Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
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My use case for +RW, besides being able to skip the finalization step, is dubbing of multiple titles from Funai to Pioneer. Dub list is not available on my Pioneer 460 for DVD-RW to HD, but is for DVD+RW to HD. Using +RW means I can set a whole disc of 30+ plus titles to dub to Pioneer right before bed, and they'll all be done in the AM. From -RW, each has to be dubbed via OTC separately, quite a bit less efficient since I have to baby-sit to get them all done.
I thought I had read you have at least one Pioneer. If this is the case, I'm surprised you've never had DVD+RW unless that's because yours predate Pioneer support for DVD+RW discs.
My use case for +RW, besides being able to skip the finalization step, is dubbing of multiple titles from Funai to Pioneer. Dub list is not available on my Pioneer 460 for DVD-RW to HD, but is for DVD+RW to HD. Using +RW means I can set a whole disc of 30+ plus titles to dub to Pioneer right before bed, and they'll all be done in the AM. From -RW, each has to be dubbed via OTC separately, quite a bit less efficient since I have to baby-sit to get them all done.
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14,210 Posts
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I updated the "Operating One Unit in A Multi-Unit System" help file :
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I updated the "Operating One Unit in A Multi-Unit System" help file :
Quote:
|Update: I've recently found the "perfect" barrier everyone has readily available: a greeting card! It's already scored so it folds nicely over the front panel (FP) window.
I cut the card down and made it longer so it now covers from the left edge of the lift-up cover all the way OVER the clock to make sure no stray IR gets to the sensor.
This was AFTER we deleted some unwatched titles on both my 3575's cuz there was a small gap in the wrong place... my wife CFO's fault!![]()
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Pretty close to the hour they claim, but that might be a hdwe addition they made in the 515?
If someone with a V2160A or V513 loses clock in 5-10 min., then it IS prob a hdwe thing in the 515.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely /forum/post/21135578
With my V2160A set to "Auto Clock OFF" and the power disconnected for 55 minutes, I lost the clock![]()
Pretty close to the hour they claim, but that might be a hdwe addition they made in the 515?
If someone with a V2160A or V513 loses clock in 5-10 min., then it IS prob a hdwe thing in the 515.
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I did the V2160A update.
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I am happy to have my weekly programs labeled, and will be glad for the skip recording feature this holiday season. Thanks to the daring souls who went first.
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5,876 Posts
If you burn a lot of discs and have several timer recordings set you'll really appreciate the skip feature. It lets you quickly disable an upcoming timer recording so you can dub and finalize DVDs whenever you want. Don't forget to turn off skip when you are finished.
If you burn a lot of discs and have several timer recordings set you'll really appreciate the skip feature. It lets you quickly disable an upcoming timer recording so you can dub and finalize DVDs whenever you want. Don't forget to turn off skip when you are finished.
My MDR515H is JUST out of warranty and the HDD is making noises. Sounds like bearing problem and playback display is getting fuzzy.
1) Can I replace hard drive or must I send to Funai?
2) Is there a way to connect an external hard drive instead?
3) Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
1) Can I replace hard drive or must I send to Funai?
2) Is there a way to connect an external hard drive instead?
3) Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
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You can replace the internal drive or set up a dock-and-play system (or single-drive enclosure).
All you need to know to get started is in this help file.
You can replace the internal drive or set up a dock-and-play system (or single-drive enclosure).
All you need to know to get started is in this help file.
I'm writing for both myself and a friend of mine, although mostly for my friend. She has the 515 and I still have the older 2160A. Both of us have encountered the glitch with these machines such that after a power outage for some time the machine just doesn't want to start up again, but is frozen. This is quite scarey when you're new to the machine and unfamiliar with this. I've read through Wajo's wonderful user guide and now know that you have to pull the plug and wait a while until the power backup is drained.
My friend, with the 515, seems to have more power outages during storms than I do, so she's run into this problem a couple of times. After reading Wajo's guide, I was able to advise her that she needed to pull the plug on her model and leave it unplugged for up to two hours or more. She's done that, once or twice leaving it unplugged all night. But she reported that once she replugged the machine she had problems getting it going again. It didn't seem to instantly start up. She would just keep hitting various buttons on the remote with no results until eventually it started up. She was uncertain on what to do to get it going again. I ran into this same problem once, and I remember I also had the same problem with my 2160A not wanting to play nice and start up right away. Nor do I remember what I did that got it going again. Again, this stuff can be scarey because you're worried your machine has been toasted.
