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First off I'm not sure what forum to post this into so being as it's a DIY idea I'm going to post it into the DIY screen forum even though its not a screen but people who make screens make other things. Then I'm also going to post it into the under $3000 projector forum even though its not a projector I read a lot of people looking for ways of ceiling mounting a projector over there. Hope that's ok with the mods and if not please merge the threads in the best location.
Over the years reading tips and tricks on locating and mounting a projector into an existing ceiling there have been several recurring issues people have. The first being how do I exactly locate the projector and mount. The second thing that comes up a lot is can I secure the mount just to the drywall ceiling and then the debate goes into all types of anchors and or opening up the ceiling and adding bracing etc. I hope I have come up with something that will help in both cases and I'm sure it's been done before but I haven't seen any posts suggesting this method so I thought I would start a thread or two.
There are numerous types of mounts both DIY and commercial and most cover the adjustment up and down somehow. The cover tilt and level and most allow some swivel. What I found with my first attempt at DIY was that I covered those bases pretty well and with my projectors lens being off center I did a lot of figuring and stretching strings ets and figured out what I had to do to get the lens on center. Then when or if I was off a little I would give it a smidgen of swivel and said good enough. I always had a bit of bow to the bottom (very slight) and was never really 100% sure everything was good as it could or should be.
Below is a picture of my first mount.
I came into the possession of a Chief mount a while back a friend gave me that he no longer needed and I was looking at it and liked the fine adjustment it had for tilt in both direction and swivel and height was taken care of thru adding a drop tube or spacers between the two halves. It just happened in my case with my low ceilings the drop height was perfect without a spacer. But I still had the issue of where to mount it and what if there wasn't anything solid there to go into.
So I made a simple prototype tee slot slide from some scraps of plywood I had. Keep in mind this could be done a lot more eye pleasing from hard woods or metal and could be all rounded over and finished. This is just concept here and fine for my man cave basement room.
I fit the tee slot to the chief mounts flange and added 4 rubber .25 thick furniture leg pads to the mount to make it a nice snug sliding fit inside the tee slot. It wouldn't be necessary to use this chief mount in doing this even a sliding piece of wood in a tee slot could then be bolted to any type mount.
The point of the post is now I have adjustment right and left with my projector and the length of this slotted thing I made is long enough to span two ceiling joists. It can now be attached with long drywall screws that will go thru the drywall and into solid joists. For people living in apartments all that would have to be repaired when taking it down would be 4 tiny screw holes into the ceiling. Spackling would make them disappear.
Below is a picture of the new prototype setup.
I think my explanation is fairly clear but if not ask any questions and I'll try and make it clearer.
As a side note that slight bow in my image went away after a 10 minute adjustment of the projector. The image is a perfect fit to the screen now with no slivers all 4 sides.
Over the years reading tips and tricks on locating and mounting a projector into an existing ceiling there have been several recurring issues people have. The first being how do I exactly locate the projector and mount. The second thing that comes up a lot is can I secure the mount just to the drywall ceiling and then the debate goes into all types of anchors and or opening up the ceiling and adding bracing etc. I hope I have come up with something that will help in both cases and I'm sure it's been done before but I haven't seen any posts suggesting this method so I thought I would start a thread or two.
There are numerous types of mounts both DIY and commercial and most cover the adjustment up and down somehow. The cover tilt and level and most allow some swivel. What I found with my first attempt at DIY was that I covered those bases pretty well and with my projectors lens being off center I did a lot of figuring and stretching strings ets and figured out what I had to do to get the lens on center. Then when or if I was off a little I would give it a smidgen of swivel and said good enough. I always had a bit of bow to the bottom (very slight) and was never really 100% sure everything was good as it could or should be.
Below is a picture of my first mount.

I came into the possession of a Chief mount a while back a friend gave me that he no longer needed and I was looking at it and liked the fine adjustment it had for tilt in both direction and swivel and height was taken care of thru adding a drop tube or spacers between the two halves. It just happened in my case with my low ceilings the drop height was perfect without a spacer. But I still had the issue of where to mount it and what if there wasn't anything solid there to go into.
So I made a simple prototype tee slot slide from some scraps of plywood I had. Keep in mind this could be done a lot more eye pleasing from hard woods or metal and could be all rounded over and finished. This is just concept here and fine for my man cave basement room.
I fit the tee slot to the chief mounts flange and added 4 rubber .25 thick furniture leg pads to the mount to make it a nice snug sliding fit inside the tee slot. It wouldn't be necessary to use this chief mount in doing this even a sliding piece of wood in a tee slot could then be bolted to any type mount.
The point of the post is now I have adjustment right and left with my projector and the length of this slotted thing I made is long enough to span two ceiling joists. It can now be attached with long drywall screws that will go thru the drywall and into solid joists. For people living in apartments all that would have to be repaired when taking it down would be 4 tiny screw holes into the ceiling. Spackling would make them disappear.
Below is a picture of the new prototype setup.

I think my explanation is fairly clear but if not ask any questions and I'll try and make it clearer.
As a side note that slight bow in my image went away after a 10 minute adjustment of the projector. The image is a perfect fit to the screen now with no slivers all 4 sides.