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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep reading from you (so called
) CRT experts that it is bad to have to use too much convergence and that some set it up so they use little if any convergence . But what is too much? How can I tell? No one has shown pictures or given examples or anything.


So, being the noob I am, I began to worry I setup up marquee poorly by relying too much on convergence. So, yesterday, I spend bloody 3-4 hours just going through the mechanical setup (and re-doing and re-doing and...). And no matter what I do I can not get the middle of red and blue to match of to the green grid. It is easy to get the sides spot on, but the middle is bleepin impossible I say. So, how do you do it if at all? I love my marquee (thanks to Draganm) and want to keep it forever
I had a digital (HT1000) and don't ever want one again.


Just look at the attached pic and tell me if this is normal, good, or just plain terrible(!). I am interested to hear what you experts think.


Also, what can I do about that bottom right corner? It always has given me problems.



Thanks,

Chris
 

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Say Chris


Looks like you have most of it; the error in the middle is Horizontal Linearity differences because the outside tubes shoot at angles. Do go into the Service Menu and match red and blue raster height to green; UTIL, 9, 0901, 3 to help the top and bottom edges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tim the r/b raster height look like they are fine to me, but then again I am fairly new to this so maybe they do some tweaking. Call me a dumbass, but what are the default values for those? My hands were button happy and did not get a chance to write down the values.


Chris
 

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There is no "default" raster height other than the settings starting you off at 50/50 in the generic sense. According to the pic you posted above, I'd make the blue a little taller and the red a little shorter.
 

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Tim,

With my Ampro, like Clarence, I mechanically align red to green and blue to red on-center. This is also the sequence in the Ampro manual and help screens. This is with all controls nulled. My edges are then not aligned and I have to use lin/size or convergence controls.


1. Does the Marquee have center lin functions as opposed to edge functions?

2. I also see more distortion in my blue than red grid, even though both crts toe-in. Is the amount of distortion in the blue grid (key) on the right side normal or can this be be removed by magnet adjustments? I ask because this requires a lot of key/pin adjustment to remove.
 

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Marquee's are the only pj that doesn't demand the center to be exactly overlaid when doing mechanical setup. Don't sweat it, in the dozen or so Marquee's I've had, its never made a difference. Just make sure the sides are lined up according to the help menu.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by gn2
Marquee's are the only pj that doesn't demand the center to be exactly overlaid when doing mechanical setup. Don't sweat it, in the dozen or so Marquee's I've had, its never made a difference. Just make sure the sides are lined up according to the help menu.
Hey Paul, just curious, where do you find all your marquees? I know they were all built just a couple of hours from us, but it seems to me that they all ended up south of the border.


later,

robb
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by gn2
Marquee's are the only pj that doesn't demand the center to be exactly overlaid when doing mechanical setup. Don't sweat it, in the dozen or so Marquee's I've had, its never made a difference. Just make sure the sides are lined up according to the help menu.
Not only doesn't it "demand" it, it's impossible to have the left and right edges matched up properly and have the center aligned (before convergence) at the SAME TIME. They use the edge alignment because

of the Marquees unique design of the way convergence is accomplished. However, if the red, green and blue widths are matched properly with the adjustment slugs on the HDM, you can INCORRECTLY overlay the red and blue over the green image in the center of the screen AND STILL obtain convergence. I've seen Marquees setup this way many times. I assume it will just result in unstable convergence.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by techman707
Not only doesn't it "demand" it, it's impossible to have the left and right edges matched up properly and have the center aligned (before convergence) at the SAME TIME. They use the edge alignment because

of the Marquees unique design of the way convergence is accomplished. However, if the red, green and blue widths are matched properly with the adjustment slugs on the HDM, you can INCORRECTLY overlay the red and blue over the green image in the center of the screen AND STILL obtain convergence. I've seen Marquees setup this way many times. I assume it will just result in unstable convergence.
So,it seems to me,there are two schools of thinking:

the edge aligners and the center ones.

Is there anybody that can put the final word ?:)


Mauro
 

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Quote:
So,it seems to me,there are two schools of thinking:
well no there aren't, the Ampro guy is just asking if the Marquees are different, and they are. Tim Martin and Bruce are the final word on Marquee's, you align the left-right sides of the grid, the center will always be off because the 2 outer tubes are shooting at an angle, like tim kindly pointed out.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Plexi47
So,it seems to me,there are two schools of thinking:

the edge aligners and the center ones.

