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But doesn't include any sources... Add say two Sonos Connect units and you're at $2700. Six Connect:Amp units would be $3000 - and that assumes you need exactly 6. That also gets a single-app solution for the whole system. No in-room keypads, though - if Sonos would just do a modern, small touchscreen they'd have it all. Russound and NuVo both have keypads for their zone players (Russound has an expensive, but full-featured, touchscreen, NuVo has a simple on/off/volume/source selector available).

One of the big benefits of the zone player setups is the ability to buy exactly the number of zones you need, and there's no big "cliff" of expense when you want zone #7 , for example. It also allows you to buy a few zones at a time - the Connect:Amp (unlike some of the competitors) is 4-ohm stable, so you can easily share two rooms on one zone to get started - and add more units over time as budget or usage expands...
I realize that people like having everything on their phones, but I'd prefer in-room keypads (or touchscreens). This way, if you leave your phone downstairs, you can still listen to music while upstairs.

Wouldn't there still be a "cliff" of expenses when you go to add wired speakers in the house? Or are you thinking you'd add wireless?

I'm about to have a ton of wiring done on an already-finished home, before we fill the attic with insulation and no more wiring can be done (or it'll be very difficult to do so). The house also has an old wired intercom/radio system. So I was thinking of having the electricians drop network cable to where the intercom locations are now and speaker cable in the walls for speakers (with maybe the ability to add local volume controls), then run this to where my network currently is set up. I'd have to determine the number of speakers and zones now, but then I'd be able to buy whatever I'd need in the future. And I like the ability to fill the locations where we have wired intercoms with something else.

I'm still researching the issue, though.
 

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Wouldn't there still be a "cliff" of expenses when you go to add wired speakers in the house? Or are you thinking you'd add wireless?
Cabling is cheap. There is a cost when you "Build out" a zone, but what Jautor was saying is that Sonos allows you to build out a system zone by zone. Whereas many other system they are in blocks of "6". So if you have HTD, and you want a 7th zone, your cost to add that zone is at a "cliff" as you need to buy hardware to support 6 more zones, even if all you ever need are 7 zones.

When I built, I ran speaker wire and Cat5 wire everywhere (I mean everywhere). Every room, including the Garage, has speaker wire in the ceiling, cat5 to a "keypad location" and 2 Cat5 + RG6 on each side of each room. That cost was minimal considering other costs. All that was home ran to one location. (I really need to learn how to share pictures here).

Anyway, I went with Sonos. I started with 2 rooms. So I had to buy the speakers and Sonos boxes (Yes, I went with Connects as I already owned a 12 channel amp). So my start up costs were limited to get my feet wet. I am up to 6 zones today (Kitchen, Patio, Master Bedroom, Living Rm, Basement (4 speakers, 4 ohm stable), and Office). So even though my costs today are up there with other systems, I only added a zone at a time. I still have wiring locations for another 4 zones :) .

I will say my double blank wall plate in each room looks lonely, I need to find a use for it and the Cat5 behind it (Speaker wire passes by it too, just in case). Any other cool toys I can add to those spots? Lately thinking it would be a cool place to put a WIFI mesh network repeater.

PS, If I were to do it over again, each wall plate would get at least 3 Cat5 (if not 4) instead of 2. Heck I have local Hubs by my living room TV (Cable Box, DVD, Wii all need Cat5) and in the Office (2 computers + Cable box on one wall) :)
 

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I realize that people like having everything on their phones, but I'd prefer in-room keypads (or touchscreens). This way, if you leave your phone downstairs, you can still listen to music while upstairs.
Yep, having both is the best answer - and even if you start with a mobile-app-only system, having the wiring in place for keypads is a very low-cost method for future-proofing.

Wouldn't there still be a "cliff" of expenses when you go to add wired speakers in the house? Or are you thinking you'd add wireless?
Speakers are a linear expense. Adding a 10th pair costs the same as the first.

The "cliff" I'm referring to is for the traditional controller with a multi-channel amp (integrated or a separate piece). Most of these will support and power 6 zones. Buy the unit, install up to six zones. If you're only using five zones, you can add the 6th for free (just the cost of speakers, as always). But try to add a 7th zone, and you need another 6-zone unit. Even if all you wanted was one more zone, you're buying the gear for six. With the zone players, you buy each zone as you need it - the cost per zone is always the same. Some of those units do come in a 3-zone box, but that's just a cost-saving option if it works for you...

