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during the break-in period of a hitachi rpcrt, is it not wise to leave the tv on for long periods of time (with the contrast/brightness settings down low)? i watch about 2 hours of tv a day, on average (at most), and was thinking of just running some dvds on it even if i'm not watching it, just so it can get broken in. they say 100 hours is the break in time that is recommended? are there any adverse affects to taking your time at breaking the thing in? if not, then i'll probably just stick to my 1-dvd-a-day routine.
thanks for the help.
 

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Hi,


Good for you your reading the important stuff. Most imporantly prior to having an ISF Calibration and foreve after you should make sure the Brightnes & Contrast re not set over 50% tp protect against burnn.


With regard to "seasoning the set" it's not necessasary unless you've made an apointment with an SF tech already who would need t broken in to make sre that his convegence doesn't wander.


lOtherwise allowing it to mellow with you should be fine, but itsyour call.


Peter M.
 

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what about dvd's that don't take up the whole screen and leave little black bars on the top and bottom of the screen? could they be a source for burn-in? how do i go about fixing the problem?
 

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hi,


its supposed to look that way. not a problem. just make sure brightness & contrast at 50%.


Peter m.
 

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When ageing your set for the first initial couple hours how likely will channel logos burn on
They scare me being white(maxium wear on all phosphors)and they are on channels %75 of the time, im scared, how likely will burn in happen? should i stick to logoless channels like HBO for the initial 200hour~ of torch mode? Am i supposed to have contrast/brightness at %50 for the initial few hundred hours of phosphor wear?
 

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I was under the impression, which may be wrong, that dlp tvs use a projection light bulb, that goes through the dmd, then through the color wheel...and projects like onto a film-screen which has a protective glass/hard-like covering over it so it doesn't get damaged.


That effectively, its just light being signed into a projector screen thats semi-transparent from the rear with a bunch of high tech components between the bulb/screen to maximize reoslution, contrast blah blah blah.


I also see on many DLP projection companes like ...ohh Optoma "No burn in!" "No burn in!". its always been my thoughts Plasma cells can have image rention and eventually burn in if an image is retained to long because Plasma is somehow an organic material or something like that which as a 'memory'.


I don't think my lightbulb to the best of my knowledge could burn in. I mean. I have left kitchen lights turned on for 24 hours straight, came back...and no burn in. Also I didn't think the projector screen could be burn in. i mean the lgiht from my bulb has hit my floor/walls for 24 hours straight and I don't see burn in on my walls.




Though when I got my Toshiba DLP tv delivered they warned me...DON'T LEAVE THE BLACK BARS ON 4.3 TV. ALWAYS STRETCH it to 16:9 using theatremode 1 or 2 until they are not black bars....or it will RECK YOUR TVVVVVVVVVVVVV!!!



They kept saiyng over and over again putting emphasis that burn it will occur/does occur and will break tvs. Though I don't think either the bulb or projector can possibly burn in. Are these guys just morons?
 

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Well, i did a guided search today from google.


72MX195 Burn in

Toshiba 72mx195 burn in


dlp burn in


etc.


Every reference I found was from places like cnet, shopping centers, or what to buy threads, etc listing how 'DLP HAS NO BURN IN'. etc etc.


Should I get a plasma or dlp? dlp has no burn in and plasma does. I am sorry about it and worried if it will burn in.


I couldn't find one report saying "I have a toshiba 72mx195 and it has image retention...and it is burn in...and blah blah blah...and...
 

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Hi,


If you are lucky enough to have a dedicated Media room that visitors will not see unless you invite them into it, get the largest CRT based rptv that you can afford

and have it ISF calibrated.


CRT RPTVs give yhe best picture for the lkeast money.


However, women hate them because their big and ugly so if you can keep it from dominating your living dining/room, and put it elsewhere you'll save thousands


Peter M.
 

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OK, my 65" Hitachi rear projection CRT is officially BURNED IN. 28 months of watching most shows not stretched and I have lighter bars on both sides of the screen where the black bars are if not in HD. I get HD networks off the air and HD HBO off Directv and now watch standard Directv stretched but networks unstretched.


The main portion of the screen has a slightly darker reddish hue, usually only noticed with lighter colored images but it is making me crazy. My wife says it is OK, but I want to do something.


Anyone know if I can replace one bulb or do I need to do all three???


Is it the red since that is the color I see?


Is it self do-able?


I just recently saw the contrast was at 100 (Crap...)


The set is the 65S700, great picture, built in HD tuner and great before it's time. I just took off the protective screen to remove the glare and am VERY happy but the burn in is a bummer.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by utvnut /forum/post/0


OK, my 65" Hitachi rear projection CRT is officially BURNED IN. 28 months of watching most shows not stretched and I have lighter bars on both sides of the screen where the black bars are if not in HD. I get HD networks off the air and HD HBO off Directv and now watch standard Directv stretched but networks unstretched.


The main portion of the screen has a slightly darker reddish hue, usually only noticed with lighter colored images but it is making me crazy. My wife says it is OK, but I want to do something.


Anyone know if I can replace one bulb or do I need to do all three???


Is it the red since that is the color I see?