So I'm writing for advice on exactly just what to do in these instances to get the machine up and running again. Thanks in advance.
My friend, with the 515, seems to have more power outages during storms than I do, so she's run into this problem a couple of times. After reading Wajo's guide, I was able to advise her that she needed to pull the plug on her model and leave it unplugged for up to two hours or more. She's done that, once or twice leaving it unplugged all night. But she reported that once she replugged the machine she had problems getting it going again. It didn't seem to instantly start up. She would just keep hitting various buttons on the remote with no results until eventually it started up. She was uncertain on what to do to get it going again. I ran into this same problem once, and I remember I also had the same problem with my 2160A not wanting to play nice and start up right away. Nor do I remember what I did that got it going again. Again, this stuff can be scarey because you're worried your machine has been toasted.
So I'm writing for advice on exactly just what to do in these instances to get the machine up and running again. Thanks in advance.
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You're/she's forgetting one important step: hold the power button in on the front of the unit while replugging until you see P-On in the front panel display. This is a Soft Reset, as described here.
You only need to leave your 2160A unplugged for ~10 minutes or so.
I'd recommend a Uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Walmart carries a $45 APC UPS (battery backup) one that should work for a couple of pieces of equipment and keep the units in Standby mode for a few hours so they don't lose settings.
Here's an online page of APC UPS units with one only $34 (looks like the 200W one at Walmart that I paid $45 or more for recently). The higher watts, the longer it'll last for the low power draw of units in Standby mode (non-operating).
You're/she's forgetting one important step: hold the power button in on the front of the unit while replugging until you see P-On in the front panel display. This is a Soft Reset, as described here.
You only need to leave your 2160A unplugged for ~10 minutes or so.
I'd recommend a Uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Walmart carries a $45 APC UPS (battery backup) one that should work for a couple of pieces of equipment and keep the units in Standby mode for a few hours so they don't lose settings.
Here's an online page of APC UPS units with one only $34 (looks like the 200W one at Walmart that I paid $45 or more for recently). The higher watts, the longer it'll last for the low power draw of units in Standby mode (non-operating).
O.K., I tried power off for 5 minutes and lost the clock and the programming; so it seems that there was a hardware change on the 515. Regardless, the 'V' is a great breakthrough and I'm very appreciative of the brave souls who discovered this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely /forum/post/21135578
With my V2160A set to "Auto Clock OFF" and the power disconnected for 55 minutes, I lost the clock![]()
O.K., I tried power off for 5 minutes and lost the clock and the programming; so it seems that there was a hardware change on the 515. Regardless, the 'V' is a great breakthrough and I'm very appreciative of the brave souls who discovered this.
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Prevention easier than cure, though it takes money. I live in the lightning capital of the world, where power outages are more common than anywhere else in the industrialized world. Use a UPS, which provides superior surge protection in addition to minimizing down and reprogramming time. I have 8 of them, and equipment that I probably could never replace or repair if surge damaged. I only run into your problem when the power stays off longer than the UPS batteries support.
Prevention easier than cure, though it takes money. I live in the lightning capital of the world, where power outages are more common than anywhere else in the industrialized world. Use a UPS, which provides superior surge protection in addition to minimizing down and reprogramming time. I have 8 of them, and equipment that I probably could never replace or repair if surge damaged. I only run into your problem when the power stays off longer than the UPS batteries support.
Thanks Wajo and Mrmazda for your help! I now remember the Soft Reset, but I think I was confused about it at the first time I read it, something just didn't connect.
But now I'm confused again about something else:
I have a setup with 7 Audio-Video components hooked up, with the usual spaghetti of chords, to a power strip behind my setup and media stand, And although not as complicated as my setup, my friend has her equipment also hooked to a power strip behind her setup. So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?
Thanks Wajo and Mrmazda for your help! I now remember the Soft Reset, but I think I was confused about it at the first time I read it, something just didn't connect.
But now I'm confused again about something else:
I have a setup with 7 Audio-Video components hooked up, with the usual spaghetti of chords, to a power strip behind my setup and media stand, And although not as complicated as my setup, my friend has her equipment also hooked to a power strip behind her setup. So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?
