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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
From time to time I've seen builds posted where the screen wall looks like a load bearing wall, so last week when I had mine apart for carpet installation I took a couple of pics to document my approach which is minimal and considering I intend to join the 2:35 club at some point easy to modify.

UPDATE 10/29/2017

With the PhotoBucket Apocalypse, 2000 of my linked pictures have been redacted by the bean counters at PB who think they actually need to run the company with a positive bottom line. So I'm going to grab a bunch of my minimalist framing pictures and stick them here. You should note that my designs evolve and that depending on the theater may look different one from the other. My goal has always been to keep it simple. Just enough to hold the screen frame and provide enough of a structure to keep the fabric panels surrounding the screen vertical.

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more to follow
 

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Thanks for the backstage reveal. I am in the process of trying to redo my AT 2.40:1 setup with a different screen mount and and masking setup. The velcro tip is appreciated!
 

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Funny, that after I finished building my front false wall, I thought why am I overbuilding this wall. Then you put out this thread.


 

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Nice job. A lot of it depends on the size and weight of the screen as to how 'bare' you can go with the framing.


Bryan
 

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Is your screen attached via velcro as well?


It is nice to see you finally got carpet... Looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #6

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_hinni /forum/post/0


Is your screen attached via velcro as well?


It is nice to see you finally got carpet... Looks great!

The screen is a Stewart with the deluxe frame. It mounts with 4 large head screws. The frame has 4 brackets. Each bracket has a slotted hole that fits over the the head of the screw and when you lower it an inch it's locked in place. If you look close at the first pic you will see 4 white spots on the inner vertical supports. That's the screw heads sticking out and the paint roller didn't make complete contact.


With the GOM panel resting on top it's wedged into place and isn't going anywhere.


Bpape: I'd say the design would hold about a 150 lb frame.


As for the carpet, Yes I'm glad it's finally in. Now I just have to finish the bar get the counter tops, do the backsplash and then it's on to the spa bathroom. However right in the middle of the room the carpet has a flaw and tomorrow an inspector from Masland is coming to document the problem and recommend a remedy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog /forum/post/0


Big, carpet looks great. Is that black on the stage?

Bud

Thanks. Yes, black, we wanted to duplicate the shape over the top. I think I'll be buying lint rollers by the case. Virtually no reflection from the screen.
 

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It's hard to tell from your pictures: How deep are spaces behind the false walls? How wide an opening should you make for a speaker?


With my ceiling treatment, my false wall can come out about 18". I know that will fit my Paradigm mini-monitors just fine, but is that deep enough to not preclude upgrading my speakers in the future? How deep are good speakers these days? How much space do they need behind them?


How close can the framing of the false wall come to the speakers before you'll start getting acoustic problems? Do you need 2.5' on both sides of the speaker location?
 

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LOL, good speakers is a relative term and one of those ask a hundred people get a hundred answers.

I have 24" from surface of faux wall to treated wall. my REVEL M22's are about 12" deep. The C52 center is a bit deeper but not much.


If your speakers are not rear ported you can get away with less room than if they are. All three of my fronts are behind my Smx screen.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall /forum/post/0


LOL, good speakers is a relative term

Yeah, I didn't mean to open up the 'good' speaker can of worms! I'm mostly trying to avoid building a theater that will work with my current speakers but not prevent any reasonable upgrades. To me a reasonable upgrade means
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/0


I started with 2 rectangular frames of finger joined pine trim boards. Connected on the top and bottom with a cross member. I doubled up the outside leg with a space between the two boards.

What dimension of boards did you use, and did you use the same boards for your frames that you wrapped the fabric around?


I'm also curious if you needed to make sure these were screwed into a joist on the ceiling, or if just into the drywall was good enough?


I've been admiring your screenwall for almost a year now, it is nice to take a look at the magic behind the fabric. Simple is good.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer /forum/post/0


It's hard to tell from your pictures: How deep are spaces behind the false walls? How wide an opening should you make for a speaker?


With my ceiling treatment, my false wall can come out about 18". I know that will fit my Paradigm mini-monitors just fine, but is that deep enough to not preclude upgrading my speakers in the future? How deep are good speakers these days? How much space do they need behind them?


How close can the framing of the false wall come to the speakers before you'll start getting acoustic problems? Do you need 2.5' on both sides of the speaker location?

My false wall is flush with the front of the "stage" with is 2'-0 1/8" deep.

Im using B&W 604's which are also flush with the front of the false wall/stage.

The yellow lines are the 2" OC 703 Bryan (bpape) designed into the room.

The purple box with red speakers is the an IB that will be in the ceiling/attic.

 

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Discussion Starter #14

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer /forum/post/0


I guess I'm looking for the answer to this question:


"You won't be limiting yourself much in speaker selection department if you have ___ (fill in the blank) inches of space behind your screen wall. "


Any takers?

36 or 48 inches. Keep in mind that if you do an AT screen that there should be some distance between the front of the screen and the speaker. I think it's in the neighborhood of 10 inches. I haven't seen many speakers deeper than 24 inches. Also they recommend having the speaker well in front of the wall so it adds up.


High quality in-walls would solve your 18 inch limitation.
 

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I ended up with about 14 inches due to the limitations of a door to my equipment/concession area. The Ascends are not very deep, maybe 8 inches and port out the back. I've been very happy with the result. You have to do what you what you can within the limitations of the room, obstacles, etc.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...pstagedim.html


Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #16

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_hinni /forum/post/0


What dimension of boards did you use, and did you use the same boards for your frames that you wrapped the fabric around?


I'm also curious if you needed to make sure these were screwed into a joist on the ceiling, or if just into the drywall was good enough?


I've been admiring your screenwall for almost a year now, it is nice to take a look at the magic behind the fabric. Simple is good.

Without taking it apart again, I think the uprights were 1 1/4 x 3 (or 3 1/2)


Here is another shot of the bottom panel.



The smaller pieces were 1 1/4 x 1 1/2

I stuck a couple of pieces of larger stock on the ends for a little stability


Drywall was fine for me. (two layers)


the two side panels actually have pieces that are not square. Since they sit at an angle I cut all the pieces to fit the appropriate angles. If you look carefully at the pic you might spot it. Sorry don't have a close up.
 

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Big,


Carpet looks fantastic. Your wall has me once again chanting the "simple is better" mantra.
 

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Discussion Starter #19

Quote:
Originally Posted by ifeliciano /forum/post/0


Big,


Is the fabric above the chair rail GOM Cement Mix ? How does it look with the lights out and PJ on ?


Ivan

Crystal blue on the top, Baltic blue bottom, paint on trim and ceiling is Lowes Amercican traditions Drizzling Mist. Looks fine but does light up a bit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/0


Crystal blue.... Looks fine but does light up a bit.

Thanks!! Im looking into using Cement Mix or Steels Harbor and think both those colors will light up also, but we like them.



Great job on your space !
 
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