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Discussion Starter #21
what's your plan for masking? or are you just going to let it go?

I figure 90% of my viewing will be 16:9 and the rest 2.35:1
I would eventually like to just do manual masking with magnets. But that's still a ways down the road, so not 100% sure.

I think we will be 40-50% 16:9 and the rest 2.35, so may not even need to worry about masking.
 

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It's pretty easy actually. You just router out a hole the depth of the magnet in the screen frame. Then attach the other side of the magnet to the masking.
 

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I have spent several hours this week trying to figure out a good sub solution. I would like to do DIY since it will provide the best bang for the buck. Plus, I like building stuff.

My room is ~1672 cu. ft. so definitely on the smaller side. I am thinking 2x 12" or 2x 15" ported subs with iNuke powering. I would lean towards the UM-12 or UM15 for my builds with DIYSG boxes or Marty cube and probably iNuke6000DSP.

Any thoughts or opinions on this? Will dual 12" subs be enough for this room size? If I go 12", is the iNuke6000 overkill?

I feel the 12" may be enough for this room size but no room for expansion. However, the 15" may be slightly bigger than needed but gives plenty of head room. Also, a box for the 12" would be smaller and possibly fit better in the room with everything else being hidden in wall.
I think you'll be fine with dual 12's and the 6000. The inuke has a limiter so you decrease the amount of power going to the subs plus it will give you flexibility to get more subs in the future. Of course the 15's would be better but you'll be dealing with a larger box as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I went to the house this weekend to layout the speaker locations and drill holes in the wall header to make it easier to fish the wire through later on.

The front speakers will be in ~24" from each side wall and the center can ALMOST go directly in the middle of the wall. The center will be off center by about 1-2" to the right but I don't think that is enough to be noticeable. It would annoy me to no end if you could see the speakers, but since they will be behind an AT screen, I think I can live with it. Guess time will tell...

The surrounds won't be exactly as I hoped, but still not bad. They will end up being closer to 90 degrees to the front row of seats instead of between the 2 rows. The left wall has a weird double stud just in front of the sconce (you can see it in the picture above) which prevents me from putting the surround a little further back on this wall. Since the front row will be used more than the rear, I think this is probably better anyways.

The back wall of the theater is a mess in terms of framing. It seems way over built and thus there is no good speaker wire access since I would have to drill through 2 different 2x6 headers. Because of that, I am thinking I may just route the speaker wire down the wall inside the theater and do my best to hide it (paint it or something). It's either this or just not have rear speakers. Since the front row of seating will be used more, I would like to keep rear speakers since they will be separated from the front to give a better effect.

I will try and post a picture showing speaker locations on the pictures.

Side note rant.
During our pre-construction meeting, I asked the builder if I could locate the thermostats in the house. He told me no, that the HVAC people place them wherever they decide and he (the builder) can't change their location because it would void the warranty. I call BS!!!!

Well this weekend, I noticed where the HVAC people had located them... one right next to the front door (to get a draft every time the door opens) and the upstairs thermostat is actually in a bedroom!! Needless to say, I am furious! But to ease my mind, I drilled holes in the necessary locations to allow me to fish a new thermostat wire down to the locations I want once we close on the house. This is such an unnecessary and STUPID way of doing things. I can't believe the builder wouldn't let me locate them where I wanted. This is definitely a lesson learned for the future.
Rant over.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Our house closing got pushed back a month, so now we won't be in the house until July 27th. Sucks, but I guess that is just part of building new.

To keep my hopes up, I ordered my DIY sub stuff last night! I order 2 of the 3 cu. ft. sealed sub flat packs from DIYSG and also ordered 2 of the 15" ultimax subs from Parts Express. I went with 2 sealed subs since I have a small room and the sealed boxes have a much smaller footprint than ported, so easier to fit in the room. The subs are back ordered until mid July, but they should be here just in time for moving in. I plan to get the boxes built and finished once the flat packs come in so once the subs get here I can just put them in.

I am waiting to order the iNuke and the rest of my equipment until closer to our move in date. The room is fully sheetrocked, taped and mudded, and should be painted by now too. I will post pictures of that soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
The room has been finished out by the builder. We won't move in for another month, but here are some pictures of the finished room. They still have to do touch-up painting throughout the house so yes, the paint will be fixed before we move in.

Looking into the room from the door.



Back wall



Equipment area. I will add my own doors to this so that none of the lights or fans are noticeable in the theater room.



Screen wall.



 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I have also started building the boxes for my subs. I ordered 2x 3.0 cu. ft. boxes from DIYSG for 2x UM-15-22. I highly recommend DIYSG. Very well cut and packaged and super easy to assemble with glue and a few clamps.

I do have a couple questions. This is my first foray into DIY subs so I just want to double check I am doing everything correctly. I will be running dual UM-15-22's in 3.0 cu. ft. enclosures with iNuke6000DSP and Denon X6200.