Is it self do-able?


I just recently saw the contrast was at 100 (Crap...)


The set is the 65S700, great picture, built in HD tuner and great before it's time. I just took off the protective screen to remove the glare and am VERY happy but the burn in is a bummer.

I just recently replaced two of the three tubes in my 4 year old Hitachi 53" which was showing the same burn-in you're describing: non-stretched SD material. So the good news is that it is a fixable problem, but the bad news is that the repair needs to be done by a service tech (the bulbs are not "plug and play") and the CRT tubes are spendy and hard to find. I think I paid around $290 per tube, so it ended up being $600 in parts and $100 for the service call. The service call would have been more had they done the research on finding the replacement tubes, but as I did my own research & bought the parts myself I was able to get a bit of a deal.


The reason I opted to do this rather than buy a new set was that after getting the problem properly diagnosed (the green and blue tubes burn in far worse and more frequently than the red tube), it would have cost far more for a new HDTV of any kind than it would to fix the old set, which really isn't all that old. It now has a stunning picture, and one that will have to be permanently stretched to avoid further problems. It is possible if your set is only 28 months old you can still get parts fairly easily, and order them yourself after a tech determines which tubes are the most burned-in. With a set that new, it seems impossible that all three tubes are bad...if you're lucky it might just be one.


Good luck!
 

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How do you figure which ones are burned?


Where did you find parts?


I google with no luck and I do not trust Sears, where I bought it. I have no problem spending 3 to 6 hundred to fix a $3500 set.


My center 90% is darker (reddish) than the edges.


Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by utvnut /forum/post/0


How do you figure which ones are burned?


Where did you find parts?


I google with no luck and I do not trust Sears, where I bought it. I have no problem spending 3 to 6 hundred to fix a $3500 set.


My center 90% is darker (reddish) than the edges.


Thanks

The technician that helped me had a device where he could project the light from one tube at a time on the screen. The image direct from the green and blue tubes was terrible; each showed the burn-in which was well defined with the bars on the sides of the screen, and by seeing each color individually, we also found burned in images I had not noticed before, like channel logos, etc. I later learned that you can replicate this method by finding an image on a color calibration dvd like Avia, etc., which has an all blue, all green etc screen - but you will be best off with a tech who has the proper tools.


I called Hitachi's 800 number to find parts dealers and requested several distributors from them. Pacific Coast Parts in Oregon, I think, was where I found one of the last blue tubes available in our region for that model set. I lucked out and found the green tube on Ebay - a gamble, but it worked.


Not sure what is causing the reddish tint you're seeing on your set, since all the folks I talked to in doing my research said that the green & blue tubes have the greatest trouble with burn-in; red is seldom involved.


My set also cost $3500 and I also felt the same way about the repair and investment - if I can get another four years out of it, I'll be very happy. By then maybe LCD or DLP tv's will match or surpass the quality of CRT sets, but to my eyes they're not there yet.
 

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From an earlier post:

Just put up grey bars or white bars for the side and don't display anything in the middle. How? The time it takes to "erase" the burn-in will be in direct proportion to the amount of time that was spent watching 4:3 content with the black bars


How safe is this and will it actually work over time? ........Is it ok to display a constant black image in the middle with grey bars on the side?
 

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I have had my Hitachi rptv for at least 8 years now and have never had a single burn in problem, i was wondering if it would be safe to play games on it. I recently purchased a Yamaha Htr 5890 av reciever and planned on using digital cable to connect my ps2 to my reciever. From there i planned on using the componet monitor output to connect my reciever to my rear projection tv. Please if you have any tips or information to give me on this topic please dont hisitate.
 

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 Extron videoshift

"Just" 200 $
and you could solve your burn-in problem!!!

I couldn't find the price on the site, but I found the device on ebay at around 200 bucks.



BUt maybe there could be another, cheaper possibility:
How to generate video signals with a PIC microcontroller

How to build a video superimposer with a PIC microcontroller


Maybe these projects could be a starting point to build a simple "plug-in" for TV sets, which just covers up the annoying logo and replaces them with a black rectangle? Not nice, but plasma TV sets would be safe!
 

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Another idea: next generation's plasmas could imlpement SW/HW which gives just the suggested PIC effect (or better, it could gray out an user-selectable screen area).
 

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How common is image retention on a LCD RPTV? I have a Sony KDF-50E2000 and see light vertcal lines to the left & right of the screen. Looks like border marks from 4:3 viewing. This should go away correct? I've been doing searchers all over and found very little about this subject with RP LCD's. Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner /forum/post/0


How common is image retention on a LCD RPTV? I have a Sony KDF-50E2000 and see light vertcal lines to the left & right of the screen. Looks like border marks from 4:3 viewing. This should go away correct? I've been doing searchers all over and found very little about this subject with RP LCD's. Thanks

"RP"?

"Rear projection" LCD??? I thought only CRTs could be "RP"! How can an LCD panel be "rear-projected"???


And could LCD suffer from burn-in? There's nothing to be burnt, just crystals oriented in one way or in another and light passing through or not, no phosphors... I think!


I must investigate about this...
 
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