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What mfr/model is the TV? That sounds mighty heavy for a new model 46. Often you can subtract about 10 pounds removing the stand. My 65" is only about 54 pounds without the stand.
 

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The recess is about 24 inches deep, will the mounts still be sturdy with them extended that far out? The TV weights about 45 pounds
you can try something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Cheetah-Artic...8535&sr=8-27&keywords=peerless+tv+wall+mounts

you will need to anchor into a stud. although this unit extends 20", odds are you will not be able to center in opening and hit a stud. So frame out from the rear wall to give yourself a centered anchoring point and in the mean time you can make up for the depth issue.
 

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The recess is about 24 inches deep, will the mounts still be sturdy with them extended that far out? The TV weights about 45 pounds
If you get a mount that is rated to support the weight of the TV, yes.

And you don't have to mount it to the back of the recess... ;)
 

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It is a Samsung 46 inch LN46C670, it says 48 lbs with the stand. Gotcha, so it is more like 38-40 pounds roughly then.
Maybe. Samsung should have the info available somewhere. Probably anywhere from 5-10 pounds lighter without the stand.
 

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My UN65F8000 is mounted similar to what you want to do. In my case I already had the furniture from my prior TV, a 65" Mitsubishi RPTV. CRT rear projections were very deep, but I wanted to use the same furniture but mount the F8000 near the front. I have about an inch on each side, an inch and a half on top, and about two inches or so below the TV. The main reason for the 2 inches above is to clear the pop-up camera on the TV. The black filler below the screen is just cloth covered plywood. Eventually I intend to make a nicer piece with some shelves, and move my 50 pound center channel down from the top of the cabinet.

View attachment 628697

View attachment 628705

View attachment 628713

Note: The mount picture shows the stand attached to the TV. The stand is not normally attached.
 
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^^^
Yes. The vertical 2x4's are attached to the cabinets with screws extending from the interior of the cabinets that screw into the 2x4's. The plywood is 3/4" (birch because I already had a piece that would work) and has 2x4's attached to the backside lengthwise where the TV mount attaches. I have space that I can roll out the cloth covered "filler" cabinet and almost stand completely up behind the TV to reach wiring from the Receiver, Blu-Ray, and TiVo, etc.
 
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Four screws on each side thru the cabinet sidewall into the vertical 2x4's. Three screws on each side attach the plywood to the vertical 2x4's. The horizontal 2x4's behind the plywood are not attached to the vertical 2x4's, but simply attach to the plywood (on the flat, with the 3.5" dimension against the plywood) with 3 or 4 screws, plus the large screws that came with the mount. My mount is a Peerless SUA765PU, about $240 from Amazon.
My biggest concern initially was stability of the entire cabinet when the TV was extended completely out on the bracket. But the furniture is quite heavy, and the center of gravity is fairly low (bracket mounted only about midway up) so it hasn't been an issue. If it would have proven to be an issue I would have had to strap/brace the back of the cabinets to the wall . . .
 

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I went from a 24" deep nook to a 5" deep nook by pulling out the back wall of the unit, re-framing, and then cutting down the side panels (I knew all that stuff was more or less modular because I originally built the unit myself). Then I used a similar articulating mount to the one WS65711 used, so I could push the TV back into the hole.

You'd have to frame anew, of course, and then fill in with something (plywood or drywall) since that's the actual wall at the back of your nook and it doesn't make any sense to chop it out.
 

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