I am about to order these items to finish my sub build.
4x http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4fx-speakon-spx-series-4-pole-cable-connector--092-190
1x http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft-roll--260-542
2x http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mpr-speakon-connector-4-pole-round-chassis-mount--092-054.

I know I will also need:

  • poly fill from wal-mart
  • RCA to XLR cables to go from Denon X6200 to iNuke. Will get these from monoprice once I know what length I need.
Is there anything I am missing? Any reason I shouldn't use any of the items listed?

Is Dura Tex the best thing for painting the boxes? I want a smooth finished look, not a textured look.
 

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that looks very bright - are you leaving it that way?
No, I am not. It is just a builder grade room for now. I can't change color until we move in. I am going to paint screen wall and ceiling black. Haven't decided on wall colors yet but something dark, either red or blue.
Ok that makes much more sense. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Well I haven't updated this in a while because not much has really happened with the room. I am starting to get some of the equipment ordered with a majority of it getting ordered in the next week or 2. There has been a few changes to my original equipment list, but nothing drastic.

I have changed from Denon X6200 to the Denon X4300H (new model with HEOS in it) and will be using a Monoprice Monolith 7 external amp. The external amp allowed me to downsize my Denon amp and should give me more consistent audio quality. I am also stepping up my Def Tech speakers to the RLS II and RSS II (vs the III). And for now, I am going to for-go having rear speakers since I am unsure how my seating would work with them. I have some small bookshelf speakers (Def Tech Mythos) that I will eventually try placing on the back wall to see if I want rear speakers or not and go from there.

I am also going to upgrade projector to the JVC RS400 :) I figure this will give me a longer period of time before I need to upgrade to true 4k or even 8k. I am going to start with a DIY spandex screen as well. Since this is my first projector, I want to get a feel for screen size before I commit to a final, more expensive screen.

I have got my equipment rack (MA Slim 5) and the Denon HEOS Drive set up. I have the HEOS Drive, a Furman power strip (not a power conditioner), and DirectTV box in the rack so far. The HEOS Drive is amazing and both my wife and I really enjoy having/using it. The HEOS app makes the whole system really easy to use.





Up next will be painting and once chairs get here, I can start building the riser!
 

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Question. Not sure if you plan to do this already, but have you considered installing an exhaust fan out the back of the cabinet area to exhaust the heat? That would be something I'd do with all that equipment in that area, especially once you put on the doors.^^^ I know you just ordered the Mono 7 and according to the reviews, it gets pretty hot and all that heat will just rise and linger. Something to think about.

It looks like fun doing the build, especially that you can get above and run the cabling which simplify things a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Question. Not sure if you plan to do this already, but have you considered installing an exhaust fan out the back of the cabinet area to exhaust the heat? That would be something I'd do with all that equipment in that area, especially once you put on the doors.^^^ I know you just ordered the Mono 7 and according to the reviews, it gets pretty hot and all that heat will just rise and linger. Something to think about.

It looks like fun doing the build, especially that you can get above and run the cabling which simplify things a lot.
Great question and yes I am going to install a vent in that cabinet space. I am going to put doors on the front and a access panel for the back since the back opens into a game room. I haven't decided what type of vent/fan I am going to do though. I have open attic above but I have been reading that just venting into the attic is not the best approach. So I need to get up there and see where my HVAC returns are and if I can tie into a return. I am open to ideas/suggestions though.

I am hoping @BIGmouthinDC may stop by and give me some ideas :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
So I have finally been working on the theater. Here is where I currently am..

I have painted the screen wall and ceiling black (Mouse Ears) and painted the side walls a steel blue color (Behr Hilo Bay). Lowes had the Mouse Ears black in their system. And I got the Behr at Home Depot.

Yes, the light in the middle of the ceiling is coming down. It is only there because the builder put it in and I need it up until I get the sconces done.







I also picked some sconces finally. I got these at Lowes (don't know the name). But they are LED and look great!! I am really hoping I can find a dimmer that will work with them... That is my biggest worry right now. Need to figure that out quickly in case I need to take them back. I am going to try the Lutron Maestro dimmer.








I have also started the screen build. I built a 2.0:1 screen so it is 120" wide and 60" tall. I wanted a scope screen but we will watch some 16:9 content (mostly football) so I wanted to get a little bigger 16:9 picture while still keeping the scope screen. Once I get the screen and projector up I will decide if I need to make masking for it. I am using white over black spandex with screen tight on the back to hold it on. I will try and post more pictures once I get it complete.



 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Room has been painted and screen is mostly hung. I still need to add 2 more french cleats to the screen for support. Screen is 2.0:1 (120" wide, 60" tall) since we will watch some sports and TV in here. I figured this gives me a little bit bigger 16:9 image while still keeping the full cinescope feel.



