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For now I want to try their instructions and see what happens. Hopefully it will get resolved so I didn't waste my money. I have a 15' cable and it's just not quite long enough to be convenient. I have a 25' in my wish list ready to go though. :) I've almost purchased it several times, but I thought I read somewhere (maybe it was for the UMIK mic for REW?) that 15' was the max for reliable connection.


I bought this and it works for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_i4rhEb5PRSPDN



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks, clear now. From the measurements, it is not clear why you perceive the room curve as having more bass. And what is the huge dip at 60Hz? That has to be audible. Moving the sub around will likely make that dip less severe. Have you tried alternate locations? PEQ is not going to correct it.
Last night I made a quick treatment with polyfil behind the sub. The dip got much better, earned 10db. :)
Tonight I will try to make it even better. Now I know what the problem is.
 

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I think my miniDSP died today. I'm hoping someone might have an idea of something else to try to get it working again. Here's what happened:

- It was working last night.
- This morning I disconnected it to take physical measurements on it for 3D printed wall mount that's being designed.
- I hooked everything up the same way it was before. One thing to note is that my system was off at the time.
- I started playing a test tone to verify that I hooked everything back up correctly. Nothing was coming from the subs or BOSS.

So I started trouble shooting it and tried all of the basics:
- Rebooted the miniDSP
- Checked the plugin. It's showing meter lights on all the inputs and outputs.
- I plugged one of the amps directly to my AVR and it played correctly. Putting the miniDSP back in the chain results in no sound. So it's definitely the miniDSP that's the issue.
- In the plugin I did a Factory Reset. No change after it was completed.
- I unplugged it as a long shot when I went to dinner to see if it needed a harder power cycle with no luck.

Everything looks correct. Any suggestions on anything else to try?


Nevermind. I just figured it out and back up and running. Keeping this in case someone else runs into it. It looks like the units are sensitive to the power adapter they're plugged in with. I accidentally used the wrong one. There was one from an old device hanging out that I grabbed by mistake. When I switched to the correct power supply everything started working.
 

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In the BEQ thread it was recommended to lower the input 1 for each decibel one would raise in an EQ. So I have an LS @20hz +5db that I should lower the input level 1 by -5db in order to avoid digital clipping.

I had always lowered the overall master volume of the MiniDSP by -5 dB. Is lowering the input level better/different? Measurement wise I see no difference. I am just curious especially with regards to BassEQ (BEQ).

TIA
 

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In the BEQ thread it was recommended to lower the input 1 for each decibel one would raise in an EQ. So I have an LS @20hz +5db that I should lower the input level 1 by -5db in order to avoid digital clipping.

I had always lowered the overall master volume of the MiniDSP by -5 dB. Is lowering the input level better/different? Measurement wise I see no difference. I am just curious especially with regards to BassEQ (BEQ).

TIA

You can verify by playing since waves (from REW or other) at 0dB in your AVR, with your subwoofer amplifiers turned off. Look in MiniDSP and see what the levels are at. If you properly gain matched your system before applying any EQ, there should not be any issues - but you can still confirm.
 

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I changed out all the caps on my speakers and had to run audessey. Completed and was watching stuff and noticed no slam in the bass region. Palm, meets head. Audessey smoothed out the house curve I had programmed into dsp. So I'll be running the process again.
My question is for those that add a house curve, what region of the frequency did you accentuate how and why.
 

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I changed out all the caps on my speakers and had to run audessey. Completed and was watching stuff and noticed no slam in the bass region. Palm, meets head. Audessey smoothed out the house curve I had programmed into dsp. So I'll be running the process again.
My question is for those that add a house curve, what region of the frequency did you accentuate how and why.
You can't add a house curve before Audyssey - as Audyssey has (most likely) a different curve, that it's targeting therefore messing up yours.

Whatever house curve you're after should be edited in the MultiEQ app when you use Audyssey, and/or for subs apply it after Audyssey has run.
 

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I changed out all the caps on my speakers and had to run audessey. Completed and was watching stuff and noticed no slam in the bass region. Palm, meets head. Audessey smoothed out the house curve I had programmed into dsp. So I'll be running the process again.
My question is for those that add a house curve, what region of the frequency did you accentuate how and why.
I agree with what @Fackamato says.

