Well it seems like I'm the only one with this projector so I'm going to start an owner's thread. So far I love the projector. I did have some setup issues, where I had to turn off overscan in the ATI catalyst control center on my HTPC, change the HDMI setting to enhanced on the projector, and there is some plastic that came with the projector and I have no idea what it is for, but I love it! I upgraded from an HD1000U because of the whining color wheel. This projector is practically silent in econ mode and with my 95" screen that is plenty bright! I'm a big fan of frame interpolation so I have that turned on as well and it's very good on this projector. I haven't tried 3D yet, not sure if I will. Anyway, that's a start to this thread!
Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread
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Thanks for starting this thread. I am coming from HC3000 that I bought when it came out (almost eight years ago). I have narrowed down my choices to this one and the Sharp XV-Z30000. Although, Sharp will be dimmer than this one in my setup (133" diagonal and 19.7 feet throw). The prices are still too high for these projectors compared to what you get from BenQ 1070.
On a different note, I read somewhere that frame interpolation was not available in 3D for HC7900DW. What did you find?
On a different note, I read somewhere that frame interpolation was not available in 3D for HC7900DW. What did you find?
I did consider the BenQ 1070, but I read all sorts of complaints about exploding bulbs with the BenQ projectors. I'm guessing that projectors with a higher lumen output tend to explode more often. With all my searching, I was hard pressed to find any exploding bulbs with mitsubishi projectors (my own was at 5k hours or so). Also, I think the heavier/bigger projectors have a higher build quality. I don't want to deal with a noisy color wheel again, and I don't want to worry about internal parts failing because they were cheap. This time around, I wasn't looking for a projector that I'll replace after 5k hours. I want something that will last. After reading user reviews of the BenQ 1070, I wasn't confident I could go 5k hours without any issues.
I too considered the Sharp XV-Z30000, but I think I opted for the HC7900DW because of the lack of frame interpolation. I haven't tried 3d yet, and I'm not sure when I will. Projectorpeople quoted me $179 for a pair of glasses so I'm trying to find out if there is a generic set of glasses I can use.
I did consider the BenQ 1070, but I read all sorts of complaints about exploding bulbs with the BenQ projectors. I'm guessing that projectors with a higher lumen output tend to explode more often. With all my searching, I was hard pressed to find any exploding bulbs with mitsubishi projectors (my own was at 5k hours or so). Also, I think the heavier/bigger projectors have a higher build quality. I don't want to deal with a noisy color wheel again, and I don't want to worry about internal parts failing because they were cheap. This time around, I wasn't looking for a projector that I'll replace after 5k hours. I want something that will last. After reading user reviews of the BenQ 1070, I wasn't confident I could go 5k hours without any issues.
I too considered the Sharp XV-Z30000, but I think I opted for the HC7900DW because of the lack of frame interpolation. I haven't tried 3d yet, and I'm not sure when I will. Projectorpeople quoted me $179 for a pair of glasses so I'm trying to find out if there is a generic set of glasses I can use.
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I am still using my HC3000 but toying with they idea of replacing it. The sharp is tempting with the power focus/ zoom 2.00:1 with memory, however after my stellar experience with Mitsubishi, I don't think I would take a chance on a Sharp since I have read the company is not doing to well. Wondering if the HC8000 will ever drop in price.. would be what I would really prefer if I was to upgrade.. Will be interested to hear how much better whichever you buy is compared to the HC3000.
I am still using my HC3000 but toying with they idea of replacing it. The sharp is tempting with the power focus/ zoom 2.00:1 with memory, however after my stellar experience with Mitsubishi, I don't think I would take a chance on a Sharp since I have read the company is not doing to well. Wondering if the HC8000 will ever drop in price.. would be what I would really prefer if I was to upgrade.. Will be interested to hear how much better whichever you buy is compared to the HC3000.
My HC3000 is still going strong. However, I can't ignore anymore the Full HD and 3D capabilities that the newer models provide. I am not planning to buy HC8000D since I need more lumen for my large screen and 3D viewing.
Art's review says, "But the Sharp is loaded with features. It has CFI and a dynamic iris, blacks should match the Acer, but with a slightly smoother iris action." What does he mean by that?
Art's review says, "But the Sharp is loaded with features. It has CFI and a dynamic iris, blacks should match the Acer, but with a slightly smoother iris action." What does he mean by that?
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They dynamic irs reduces the light output depending on the source signal, so dark scenes get darker because it closes and then opens when it switches to a bright scene. How well it works can make your contrast much better and your blacks blacker, but if it is not smooth and well engineered, it will be visible and annoying (sometimes describes as the pumping). The smother it works would mean it is less noticeable when altering the light output.
