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Discussion Starter #1
A little over a year ago my girlfriend and I purchased a house and for the living room we purchased an entertainment center. It is a 4 piece unit with a credenza, an armoire with folding doors, and two audio peers. The armoire sets on top of the credenza and the peers fit on either end of that. You can see one end of this unit here .


In that image you can see the dark spot under the picture frame is the speaker hole. Stuffed in that hole, I am ashamed to admit, is a Bose 301 bookshelf speaker that is about 13 years old now. I actually have 4 of these in my living room: 2 up front and 2 in the back.


You can also see in the photograph that there is not much room between the end of the entertainment center and a doorway. On the other end of the entertainment center there is not much room before the corner. The entire entertainment center is about 9.5 feet long. Adding up all of the extra space on either end of the entertainment center gives me about 18 inches of usable space.


So I have photoshopped an image of what I would like to do with that space.


So what DIY speaker designs have you heard and recommend that:

1. Can be built in a tall cabinet. Each peer is about 68'' tall.

2. Can be built in a narrow cabinet. Each speaker needs to be a maximum outside width of 9 inches.

3. Sound reasonably good. I know this is very subjective but if they sound good to most of you audiophiles they will sound great to me.


Oh, and the reason for this is that the SO will not allow me to have non-matching towers setting out. I either have to get more bookshelf speakers that will fit into the hole or build something that fully matches the EC.


Thanks in advance
 

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What about the Natalie P's, but the "in-wall" version.
 

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You really have nearly unlimited options. The 9" width is plenty for anything with 7" drivers. You have a ton of available volume with the depth of the entertainment center. I guess the first thing to really do is figure out what your budget would be.


My first suggestion if you want something that is going to sound great with not a lot of money would be to go with the Seas T18RE/XFCTV2 (H1333) 7" Coaxial. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1353


They are $137.90 and you can get the premade crossover from Madisound for $35.50.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1352


These are an amazing speaker for the price and the crossover works out very well. Doing a vented enclosure tuned around 65-70hz, then crossed over to a subwoofer at 80hz will do very well. We use these often for installations in theater rooms. There just really isn't any combination of drivers that is available for the same price that will outperform them. The 7" has plenty of output for most rooms. As long as you are making the front baffle flush with the front of the entertainment center you also won't have to worry about any baffle step compensation.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, as far as budget goes, I am fairly flexible. I was hoping to keep the cost of drivers and xovers to $300 per speaker but I would be willing to go to $500 per speaker if I was convinced of the performance/price ratio.


Looking around at various builds it seems that either of the above speakers suggested can be built for around/less than $200 for drivers and xovers.


Just a little more information about the room. The wall that the entertainment center is on is about 16 feet wide and the room has a depth of about 22 feet. At the back of the room is an opening to a big hall that is about 8 feet wide. The ceiling is 11 feet off the floor. And to the left of the entertainment center is a big bay widow that has 3 windows that are each 72''x36''.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions guys.


I have read a few hundred posts about various builds and am learning quite a bit but still do not have a real firm idea of what I am going to do. There is one interesting build that I came across over at HTGuide .


That design was originally for a center channel but several of the posters there have mentioned using them as mains also. Chris, the designer has a tower box design on his web page that looks promising. What are your thoughts on that?
 

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Chris comes over here from time to time, those speakers, to the best of my knowledge are designed to be used as in room speakers, it looks like you are more going for an inwall type application which would change the baffle step compensation completely. The inwall natelie P's would probably be a nice choice for you as their bsc circuit is designed for an for your application.


I know your speakers are not going in your wall, but as far as the baffle is concerned, they will be. Of course, depending on how it affects the response, your entertainment center could have its very own entirely unique baffle step response than the one modeled for the Nat P's designer. I haven't seen the schematics on the inwall nat P's so I don't know how well it would suit your application, however, its safe to guess that a speaker designed for in wall use would be better suited than one for in room.
 

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I think the on-wall (reduced BSC) version of CJD's RS150 MTM design is one good option for you. You can build it in a front-ported or sealed cabinet.


I'd not build the Natalie P in-wall version until the phase tracking issue I raised in my Dayton RS180 2-way page (in the gray text box) is resolved.


Jay
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_WJ /forum/post/12896308


I'd not build the Natalie P in-wall version until the phase tracking issue I raised in my Dayton RS180 2-way page (in the gray text box) is resolved.


Jay

These have been built and reportedly sounded excellent. If you have questions about the sound, ask at the PE board. I believe it was Maynard that built them and will answer questions there. Thomas and Jon at HTGuide.com will also answer any questions you have.


There isn't an issue that needs resolved. Lets not go there again.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ---k--- /forum/post/12896665


There isn't an issue that needs resolved. Lets not go there again.

How do you know? Have you examined it as carefully as I did? I had long discussion over this issue at PE Tech board where some experienced DIYers looked at my analysis and at least agreed upon the plausibility of the result. The issue can be resolved only by Jon, no one else, unless there's someone who's willing to build and measure it.


Keep in mind that a deep null around 2 kHz may not be so much audible in casual listening. It should be noticed by long term listening and measurement.


zordac, don't ask any questions about this issue at HTG. No one except Jon, who's not available for now, can give you a correct answer. You'll only see people bash my analysis.


Jay
 

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Jay, you have disabled, PM'ing, so I'll just ask you this. Could you elaborate or at least link to the above discrepancy? I have 8 RS180's here and (in some ways) a better test setup than Jon, is there something I could do? I don't have his experience, but I have spent the past year testing drivers.
 

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Jay,


Whatever. :shrug:
 
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