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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just jumped into the 3D world and need some assistance from someone who has already went thru the pain and suffering to accomplish what I'm try to do.


I have an 82838 and there is comsiderable color and brightness losss during 3D veiwing. What are the best settings to try and regain some of the lose from the 3D glasses.


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress
I just jumped into the 3D world and need some assistance from someone who has already went thru the pain and suffering to accomplish what I'm try to do.


I have an 82838 and there is comsiderable color and brightness losss during 3D veiwing. What are the best settings to try and regain some of the lose from the 3D glasses.


Thanks!
Turn on bright mode and deep field imager. That's what I do.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress /forum/post/19637264


I just jumped into the 3D world and need some assistance from someone who has already went thru the pain and suffering to accomplish what I'm try to do.


I have an 82838 and there is comsiderable color and brightness losss during 3D veiwing. What are the best settings to try and regain some of the lose from the 3D glasses.


Thanks!

What kind of glasses are you using? It makes a difference.
 

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I have the same problem. WD-73833 with the glasses from the kit/Samsung glasses.


I notice the screen image dims significantly when I turn on 3D mode (FX gaming) in the menu, so it's not just the glasses.


There is a HUGE gap between the image I'm getting on this compared to my Samsung LED and Samsung Plasma. Would love ideas on improving the image brightness/color.
 

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Something is not right somewhere. I have a 738 using DLP link and I have no perceptable color/brightness loss at all...which led me to question your glasses. Is your 3D feed going through some type of AV receiver? Are your glasses set to "reverse"?, Is the 838 set to "automatic"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes my feed is going thru a Yamaha RX1000. This is a 3d pass through. But for sake of testing I by passed it and went straight to the TV from the Blu-ray. Still has considerable loss without the glasses activated and even more with them activated. I have 4 pair of glasses and all 4 pair behave the same. The TV is not set to auto, I turn it on as needed.


I appreciate any feedback that might be helpful but I'm a bit confused that you asked what brand of glasses I have then immediately advise me that I may have something is not right somewhere. I not sure its a valid comparsion considering you have a different brand of glasses. You said yourself it makes a difference. I have seen several articles online that state the same drawback that I am seeing.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress /forum/post/0


Yes my feed is going thru a Yamaha RX1000. This is a 3d pass through. But for sake of testing I by passed it and went straight to the TV from the Blu-ray. Still has considerable loss without the glasses activated and even more with them activated. I have 4 pair of glasses and all 4 pair behave the same. The TV is not set to auto, I turn it on as needed.


I appreciate any feedback that might be helpful but I'm a bit confused that you asked what brand of glasses I have then immediately advise me that I may have something is not right somewhere. I not sure its a valid comparsion considering you have a different brand of glasses. You said yourself it makes a difference. I have seen several articles online that state the same drawback that I am seeing.

I was questioning your glasses because initially I didn't know what you were using. If you told me you were using DLP link and XpanDs, I would have told you that they put an unnatural hue on dark colors. After I found out you were using IR emitters, I was surprised that IR emitters would be that bad on your new TV....hence my position that something has to be wrong somewhere. I have not read anything in the 738/838 owners thread that states this problem with IR emitters. In fact there have been claims that IR is the way to go with 2010 models. Are you running the latest firmware update (12.06) and are you using an adapter?...because you don't need an adapter with this firmware on your TV. If all that checks out it has to be your glasses, or IR emitters are just not the way to go on new Mitsu's and you should switch to DLP link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for clarifing. I have the 12.6 firmware and I'm not using an adapter. As you probably already know the glasses are somewhat polarized to begin with so there is a loss before I even activate them. Spoodily mentioned he use the bright mode and deep field imager. The bright mode does help but washes the colors a bit. I don't see any difference with deep field imager. I found a good article on how they adjust a projector to compensate for polarixed glasses so I figured there must be something available to do the same with a TV. I have done spent too much money to switch to dlp. The 738/838 thread has a lot of info but its way to long to read thru it all to see if my search missed something.


