. You'll need a special cable with a JP1 female on one end and a USB or serial port connection on the other end (whichever fits your PC), to get the usable file into the remote from your PC. Also, you'll need to "massage" the file prior to its importation so it's tailored for your particular JP1 remote (free software to do this is provided online). Be prepared to do some studying of the procedures to do this.
 
Originally Posted by sydyen /forum/post/18917192



One For All makes the 8810 and 8820 remotes already mentioned for this list, and the latest introduction comes as two models:
  1. RCA RCRP05B ($15 at Sears Item# 05714879000).
  2. Philips 3575/3576 and Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 1340 and 0675, respectively.
    jp1 download for Philips 3575/3576.
    jp1 download for 2160/2160A/513.
  4. You'll need a special cable with a JP1 female on one end and a USB or serial port connection on the other end (whichever fits your PC), to get the usable file into the remote from your PC. Also, you'll need to "massage" the file prior to its importation so it's tailored for your particular JP1 remote (free software to do this is provided online). Be prepared to do some studying of the procedures to do this.
  1. OFA OARP05S ($14 at Meijers).
  2. Philips 3575/3576 and Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Code: 1340 and 0675, respectively.
    jp1 download for Philips 3575/3576.
    jp1 download for 2160/2160A/513.
  4. You'll need a special cable with a JP1 female on one end and a USB or serial port connection on the other end (whichever fits your PC), to get the usable file into the remote from your PC. Also, you'll need to "massage" the file prior to its importation so it's tailored for your particular JP1 remote (free software to do this is provided online). Be prepared to do some studying of the procedures to do this.


    The codes for both remotes are for DVDRs and only provide a handful of commands for a DVR (not even channels or channel numbers). On the plus side, the learning capability helps you customize as much as wanted, and the JP1 connector means you can control just about every key by uploading from your computer.


    FWIW, these remotes have lots of buttons, so no worries about finding homes for the special/unusual Funai buttons.
 
Originally Posted by Kex /forum/post/19004369

 
  1. Logitech Harmony 720.
  2. Philips 3575/3576 and Mag 2160/2160A/513/515.
  3. Harmony online database.
  4. Tips on programming, ops, etc.:

 
  1. Using the channel +/- buttons for the skip forward/back feature meant much more intuitive skipping through commercials for me. I swapped these with the FF and RWD buttons, since I never really skip forward by one channel.
  2. I found setting the skip forward time at 30s, and skip back at 15s the best method to skip through commercials, and then skip back if I go too far.
  3. I set up one activity to watch TV, and a second activity to manage the recorder, since when in watch TV mode, most of the buttons such as "info" and "menu" pull up sattelite TV operations (if you use sat, of course), not those related to the recorder. Switching from either activity while watching is seamless, and never messes anything up.
  4. It's useful to add some convenient recorder commands to the LCD custom menu screen when in TV watching mode. The ones I found most useful were:

 
  1. "Recording info" (the equivalent of pressing "info" or "Display" on the recorder remote), since the regular hard "info/display" button is already assigned to satellite info, and ...
  2. "Pause Mode ON" sequence macro, which basically presses the "Pause Live TV button" twice so that Live TV starts recording and gets immediately paused... this for the 3575/3576 only, which requires the double press (2160/513 are single press). Since pressing the button twice at once does not register, I added a "HDD mode" command in between the two "Pause Live TV" presses to create an artificial delay. When I've pressed this macro sequence once, I can then use the regular Pause and Play buttons to do anything I want during chase play.
 

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/18885342


A good idea... only universal mentioned in the help files to this point was my story of a Sony RM-VL600 which underwhelmed my wife (#6 here) !

Even after Sony has added more DVR-type buttons to the VL610 (e.g. Page+, Page-, List,...), it still does not have a dedicated "Live" or "Pause Live TV" button. However, this remote has so many buttons (63) that it's easy to exactly match the 2160 buttons, except for the 2160-specific ones like DTV/TV, HDD, DVD. I think the only way we can fully duplicate the 2160 remote buttons is using a more expensive remote that has LCD screen and soft buttons. These days, refurbished Harmony remotes that can do this can be purchased for 30 to 60 bucks.
 
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