I'm about to have a ton of wiring done on an already-finished home, before we fill the attic with insulation and no more wiring can be done (or it'll be very difficult to do so). The house also has an old wired intercom/radio system. So I was thinking of having the electricians drop network cable to where the intercom locations are now and speaker cable in the walls for speakers (with maybe the ability to add local volume controls), then run this to where my network currently is set up. I'd have to determine the number of speakers and zones now, but then I'd be able to buy whatever I'd need in the future. And I like the ability to fill the locations where we have wired intercoms with something else.
Yep, you're on the right track. Although be careful about choosing in-wall locations instead of in-ceiling for WHA purposes. In-walls are generally not preferred for WHA because of placement and/or sound bleed to the other side of the wall. Different answer if the in-walls are intended for use with a TV and surround setup.

Run a ton of wire. It's never going to be this cheap again. Pre-wire for lots of audio zones, too. If anything, assume every room should have WHA speakers, then justify removing some of them... :D

Jeff
 

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... Also Sonos Connects (& amps) have a local line in too, taking in that old media too. :) The local line in then can be used by any other zone too. Show me that from another system.
How do the Sonos Line In sources present themselves in the Sonos app? If you have 6 co-located Connects, do you also have the ability to select from 6 unique line in sources? I'm assuming that would be the case, and that you could also name them to identify which one is which?

Thanks for your help everyone. I'm planning on a single Connect to start and have a 12 channel amp on the way. I plan to use my AV Receiver zone 2 out to feed the Sonos line-in for now (and can choose any source to output as I have a Denon X3200W that can process HDMI inputs to pass to zone 2). Ultimately as I add more Connects, however, I would like to separate the WHA system from relying on the AVR for input control so I would just run outputs from each source to a Connect as well as the AVR and be able to select them individually from the Sonos app. Hopefully that would be viable.
 

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How do the Sonos Line In sources present themselves in the Sonos app? If you have 6 co-located Connects, do you also have the ability to select from 6 unique line in sources? I'm assuming that would be the case, and that you could also name them to identify which one is which?
I am not sure. I know the Line In won't show up on the Connect if there is no source playing/outputting a signal there. Each Sonos will get a "Room" name, not sure if you know anymore besides "Room X - Line In".

This is obviously a drawback of co-locating, usually the local line in is a "room source" not a individual feed (Tape, CD, Cable, etc).

Keep us informed, I would like to know what options you get. I will have 1 source (media room) feed into Sonos for whole house play back for sports etc, but although the room is done, there is no technology in it yet (waiting on money reserves to exist again).
 

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I am not sure. I know the Line In won't show up on the Connect if there is no source playing/outputting a signal there. Each Sonos will get a "Room" name, not sure if you know anymore besides "Room X - Line In".

This is obviously a drawback of co-locating, usually the local line in is a "room source" not a individual feed (Tape, CD, Cable, etc).

Keep us informed, I would like to know what options you get. I will have 1 source (media room) feed into Sonos for whole house play back for sports etc, but although the room is done, there is no technology in it yet (waiting on money reserves to exist again).
OK, thanks. If it works as I described, it would be a great ADVANTAGE to co-locating. Maybe I'll start a new thread and get better feedback that way without derailing this one :).
 

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The other issue with I think all of these systems is controlling the source. So, if you're upstairs and the system is in the basement, along with a source, how do you select info on that source? I have two Squeeze boxes I could use for that, and these are accessed via the network. But then you need an app somewhere (iPad, phone) to control the Squeeze boxes. So I guess you still need an app.

Thanks for the clarification about the cliff. That makes sense. I'm still leaning toward the HTD system, though.

As for cabling being "cheap", the cable itself might be "cheap", but the installation is not. When I installed my own network in my previous house, it was a very time consuming endeavor (think YEARS), as I had to fish everything through pre-existing walls, and with kids, I have limited time. I'm planning on having an electrician install this system, and I assume just having them fish wires will cost thousands of dollars. And, we'll have to cut drywall somewhere, probably in two rooms, to fish cables from the attic, though the second floor, through the first floor, and into the basement, especially if there are 6 zones (each with 2 cables for speakers and 1 for network). So, that's an additional cost, as I'm not the best drywall finisher. And after installing my own system, I can see why it's expensive -- it's time consuming to determine where walls are, cut boxes in drywall, fish wires to the boxes, cut holes in joists to run many cables, etc. Plus you have to meet code when doing all of that (eg, fire blocking, size and location of holes through joists, etc.).
 

