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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I'm not sure what forum to post this into so being as it's a DIY idea I'm going to post it into the DIY screen forum even though its not a screen but people who make screens make other things. Then I'm also going to post it into the under $3000 projector forum even though its not a projector I read a lot of people looking for ways of ceiling mounting a projector over there. Hope that's ok with the mods and if not please merge the threads in the best location.


Over the years reading tips and tricks on locating and mounting a projector into an existing ceiling there have been several recurring issues people have. The first being how do I exactly locate the projector and mount. The second thing that comes up a lot is can I secure the mount just to the drywall ceiling and then the debate goes into all types of anchors and or opening up the ceiling and adding bracing etc. I hope I have come up with something that will help in both cases and I'm sure it's been done before but I haven't seen any posts suggesting this method so I thought I would start a thread or two.


There are numerous types of mounts both DIY and commercial and most cover the adjustment up and down somehow. The cover tilt and level and most allow some swivel. What I found with my first attempt at DIY was that I covered those bases pretty well and with my projectors lens being off center I did a lot of figuring and stretching strings ets and figured out what I had to do to get the lens on center. Then when or if I was off a little I would give it a smidgen of swivel and said good enough. I always had a bit of bow to the bottom (very slight) and was never really 100% sure everything was good as it could or should be.


Below is a picture of my first mount.




I came into the possession of a Chief mount a while back a friend gave me that he no longer needed and I was looking at it and liked the fine adjustment it had for tilt in both direction and swivel and height was taken care of thru adding a drop tube or spacers between the two halves. It just happened in my case with my low ceilings the drop height was perfect without a spacer. But I still had the issue of where to mount it and what if there wasn't anything solid there to go into.


So I made a simple prototype tee slot slide from some scraps of plywood I had. Keep in mind this could be done a lot more eye pleasing from hard woods or metal and could be all rounded over and finished. This is just concept here and fine for my man cave basement room.


I fit the tee slot to the chief mounts flange and added 4 rubber .25 thick furniture leg pads to the mount to make it a nice snug sliding fit inside the tee slot. It wouldn't be necessary to use this chief mount in doing this even a sliding piece of wood in a tee slot could then be bolted to any type mount.


The point of the post is now I have adjustment right and left with my projector and the length of this slotted thing I made is long enough to span two ceiling joists. It can now be attached with long drywall screws that will go thru the drywall and into solid joists. For people living in apartments all that would have to be repaired when taking it down would be 4 tiny screw holes into the ceiling. Spackling would make them disappear.


Below is a picture of the new prototype setup.




I think my explanation is fairly clear but if not ask any questions and I'll try and make it clearer.


As a side note that slight bow in my image went away after a 10 minute adjustment of the projector. The image is a perfect fit to the screen now with no slivers all 4 sides.
 

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I really like the wooden mount route ! A really nice mount could me made using your design with some birch or oak either using a router or store bought trim pieces before staining & varnishing for a professional appearance!



BTW you may want to inform DIY folks that alot of projectors CANNOT be mounted this close to the rear wall which will impede air circulation and specifically FP`s that have rear air intakes.


The air circulation requirements by the manufacturers is the one thing alot of folks forget about when planning their mounting & throw distance.


Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverfox1 /forum/post/0


I really like the wooden mount route ! A really nice mount could me made using your design with some birch or oak either using a router or store bought trim pieces before staining & varnishing for a professional appearance!



BTW you may want to inform DIY folks that alot of projectors CANNOT be mounted this close to the rear wall which will impede air circulation and specifically FP`s that have rear air intakes.


The air circulation requirements by the manufacturers is the one thing alot of folks forget about when planning their mounting & throw distance.


Regards

Very true. I'm also very keen on keeping things cool and my projector has a row of fans down the side and is cross ventilated. That allows it closer proximity to a back wall. The other thing I tried not to show in the picture is the aux fan I now run. It wasn't in place in the photo of the old mount when that picture was taken. It is with the new mount and also in this picture taken of the other side of the old mount.




There is also a thread about the aux fan listed below in my signature or click below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=800306


And you are right my intent was not to make a show piece just something quickly to see if it would be a lot easier to align the projector this way.

