Missing Glue in Joint Fix/Bracing?

You can also use an oscillating saw to remove the PL.

Try the scraper blades as they are called first, I've never tried it myself but the scraper blade is smooth and removes paint, silicone, lap sealent, tar, flooring goop very well. You can use something like a metal blade with very small teeth and put a "bumper" on the front of the tool so when you hit the interior wall of the speaker--the blade can't go any farther (some tools have a depth adjustment to do the same thing)

The oscillating saw--or, also called the oscillating "multi-tool" works like a cast saw because it IS a cast saw! You can easily cut out the PL Premium from the joint and use the sander attachment to sand the corners. To get to the corners or sides, simply rotate the blade to the side or whatever angle works and remove the PL. I would then block in the PL with wood strips and tack them in with small screws to hold them in position as PL expands as it cures which would help fill in the board gap.

The last step would be purely optional and is on the OCD scale. Look for the gap between the wood after you did the interior box first. Take the scraper blade (the round type work well) and let the dull thing oscillate at 10 to 20 thousand oscillations per minute to slowly sand away the joint. That would leave you a gap about 1/16th of an inch at the joint when complete. I'd then attempt to pack in some form of expanding glue to fill the gap and remove any excess it squeezes out before it dries. Use the sander on your saw to smooth it out slowly. Will that additional step help? I dunno, but it might make you sleep better at night as two piece of wood won't be vibrating against each other.

No worries, I did that once when building a push-pull slot loaded sub--the agony of defeat. to fix it I lucked out. I didn't do the interior seams yet so window framed it first then used a hacksaw blade/box cutter blade to open the gap. Packed it with PL, sanded it down and slapped on the paint with no leaks. If you use Duratex, you can thin it out and use a syringe to inject it into the seam also--sand it smooth then rock on.

All depends on your OCD, I do know that oscillating saws are my go to for precise, very slim cuts and removing paint, adhesives etc. so give it a try. You can also modify the standard blades by cutting off the teeth (or grind them off) then take a file and put what bevel you like on the blade even a mild curve to help guide it into the gap. Leave the other side of the blade squared off to get it even into the corner.

Good luck with your work around, been there!

I should have asked this question right after I realized what I did. Instead I moved forward with the project. Sealing the seams, priming the interior, gluing up the front baffles and painting the 3 htm's(still have 4 unpainted ht12's).

Put off the rest of the project once I had seen Erin's review about the resonances. It had me extra worried since one of the questions that was asked was whether or not all the joints had been glued. What's even worse is I never marked which box it was as I used to be able to tell from the outside but I just realized the tell tale signs went away after I sanded . Whelp I may not have a choice now but to assemble them and test each one to see if one resonates differently than the others. Guess I can try and duplicate the resonances Erin found. Got a dats v3 as a birthday present not long ago so I should be able to test the driver for it’s own resonances so I can tell what’s the driver or enclosure.

Thanks for the help guys.

18Hurts said:

You can also use an oscillating saw to remove the PL.

Try the scraper blades as they are called first, I've never tried it myself but the scraper blade is smooth and removes paint, silicone, lap sealent, tar, flooring goop very well. You can use something like a metal blade with very small teeth and put a "bumper" on the front of the tool so when you hit the interior wall of the speaker--the blade can't go any farther (some tools have a depth adjustment to do the same thing)

The oscillating saw--or, also called the oscillating "multi-tool" works like a cast saw because it IS a cast saw! You can easily cut out the PL Premium from the joint and use the sander attachment to sand the corners. To get to the corners or sides, simply rotate the blade to the side or whatever angle works and remove the PL. I would then block in the PL with wood strips and tack them in with small screws to hold them in position as PL expands as it cures which would help fill in the board gap.

The last step would be purely optional and is on the OCD scale. Look for the gap between the wood after you did the interior box first. Take the scraper blade (the round type work well) and let the dull thing oscillate at 10 to 20 thousand oscillations per minute to slowly sand away the joint. That would leave you a gap about 1/16th of an inch at the joint when complete. I'd then attempt to pack in some form of expanding glue to fill the gap and remove any excess it squeezes out before it dries. Use the sander on your saw to smooth it out slowly. Will that additional step help? I dunno, but it might make you sleep better at night as two piece of wood won't be vibrating against each other.

No worries, I did that once when building a push-pull slot loaded sub--the agony of defeat. to fix it I lucked out. I didn't do the interior seams yet so window framed it first then used a hacksaw blade/box cutter blade to open the gap. Packed it with PL, sanded it down and slapped on the paint with no leaks. If you use Duratex, you can thin it out and use a syringe to inject it into the seam also--sand it smooth then rock on.

All depends on your OCD, I do know that oscillating saws are my go to for precise, very slim cuts and removing paint, adhesives etc. so give it a try. You can also modify the standard blades by cutting off the teeth (or grind them off) then take a file and put what bevel you like on the blade even a mild curve to help guide it into the gap. Leave the other side of the blade squared off to get it even into the corner.

Good luck with your work around, been there!

Click to expand...

I appreciate the extremely detailed response!

Lucky for me I do own an oscillating multi tool. Use it for light drywall work.

tarponater said:

I would cut the joint open with a jigsaw from the outside (plunge cut technique). Then tape the cut from the outside with some good water proof tape. Then prop the cabinet up on that edge at a 45 degree angle and fill the cut with epoxy from inside the cabinet. Warm the epoxy with some hot water before mixing it to thin it out so it flows easily into the joint. This will only take a few minutes to do and the epoxy will set up in about 30 minutes. Like others said, a multi tool works too. I prefer the jigsaw because it has a thicker blade so the epoxy can flow better.

Click to expand...

This seems like a rather fool proof and easy method. Basically just make a new joint.