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The other issue with I think all of these systems is controlling the source. So, if you're upstairs and the system is in the basement, along with a source, how do you select info on that source? I have two Squeeze boxes I could use for that, and these are accessed via the network. But then you need an app somewhere (iPad, phone) to control the Squeeze boxes. So I guess you still need an app.
If you don't have system-integrated keypads (aka Russound, NuVo or an integrated automation system), source control is either through IR repeating, or most commonly today - the source's "app". Which is why the zone-player streamer devices work so well - they integrate source and controller, and provide a single app for all the above...

As for cabling being "cheap", the cable itself might be "cheap", but the installation is not. When I installed my own network in my previous house, it was a very time consuming endeavor (think YEARS), as I had to fish everything through pre-existing walls
Pre-wiring installation is cheap, which is why we urge folks to over-wire everywhere during new construction or "to the studs" gut remodels.

Retrofit is a completely different story - and I would tell folks to just deploy zone-players with freestanding speakers as the best place to start. No wiring needed. You can step up to in-wall / in-ceiling and only having to route wires within a single room, too. The zone player can sit anywhere out of sight and feed speakers...

Jeff
 

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The other issue with I think all of these systems is controlling the source. So, if you're upstairs and the system is in the basement, along with a source, how do you select info on that source? I have two Squeeze boxes I could use for that, and these are accessed via the network. But then you need an app somewhere (iPad, phone) to control the Squeeze boxes. So I guess you still need an app.

Thanks for the clarification about the cliff. That makes sense. I'm still leaning toward the HTD system, though.

As for cabling being "cheap", the cable itself might be "cheap", but the installation is not. When I installed my own network in my previous house, it was a very time consuming endeavor (think YEARS), as I had to fish everything through pre-existing walls, and with kids, I have limited time. I'm planning on having an electrician install this system, and I assume just having them fish wires will cost thousands of dollars. And, we'll have to cut drywall somewhere, probably in two rooms, to fish cables from the attic, though the second floor, through the first floor, and into the basement, especially if there are 6 zones (each with 2 cables for speakers and 1 for network). So, that's an additional cost, as I'm not the best drywall finisher. And after installing my own system, I can see why it's expensive -- it's time consuming to determine where walls are, cut boxes in drywall, fish wires to the boxes, cut holes in joists to run many cables, etc. Plus you have to meet code when doing all of that (eg, fire blocking, size and location of holes through joists, etc.).
I agree retrofit wiring is not simple, nor cheap, but it's also not "years" worth of work depending on what you're looking to do. I choose to do almost all work on my house myself, but having two small kids I interviewed three different AV companies and chose 1 to wire and install 9 ceiling speakers in my house. It took them 7 hours in a single day. I'm installing the volume controls and hooking everything up to my amps myself to save money. They also helped me sort out a couple other sets of audio pre-wires so that I could install those zones myself--just cut through the drywall and installed the first speaker pair last night in my office). Total cost including a boatload of wiring, which seems to be the thing they make their money off of compared to what I could get it for at Monoprice, was $1800. Cheap? No, but not too bad and best of all, it's done and we can enjoy it! Other quotes I had including all final installation/hookup with them pushing power conditions, $500 remotes, etc, was crazy expensive ($5k+).
 

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How do the Sonos Line In sources present themselves in the Sonos app? If you have 6 co-located Connects, do you also have the ability to select from 6 unique line in sources? I'm assuming that would be the case, and that you could also name them to identify which one is which?

Thanks for your help everyone. I'm planning on a single Connect to start and have a 12 channel amp on the way. I plan to use my AV Receiver zone 2 out to feed the Sonos line-in for now (and can choose any source to output as I have a Denon X3200W that can process HDMI inputs to pass to zone 2). Ultimately as I add more Connects, however, I would like to separate the WHA system from relying on the AVR for input control so I would just run outputs from each source to a Connect as well as the AVR and be able to select them individually from the Sonos app. Hopefully that would be viable.
Dre - I was thinking about using your exact same set up. Parts Express has a Dayton 12 channel (6 zone) amp for $500. Then I can pick up a Sonos Connect for $250 on eBay. All of my speakers are home run to a central location. I think the Sonos app is very user friendly. The one drawback is that I won't be able to control each zone by itself. It what the WHA systems such as HTD Lync or Nuvo Grand Concerto have over this solution. These high end solutions allow unique zone volume control, whether by a keypad or via the app.