I would most likely machine one out of aluminum and black oxide finish it. But DIY levels run across the board here. So of course what is shown is the basic idea and take the idea as fancy as one likes. Many with white ceilings may want to do something like this and round all the edges with a router and simply paint it white so it blends in. Many ways to go for sure.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 /forum/post/0


Very true. I'm also very keen on keeping things cool and my projector has a row of fans down the side and is cross ventilated. That allows it closer proximity to a back wall. The other thing I tried not to show in the picture is the aux fan I now run. It wasn't in place in the photo of the old mount when that picture was taken. It is with the new mount and also in this picture taken of the other side of the old mount.




There is also a thread about the aux fan listed below in my signature or click below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=800306


And you are right my intent was not to make a show piece just something quickly to see if it would be a lot easier to align the projector this way.

I would most likely machine one out of aluminum and black oxide finish it. But DIY levels run across the board here. So of course what is shown is the basic idea and take the idea as fancy as one likes. Many with white ceilings may want to do something like this and round all the edges with a router and simply paint it white so it blends in. Many ways to go for sure.

It would be nice if the projectors temp sensor would display the internal actual temperature on the display. All most of the FP manufacturers do is monitor the internal temp and trigger a warning led on the FP housing itself.


Have you ever simply used a portable digital temp sensing meter to monitor the top surface housing of the projector with the added external fan ON & OFF to make a comparison? I say the top housing since it might be a little risky sticking a thermocouple probe into the projector without possibly shorting out something.


I have done many mods on my PC in regards to the cpu & video card to lower the temps since cooler is always better but unfortunately we cant run our homes A/C too low due to the high electric bills !! I try to keep my ambient temp in the house at least around 75F and living in South Texas with all the humidity outside thats a chore.


Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This photo shows a temp probe. It's the white bulb at the end of the wire right in the exit air stream. You can also see the row of fans the 10X has on the side.




This photo shows the measurement end. Room temp and projector temp and humidity.

The thread I posted the link to has more information on temp drop etc.




Yesterday it was on for 8 hours and ran exit air temp of 112 F.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 /forum/post/0


This photo shows a temp probe. It's the white bulb at the end of the wire right in the exit air stream. You can also see the row of fans the 10X has on the side.




This photo shows the measurement end. Room temp and projector temp and humidity.

The thread I posted the link to has more information on temp drop etc.




Yesterday it was on for 8 hours and ran exit air temp of 112 F.

That is a very good idea ! Sorry I should have read the thread you linked first before inquiring about the actual temps.


One thing for sure is you wouldn`t be running that 69 degree ambient temp in your house if you lived here in Texas ! You couldn`t afford your light bill !!!



I have heard of folks running forced induction ambient air thru a filtered duct into the normal air intake side of the projector to accomplish what they claim is lower internal projector temps & additional dust free air complimenting the FP`s existing filter which are usually not to large on surface area. This would cut down also on frequent filter cleaning chores of at least the projector.


Where I used to work we had clean compressed filtered air and we would hook the 90 psig. air up to a vortec cooler and lower the air temp to 35 to 45 F. and adjust the cfm flow rate with a needle valve thru a rotameter measuring the air flow rate. Too bad I don`t have access to a header of 90psig clean filtered air or I would have the internal temp of the projector down to around 75F easy !



We used the little vortec mechanical cooler inside the electronic enclosures of Analytical equiptment in the field to lower the enclosure temp to prolong the life of the electronics. In the Oil industry you have to come up with ways to control ambient air temp in the field where air conditioning is not practical or cost prohibitive.

http://www.vortec.com/vortex_tubes.php


Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had almost forgot this thread until today someone else wanted to span two ceiling joists when doing an install.


There was also some discussion on how to do the rest of the install with minimal destruction to the walls and ceiling and something simple a DIYer or apartment dweller could do to make a clean job but only have a few pin holes to repair when moving. I didn’t do this so I have no photos to link but I did a search and found a few links on surface wire mounts.


Doing something like the slide mount I show above and the surface wire mounting could be done with a minimal of tools and experience in building.


http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/Raceway.asp

http://cableorganizer.com/cable-raceway/

http://www.wiremold.com/www/consumer...dex.asp?bhcp=1


(similar idea without the slide)

http://samoht.com/wiki/wiki.pl?Ceili..._The_Projector
 
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