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Mounting drop screen in front of LCD suggestions

1192 Views 11 Replies 2 Participants Last post by Jason Turk, Jul 20, 2009

kcdude24

Discussion Starter · Jul 15, 2009

I am considering a combo PJ/LCD setup and have a few questions. I am considering a Da-Lite Contour Electrol CV 110" or 120" 1.78:1. I plan on building out a sofit to hide the case and have about 18" from the back wall and can build it down 10" or so. My problem is that the LCD+mount for my 52XBR4 sticks out about 7.5". See pics attached.

In the left pic, there is not enough depth from the front of the sofit to the back wall since the screen drops from the back of the case. I also assume I need a specific amount of access in front of the screen and I am already maxed at 18".

In the right pic, if the case is mounted on the front of the sofit then it seems there is room. Can the screen be reversed in the case? How far should the sofit be from the back wall to clear the LCD? any other suggestions building the sofit?

Also, is the cinema vision screen thick/dense enough where the shiny metal bezel on my LCD won't show through when I have the PJ on?

Lastly, How do I calculate the drop? I have 108" ceiling, 24" from ground, Case is about 6", 110"/120" is 54"/58"H respectively....does the drop include the case height or a specific amount in the case or is the amount under the case to the viewing area?

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Jason Turk

· #2 · Jul 15, 2009

You need what is called "reverse roll". That is where they literally take the case and flip it so the mounting side is facing front and the electrical connections are now opposite. Then the roll the fabric "backwords" so the viewable side is facing properly. The main thing to note is that when the fabric is rolled that way, it is exposed inside the case, which means it is potentially more susceptible to marks, damage, etc...

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kcdude24

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 15, 2009

Thanks Jason.

How about the drop? I'm thinking 24".

How about the screen transparency? Will my LCD show through?

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Jason Turk

· #4 · Jul 15, 2009

Drop all depends on where you mount the screen. Normally if the duct wasn't there, pushing it as high as possible would be ideal. Then added drop can get the VA down where it is more comfortable.

An AT will shine the reflections from the TV through, unless you get one with a black backdrop to help that issue. So that is all in choice of screen.

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kcdude24

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 15, 2009

So the cinema vision screen should be OK right?

When I order the screen and you ask for x amount of drop, then that dimension should be from the bottom of the case to the VA right? Or do I specify the amount desired plus a few inches?

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Jason Turk

· #6 · Jul 16, 2009

Well the Cinema Vision is a not AT screen...did I misunderstand something? In any event, if you go non-AT the CV will work fine.

Call me when you are ready to order and we can figure out the proper drop you will need (I'll have to ask you some questions to determine it).

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kcdude24

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 17, 2009

Nope...no AT just CV...sounds like I am good here.

I am also trying to look at how to finish the electrical connection to the unit. I looked at the connections and plan on a j-box near the unit either on the ceiling or wall with the wires from the wall switch. How do I run this to the j-box in the case? Is there some type of finish plate for the wall box with conduit I can run to the case?

Are there any other electric screen manufacturers that require only a 110 V power supply and then have RF/IR controls built in the unit?

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Jason Turk

· #8 · Jul 17, 2009

It all depends on what controls you want...what are you planning (ie. IR remote, 12v trigger, etc...)?

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kcdude24

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 17, 2009

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/16840363

It all depends on what controls you want...what are you planning (ie. IR remote, 12v trigger, etc...)?

Considering just the standard switch day one....live with it for a bit. If needed, I'll add the 12V trigger. How would each differ in the install to the case?

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Jason Turk

· #10 · Jul 17, 2009

Well the standard switch works as this:

1. 110v lead into a box where the switch is to be located (wall location where you want it). From there a 14/3 wire (which note has 4 wires...red, black, white and ground) runs to the left side of the screen case (for normal use). Basically, white ties to white...neutral, ground to ground, black to black (lower hot) and red to red (raise hot). If you desire an add on later, you basically just bypass the wall switch and splice the 2 wires together (white, black and ground).

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kcdude24

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 17, 2009

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/16842672

Well the standard switch works as this:

1. 110v lead into a box where the switch is to be located (wall location where you want it). From there a 14/3 wire (which note has 4 wires...red, black, white and ground) runs to the left side of the screen case (for normal use). Basically, white ties to white...neutral, ground to ground, black to black (lower hot) and red to red (raise hot). If you desire an add on later, you basically just bypass the wall switch and splice the 2 wires together (white, black and ground).

So assuming I do a sofit build-in area to recess the case, do most installs just run the 14/3 wire right through the drywall to the case? through conduit that passes from the unfinished side of the wall to the case? Or do they run it to a j-box with some kind of finish plate and then a wire to the case?

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Jason Turk

· #12 · Jul 20, 2009

You really can do it either way. But, there may be some code requirements in your area. To be safe, I would probably run it into a box and leave enough to come out into a case. At least that way for inspection it is correct.

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