So...did your amp come in? Any pictures of your set up. Tell me how its working and if you would do anything different. I'm close to a decision.
 

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Sonos all the way! It's the most intuitive, user friendly system you can go with, but you pay for it.

I designed and installed my whole AV setup in our new house. 2500' of speaker wire with 14 in ceiling speakers and 4 outdoor speakers.

Apple airplay is an alternative, but know its limits. Dropouts can be a problem, it also has an no ability to "link" zones in party mode.

My system -
In ceiling speakers 8" from htd.com $80/pair
2 Amps - 12 channel by 50w episode 70a -$350 off eBay
Sonos - 6 connects ~$250 off craigslist

Audio rack - free off craigslist
Power strips - ~$50 a piece at Zoro

So for ~$2500 I have a super simple to use system that my non tech savy wife figured out in less than a minute.

AirPlay is a viable, cheaper option, but it's not that much cheaper of your score on Craigslist. Also go in ceiling speakers, don't do the "play" units. You'll get better sound with the in ceiling and they won't be "visible".


KWOODY - so does each zone have a separate source and volume control on your smart phone?
 

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KWOODY - so does each zone have a separate source and volume control on your smart phone?
Yes, with any of the zone player setups (Sonos, Denon, NuVo, Russound, etc.) you choose which zone or group-of-zones you control, then adjust source/volume for that zone/group. All zones are independent, but most of these systems allow you to group them (temporarily) so that they're in sync and are easy to control for parties...
 

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Yes, each connect is its own source. Each connect can have the volume controlled independent of each other or all as a group.

So if I had all my zones grouped, sonos has a master volume that will move all zones up or down together. If I "click" on the master volume it will show each zone volume and I can move that up or down by itself, independent of the other zones.

There are no "tricks" with sonos it's setup is pretty much what you'd expect it to be.

Flat out it just works, you don't really think much about. It's a really well designed interface.
 

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Dre - I was thinking about using your exact same set up. Parts Express has a Dayton 12 channel (6 zone) amp for $500. Then I can pick up a Sonos Connect for $250 on eBay. All of my speakers are home run to a central location. I think the Sonos app is very user friendly. The one drawback is that I won't be able to control each zone by itself. It what the WHA systems such as HTD Lync or Nuvo Grand Concerto have over this solution. These high end solutions allow unique zone volume control, whether by a keypad or via the app.

So...did your amp come in? Any pictures of your set up. Tell me how its working and if you would do anything different. I'm close to a decision.
That Dayton amp was my second choice (the 60w per channel version). I ended up with the same amp as KWoody in this thread, an Episode EA-AMP-12D-70a. Got it used on eBay for less that $200. It's got a few cosmetic imperfections but the thing is a tank, yet small and powerful. It came highly recommended and I think it works great so far for my situation. Since I just have a single Connect, I have it hooked up to the Bus shared input and use it for the source for all zones. It turns on automatically when I start playing through the Sonos and shuts down 15 minutes after I pause the source. Just what I needed. Having this system independent of my AVR is amazing. We use it every day and I find myself listening to my music from my computer much more often. My only complaint about Sonos is there's no lock screen controls for i-devices so it makes it harder to use a little bit. Possibly this can be done with a third party app that is paid...

At this point, I wouldn't do anything different. I've installed 16 total ceiling speakers in my house now, 5 of which are in an independent bonus room with a separate AVR, 5 are in my main living room and powered by their own AVR, and I have a pair in my kitchen, dining room, and office powered by the Episode. My patio is also wired and I'm waiting for some nicer weather to install the speakers out there. Since those WHA zones are close to each other, we don't have a need for separate sources. I installed in-wall volume controls and so we typically choose to leave the primary kitchen zone VC turned up and use the Sonos app to turn up the volume, then can always tweak the volume with the VC. When I want music in the office or dining room, I just turn the VC knob, and same situation for the patio once the speakers are up. Very easy. I have the Sonos feeding an input on my living room AVR so can run the 5.1 with the WHA when I want to, and have zone 2 out feeding the Sonos line in so can get TV audio (or Blu Ray or Xbox or anything else to the WHA as well. Typically zone 2 is just set on TV though.

