Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
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Stapler1234,
Yes, I could hear the power come on and feel the vibration of the HDD. I have the 2160A and have bought a replacement, however, have not replaced the HDD yet.
I am frustrated with trying to figure out how to get the shows off the original HDD.
Thanks.
Yes, I could hear the power come on and feel the vibration of the HDD. I have the 2160A and have bought a replacement, however, have not replaced the HDD yet.
I am frustrated with trying to figure out how to get the shows off the original HDD.
Thanks.
You can try "cloning" the drive byte by byte. This avoids any damaged sectors, since it will not "copy" the corrupted bytes. If it does a successful clone, then your new drive should have the recordings. If the cloning software does not recognize the drive, then that means the platters are not readable. Somtimes it is a corrupted file system from damaged sectors, that will cause the error, and cloning avoids these errors while the firmware of the 2160A is unable to.
You can try "cloning" the drive byte by byte. This avoids any damaged sectors, since it will not "copy" the corrupted bytes. If it does a successful clone, then your new drive should have the recordings. If the cloning software does not recognize the drive, then that means the platters are not readable. Somtimes it is a corrupted file system from damaged sectors, that will cause the error, and cloning avoids these errors while the firmware of the 2160A is unable to.
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Been watching the forums for awhile but never posted. Have to say that the list of threads have helped quite a bit. Even these later posts are of great assistance so I thought I'd give a great big thank you. Have had many problems with used camcorders solved through browsing the forums.
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As I see it, you have two problems. (1) Get the 2160A back in service and (2) try and retrieve the programs recorded on the original HDD. The question is, which one do you want to tackle first?
The 2160A HDD replacement should be a relatively easy chore, provided you follow the posted instructions/suggestions in "Getting Started with HDD Replacement or Upgrade" at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ount=39#HDDrep .
Attempting the retrevial of your recordings on the old HDD may turn out to be a long involved project, requiring specialized software, considerable computer skills and a lot of patience, all of which may or may not result in a successful recovery. Hopefully members like timtofly can assist you in that recovery project.
As a start, you may want to do a search of this thread, for if memory serves me, some months ago a number of members posted suggestions & proceedurers on recovering/transferring programs from one HDD to another.
Meanwhile, check the thread by PeterTheGeek "Hard Disk File System investigation for the Magnavox 2080/2160/513", listed at the bottom of this page under 'Similar Threads'. The technical data shown may be useful should you attempt a recovery project.
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Note: The error code E48 you reported indicates the 2160A doesn't see a HDD. There could be many reasons for that, such as a loose connection or the failure of another system component, not just a defective HDD. (Error codes listed here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...10&postcount=5 )
As I see it, you have two problems. (1) Get the 2160A back in service and (2) try and retrieve the programs recorded on the original HDD. The question is, which one do you want to tackle first?
The 2160A HDD replacement should be a relatively easy chore, provided you follow the posted instructions/suggestions in "Getting Started with HDD Replacement or Upgrade" at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ount=39#HDDrep .
Attempting the retrevial of your recordings on the old HDD may turn out to be a long involved project, requiring specialized software, considerable computer skills and a lot of patience, all of which may or may not result in a successful recovery. Hopefully members like timtofly can assist you in that recovery project.
As a start, you may want to do a search of this thread, for if memory serves me, some months ago a number of members posted suggestions & proceedurers on recovering/transferring programs from one HDD to another.
Meanwhile, check the thread by PeterTheGeek "Hard Disk File System investigation for the Magnavox 2080/2160/513", listed at the bottom of this page under 'Similar Threads'. The technical data shown may be useful should you attempt a recovery project.
_______________
Note: The error code E48 you reported indicates the 2160A doesn't see a HDD. There could be many reasons for that, such as a loose connection or the failure of another system component, not just a defective HDD. (Error codes listed here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...10&postcount=5 )
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CP-Filters/Widescreen Converters & the "Analog Sunset"
The "Analog Sunset" (aka "Analog Hole")
Here's a good explanation of the often-misunderstood "analog sunset."
It's a licensing agreement between content owners and CE mfgrs that applies to a narrow equipment category (BD) and NOT other equipment. As stated on pg 2 of the pdf doc:
"... analog sunset is also a narrowly defined, regulatory term whereby the performance and behavior of specific types of A/V equipment, namely Bluray Disc (BD) players and recorders, are restricted in a legally binding manner, and this term is not applicable to other equipment."
The Sunset regulation DOES NOT APPLY TO CABLE/SAT STBs (receivers and DVRs), per specific PROHIBITION in the reg, with one exception as noted below:
"The analog outputs of cable or satellite TV set-top boxes, including receivers or DVRs, are sometimes improperly associated with the analog sunset. In the United States, the FCC has a regulation, 47 CFR 76.1903, that explicitly prohibits the disabling of analog outputs on cable and satellite set-top boxes.... " One exception granted: analog outputs can only be disabled for "newly created VOD, or video-on-demand services wherein first-run movies are made available before release on disc."
HDMI>Composite/S-Video Converter
For defeating copy protection (CP) from DVD players, DVDRs and STB/DVRs and concurrently preserving widescreen aspect from Motorola STB/DVRs and others. Source must have HDMI output. Should also future-proof you for the "analog sunset" on BD players/recorders (explained in the section above). Unfortunately, lots of counterfeiters out there, so picking a reasonably priced good one can be problematic.