Is there anybody that can put the final word ?:)


Mauro
Like I said, you have "enough" range to do it either way, however, the PROPER way, according to Electrohome, is to align the edges. I say, whatever gives you the most stable convergence is the RIGHT way, but I've never really did any tests to see.
 

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Also try this:


7. OPTICAL ALIGNMENT


Optical alignment is required when the projector is initially installed or the throw distance changes. The projector is optically aligned at the factory for use with a 6 foot diagonal screen and a throw distance of 80 inches or 2 meters.


Note: The projector should be warmed up for at least 45 minutes before making any adjustments. Optical alignment is both a mechanical and electrical adjustment. The electrical adjustments are stored in the current setup memory.


Marquee 8110 and 8500 Optical Alignment



Procedure:


1. Select GREEN convergence and turn the contrast low. Now look into the GREEN lens and center the raster using the arrow controls on the remote (press zero to erase any previous adjustments).

2. Enter random convergence and center the RED and BLUE raster (press zero to erase any previous adjustments).

3. Mount the projector at the correct throw distance and center the GREEN cross hatch on the screen.

4. Loosen the two allen bolts labeled 'B'. Loosen the four 7/16†bolts labeled 'A' on the top.

5. Physically skew the RED CRT/lens assembly until the vertical lines of the RED test pattern matches the GREEN test pattern, in the center of the image. Retighten the allen bolts. Repeat step 5 for the BLUE.

6. Loosen the rear wing nut on the GREEN lens and defocus slightly. Adjust the large allen bolt on the upper right corner of the lens mounting plate to make the top and bottom of the test pattern equally defocused. As the focus changes it may be necessary to readjust the center focus again. Refocus the center and corners when a even defocused image is achieved. Repeat for the RED and BLUE. This adjustment matches the vertical focusing plane of the lens to the screen.

7. For the RED and BLUE, loosen the rear wing nut and defocus the center. Adjust the large allen bolt on the lower left (opposite corner from the top/bottom adjustment) of the lens mounting plate to make the horizontal center line of the test pattern equally defocused on each side. Refocus the center and corner focus when this is done.

8. Tighten the four bolts labeled 'A' to lock the assembly in place.

9. Adjust Geometry to make a rectangular image that fills the screen.


Note: No left/right focus adjustments for GREEN should be required if the projector is centered and perpendicular to the screen.
 

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I checked a couple of PDFs and they agreed with Tim and Bruce...


M8500 User's Manual (54-021-03P), page 2-19, Step #19:

"A red and green crosshatch is displayed. Move the red lens until the left and right edges of the red crosshatch match the green."


And the M8000 MARIM (Marquee Installation Training Manual):

"Step 10. Physically skew the red CRT/lens assembly until the edges of the red test pattern match the green test pattern."


Which manual did you reference Mike? ("Physically skew the RED CRT/lens assembly until the vertical lines of the RED test pattern matches the GREEN test pattern, in the center of the image.")
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Clarence



Which manual did you reference Mike? ("Physically skew the RED CRT/lens assembly until the vertical lines of the RED test pattern matches the GREEN test pattern, in the center of the image.")
That's directly from my Electrohome Installation Manual. And that's why I said to "also" try this. They've been real good at changing the procedures, as well as the throw distance charts.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Clarence
I checked a couple of PDFs and they agreed with Tim and Bruce...


M8500 User's Manual (54-021-03P), page 2-19, Step #19:

"A red and green crosshatch is displayed. Move the red lens until the left and right edges of the red crosshatch match the green."


And the M8000 MARIM (Marquee Installation Training Manual):

"Step 10. Physically skew the red CRT/lens assembly until the edges of the red test pattern match the green test pattern."


Which manual did you reference Mike? ("Physically skew the RED CRT/lens assembly until the vertical lines of the RED test pattern matches the GREEN test pattern, in the center of the image.")
Clarence,


There is nothing in Mike's post that refers to the convergence, it is only talking about sheimpflug or flapping adjustment. So it isn't in conflict with anything.


On other projectors, since they have discreet controls for each tube's linearity, size, skew, etc., they have you overlaying the images in the center to match the green tube's pattern, but the Marquee's method incorporated "all" these adjustment in "each" move makes it very unique in that respect. While I'm not sure why, they must have determined "something" about doing it that way that made them decide to be contrary to everyone else.:confused: :D


Bruce
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by techman707

There is nothing in Mike's post that refers to the convergence, it is only talking about sheimpflug or flapping adjustment. So it isn't in conflict with anything.
Re-read steps 4 and 5 in Mike's post.

Those are DEFINITELY talking about mechanical toe-in for initial convergence, not schiempflug (steps 6-7).
 
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