Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
1941 - 1960 of 28067 Posts
Actually, I see that as a good thing. If they're moving the stock, then both WalMart and Magnavox will be happy with the "value" and keep making these things.
If they stop selling, then we could be in for problems, since they seem to be the last manufacturer marketing them. And with this econ0my - I doubt many folks will be willing to make things that aren't moving off the shelf quicky.
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/14820102
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Walmart Mag 2160 "Out of Stock Online" again!
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Actually, I see that as a good thing. If they're moving the stock, then both WalMart and Magnavox will be happy with the "value" and keep making these things.
If they stop selling, then we could be in for problems, since they seem to be the last manufacturer marketing them. And with this econ0my - I doubt many folks will be willing to make things that aren't moving off the shelf quicky.
Rick
Just received my new 3576 today and I was a little surprised to see that the Menus and OSD look identical to my Toshiba D-R400, except for some features the Toshiba doesn't have like HDD, Tuner, etc.
If you want to compare the similarities for the OSD just download the User's Guide for both units and look at page 14 for the D-R400 and page 22 for the 3576, also check some of the other pages to see what I mean.
My question here is, who makes who?
If you want to compare the similarities for the OSD just download the User's Guide for both units and look at page 14 for the D-R400 and page 22 for the 3576, also check some of the other pages to see what I mean.
My question here is, who makes who?
With these two units, once you have initially ran AutoScan to look for OTA Analog/Digital channels, you "CAN" then add channels "MANUALLY".
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Just turn the antenna in the direction you want to tune channels. My analog channel 4 KARK shows DTV ch. 4.1 once you enter the real channel of 32 on the UHF band. Type in the actual physical channel it is broadcasting on and the machine will re-map them to the channel you are used to seeing on analog except with a .1 or .2 behind the number and so on. I've seen some as high as .9. Just recently I found a channel from Eufaula Oklahoma, 3.1 OETA (PBS) which was tropo. The Towers are over 100 miles from me. The physical channel in the UHF band was 31, of the subs, .2, .8 and .9 were listed. It had the main channel and 3 subs like most PBS local stations. 3.1 and 3.2 were active channels but even though 3.8 and 3.9 locked, they only yielded black screens. My guess is that OETA was not airing anything on those subs at the time but they were still active standbys. "
YOU "CAN" MANUALLY ENTER AND ADD DTV" OTA" CHANNELS ONCE AN INITIAL AUTOSCAN HAS BEE PERFORMED" (no I'm not yelling
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If you add them, they are stored in memory until "YOU" delete them
Its possible that the machines would have allowed me to add OTA DTV channels manually when I first hooked the machine up , but I auto scanned just in case there was a new OTA DTV channel broadcasting that I did not know about. Hopefully this will answer many questions about the ability to "Manually" ADD/DELETE and Store to MEMORY OTA DTV channels after intial OTA Analog/Digital Channel Scan on the Philips 3576 and Maggy 2160.
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YOU "CAN" MANUALLY ENTER AND ADD DTV" OTA" CHANNELS ONCE AN INITIAL AUTOSCAN HAS BEE PERFORMED" (no I'm not yelling
If you add them, they are stored in memory until "YOU" delete them
Its possible that the machines would have allowed me to add OTA DTV channels manually when I first hooked the machine up , but I auto scanned just in case there was a new OTA DTV channel broadcasting that I did not know about. Hopefully this will answer many questions about the ability to "Manually" ADD/DELETE and Store to MEMORY OTA DTV channels after intial OTA Analog/Digital Channel Scan on the Philips 3576 and Maggy 2160.
Wajo, I did some research and I believe, I have answers to why picture is dark in some sets and not others.
The answer lies in Gamma Correction. The picture was dark for me also in HDMI (from 3575), but I did change Gamma on my TV from 1 to 4. This I did long ago.
Now when I connect 3575 using DVI setting, my TV does not apply Gamma Correction (for DVI, I believe it does for HDMI). The TV just displays the pic coming on DVI as it is with 1:1 mapping of pixel on screen. On DVI I/p, the picture is crisp clear and full (i.e. no clipping because of overscan), but the picture is dark (i.e. no Gamma Correction). I brightened the picture by increasing tweaking the brightness and contrast for DVI i/p on my TV.
May be the people who are seeing dark picture is due to fact that their TV do not do Gamma correction, or may be just need to twek Gamma Correction setting.