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Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS) - Do You Need One?
If you have regular power outages and get annoyed at having to reset your clock and timer programs every time the power goes out, you might want to consider adding a UPS to your system.
Without a UPS, you can still increase your power-backup times by entering a "safe" channel # in the Auto Clock > Manual menu, which can increase your power-backup time from 30-sec to ~2½ min. or 1-hour to ~2½ hours in the 515/53x.
Finding the Right UPS for You
If you'd like to worry less about power and surge, here's an online page of APC-brand UPS units to start your research (change Location to your ZIP). On that page, click on any UPS you like and, on the page it brings up for that unit, click the far-right "Base Price" column to sort by price. Above that column is a "Change" link to select your preferred location for local stores. The $31 "APC Back-UPS ES 350G UPS - 200 Watt - Lead acid" unit at Amazon is the same 200W unit that I recently paid ~$49 for at my Walmart store. #1 UPS on Google Product Search is this 550VA 330W unit, cost ~$50 new from good seller, $60 from my nearby stores, >300 online stores.
Step-Approximated Sine Wave vs Pure Sine Wave
Many UPS selling today output a "flat-topped" sine wave (called Step-approximated) rather than a pure sine wave. As our equipment gets more sophisticated, especially with Energy Star requirements that have Active Power Factor Correction (PFC). Many people, including me, have found that the flat sine wave units run out of power FAST.
If you can afford it, it might be better for you to look for pure sine wave UPS's, like the Cyberpower units linked by this Amazon buyer who experienced fast loss of power by his APC UPS and got some good advice from the APC rep.
Number of Plug-ins
The cheaper the UPS the lower the number of battery backup plug-ins it has. My cheapo ES350 200W UPS has 3 battery backup plugs and 3 surge-only plugs, perfect for the 3 DVDRs I had in my main stack but not enough for the 4 I have now. The next models up, ES 450, 550 and 650, have 4 of each, the 750 has 5 of each, etc.
"Power Factor" - Voltage-Amps (VA) vs. Watts (W)
We only need to know the Watts as long as the UPS has a W/VA ratio of 55-75%. That percentage is the UPS's "Power Factor" (PF), as explained in this tech. article. If you see a PF closer to 1, it's a diff. UPS design and not comparable in runtime, etc. to those discussed here and in this thread.
Deciding on Standby (SB) or Operating (OP) Power
Your first decision: do you want to maintain SB power just to retain settings or OP power to operate your equipment during a power outage.
I don't have many full power outages here, so I opted for a small, 200W UPS. My goal is just to provide surge protection, power leveling thru sags and spikes, and power backup for SB for a SHORT power outage (less than 2 hours), just to retain settings and timer programs. Equally important was the fact that it was available from my local Walmart store... yes, I'm one of those low-class people who loves my local Walmart and doesn't hesitate to "step foot in" it and I wouldn't even mind being "caught dead" in it!
If I'm home when a power outage occurs, I'll turn my DVDRs off so they only draw SB power from the UPS battery. My HDTV is plugged into a surge-only plug-in, not a battery backup, but if it was, I'd unplug it.
If I'm not home and a timer rec starts, then power outage occurs, *no one* knows for sure whether our DVDRs will sense the nanosecond power "blip" at the switchover to battery power and stop the timer rec, or if it'll continue recording. If it continues recording, the UPS will only provide OP power until my 200W battery is used up. If power doesn't come back on before that time, I'll lose my settings, etc.... too bad, so sad.
SOME people with deep pockets get LARGE UPS's cuz they want to be able to OPERATE their DVDRs and TVs while the power is out. One person even has power inverters to keep the UPS's and some household appliances running.
Higher Watts = Higher Cost = Longer Runtime
The higher the wattage the more the UPS costs BUT the longer it will maintain SB or OP power in one of our DVDRs. SB power draw is spec'd at ~5.5-5.7W but measured by users at ~4.5-5W. OP power draw is spec'd at ~33W but measured by Ken.F at ~23-27W.
Unfortunately, it's NOT like measuring your household power, which is in kilowatt hours (kWh), or 1,000 watt-hours used as the billing unit of electric utilities. You can't directly correlate ACTUAL runtime of our equipment with the Wattage of a UPS. My 200W UPS will keep my four units in standby, with ~20W total power usage, for
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