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Discussion Starter #1
hey kids!

love this forum, lurker for sure, wanted to just give a shout out to all the DIYers who make this so simple!

anyway, last time was pretty long winded, so i'll attempt to keep er short...psyc!

Planning/design -------------- boring ****, skip away if easily bored, or just don't give a crap

Built out my HT last year, Fusion 8 LCRs, Volt 6 SUR duty, 128" spandex screen and sony 40es projector. At the time i had had some old jl w7s lying around from the car audio days. Build some boxes for them, but as Erich H was right, couldn’t hang. the w7s would bottom out on the low stuff not even at full volume

i don’t have a ton of room behind my screen, nor at the bottom. Without raising the screen i needed a solution to get some new subs. 18s were just not an option, 15s were for a long while the leader in my mind. as i read more and more about the magnum12s and the flex config, plus the cost of the woofers, it was a done deal: going to turn my front sound stage to full range

queue some additional considerations ------------------- still boring

box height: needed to be about max, 20" high before it was too close to the screen. wanted to use the precision ports just like the flex, but they added simply too much height to the build, so i went with slot ports

tuning: man would i love to hit 17. but i realized build to the majority, not the minority, so i went with a 24hz tune in a 2.5 enclosure to ensure it was not massive. also snagged up 4 infinity 1262s for nearfield, figured i'd let them take the low end :), soon my precious....soon

power: had a icepower 500ASP and a 500a hanger, snagged up one more 500a for power, should get me 250x3 @ 8ohms. needed to rebuild a new box to get it all to fit

signal control: have a 2310ci denon, no pre-outs, but multichannel in. hmm, ok. I only ever use my HTPC for the basement screen, handles all my gaming, tv, movie needs. also had been playing with EqualizerAPO (which has been critical to this entire system). cue the miniDSP UDAC8. EAPO - all channels are pushed to virtual channels for EQ, crossovers, time alignment, level matching, channel combination etc. 8 outputs: 1,2,3 are crossed at 250HP LR 24db and head to AVR. 4,5,6 crossed at 250LP LR 24db head to icePower. 7,8 have RR/RL and SR/SL summed and head to AVR as well. SUB gets added into each of the 4,5,6 channels. after far too many hours, i finally have it sounding right where i want it, outside the massive room mode from like 215-275 that plagues the MLP. currently playing with letting the F8 naturally roll off (set cross over to 10hz), and keep the 250LP for the MBMs, so far i'm liking it, and it actually adds some additional oomph to the 200-300 region


.....HA....NERD

Ok, well here are some pics i have of the build. again thanks for everyone whos commented on these forums, this is a culmination of your help! now i just need to find the time to get those infinitys behind the couch without my GF thinking i need to be institutionalized

skipped all the wood cutting, we did get a new router this time around rather than an old rotary tool we'd been using to cut the holes. used a homemade circle jig, here is the importance of making sure that it's locked tight



ended up throwing that face out (just a few staples holding it in)

back shot after having the ports built



fronts all done!





as you can see, we got a router, put it to good use to round out the port holes

backside of the faces before we mounted the drivers. honestly don't love the t-nut method that everyone uses. 3/4 face, 1/2 lost to recessed driver, 1/2 MDF behind for a full inch to bite into. glued, predrilled, stapled down

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Finishing + Amp getting started

about as exciting as watching paint dry



went with the spray on truck bed liner by rustoleum. hate the cans, 1 in 3 suck, but love the final product. lots of light refraction so it's not shiny since it's a gritty finish. was important being directly under the screen



amp work station between coats of paint



all done



added a 3.5mm trigger on the amp, only to find out the stupid ASP module works exactly OPPOSITE than one would think. 12v signal SHUTS OFF the amp, stupid....for now the amp just stays on, but looking into a different method to trigger with the amp or HTPC



one....



all 3

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Grills and final thoughts

my father was looking for something to do, and was traveling a lot for work, so he went on and built out the grills



frames



fitted. used the parts express plastic grill system tab thingy. getting the holes to line up was fun, but big mole had a ?screw tap? essentially you screwed it into the grill frame, the other end was pointy, held it up to the face of the woofer and hammered for a mark, drilled it out, lined it up.



another shot

 

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Nice work - Check out the COTO 12V switch in my amp build thread as an option for your remote turn on
 