Refer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamma_correction
http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=6&gl=us
http://www.wikifaq.com/Digital_gamma_FAQs
Also to add (quoting a Wiki): "Y'CbCr signals (prior to scaling and offsets to place the signals into digital form) are called YPbPr, and are created from the corresponding gamma-adjusted RGB (red, green and blue) source using two defined constants Kb and Kr as follows"
Some people see better picture in YCbCr because of Gamma adjustment in 3575. To get DVI i/p on MY TV from 3575, I need to set 3575 to RGB instead of YCbCr. The DVI need RGB coding instead of YCbCr. In RGB Mode, 3575 may not be doing Gamma Correction. Now if TV also does not do Gamma Crrection (as in my case of my TV's DVI I/P), the picture will be dark.
Wajo, I did some research and I believe, I have answers to why picture is dark in some sets and not others.
The answer lies in Gamma Correction. The picture was dark for me also in HDMI (from 3575), but I did change Gamma on my TV from 1 to 4. This I did long ago.
Now when I connect 3575 using DVI setting, my TV does not apply Gamma Correction (for DVI, I believe it does for HDMI). The TV just displays the pic coming on DVI as it is with 1:1 mapping of pixel on screen. On DVI I/p, the picture is crisp clear and full (i.e. no clipping because of overscan), but the picture is dark (i.e. no Gamma Correction). I brightened the picture by increasing tweaking the brightness and contrast for DVI i/p on my TV.
May be the people who are seeing dark picture is due to fact that their TV do not do Gamma correction, or may be just need to twek Gamma Correction setting.
Refer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamma_correction
http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=6&gl=us
http://www.wikifaq.com/Digital_gamma_FAQs
Also to add (quoting a Wiki): "Y'CbCr signals (prior to scaling and offsets to place the signals into digital form) are called YPbPr, and are created from the corresponding gamma-adjusted RGB (red, green and blue) source using two defined constants Kb and Kr as follows"
Some people see better picture in YCbCr because of Gamma adjustment in 3575. To get DVI i/p on MY TV from 3575, I need to set 3575 to RGB instead of YCbCr. The DVI need RGB coding instead of YCbCr. In RGB Mode, 3575 may not be doing Gamma Correction. Now if TV also does not do Gamma Crrection (as in my case of my TV's DVI I/P), the picture will be dark.
Joined
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14,210 Posts
Interesting stuff.
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I checked the manuals for my two Vizio LCDs, 47" 1080p and 37" 768p, and only the newer 37" mentions gamma, and it's only in the table of features ("Gamma Correction"). Neither has a specific setting for gamma, but both say if using DVI, connect to HDMI-2 rather than HDMI-1.
HDMI-2 is right next to audio L/R connections. With my TVs, anyone wanting to see what DVI's RGB and "1:1 pixel" environment (which I've been searching for for awhile) might do for PQ and pic brightness should connect their HDMI cable to HDMI-2 as a test. There might be other HDTVs with a specific HDMI connection for DVI devices (i.e., where you have to convert DVI on the sending device to HDMI for the TV)... mine just happens to be HDMI-2.
I'm going to see what happens with my 3575's when I connect the HDMI to HDMI-2 input on my TVs and, as you and the Wikis mentioned, set my HDMI Format to RGB/Normal.
I'm wondering if HDTVs with a specific "DVI" on/off setting apply that setting to ALL HDMI connections on a TV or a specific HDMI connection?
Interesting stuff.
I checked the manuals for my two Vizio LCDs, 47" 1080p and 37" 768p, and only the newer 37" mentions gamma, and it's only in the table of features ("Gamma Correction"). Neither has a specific setting for gamma, but both say if using DVI, connect to HDMI-2 rather than HDMI-1.
HDMI-2 is right next to audio L/R connections. With my TVs, anyone wanting to see what DVI's RGB and "1:1 pixel" environment (which I've been searching for for awhile) might do for PQ and pic brightness should connect their HDMI cable to HDMI-2 as a test. There might be other HDTVs with a specific HDMI connection for DVI devices (i.e., where you have to convert DVI on the sending device to HDMI for the TV)... mine just happens to be HDMI-2.
I'm going to see what happens with my 3575's when I connect the HDMI to HDMI-2 input on my TVs and, as you and the Wikis mentioned, set my HDMI Format to RGB/Normal.
I'm wondering if HDTVs with a specific "DVI" on/off setting apply that setting to ALL HDMI connections on a TV or a specific HDMI connection?
I will be looking forward to see the results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/14825307
Interesting stuff.![]()
I'm going to see what happens with my 3575's when I connect the HDMI to HDMI-2 input on my TVs and, as you and the Wikis mentioned, set my HDMI Format to RGB/Normal.
I will be looking forward to see the results.
Wajo, I looked around info for your TV (Vizio GV47L 47" 1080P), I found an interesting fact. It does overscan in all i/p except for 1080p.
I didn't find any reference to Gamma Correction though.
