[Colin Dunn]

I'm looking to add 3D capability to my Mitsubishi 73737 TV (2009 model, "3D-ready" DLP RPTV), for watching 3D Blu-ray movies.


Right now, I'm trying to figure out what is the best option for adding 3D:


1) Get a 3DA-1 (about $90-$100) and two pair of Ultra-Clear DLP Link glasses ($60/pr); or

2) Get a 3DC-1000, which has the adapter/emitter/2-pair of glasses ($300). The glasses in this kit are NOT DLP-Link as they require an emitter to work.


Option #1 is less expensive. And with DLP-Link, I presume that I could use those glasses in the future on a DLP FPTV setup?


Is there a reason I should seriously consider a 3DC-1000 instead of the 3DA-1 / Ultra-Clear DLP-Link glasses combo?

 

[Justin-Dawson]

Depending on room conditions, screen brightness, etc. DLP Link might not work very well for you.


Quick test - Enable 3D mode on your TV and look at the screen with the naked eye. If you see a greenish hue - you'll probably be okay with DLP Link. If you can't really notice a green tint - you'll want to go with IR glasses.

 

[Augerhandle]

Specifically, look at a black section of the picture for the blue/green hue.

 

[Colin Dunn]

The Mitsubishi TV will be in a fairly dark room. I don't expect light control to be an issue.


Any way I can determine what is the correct solution before buying glasses and 3D adapters? So I get the right stuff the first time?


Any specific quality advantage of the IR emitter-controlled glasses vs. DLP Link?

 

[Justin-Dawson]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Dunn /forum/post/20824076


Any way I can determine what is the correct solution before buying glasses and 3D adapters? So I get the right stuff the first time?

Yes - by doing the test I mentioned...