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Speaker looks great. I have been thinking of building my own amp for awhile. Hopefully easy with step by step for dummies. Can you either reply here or PM more details of your amp build? I would be really happy with a true 250 or even 500wpc for my L,C,R. I have seen some DIY that cost as much as Parasound, Emotiva, etc. I was hoping to keep the cost down a bit. Was yours a kit or piece by piece purchase? Any good books or tutorials, ie for dummies. lol I'm probably over thinking and making it more difficult in my head than it really is. I did the same thing with subwoofers and speakers.
Anyways.... Enjoy your subs and amp
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@tuxedocivic - thanks! the router helped a lot this time. a must have

@FriscoDTM - yes! will do, really would like to get that trigger actually working

@rlhaudio - there is no 'dummy' guide to DIY amp building. lots of reading, looking at additional build threads. the guys are diyaudio are much more amp-centric but i have to admit really hard to get to their level as a lot of them seem to be electrical engineers. i almost cheated a bit by going with the ice ASPs as they are pretty simple, not to mention ghent audio has the cable kits which streamlined v2 (i had to manually solder the connectors last time which was a time suck). but the basics are this: you'll need an amplifier, power supply, and depending on the unit an input stage (ignore for now). the 500 ASP is a 500a amplifier merged with an SMPS (power supply). for that unit, i need to supply AC power, input signal (balanced or unbalanced) and output connectors. done and done. the 500a amplifier hangers are powered off the ASP dc-bus, so i just connect the other two amps to the power supply. add a case (mouser), connectors for speakers (parts express), and rca inputs (strong recommend they are front locked, also from mouser), iec connector (ghent audio on ebay) and you are on your way. some of the easy kits that can be used are the icePower modules, hypex (amps and ps are separate), connexelectronic, classDaudio, sure, hifimediy. here is a good ranking one of the forum members over at diy did of those: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/291403-what-d-amp-give-best-sound.html (not sure if i'm allowed to link that site?). as always, be careful, lots of these amps have enough capacitance to cause death, make sure things are grounded and read up before you get started. for the most part its as simple as inputs to outputs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice work - Check out the COTO 12V switch in my amp build thread as an option for your remote turn on
so, i'm not sure i follow. when i turn the avr on, i get a 12v output. when i put a 12v output to the trigger on the amps, they shut off

where do i get the 12v signal if the avr is off if i need 12v to turn the darn thing off. or do you use the trigger to switch the main AC feed?
 

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so, i'm not sure i follow. when i turn the avr on, i get a 12v output. when i put a 12v output to the trigger on the amps, they shut off

where do i get the 12v signal if the avr is off if i need 12v to turn the darn thing off. or do you use the trigger to switch the main AC feed?


Can you link the manual for the board you are using? On the ASX boards that I used, there is an enable pin sitting at 5V, and if you pull it to ground the amp goes to standby. The COTO relay I used takes 12V to switch and he both NO and NC closed contacts. THe 5V pin is connected to the NC contact and the other side of the switch is connected to ground. So in the absence of 12V from the AVR, the switch is closed and the 5V pin is pulled to ground disabling the amp. When 12V is applied from the AVR, the switch opens and the 5V pins float and the amps are enabled. I have all 11 channels enabled from the same relay. Perhaps it won't work for your boards but it's hard to say without seeing the manual.

Alternatively you could probably use a solid state relay to switch the mains AC, but it's probably double the price and a bit bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can you link the manual for the board you are using? On the ASX boards that I used, there is an enable pin sitting at 5V, and if you pull it to ground the amp goes to standby. The COTO relay I used takes 12V to switch and he both NO and NC closed contacts. THe 5V pin is connected to the NC contact and the other side of the switch is connected to ground. So in the absence of 12V from the AVR, the switch is closed and the 5V pin is pulled to ground disabling the amp. When 12V is applied from the AVR, the switch opens and the 5V pins float and the amps are enabled. I have all 11 channels enabled from the same relay. Perhaps it won't work for your boards but it's hard to say without seeing the manual.

Alternatively you could probably use a solid state relay to switch the mains AC, but it's probably double the price and a bit bigger.
This is what is in the manual

http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/files/solutions/icepowera&asp_2011.pdf

 

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Hi!

Very nice looking MBM's! :nerd:



How do you like them now after having them for a while? Do they perform well?