Can you please do the following observaiton
- Set TV to HDMI, Set 3575 to 1080p YCbCr: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped).
- Set TV to HDMI, Set 3575 to 720p YCbCr: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I expect it to be clipped). Also is there any difference in picture darkness with that of 1080p.
- Set TV to DVI, Set 3575 to RGB/Normal, 1080P: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped). Is the picture any darker/brighter ?
- Set TV to DVI, Set 3575 to RGB/Normal, 720P: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped). Is the picture any darker/brighter ?
Just curious.
Thanks.
I didn't find any reference to Gamma Correction though.
Can you please do the following observaiton
- Set TV to HDMI, Set 3575 to 1080p YCbCr: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped).
- Set TV to HDMI, Set 3575 to 720p YCbCr: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I expect it to be clipped). Also is there any difference in picture darkness with that of 1080p.
- Set TV to DVI, Set 3575 to RGB/Normal, 1080P: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped). Is the picture any darker/brighter ?
- Set TV to DVI, Set 3575 to RGB/Normal, 720P: Is the picture on TV clipped in from (I do not expect it to be clipped). Is the picture any darker/brighter ?
Just curious.
Thanks.
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14,210 Posts
Don't have a TV setting for DVI, but I did ratchet thru the 4 HDMI output modes on my 47" 1080p LCD's HDMI-1 connection and saw an interesting "shift."
I tuned to my fav test channel, QVC, which keeps a banner at the bottom of the screen long enough to make position comparisons.
Going from HDMI 480p to 720p made only a very slight change in position of the bottom-left corner of the banner (barely noticeable), but going to 1080i moved that corner of the banner up and right ~3/4", and going to 1080p moved that corner further right ~3/4" more but about the same pos up as 1080i. (Distances could have been anywhere from 1/2" to 1", didn't measure.)
I had to do this during a break in my CFO/wife's Soap watching timeshift, and she told me to tell everyone, "You're all crazy, driving yourself nuts over a tiny little difference... it looks good so just leave it alone!" or something along those lines.
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My 480p *MIGHT* look brighter than 1080p... VERY little diff. in brightness and really hard to say there was any. My CFO/wife just said, "ehhh"... but then she thinks we're full-o-****zu anyway!
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We both thought 480p was slightly but noticeably sharper than other modes.
Don't have a TV setting for DVI, but I did ratchet thru the 4 HDMI output modes on my 47" 1080p LCD's HDMI-1 connection and saw an interesting "shift."
I tuned to my fav test channel, QVC, which keeps a banner at the bottom of the screen long enough to make position comparisons.
Going from HDMI 480p to 720p made only a very slight change in position of the bottom-left corner of the banner (barely noticeable), but going to 1080i moved that corner of the banner up and right ~3/4", and going to 1080p moved that corner further right ~3/4" more but about the same pos up as 1080i. (Distances could have been anywhere from 1/2" to 1", didn't measure.)
I had to do this during a break in my CFO/wife's Soap watching timeshift, and she told me to tell everyone, "You're all crazy, driving yourself nuts over a tiny little difference... it looks good so just leave it alone!" or something along those lines.
My 480p *MIGHT* look brighter than 1080p... VERY little diff. in brightness and really hard to say there was any. My CFO/wife just said, "ehhh"... but then she thinks we're full-o-****zu anyway!
We both thought 480p was slightly but noticeably sharper than other modes.
This test shows various degree of overscan in each mode. Looks like 1080p do not have any overscan as already stated on other board for your TV. Also Gamma correction is consistent in all mode.
I will be qurious to know the same experiments when you connect to HDMI-2 (your TV's DVI connection) and 3575 in RGB.
Don't worry, this experience is universal and I am no different.
But this little difference can mean alot. I edited my home video and timestamped the video such that the text was 10 pixels from bottom and 10 pixel from right. But My TV's HDMI i/p was overscanning hence the home video DVD was not showing full text. The text was clipped. But when I switched to DVI, full text was there. One solution is to move the text away from margin, but for that I needed to redo the video and then text will cover more picture. So we guys have to worry about little things.
This test shows various degree of overscan in each mode. Looks like 1080p do not have any overscan as already stated on other board for your TV. Also Gamma correction is consistent in all mode.
I will be qurious to know the same experiments when you connect to HDMI-2 (your TV's DVI connection) and 3575 in RGB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo /forum/post/14827009
I had to do this during a break in my CFO/wife's Soap watching timeshift, and she told me to tell everyone, "You're all crazy, driving yourself nuts over a tiny little difference... it looks good so just leave it alone!" or something along those lines.![]()
My 480p *MIGHT* look brighter than 1080p... VERY little diff. in brightness and really hard to say there was any... my CFO/wife just said, "ehhh"... but then she thinks we're full-o-****zu anyway!![]()
![]()
![]()
Don't worry, this experience is universal and I am no different.
