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I did disable Intel card and my screen went black. Had to take it in to shop to get default settings back (they didn't charge me).

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The only reason your monitor would work via hdmi or dvi but then your tv does not work would be
*forcing some crazy resolution
*Bad or too long of Hdmi cable
*bad Hdmi port on the TV
or maybe if it is on a crazy refresh rate (not positive on that one)
*Trying to run both displays at the same time, if you card is unable or incorrectly set up

If it was me, hook it up as simple as possible. While your monitor is plugged in, lower your resolution as low as it can go on your settings, plug your computer directly into an Hdmi port on the tv and see what happens. Also, updating your drivers never hurt either...

Worse case scenario is you would have to change it back in safe mode if things got real messed up.
 

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Quick question guys, when building, do the ports rails need to be equal distances apart from each other? Would the tuning get messed up if they were not?
 

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Hey all,

I'm looking to build a sub for my home theatre and just came across the martysub.

I've read through the faq and cant decide what to build.

My room is 1570 cubic feet. 13.7 ft x 13.7 ft x 8.3ft high.

I was originally thinking a 15" ported sub build with a dayton ultimax 15".
They are out of stock.

Then I found the martysub and they all seem to use the 18" driver, which also seem to be out of stock.

Can anyone recommend which martysub might suit my room?

Thanks heaps
 

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What are you looking to get out of your sub?
How big can it be?
Price point?
Amplification?
The Micro was designed with a 15.

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Hi Muzz,

Home theatre setup is used for both movies and music.
I like the idea of a ported sub as it can go both louder and lower.

I need to buy an amp, was aiming for the NU1000DSP - $199. And need to buy the subwoofer, $150-200 max

Size isnt a huge issue. But wasn't planning on a huge build like the full size martysub
 

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It all depends upon the dbs you wish to hit. The 15" with a inuke 1k will go to about 105 dbs OK. After that it will struggle.
 

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Hi Muzz,

Home theatre setup is used for both movies and music.
I like the idea of a ported sub as it can go both louder and lower.

I need to buy an amp, was aiming for the NU1000DSP - $199. And need to buy the subwoofer, $150-200 max

Size isnt a huge issue. But wasn't planning on a huge build like the full size martysub
Small room, small budget - perfect candidate for an Infinity 1262W 12" ported sub build.
It is generally accepted that you have a better chance of obtaining even bass response with multiple smaller subwoofers rather than a single large one. A pair of 1262W's will be well within your budget (check SonicElectronix) and are very well suited for home audio (music or movies). They function well in a smallish 4.0 cubic feet net ported enclosure, providing similar extension as the larger Full Marty subs but with less output. They should also function well with the small NU1000DSP amp.
I am using 4 of these in my similarly sized room and can hit 115 db with extension down to 15hz at 110 db. Enough for me, but mild compared to many setups in this forum.
Let me know if you are interested and I can give some more detail on the build.
 

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Thanks for the info david, does sound like an option.

The hard part of this build is cost get out of hand quickly.
Im from Australia so everything that people recommend is about 1.5 times the US cost.
Also a lot of products if sourced from Australia have ridiculous markup.

I love the idea of the UM-18 build, but the speaker and amp would be getting close to $1000 aud shipped.

Im thinking around half that.

I might try and see if i can get onto a wholesaler in Australia for some dayton speakers, see what the cost works out to be.
 

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The hard part of this build is cost get out of hand quickly.
I'm from Australia so everything that people recommend is about 1.5 times the US cost.
Also a lot of products if sourced from Australia have ridiculous markup.
I love the idea of the UM-18 build, but the speaker and amp would be getting close to $1000 aud shipped.
I'm thinking around half that.
I might try and see if i can get onto a wholesaler in Australia for some Dayton speakers, see what the cost works out to be.

Good luck with that.

 

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Off hand, I think an Inuke 3000dsp is $300usd, a um18-22 is $279. Add to that a minimum of 1 sheet of MDF, $30 of cables and plugs, and probably $30 of glue, sealer, paint, sandpaper, etc. It is hard to do for less than $650 in the US (just add in those other things, like $20 of new belts and sanding pads, $20 for a new carbide router bit, the sheet of 1/2" mdf scrap that you cut up for the skill saw jig and the router jig).

Of course if you blink, it becomes 4 sheets of MDF (plus that sheet of 1/2) 2 speakers, a 6000dsp, and a mic for REW... - and $1300 is behind you.
 

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Off hand, I think an Inuke 3000dsp is $300usd, a um18-22 is $279. Add to that a minimum of 1 sheet of MDF, $30 of cables and plugs, and probably $30 of glue, sealer, paint, sandpaper, etc. It is hard to do for less than $650 in the US (just add in those other things, like $20 of new belts and sanding pads, $20 for a new carbide router bit, the sheet of 1/2" mdf scrap that you cut up for the skill saw jig and the router jig).

Of course if you blink, it becomes 4 sheets of MDF (plus that sheet of 1/2) 2 speakers, a 6000dsp, and a mic for REW... - and $1300 is behind you.
 

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Well damn,

I just done some research on the 1262w subs, good price from sonic electronix.
I was thinking i could buy a couple to get started, then add another couple down the track if needed.

All was going well, until i realised they wont post infinity stuff outside the US.

And I cant seem to find anywhere in Australia that sells them..

Now what do i do.... lol
 

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Thanks for the info david, does sound like an option.

The hard part of this build is cost get out of hand quickly.
Im from Australia so everything that people recommend is about 1.5 times the US cost.
Also a lot of products if sourced from Australia have ridiculous markup.

I love the idea of the UM-18 build, but the speaker and amp would be getting close to $1000 aud shipped.

Im thinking around half that.

I might try and see if i can get onto a wholesaler in Australia for some dayton speakers, see what the cost works out to be.
I live in Vic and have two 18" Dayton Ultimax's coming. I bought the iNuke 6000dsp locally for 899 Aud. Its still far cheaper than buying 2x branded subs. Forget the exchange rate just make sure all purchases are under $1000 otherwise you will get slugged on import duties. I think there are other brand 18" sub drivers available in Aus but not sure how good they are.

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I started just wanting an Inuke3000 and a single little sub in the corner. I now have inuke6000 sitting in the box, I started cutting MDF last night for a full Marty and the plan is to make a cube for my Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" and somehow sell my soul to get a DS4-18 for the Full. This is addicting and I have just started...
 

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It is addicting, lol. The full Marty and Mini Marty are nearly the same performance wise in the real world but, the full Marty was a little easier to build for me. They both sound great. I use them 90% for music.
 

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I've had microcube, martycube, minimarty, and full Marty, had 1,2,3 and now 4. It is a search for exactly what you want to hear and feel. I reached Nirvana with two minimarty up front with uxl drivers. Then two microcubes right behind couch for nearfield tactile. I can't hit 130dbs but don't need to . everyone's Nirvana is different. Once you reach it it feels good . you simply enjoy the system and I don't wonder what if anymore.

It did take about 8 different sub combinations to find it :)
 

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I think with my two subs, that are close to Johnny size are plenty for me on the low end. After I add my Infinity subs for near field, I can't imagine needing more in this room. The rumble I get now is awesome. It sounds great and I haven't done any EQing yet. I did move them to the center of the wall each one flanking me and they sound amazingly better.
 

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If I do the maths on the dimensions for the Full Marty (24x25.5x48) it comes out to 17cuft, is the quoted 11cuft taking into account the braces and the port taking up interior volume?

If I can afford a little more room dimension wise for a slightly larger Full Marty, could it be tuned even lower? Like ~15Hz?
 
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