I just bought 4 magnum12 drivers and plan to build boxes for them and think the size you built would fit perfectly in my smallish room!

Do you have a cutsheet or the measurements of the box and the length of the slot port?



I'm not confident enough to model a slot port in WinIsd and the Prescision ports would be a lot of money to buy, 8pc is like 160-180$ since I live in Sweden... :(



Are you using any other subs along with these or do they work as subs/mbm's at the same time?

My setup is actually identical to yours, Fusion8 as LCR and Volt6 as surround and future atmos. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi!

Very nice looking MBM's! :nerd:



How do you like them now after having them for a while? Do they perform well?



I just bought 4 magnum12 drivers and plan to build boxes for them and think the size you built would fit perfectly in my smallish room!

Do you have a cutsheet or the measurements of the box and the length of the slot port?



I'm not confident enough to model a slot port in WinIsd and the Prescision ports would be a lot of money to buy, 8pc is like 160-180$ since I live in Sweden... :(



Are you using any other subs along with these or do they work as subs/mbm's at the same time?

My setup is actually identical to yours, Fusion8 as LCR and Volt6 as surround and future atmos. :)
hey, sorry i never saw this!

Yes, loving them, they sound great! there hasn't been anything that i've thrown at it that it can't handle with flying colors. i've never heard clean bass, so this is a new world for me. muddy is the best way i can describe every other setup ive ever had

This what i used for the box

external walls using 3/4" MDF
external dim: d=19.5, h=19, w=16.5, which gives an internal 2.53 cuft

slot port walls using 1/2" MDF
slot port: l=15.5, w=5.5, h=1.75, once subtracted from the box left 2.46 cuft internal volume with a 24hz tune

currently these are handling LCR crossed over at 200hz. Also added in to each channel is adding in -4dB of the LFE channel. I currently have no dedicated subs for the LFE channel. i have 4 1262w's that i plan on building for a nearfield behind the couch to add to the mix. Again the goal will be to run all channels in full range, then spread the LFE to all active subs in the chain
 

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hey, sorry i never saw this!

Yes, loving them, they sound great! there hasn't been anything that i've thrown at it that it can't handle with flying colors. i've never heard clean bass, so this is a new world for me. muddy is the best way i can describe every other setup ive ever had

This what i used for the box

external walls using 3/4" MDF
external dim: d=19.5, h=19, w=16.5, which gives an internal 2.53 cuft

slot port walls using 1/2" MDF
slot port: l=15.5, w=5.5, h=1.75, once subtracted from the box left 2.46 cuft internal volume with a 24hz tune

currently these are handling LCR crossed over at 200hz. Also added in to each channel is adding in -4dB of the LFE channel. I currently have no dedicated subs for the LFE channel. i have 4 1262w's that i plan on building for a nearfield behind the couch to add to the mix. Again the goal will be to run all channels in full range, then spread the LFE to all active subs in the chain
You tuned down to 24Hz? What did you set your HighPass to?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You tuned down to 24Hz? What did you set your HighPass to?

I believe modeled it said to HP at 18hz to keep the cone in check, i believe i set to 20hz to be safe
 

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I am interested in hearing more about your PC setup and how you have it connected and integrated with your Denon AVR 2310. Do you just connect the sound card on the PC to one of the Denon’s HDMI inputs? What software do you use to control your setup on the PC, do you run JRiver? Can you describe the connectivity and the softwares that you use for your PC in some added detail?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am interested in hearing more about your PC setup and how you have it connected and integrated with your Denon AVR 2310. Do you just connect the sound card on the PC to one of the Denon’s HDMI inputs? What software do you use to control your setup on the PC, do you run JRiver? Can you describe the connectivity and the softwares that you use for your PC in some added detail?

Sure


USB --> miniDSP U-DAC8 --> preouts to AVR multi-in for LCR and SURR, preouts for LFE go to the icePower modules for the MBMs


All of this is controlled at the software level using EqualizerAPO. In here i have all of my channel separation (pull
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was going off what Erich said on the site vs what the T/S parameters are.

Ah yes, that is likely the -3 point, where the driver naturally rolls off. using a port tune is how we then extend the bottom end of the drivers response. tuning down to 24 isn't 'ideal' for this driver, it will have slight dip from 35hz down to the port tune, some people have tuned this driver down to 17hz with positive results. check out the MBM Flex builds on this forum.
 
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