I have a pre wired master bedroom upstairs and have 5 more ceiling speakers sitting here, so I may hook 2 speakers up in there as well as 3 total in my master bath and closet next (will need a new home run and ceiling wires, but have an attic above and a smurf tube from attic to crawl space). I've spent a ton of time in my attic lately! That will be 6 zones total, and will probably drive me to another Connect for those sources since I could imagine we'll want different sources there, or I may do a Connect Amp to preserve my last Episode zone for my garage (I have some 8" in wall speakers that would be perfect for in there if I could figure out the wiring :)).

I think I'm addicted. Just got a Nevo C3 / ARRX18g RF remote for the gear in my media cabinet, and have a temp controlled vent fan in there to keep things cool!

Hope this helps. Sorry for the long post!
 

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My only complaint about Sonos is there's no lock screen controls for i-devices so it makes it harder to use a little bit.
That's an issue with all of the app-based systems - they're using a shared, general-purpose device (the phone/tablet) for control instead of a dedicated screen, so they have to fit into the model. Which means you lose a bit of usability compared to a dedicated controller.

But there is a workaround for iOS. Use the "Guided Access" under Accessibility to lock the unit into "Single App Mode", which prevents accidental exit or the lock screen. Unlocking Guided Access is done with a PIN - so just use a simple one so others can get out if they need to (to use the device for anything else).

I use that feature for iRule as I use an iOS device for my theater remote...

Jeff
 
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My only complaint about Sonos is there's no lock screen controls for i-devices so it makes it harder to use a little bit.
That's an issue with all of the app-based systems - they're using a shared, general-purpose device (the phone/tablet) for control instead of a dedicated screen, so they have to fit into the model. Which means you lose a bit of usability compared to a dedicated controller.

But there is a workaround for iOS. Use the "Guided Access" under Accessibility to lock the unit into "Single App Mode", which prevents accidental exit or the lock screen. Unlocking Guided Access is done with a PIN - so just use a simple one so others can get out if they need to (to use the device for anything else).

I use that feature for iRule as I use an iOS device for my theater remote...

Jeff
Interesting. I just tried that mode. I could see it coming in handy occasionally during a party or something. Our devices aren't dedicated to controlling the system (we're texting and using iPads for other things at the same time, and turning off screens to conserve battery during the day). I like the triple click to turn on that mode.

Any experience with 3rd party apps that have lock screen control? I know Android has this feature, but picking up a cheap Android device is just another thing to carry around the house and keep charged.
 

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Any experience with 3rd party apps that have lock screen control? I know Android has this feature, but picking up a cheap Android device is just another thing to carry around the house and keep charged.
No direct experience, but I've suggested that buying a bunch of "cheap Android devices" to leave one around in each room to act as a dedicated audio controller isn't a crazy idea at all. If you could find inexpensive wall mounts - it would be superior to most keypad-based systems today...
 
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That Dayton amp was my second choice (the 60w per channel version). I ended up with the same amp as KWoody in this thread, an Episode EA-AMP-12D-70a. Got it used on eBay for less that $200. It's got a few cosmetic imperfections but the thing is a tank, yet small and powerful. It came highly recommended and I think it works great so far for my situation. Since I just have a single Connect, I have it hooked up to the Bus shared input and use it for the source for all zones. It turns on automatically when I start playing through the Sonos and shuts down 15 minutes after I pause the source. Just what I needed. Having this system independent of my AVR is amazing. We use it every day and I find myself listening to my music from my computer much more often. My only complaint about Sonos is there's no lock screen controls for i-devices so it makes it harder to use a little bit. Possibly this can be done with a third party app that is paid...

At this point, I wouldn't do anything different. I've installed 16 total ceiling speakers in my house now, 5 of which are in an independent bonus room with a separate AVR, 5 are in my main living room and powered by their own AVR, and I have a pair in my kitchen, dining room, and office powered by the Episode. My patio is also wired and I'm waiting for some nicer weather to install the speakers out there. Since those WHA zones are close to each other, we don't have a need for separate sources. I installed in-wall volume controls and so we typically choose to leave the primary kitchen zone VC turned up and use the Sonos app to turn up the volume, then can always tweak the volume with the VC. When I want music in the office or dining room, I just turn the VC knob, and same situation for the patio once the speakers are up. Very easy. I have the Sonos feeding an input on my living room AVR so can run the 5.1 with the WHA when I want to, and have zone 2 out feeding the Sonos line in so can get TV audio (or Blu Ray or Xbox or anything else to the WHA as well. Typically zone 2 is just set on TV though.