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After doing some further research, it seems the issue may be caused by the DLP-link light (or something like that). For 2010 Mits owners, you can simply turn it off. For pre-2010, you apparently need to use DLP glasses instead of IR.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by deArgila /forum/post/0


After doing some further research, it seems the issue may be caused by the DLP-link light (or something like that). For 2010 Mits owners, you can simply turn it off. For pre-2010, you apparently need to use DLP glasses instead of IR.

The choices are either IR emitter or DLP link. If he's using IR glasses he would have had to select IR emitter and therefore DLP link would have already been off.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress /forum/post/0


Thanks for clarifing. I have the 12.6 firmware and I'm not using an adapter. As you probably already know the glasses are somewhat polarized to begin with so there is a loss before I even activate them. Spoodily mentioned he use the bright mode and deep field imager. The bright mode does help but washes the colors a bit. I don't see any difference with deep field imager. I found a good article on how they adjust a projector to compensate for polarixed glasses so I figured there must be something available to do the same with a TV. I have done spent too much money to switch to dlp. The 738/838 thread has a lot of info but its way to long to read thru it all to see if my search missed something.


Thanks

Ok just got my free starter pack in today so I was able to test the IR emitter and Mitsu glasses. The picture is crystal clear and there is no degradation in brightness or color in any way. Colors and brightness look as they should (IR emitter plugged directly to TV, 3D set to automatic, glasses set to standard, and IR mode on).


So I am perplexed as to why your results are so bad... which leads me to your equipment not working properly or it's your glasses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How are you determining there is no degradation. A true comparison would be to have 2 TVs side by side. One with 3D and the other 2d. I have a 2D and 3d version of the same movie. I'll compare by watching the same 5 minutes of each movie a couple of times. Maybe it's just me.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress
How are you determining there is no degradation. A true comparison would be to have 2 TVs side by side. One with 3D and the other 2d. I have a 2D and 3d version of the same movie. I'll compare by watching the same 5 minutes of each movie a couple of times. Maybe it's just me.
Maybe I don't understand the issue you are trying to communicate.


Tell me how you are determining that you are experiencing considerable color and brightness loss watching 3D..then maybe I can try to replicate it. I tested three different movies this afternoon, and none of them looked dark or washed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The issue is almost like watching a 2D movie with sunglasses on. I'm watch the new Christmas Carol with Jim Carey. The movie is already dark so the problem is almost difficult to watch.


Even though it is completely different technology here is an article that sparked my curiosity.
http://www.cepro.com/article/how_to_...or_3d_viewing/



Additionally, I have been watching normal TV and gaming on the brillant preset. Maybe the TV on compensates from one of the other presets. I'll experiment this weekend.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxxpress /forum/post/0


The issue is almost like watching a 2D movie with sunglasses on. I'm watch the new Christmas Carol with Jim Carey. The movie is already dark so the problem is almost difficult to watch.


Even though it is completely different technology here is an article that sparked my curiosity.
http://www.cepro.com/article/how_to_...or_3d_viewing/


Additionally, I have been watching normal TV and gaming on the brillant preset. Maybe the TV on compensates from one of the other presets. I'll experiment this weekend.

The TV will operate on the preset set for the input device. So your BDP would need to be on "brilliant" as well. Sounds like you may already done this from previous posts, so I'm still perplexed. I definitely don't feel like I am watching with sunglasses on, and I have the same movie.


On the other hand, Presets watching broadcast TV are a lot more sensitive than the same settings on any BD. ie. leave the color set to 31 on brilliant and see how over saturated and fake the colors are on broadcast TV. Then put a 2D BD in. You will note that the color isn't nearly as nasty and over saturated in comparison. My assumption is this is due to the quality of the content, and what you are supposed to be seeing with those settings via 1080p BD. ...but then again you seem to imply that it is not an issue for 2D, and it is only 3D. If that is the case then presets shouldn't be the issue.


What are your sub settings under "brilliant"? ie. Color, contrast, brightness, etc.
 
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