Next I will start wrapping the spandex and getting sconces put up. It's finally starting to come together!!! I am also going to paint the white trim a gray color when I can get around to it.

Next week I should get speakers, pre/pro, and chairs. So I need to get the riser built soon too.
 

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Subbed! Love the build so far. I am grateful for the kind words regarding my HT. That's one reason I shared sooooo many photos of my 1.0 and 2.0 builds so that it might provide ideas to others.

I think it's awesome when people have a smaller room and still are able to build a nice HT out of it. Your room is similar size to my room....mine is 13' x 19' with 10' ceilings. They are correct, 11' is going to be tight with 3 seats but if it were me, I'd still do it. As you mentioned, you may find it's too tight if you center the seats. I have 3 seats and adequate room on each side of the seats.

As mentioned, the back row will not be ideal soundwise but it's still better than watching a movie on even a 65" TV with no sound or a soundbar. Your friends will love it. My surround backs are up high due to the entry door so they are useless for the back row. I have them aimed at the front row but not sure if I even hear them. I positioned my side surrounds in between the front and second row and they sound great there.

You asked about lighting in this thread and in a PM so I'll answer it here. In HT 1.0, I only had 6 canned lights connected to a Lutron Maestro Dimmer. The Maestro has one "Preset" so when I hit that button, all 6 can lights would fade to whatever that "Preset" lighting was. When I began the HT 2.0, I made plans to add more lighting. Since I already had the Maestro, the plan was to use it to control my "Reveal" lighting that is behind my AT Screen. I purchased a Lutron Spacer off Ebay since they are a discontinued product. The Spacer allows you to add 4 Scenes as well as All On and All Off. I drew out a plan on which lights would need to be controlled separately and for each set of lights, I would need a dimmer. My friend @wakejunkie already had the Spacer system in his HT controlled by the Harmony One so he was the one who suggested I go with the Lutron SPS-600 Dimmers. Here's my lighting setup.

Lutron Spacer SPS-5WCR Master Controller - On wall as you enter the room
Lutron SPS-600 Dimmer - (4) Front & Center Can Lights in ceiling
Lutron SPS-600 Dimmer - (2) Rear Can Lights in Ceiling (I wanted to be able to turn on the back two lights slightly so there is some light but not enough to hit the screen.)
Lutron SPS-600 Dimmer - (3) Lights in Arch of my front cabinet
Lutron SPS-600M Dimmer - Blue LED around screen
Lutron Maestro Dimmer - (3) Blue Outdoor Lights and (1) 12' LED rope light behind screen for "Reveal" of Speakers through screen

All 5 Dimmers are installed in my front cabinet behind fabric so the IR from the Harmony can control them. The SPS-600 dimmers have IR sensors in front AND also in the rear so when you hit a "Scene" on the Spacer Master Controller when you enter the room, it sends the signal to one Dimmer and sends the commands to the other dimmers via the rear IR sensors. At least that is my understanding of how it works.

So in your setup, if you only have sconces for lighting and you don't need different "Scenes", the Maestro will work great. One thing I LOVE about the Maestro is that you can program it to fade to Off over 20 seconds so you get this very gentle fade. The Spacer is much quicker (I think 5 seconds or so). The Maestro is limited to 1 "Scene" or "Preset". Maybe you dim the lights to 10% and use that as your "Preset" or "Scene".

If you wanted more control....say you have 6 sconces and you wanted the front 4 to be controlled separately from the back two sconces, you would need (2) SPS-600 Dimmers. The Spacer could handle that since it can control up to (4) dimmers (each dimmer can be hooked to several lighting fixtures) and you could have up to 4 "Scenes" for those 6 lights.

For example....
Scene 1 might be all (6) Sconces set to 100%
Scene 2 might be (4) Front Sconces at 5% and (2) Rear Sconces at (15%) for movie watching
Scene 3 might be (4) Front Sconces at 20% and (2) Rear Sconces at 30% for watching sports where people are more apt to get up and walk to the kitchen to get a drink or food.
Scene 4 might be all (6) Sconces set to 5% for very dim lighting during movie

Hopefully that helps explain how the Lutron Spacer and Maestro systems work.

One issue I did have mixing the Maestro and the Spacer in one system is when I use the Harmony One to send IR codes for ANY scene, it turns my "Reveal" Lighting (controlled by the Maestro) on (which defeats the desire to be able to control the reveal lighting separately from the in room lighting. I basically had to create a macro for each Scene to say once you turn on the main lights and the reveal lights turn on, send another command to the Lutron Maestro to turn the Reveal lights off. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thank you so much Michael!! That was an excellent explanation and helps me a ton! I do plan to add can lights in the near future, the sconces are not bright enough on their own. I haven't decided on other lighting but I like the idea of being able to expand it if I choose to.

Time to go find the Lutron equipment!
 
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