In case you are interested, I have attached a screenshot of my house curve, which is done in Dirac Live's custom target editor (after the calibration). It is based on Sean Olive's research WRT what average listeners prefer with a room's bass response. The curve starts a gradual increase at ~300Hz, and rises to +6.5dB at 50Hz. Here is a link to Olive's research:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ocp8oxi93yaqml/Sean%20Olive%20on%20Target%20Responses.pdf?dl=1
 

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I changed out all the caps on my speakers and had to run audessey. Completed and was watching stuff and noticed no slam in the bass region. Palm, meets head. Audessey smoothed out the house curve I had programmed into dsp. So I'll be running the process again.
My question is for those that add a house curve, what region of the frequency did you accentuate how and why.
In an attempt to answer your question, I will quote a post I made today in another thread:

"A house curve is a slowly rising response and is meant to mimic the Harman curve/Equal Loudness Contours. In my room, I've found that I need about 10dB more at 30Hz than 100Hz.

Find some 30Hz and 100Hz test tones, listen carefully to each tone and adjust the MV so that they sound equal in volume at the MLP. The MV difference between the two is how steep your house curve should be.

The upper/lower cut-off frequencies are based on personal preference, the capabilities of your sub(s), and where you have your crossover set.


Here is a great article on house curves if you are interested.

House Curve: What it is, why you need it, how to do it"
 

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But it stops at 30Hz! :eek:
:confused:
Michael
That is a curve for the left and right speakers, which have a native in-room response -3dB down to ~30Hz. The "curtain" instructs Dirac to stop correcting at 30Hz. The speakers are actually crossed over at 100Hz, so there isn't much going on down there. The sub curve, however, extends to 15Hz. Happier now? ;)
 

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Thanks all for the info. I had read Wayne's article for the second time before posting and it's actually why I asked my questions. I did have what I thought was a house curve that apperently was not. I do understand adding it after audassey . Just forgot the new toy in the chain when running audessey after capping.
I like what I'm hearing as it makes sense. One of the other things I'm doing is stopping the use of DEQ hence the importance of the house curve.
Regards
 

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Reading the posts again. While I have the ability to use multi eq app{ratbuddy has made it easier}, why wouldn't I use the mini it's simpler is it not.
Regarding Alan P suggestion to find 30-100hz test tones. Pink noise? Can do through rew then?
Rich
 

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Hi! I have a problem with my minidsp 2x4. When I engaged the crossover at 19Hz to limit the low bass output I get a huge dip at 100Hz when I measure sub+center. Why is that? REW eq file has been applied at the input eq.
 

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I had something similar happen when I applied a 25hz filter to my 2 rear subs in a 4 sub setup. I suspect it has to do with a phase relationship from the combination of the chosen slope and frequency of the filter. Bottom line for me was the "interference dip" was minimized by experimenting with both those parameters. In my case a 48dB slope (can't remember LR or BW) worked best. I'm sure somebody can explain the science and math behind this but I really can't. I just know what worked out for me.


My setup uses 4 identical subs near the room corners. Front pair each have dedicated 20A circuits and the 2 rear subs are forced to share a common 15A line that also powers the rest of the room so I am more or less forced to reduce the power hungry lowest frequencies to that pair unless I want to blow a breaker every night :(
 

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I had something similar happen when I applied a 25hz filter to my 2 rear subs in a 4 sub setup. I suspect it has to do with a phase relationship from the combination of the chosen slope and frequency of the filter. Bottom line for me was the "interference dip" was minimized by experimenting with both those parameters. In my case a 48dB slope (can't remember LR or BW) worked best. I'm sure somebody can explain the science and math behind this but I really can't. I just know what worked out for me.


My setup uses 4 identical subs near the room corners. Front pair each have dedicated 20A circuits and the 2 rear subs are forced to share a common 15A line that also powers the rest of the room so I am more or less forced to reduce the power hungry lowest frequencies to that pair unless I want to blow a breaker every night :(
Thank you, that makes sense because I reversed te sub phase. I will test different slopes tomorrow.

UPDATE:
@dryeye, tried any possible XO combination. Dip won't go away :(
 

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Have you tried changing the delay of the sub in your AVR? That's about all I can think of to fix the dip.
 

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Have you tried changing the delay of the sub in your AVR? That's about all I can think of to fix the dip.
delays are already set for mains and center. If I change delay to fix minidsp crossover I get many other dips back.
 

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delays are already set for mains and center. If I change delay to fix minidsp crossover I get many other dips back.
He is talking about the “sub distance tweak”. Delays for the mains in the AVR are set by room correction and should not be altered. What room correction doesn’t do is align the combined sub signal with the mains. A symptom of this misalignment is unevenness in the response in the neighborhood of the crossover. The typical approach to fix this is the “sub distance tweak”, in which the combined sub distance in the AVR (or in the MiniDSP) is adjusted up or down in small increments (1 ft at a time), while re-measuring subs+mains after each adjustment. This tweak can dramatically affect, or improve, the flatness of the response around the crossover. You have nothing to lose by trying this fix. Make sure you apply any distance tweak to all subs by the same amount.
 
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