They dynamic irs reduces the light output depending on the source signal, so dark scenes get darker because it closes and then opens when it switches to a bright scene. How well it works can make your contrast much better and your blacks blacker, but if it is not smooth and well engineered, it will be visible and annoying (sometimes describes as the pumping). The smother it works would mean it is less noticeable when altering the light output.
Thank you very much for your explanation of 'dynamic iris'.
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Actually I was trying to respond to Paladyr1's comment regarding the choice of Mitsubishi's HC7900DW over Sharp's XV-Z30000. Paladyr1 earlier alleged that Sharp did not have CFI (creative frame interpolation). I was pointing out that Art's review at projectorreview site contradicted that.
Actually I was trying to respond to Paladyr1's comment regarding the choice of Mitsubishi's HC7900DW over Sharp's XV-Z30000. Paladyr1 earlier alleged that Sharp did not have CFI (creative frame interpolation). I was pointing out that Art's review at projectorreview site contradicted that.
Hello Paladyr1
I am thinking about buying this projector too. My mitsubishi HC3200(similar to the hc3800) has almost 2500 hours, and i love is picture, but i want now better blacks and 3D. I want to continue with another Mits. Because their products are high quality. I read a lot of reviews about the Mits. HC5, the Hc8000 and the Hc7900. I think this one must be the racional choice because its the brightest, less expensive, and his picture its about the same as the Hc8000. The HC5 must be a good choice too, but its big, less sharp, and has a worst 3D.
Your user review it will be very important because here in Portugal we dont have any stores, wich we could compare Projectors.
Could you compare the overall picture and black level with the mits Hc3800/Hc4000.
Thank you
I am thinking about buying this projector too. My mitsubishi HC3200(similar to the hc3800) has almost 2500 hours, and i love is picture, but i want now better blacks and 3D. I want to continue with another Mits. Because their products are high quality. I read a lot of reviews about the Mits. HC5, the Hc8000 and the Hc7900. I think this one must be the racional choice because its the brightest, less expensive, and his picture its about the same as the Hc8000. The HC5 must be a good choice too, but its big, less sharp, and has a worst 3D.
Your user review it will be very important because here in Portugal we dont have any stores, wich we could compare Projectors.
Could you compare the overall picture and black level with the mits Hc3800/Hc4000.
Thank you
Yea in the HC7900DW, he compares it to the sharp and says he doesn't miss the CFI in the sharp because he doesn't like CFI. He also refers to the HC8000 as an LCoS projector, which it isn't. Looking at the specs for the sharp it doesn't mention CFI anywhere I can see:
http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/HomeEntertainment/HomeTheaterProjectors/Models/XVZ30000.aspx?tech_specs=1
I'm attempting to download the manual now to see what it says for the Sharp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kosha /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread#post_23212385
Thank you very much for your explanation of 'dynamic iris'.![]()
Actually I was trying to respond to Paladyr1's comment regarding the choice of Mitsubishi's HC7900DW over Sharp's XV-Z30000. Paladyr1 earlier alleged that Sharp did not have CFI (creative frame interpolation). I was pointing out that Art's review at projectorreview site contradicted that.
Yea in the HC7900DW, he compares it to the sharp and says he doesn't miss the CFI in the sharp because he doesn't like CFI. He also refers to the HC8000 as an LCoS projector, which it isn't. Looking at the specs for the sharp it doesn't mention CFI anywhere I can see:
http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/HomeEntertainment/HomeTheaterProjectors/Models/XVZ30000.aspx?tech_specs=1
I'm attempting to download the manual now to see what it says for the Sharp.
All I have to compare it to is the HD1000U, I would have to see an HC4000 in person. I can tell you that I have never noticed the dynamic iris and the overall picture is vastly better than my HD1000U.
If 3D is a big deal for you, I have heard that this projector is too dim for 3D. I'm projecting on a 95" screen so it may be bright enough for my setup. I guess when you want to watch 3d you could zoom in the picture and raise the contrast or something.
All I have to compare it to is the HD1000U, I would have to see an HC4000 in person. I can tell you that I have never noticed the dynamic iris and the overall picture is vastly better than my HD1000U.
If 3D is a big deal for you, I have heard that this projector is too dim for 3D. I'm projecting on a 95" screen so it may be bright enough for my setup. I guess when you want to watch 3d you could zoom in the picture and raise the contrast or something.
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Since I am considering the HC7900, if there is anyone in the Philadelphia, South Jersey or Delaware area that has one of these and would like it calibrated, I would be happy to do it for free to get a look at the unit in person. I am not ready to buy any time soon so this offer will be out there till I get to see one!