Long ago, I tested an HDMI converter that works well in my system, but today there are MANY of these units of varying quality, including many counterfeits. The one I have is this one, although now discontinued. Here's another HDMI converter that might or might not be OK. Newest HDMI converter recommended by several AVS members is this one,
Component>Composite/S-Video Converter
For defeating CP from DVD players, DVDRs and STB/DVRs, and concurrently preserving widescreen aspect from Motorola STB/DVRs and others. Source must have Component RGB output. Should also future-proof you for the "analog sunset" on BD players/recorders (explained in the section above). Unfortunately, lots of counterfeiters out there, so picking a reasonably priced good one can be problematic.
Here's a Monoprice converter used by many AVS members. Google for others but (make sure unit(s) of interest say "Component to Composite" not vice versa). For copying from cable/sat STB/DVR, check effect of STB resolution setting (try various).
Video Stabilizer for VHS/DVD Players and Other Sources
For defeating CP from all VHS tapes, most DVDs, and other sources delivered over composite Yellow RCA... or *all* DVDs with internal pot adjustment, "RW1" on circuit board inside. Source must have Composite Yellow RCA output. Can't preserve WS aspect from STB/DVR cuz it only has composite input, and it needs Component or HDMI input which are the only STB/DVR outputs that preserve WS aspect. Several varieties of these units are sold here (direct from mfgr, lowest price, I esp. like the Generation III unit's specs incl. the "God plated RCA connectors"
.Grex Video Stabilizer (Israeli mfgr, now at Amazon)
Strips CP from composite/S-Video/Component RGB sources. It MAY preserve WS aspect from STBs via its Component RGB output but I have no definitive usage info on that aspect. There are several threads on the Grex on AVS Forum related to CP stripping, like this one.
DP-X7000 Stabilizer
Strips CP from composite/S-Video/Component RGB sources. It MAY preserve WS aspect from STBs via its Component RGB output but I have no definitive usage info on that aspect. Tested & approved for CP stripping by others, see post #37 and #42 here.
* * * * * * *
Another list just for STB/DVR users is here (repeats first two above, adds others).
With all these units, don't give up on 1st try!
Can the Mag's 6-hour buffer strip CP? NO! Buffer Can't Save CP'd Stuff to HDD without Stabilizer. While you can view buffered CP'd stuff from an external source, you can't Save it to HDD w/o a filter/stabilizer in between. I tested this on a CP'd DVD from a player to a Mag 2160.
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I used mostly 2-hr-SP since most of my VHS and DVD movies were 2 hours or less, but I also used 2-1/2-hour SPP and 3-hour-LP. I've found no problem using SPP or other lower-quality rec modes if the source is good, like a digital/HD channel or a DVD movie.
I'd stick to SP whenever possible, but don't hesitate to go to SPP for longer things, even VHS. I did one of my VHS tests at LP (by accident) and it looked almost as good as SP except on the opening text/credits, which were just slightly more fuzzy edged.
You CAN do a short rec to HDD or to DVD at any rec mode to test its quality, then just delete that title at the end. A 2-3 sec test-rec even to DVD (deleted later, before finalizing) won't take up too much space and might help you decide if you're "close" on time and not sure.
My VHS copies were so good with the video stabilizer that I left it in line even for copying my home movies to DVD.
I don't see any real value in using a higher-than-necessary rec mode if you don't plan to project it to a 100" screen. I tested all my stuff on a 47" LCD.
My transfers were from the source to HDD AND direct to DVD. In fact, all my VHS transfers with the video stabilizer were direct-to-DVD (DTD), as described here.
If you use the DTD method, you can get slightly more on a DVD than even HSD, as shown in the "RTR Times" listed here.
I used mostly 2-hr-SP since most of my VHS and DVD movies were 2 hours or less, but I also used 2-1/2-hour SPP and 3-hour-LP. I've found no problem using SPP or other lower-quality rec modes if the source is good, like a digital/HD channel or a DVD movie.
I'd stick to SP whenever possible, but don't hesitate to go to SPP for longer things, even VHS. I did one of my VHS tests at LP (by accident) and it looked almost as good as SP except on the opening text/credits, which were just slightly more fuzzy edged.
You CAN do a short rec to HDD or to DVD at any rec mode to test its quality, then just delete that title at the end. A 2-3 sec test-rec even to DVD (deleted later, before finalizing) won't take up too much space and might help you decide if you're "close" on time and not sure.
My VHS copies were so good with the video stabilizer that I left it in line even for copying my home movies to DVD.
I don't see any real value in using a higher-than-necessary rec mode if you don't plan to project it to a 100" screen. I tested all my stuff on a 47" LCD.
My transfers were from the source to HDD AND direct to DVD. In fact, all my VHS transfers with the video stabilizer were direct-to-DVD (DTD), as described here.
If you use the DTD method, you can get slightly more on a DVD than even HSD, as shown in the "RTR Times" listed here.
I always use SP for pretty much everything, especially tape dubs as I don't think the top quality mode will help VHS tape quality at all and just wastes disk space. Like Wajo said, do a few quick test recordings and decide for yourself what quality vs space level your willing to live with. I've mostly been doing captures in HD with my HDTV card now, then I edit them down and redo them to HD MPG quality. Hopefully Funai will read all our wish lists and make a newer deck with BD and HD recording etc
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For anyone interested, Walmart lowered the price for a NEW MDR515H to $219.88!
What a deal!!!
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http://www.walmart.com/ip/Magnavox-M...ndingMethod=rr
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Oops...AND Amazon!
What a deal!!!
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Magnavox-M...ndingMethod=rr
Oops...AND Amazon!
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