But this little difference can mean alot. I edited my home video and timestamped the video such that the text was 10 pixels from bottom and 10 pixel from right. But My TV's HDMI i/p was overscanning hence the home video DVD was not showing full text. The text was clipped. But when I switched to DVI, full text was there. One solution is to move the text away from margin, but for that I needed to redo the video and then text will cover more picture. So we guys have to worry about little things.
wajo,
You have made this pretty easy for me as I was having a hard time getting good info on the Phillips system.
I just have to ask a question before I go and buy this because if I buy it and it doesn't do what I think it will do my wife will never let me hear the end of it.
I have an RV that is wayyyy out in the middle of no where and I can't get cable, can't use aerial antenna and because of the trees I can't use a dish.
My thought would be to record at home (I have Comcast at home) and then take the Phillips 3576 with me to my RV and hook it up to my TV there so I have TV. I can do this, right? Hope this isn't too stupid of a question but my thinking is this is the only way I am going to be able to watch TV.
Thanks, Jim
You have made this pretty easy for me as I was having a hard time getting good info on the Phillips system.
I just have to ask a question before I go and buy this because if I buy it and it doesn't do what I think it will do my wife will never let me hear the end of it.
I have an RV that is wayyyy out in the middle of no where and I can't get cable, can't use aerial antenna and because of the trees I can't use a dish.
My thought would be to record at home (I have Comcast at home) and then take the Phillips 3576 with me to my RV and hook it up to my TV there so I have TV. I can do this, right? Hope this isn't too stupid of a question but my thinking is this is the only way I am going to be able to watch TV.
Thanks, Jim
Joined
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14,210 Posts
Jim, all you need is 110-120V power, then watch things you recorded at home on the HDD or commercial movies you buy or rent! TV needs line inputs for best pic (Composite, S-Video, Component or HDMI). I'd take a rabbit ears too, just in case!
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Try copying some of your VHS movies too... I copied 7 of 12 of mine w/o problem. You'll know right away if the copy-protection won't let you copy... big menu comes up saying no-can-do!
Try copying some of your VHS movies too... I copied 7 of 12 of mine w/o problem. You'll know right away if the copy-protection won't let you copy... big menu comes up saying no-can-do!
wajo:
Fed Ex delivered the 2160 today. Hooked it up -- coax to 3576, to the 2160 and to TV. It is on HDMI 2 -- the TV has 4 HDMI connections.
What happened is the signal must be degraded--the 2160 reception wasn't good and even the 3576 , first in line wasn't as good as before. Same for the TV which generally gets first class reception.
Soo, I disconnected the 2160 and will try an indoor antenna to the 2160 and output via HDMI tomorrow when I get up and my arthritic fingers allow me to make the connections.
You have been questioning whether the 2160 has an amplified pass thru. Wonder if this indicates it does not.
Unless the antenna works I suppose I would keep the 2160 as a back up or use it with another TV but that's only a 15in analog Sony.
Stressed again stressbox
Fed Ex delivered the 2160 today. Hooked it up -- coax to 3576, to the 2160 and to TV. It is on HDMI 2 -- the TV has 4 HDMI connections.
What happened is the signal must be degraded--the 2160 reception wasn't good and even the 3576 , first in line wasn't as good as before. Same for the TV which generally gets first class reception.
Soo, I disconnected the 2160 and will try an indoor antenna to the 2160 and output via HDMI tomorrow when I get up and my arthritic fingers allow me to make the connections.
You have been questioning whether the 2160 has an amplified pass thru. Wonder if this indicates it does not.
Unless the antenna works I suppose I would keep the 2160 as a back up or use it with another TV but that's only a 15in analog Sony.
Stressed again stressbox
Keep you 3575 at home, keep it recording on hard disc while you are away from home. You can copy from hard disc to DVDs and take those DVDs with you on RV and play DVD on another player. You can hook up any other DVD player to your RV TV, leave your 3575 back at home still recording your favorite stuff on hard disk.
Keep you 3575 at home, keep it recording on hard disc while you are away from home. You can copy from hard disc to DVDs and take those DVDs with you on RV and play DVD on another player. You can hook up any other DVD player to your RV TV, leave your 3575 back at home still recording your favorite stuff on hard disk.
For RF amplification, you can get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-48409.../dp/B000066E6Y
For RF amplification, you can get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-48409.../dp/B000066E6Y
1941 - 1960 of 28067 Posts
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