It's common for the left side of a projector image to have a slight red tint and the right side to be more blue right? On a completely white image I can tell that the center looks perfectly white, left has a hint of red, and right looks maybe a little blue but pretty good still.
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Normal, no.. should be all white. If you have the contrast to high it can start to show color in the white (clipping) To rule this out, use a calibration disk such as the AVS 709 free disk you burn to DVD and play in a BR Player to properly set the brightness and Contrast to see if it clears it up. Please note, as the lamp ages, you may find you get completely different contrast settings then when it was new.. Case in point my HC3000 for many hours had a contrast of -2 it is now -10 with +3000 hours on the lamp to prevent color clipping and blue hue on the right side with content at 100% or greater. So recheck your settings with a disk and verify with the gray scale ramp.
Normal, no.. should be all white. If you have the contrast to high it can start to show color in the white (clipping) To rule this out, use a calibration disk such as the AVS 709 free disk you burn to DVD and play in a BR Player to properly set the brightness and Contrast to see if it clears it up. Please note, as the lamp ages, you may find you get completely different contrast settings then when it was new.. Case in point my HC3000 for many hours had a contrast of -2 it is now -10 with +3000 hours on the lamp to prevent color clipping and blue hue on the right side with content at 100% or greater. So recheck your settings with a disk and verify with the gray scale ramp.
Yea I've already calibrated my projector using Avia and a Spyder2Pro colorimeter. Contrast/Brightness both seemed fine at the default level (0). Contrast is very subjective though. I believe the guidelines on adjusting it say make it really low, then bump it up and stop when it looks white. I'll give taking contrast down a try, I'll also check to see if setting HDMI to enhanced has anything to do with it.
I won't mess with my projector until later tonight but from googling it appears to be normal for any DLP projector to have some color differences across the screen when viewing a completely white image:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/hardware-reviews/1153402-mitsubishi-hc3800-dlp-projector-review.html
I honestly can't see the difference at all staring at a paused image of a movie, so I'm willing to bet this is within normal color variation limits.
Yea I've already calibrated my projector using Avia and a Spyder2Pro colorimeter. Contrast/Brightness both seemed fine at the default level (0). Contrast is very subjective though. I believe the guidelines on adjusting it say make it really low, then bump it up and stop when it looks white. I'll give taking contrast down a try, I'll also check to see if setting HDMI to enhanced has anything to do with it.
I won't mess with my projector until later tonight but from googling it appears to be normal for any DLP projector to have some color differences across the screen when viewing a completely white image:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/hardware-reviews/1153402-mitsubishi-hc3800-dlp-projector-review.html
I honestly can't see the difference at all staring at a paused image of a movie, so I'm willing to bet this is within normal color variation limits.
I got this response from Sainsonic regarding the use of their 3D glasses:
Hello,
if your projector meets the flowing conditions, they can be perfect match:
1.Your projector have the function of playing 3D view;
2.Your projector’s frequency is 120Hz or 144Hz;
3.Your projector has the logo of DLP 3D ready.
PS: If your projector’s frequency is 144 Hz, the 3D viewing would be much better.
Regards
Wesley
Follow us on facebook for more!
http://www.facebook.com/SainSonic
Customer service working time: Sunday to Thursday 9:00pm-6:00am EST except public and statutory holidays.
I haven't looked at the specs of the HC7900DW yet to see if that all matches up.
Hello,
if your projector meets the flowing conditions, they can be perfect match:
1.Your projector have the function of playing 3D view;
2.Your projector’s frequency is 120Hz or 144Hz;
3.Your projector has the logo of DLP 3D ready.
PS: If your projector’s frequency is 144 Hz, the 3D viewing would be much better.
Regards
Wesley
Follow us on facebook for more!
http://www.facebook.com/SainSonic
Customer service working time: Sunday to Thursday 9:00pm-6:00am EST except public and statutory holidays.
I haven't looked at the specs of the HC7900DW yet to see if that all matches up.
To the person mentioning the benq bulbs exploding, i just wanted to mention that my HC3800 which i still LOVE had the bulb explode 2 weeks ago.. it can happen to any brand. I owned 2 mitsu's before my current hc6800.. after this one i wont buy another mitsu.. just my opinion of course
Newegg is having a great sale on the old HC7800D model with two glasses (about 1260). It's tempting.
Is your deal on HC7900DW comparable? Use PM.
Is your deal on HC7900DW comparable? Use PM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread#post_23221197
If looking for a great deal on the Mitsubishi HC7900DW PM me.![]()
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