I have a pre wired master bedroom upstairs and have 5 more ceiling speakers sitting here, so I may hook 2 speakers up in there as well as 3 total in my master bath and closet next (will need a new home run and ceiling wires, but have an attic above and a smurf tube from attic to crawl space). I've spent a ton of time in my attic lately! That will be 6 zones total, and will probably drive me to another Connect for those sources since I could imagine we'll want different sources there, or I may do a Connect Amp to preserve my last Episode zone for my garage (I have some 8" in wall speakers that would be perfect for in there if I could figure out the wiring :)).

I think I'm addicted. Just got a Nevo C3 / ARRX18g RF remote for the gear in my media cabinet, and have a temp controlled vent fan in there to keep things cool!

Hope this helps. Sorry for the long post!
Wow, I love the thermometer you built into the cabinet. (Its funny how the silliest things draw praise!!). So I think I mis understood your setup a little. It sounds like your speakers are wired to a local VC, and then the VC is run back to your media closet. This is how you can control the volume locally. Thanks for mentioning that. I'm stuck with all my speakers home run back to the media closet, so I won't have local individual volume control.

Thanks for your reply. It really helped me!! I'll be sure to post back once I purchase everything and get it set up. I don't mind buying used equipment, the savings are outstanding as long as you know what you need because there is a bunch of junk out there that isn't worth it. Looks like you did your homework and installed a great WHA. Nice work!!
 

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No direct experience, but I've suggested that buying a bunch of "cheap Android devices" to leave one around in each room to act as a dedicated audio controller isn't a crazy idea at all. If you could find inexpensive wall mounts - it would be superior to most keypad-based systems today...
Very true, I've seen that suggested before and would agree that if you had them distributed around the house that would be a solid option with a great interface compared to wall knobs or unlocking iPhones to control!
 

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Wow, I love the thermometer you built into the cabinet. (Its funny how the silliest things draw praise!!). So I think I mis understood your setup a little. It sounds like your speakers are wired to a local VC, and then the VC is run back to your media closet. This is how you can control the volume locally. Thanks for mentioning that. I'm stuck with all my speakers home run back to the media closet, so I won't have local individual volume control.

Thanks for your reply. It really helped me!! I'll be sure to post back once I purchase everything and get it set up. I don't mind buying used equipment, the savings are outstanding as long as you know what you need because there is a bunch of junk out there that isn't worth it. Looks like you did your homework and installed a great WHA. Nice work!!
Thanks, glad I'm able to help! Glad you like the integrated temp controls--I have it set to turn fans on at a pretty low temp so it basically turns on whenever my amps are on. It'd be a freaking oven in there otherwise! To answer your additional questions, yes, for the couple rooms that were prewired, I had a homerun cable (4 conductor) from that media cabinet to the VC locations, and then 2 conductor cables running up to the speakers. For the rooms I added, I decided to mimic this to keep it consistent which was a little bit more difficult on the wiring side, but VCs are pretty cheap and give us a lot of flexibility. When my phone or doorbell rings, I can turn things down in my main room very quickly. Beyond that, it makes it possible to utilize a single Sonos Connect (which just give us the ability to adjust master volume for all sources) by tweaking VCs in each room, or just leaving them all the way down--off--when not using that room. Many people suggested staying away from them and maybe I will stop using them in the future, but they're nice for now and I find them very convenient. For you, you're really tied to a WHA controller with an app allowing you to control individual room volume and source since I assume you don't have CAT cable to control locations per room, or a stack of Sonos Connects and a 12ch amp. I considered getting the Monoprice 6 zone kit for a while, but the apps seemed a bit buggy and I didn't want to wire for the wall controls (CAT5). The HTD system was next in line but a little too expensive for me.

I bought a used Connect as well. Buying used has been great. It's amazing how much the used Sonos equipment demands on the open market. There's lots of people out there gobbling it up to expand their systems! I'm sure I'll be doing the same soon (my 3 year old wants music in her room now).
 
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