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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to put some inwall speakers in (knowing the compromises that I am making using inwalls [they will be fully enclosed cabinets] ). I need to modify the studs in the wall so that I can place them at the "best" location (6-8 inches to the right and left of the plasma as it is mounted now). Because it is a weight bearing wall, I know I can't just cut studs and leave them.


So here is what I am looking to do:




The red areas show the current stud construction. The purple areas show what will be the new stud construction (with headers and jack studs). The outside headers. All of the headers will be constructed with 2x6-plywood-2x6 sandwich (or maybe 2x8 for over kill).


Behind this wall is a closet (which is where my rack is recessed into), so I am going to be doing all of the work from the "closet" side of the wall and know exactly where the electrical is located (no pipes).


Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?


Thanks,

Brian
 

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For a load bearing wall, the proper size header to use depends on the weight its going to support and the span involved. I'd suggest you do more research and check with someone in the building trades or a contractor. Especially if it's a 2 story house; I'm sure 2x6's are undersized.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Javatime /forum/post/14230775


For a load bearing wall, the proper size header to use depends on the weight its going to support and the span involved. I'd suggest you do more research and check with someone in the building trades or a contractor. Especially if it's a 2 story house; I'm sure 2x6's are undersized.

Agreed!


I am actually going to be talking with a client of mind who engineers' commercial buildings -- figure he can either tell me or send me in the right direction. Not worth the house falling down!!
 

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If your really confident in doing this then here is what you need to do (I'm an ex-contractor):
  1. Shore up the ceiling with a temporary wall, you will have damage to the sheetrock on the ceiling.
  2. Build a 2x12 header the full length of the wall (do not touch the inside and outside corner posts, leave them alone) with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between both 2x12's this is also known as a flinch plate. Cap the top and bottom of the header with a 2x4 so you can nail your studs to the header.
  3. Use 2 jack studs and 2 King studs (something you forgot) each side of the header (total 4 jacks and 4 kings) to support the header . This prevents the header from rolling/twisting.
  4. Finally complete the bottom framing to your needs.
  5. Remove temporary wall.


Your engineer will agree with me...



Bob
 
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