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Does anyone have a cut list for the microcube? I can’t tell what dimensions are HxWxD because it doesn’t specify
 

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Just built two using the above cut list.


Jeremy
I figured it out. Numbers on the right is width.

How far is the port rails from the inside on the side walls?
 

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If recall correctly I think I did 6.5” from each side.

21 - 1.5=19.5

19.5/3=6.5


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Ahh could be. I haven't built one and just looked up this pic, which made me think that the bottom was on the inside of the side pieces.

 

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I figured it out. Numbers on the right is width.

How far is the port rails from the inside on the side walls?
7" to the CENTER of the rails... EDIT: 6-7/8" to center from each side will give you three equal 6-1/2" ports, as already posted by jeremyland.
 

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7" to the CENTER of the rails... EDIT: 6-7/8" to center from each side will give you three equal 6-1/2" ports, as already posted by jeremyland.
So from the walls to the center of the rails is ~7” like poorly illustrated below?

 

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So from the walls to the center of the rails is ~7” like poorly illustrated below?
Honestly, it doesn't really matter except for aesthetics. If they're a little off no big deal performance-wise.

Centers on 7 and 14" would be just fine, don't overthink it.
 

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Sorry if this has been covered — I gave a search a try with not much coming back. For those of you with a Full Marty (17 Hz), has it been good for music as well?

Someone mentioned in another thread about their subwoofer not really impressing them for music in the first two octaves (or content between 30 to 80 Hz). It wasn’t a Marty, but it was a large ported box tuned to 14 Hz. If maybe two smaller UM15 Micro Martys would work better for 80/20 music to movies then I would switch my plan over a single 18” Full Marty with the UM18. I plan on using the iNuke 6000DSP or similar.

My room is 12’ wide x 30’ long. Thanks for the help deciding! I can’t afford everything right now but I want to get the enclosures built.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/2958434-bafflesteppe-sound-room.html#/topics/2958434
 

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Someone mentioned in another thread about their subwoofer not really impressing them for music in the first two octaves (or content between 30 to 80 Hz). It wasn’t a Marty, but it was a large ported box tuned to 14 Hz. If maybe two smaller UM15 Micro Martys would work better for 80/20 music to movies then I would switch my plan over a single 18” Full Marty with the UM18. I plan on using the iNuke 6000DSP or similar.
I believe you're asking way too much of a giant 18" cone to produce anything more than ULF. Not only is the driver busy delivering some pretty difficult work at those low frequencies, but given the moving mass, it isn't as well suited to the higher bass frequencies in the first place. My Marty is done and crossed out at 50 (at 18db/oct).
 

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I believe you're asking way too much of a giant 18" cone to produce anything more than ULF. Not only is the driver busy delivering some pretty difficult work at those low frequencies, but given the moving mass, it isn't as well suited to the higher bass frequencies in the first place. My Marty is done and crossed out at 50 (at 18db/oct).
Huh!? That's the cabinet limiting the upper frequency output not the speaker itself. Tune it higher if need be....
 

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Huh!? That's the cabinet limiting the upper frequency output not the speaker itself. Tune it higher if need be....
I think the "huh" is back on you. I am explicitly crossing out the top end of my sub so that the driver doesn't have to try to reproduce frequencies it is not very good at doing. That is happening well before where the driver might try to operate without being crossed out. While the drive can reasonably emit sound well into the 2k range, that doesn't mean it is good at it, or that you would ever want to hear it. I can't imagine anyone intentionally not using some kind of low pass filter, especially on such a large driver, to eliminate those upper frequencies from the signal. Also, port tuning is not how you would (in any meaningful way) manipulate the low pass.
 

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I think the "huh" is back on you. I am explicitly crossing out the top end of my sub so that the driver doesn't have to try to reproduce frequencies it is not very good at doing. That is happening well before where the driver might try to operate without being crossed out. While the drive can reasonably emit sound well into the 2k range, that doesn't mean it is good at it, or that you would ever want to hear it. I can't imagine anyone intentionally not using some kind of low pass filter, especially on such a large driver, to eliminate those upper frequencies from the signal. Also, port tuning is not how you would (in any meaningful way) manipulate the low pass.
I agree 100% on all accounts. I have my low pass at 225Hz w/ 24dB butterworth.

As to @brettus

You most definitely do not want a UM of any model in a micro box. The UM’s need a mini sized box at minimum. The Dayton Reference HO is ideally made for the micro. I just built one and it rocks to only be 3.75cuft
 

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Sorry if this has been covered — I gave a search a try with not much coming back. For those of you with a Full Marty (17 Hz), has it been good for music as well?

Someone mentioned in another thread about their subwoofer not really impressing them for music in the first two octaves (or content between 30 to 80 Hz). It wasn’t a Marty, but it was a large ported box tuned to 14 Hz. If maybe two smaller UM15 Micro Martys would work better for 80/20 music to movies then I would switch my plan over a single 18” Full Marty with the UM18. I plan on using the iNuke 6000DSP or similar.

My room is 12’ wide x 30’ long. Thanks for the help deciding! I can’t afford everything right now but I want to get the enclosures built.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/2958434-bafflesteppe-sound-room.html#/topics/2958434
You might want to consider the PA subs/woofers like the PA460 if on a budget or B&C is you want more output. If you haven't heard them before you should try and listen to some before you decide on what to go with. There are quite a few people here using PA drivers. @eng-399 might be who you are thinking of that has B&C 21s tuned somewhere around 14-15hz.

I have UM18s and a couple different PA subs and for music, I really like the sound of the PA woofers. The UM18 cannot touch the PA woofers from around 40hz up where most music bass is. They two sound much different. Here is a WIND to give you an idea of what they look like in [email protected]
 

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Sorry if this has been covered — I gave a search a try with not much coming back. For those of you with a Full Marty (17 Hz), has it been good for music as well?

Someone mentioned in another thread about their subwoofer not really impressing them for music in the first two octaves (or content between 30 to 80 Hz). It wasn’t a Marty, but it was a large ported box tuned to 14 Hz. If maybe two smaller UM15 Micro Martys would work better for 80/20 music to movies then I would switch my plan over a single 18” Full Marty with the UM18. I plan on using the iNuke 6000DSP or similar.

My room is 12’ wide x 30’ long. Thanks for the help deciding! I can’t afford everything right now but I want to get the enclosures built.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/2958434-bafflesteppe-sound-room.html#/topics/2958434


Sent you a pm
 

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@labboypro @brettus @DaBateman @bscool: Thanks for all the feedback, guys.

You have a PM, @eng-399.

I like option of doing two smaller Marty Cubes ported to 20 Hz, loaded with the RSS390HO-4 15" or similar. My in-room gain would probably make 17 Hz realistic.

Wouldn't mind changing the design entirely to a pair of PA460 PA subs or the like (VBSS?), as @bscool suggested. Either way, I want to do a matching pair to help with room modes and basic balance and badassery.

Thinking a 21" sub is going to be out of my price range from what I've seen.

Options, options.
 

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HI All - I am going to build a mini marty soon and had a question about the bracing. Does the bracing provide any support for the subwoofer / magnet at all (such as having a vertical brace that supports the magnet) or is the only wood contact with the sub the front baffle?
Is there an agreed upon number of braces / style that is sufficient so as not to waste time / wood?
 
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