AVS Forum banner

21 - 40 of 623 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Even though we have the dricore down we decided to put 3/8 plywood down to stiffen it up a bit. We are also putting hardwood in most of the basement so this will help hold better when driving the nails in.

As you can see the speaker wire is in place for the front speakers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,718 Posts

Right side wall with a window I wanted to frame over but wasn’t allowed so I will need some help later on when I get to that point of the wall treatment stage.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I suggest covering this window rather permanently. I had two very small windows in my basement theater and covering them was an important part of the theater atmosphere while watching movies. Car lights passing by, noise, and of course daylight has to be kept out. Just a suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
I suggest covering this window rather permanently. I had two very small windows in my basement theater and covering them was an important part of the theater atmosphere while watching movies. Car lights passing by, noise, and of course daylight has to be kept out. Just a suggestion.
I think it's a waf thing if I recall if so I would recommend doing a friction fit panel flush so it looks just like the wall

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for both of your suggestions.

I would like to put black velvet up the side to maybe the window but how do you transition that to the fabric that will be around the rest of the room? Should I put a column there and make the column apart of the window too but be able to just remove the top part of the column/insert. Then I can maybe put a future wide speaker in there since I pre-wired for that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Not much of an update but we have started drywall, woo hoo, only about 200 sheets to bring down them put up. I have never used a drywall lift before but I used it for the first time and I will never go back, best invention ever. We are starting in the bathroom and working our way into the rest of the basement doing the ceiling first then walls.

This was our first sheet in the bathroom

This is the front half of the theatre, 4 pot light opening and the squares are the 2 from atmos for the volt 8s. I will be doing 2 layers of 5/8 in the theatre area only.

Decided to box in the duct work with plywood first since the framers (me) didn’t do a good job in the proper spacing for the 4’ or 8’ spacing for the drywall.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Here a preview of what is on the menu in the next few weeks.

I got these a while ago and Mike @eng-399 is in the process of the mdf cut list for my very first diy sub build. I will be building 2 of my rear subs, they will be 10cf each tuned to 17hrz, Mike correct me if I am wrong. My question regarding the placement of the subs, they will be inside the wall about 7” and the balance which is 7” will be sticking out of the wall, how should I frame around the sub in the wall. Should I build a cut out and push it up to the insulation, do I have to put anything like plywood or drywall behind the sub against the insulation? I need every inch possible in depth. I could treat it like I would be building a front baffle wall?
Just to let you know there will be fabric and sound absorption going over the sub cabinet. I believe the size of the cabinet is 30”w x 55”h x 14”d for reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
I would drywall the back side where these are sliding in and have something like a 2/2 or 1 by 2 nailed to the side of the 2/4 so the drywall can be screwed into that so your room is sealed up.

All your boxes will be different shapes like a rectangle to a square but the internal cubic ft and tune are all the same so they all will have the same response. I’m done with your boxes behind your screen and still working on the change you talked about a few days ago on your rear subs. The Nearfield subs will be next as soon as you give me the space you have to work with. I’ll post up everything soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I would drywall the back side where these are sliding in and have something like a 2/2 or 1 by 2 nailed to the side of the 2/4 so the drywall can be screwed into that so your room is sealed up.

All your boxes will be different shapes like a rectangle to a square but the internal cubic ft and tune are all the same so they all will have the same response. I’m done with your boxes behind your screen and still working on the change you talked about a few days ago on your rear subs. The Nearfield subs will be next as soon as you give me the space you have to work with. I’ll post up everything soon.


Thanks Mike I will make sure I do that for sure, never thought about sealing up the room part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
We decided to do some modifications to our stairs to make it way easier to bring anything downstairs especially drywall

The result is was awesome and wow does it make a big difference, opens it right up.
Hate to be negative here, but the stair modification looks to me to be a very significant trip hazard. Anyone taking the shortcut around the curve is in for an unexpected drop. I would hate for you to learn the hard way when some unsuspecting guest takes a bad fall. We all take stairs for granted so much that we don't think about it which is why it's not the best place to get creative. Maybe a railing and newel post there when you are done transporting drywall?

I say this knowing I don't have much room to be critical. My own basement stairs are like something from the dark ages leading steeply down to the dungeon, but my excuse is someone else put them in years before I owned the house. My 100 year old house didn't have a basement when it was built so the stairs were crammed into the pantry closet which makes them extremely steep and the ceiling is too low. I have had friends at various times slip off the edge of a tread or hit their heads on the low ceiling. As a result I am probably more aware than most of the hazards of poorly designed stairs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Hate to be negative here, but the stair modification looks to me to be a very significant trip hazard. Anyone taking the shortcut around the curve is in for an unexpected drop. I would hate for you to learn the hard way when some unsuspecting guest takes a bad fall. We all take stairs for granted so much that we don't think about it which is why it's not the best place to get creative. Maybe a railing and newel post there when you are done transporting drywall?



I say this knowing I don't have much room to be critical. My own basement stairs are like something from the dark ages leading steeply down to the dungeon, but my excuse is someone else put them in years before I owned the house. My 100 year old house didn't have a basement when it was built so the stairs were crammed into the pantry closet which makes them extremely steep and the ceiling is too low. I have had friends at various times slip off the edge of a tread or hit their heads on the low ceiling. As a result I am probably more aware than most of the hazards of poorly designed stairs.


Hey that’s a good catch/observation for sure. My wife was the first one to say something about that, we have planned when completed to have something there like a plant or anything that will cause people to follow the stairs and not cut the corner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
DIY box time.. here's what 8 UM18-22 subs will look like in your room. I designed the front and rear subs and will add the nearfield once you give me the exact size you have to work with. The pictures below are the cut list for your drivers double check my math but I think you should be good to go.

Editing this post
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,644 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
This is the rear sub box as you can see there both the pretty close to the same tune maybe off by .20 which really is nothing. The goal is to match the same size internal cubic ft and tune so he has no issues in his room.



Rear sub boxes
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,644 Posts
Just remember anything is possible!!!!!!!! You dream it up I'll design it... your nearfield box can be any shape I'll figure out the port for it and get it the box to match the front and rear's. Take your time with it and once you get tired with building it walk away and come back a few days later. You have my number along with a few others my phone is always on. YOU got this!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Just remember anything is possible!!!!!!!! You dream it up I'll design it... your nearfield box can be any shape I'll figure out the port for it and get it the box to match the front and rear's. Take your time with it and once you get tired with building it walk away and come back a few days later. You have my number along with a few others my phone is always on. YOU got this!!!


Oh Mike your number is 1 on speed dial


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,718 Posts
Well I will never know since every time I’m in Michigan you are never there lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ha! We will cross paths soon I know it. I am curious how those numbers will measure real world. I don’t really hit 130 at my main listening position but that could be because of level matching with mains I’m not running my bass as loud as possible I guess. My house can’t handle it. I wonder what my 8 18’s look like on paper.
 
21 - 40 of 623 Posts
Top