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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, as always fantastic stuff to read through and look at all the designs & how each setup is completly individual.


I have an idea to do my curved screen, at the moment it is projected onto a flat yellowish wall, and I have ordered a 3050x1550 6mm pvc foam filled sheet flat white ( very light & easy enough to bend & cut with a knife, but also solid & smooth).


being 2.35 with anamorphic prisms I get a little horizontal bending top & bottom ( about 8cm difference from center to edges. Now I need to make it curved & using a length of wood marked the center height & moved it to the edge & moved away from the wall until the edges were projected the same size, this worked out to be about 110mm away from the wall at both sides (L & R).


So I will need a curve with 110mm pull off each side.


I have done a preliminary design, and wondering what you guys think, weither the wood will be too heavy & better of with an aluminium frame?...


the curved horizontal lengths are 16mm mdf, the vertical wood is 40mmx20mm or 2x1 dressed pine. the mounting as you can see is a piece of 4x2 bolted to the wall with 2 vertical bolts to hold the screen on the wall.


The masking for 16:9 format is a hinged black sheet of 6mm mdf covered in blackout material (same as the border), and will be hinged to the sides so I can fold in for 16:9 viewing, or fold out for 2.35:1 viewing.


let me know what you think, as the screen material will turn up tomorrow.

 

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That is really cool looking...
 

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Great idea!


Have you tested the image quality on the PVC Foam Core material yet. I assume this is a product we can purchase here in a 120" X 60" material called Sintra. We can order here for about $200 US Per sheet. It even comes with an adhesive back is desired.


I would like to build a curved screen as well but have not had enough time to figure out how much curve you need. I guess it all depends on which PJ and lens setup you have.


Looks like a lot faster way than tring to stretch a fabric or vinyl.


Keep us updated on your progress and post pictures whan you can.


Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I have seen it in action, a mate of mine works for a mining safety company, and they use the stuff for signs & billboards, so it quite sturdy, but also flexible and easy to cut :)


& he got a sheet for his projector, just screwed directly on his wall as he has a 4:3 projector.


sizes they come in are largest 3050x1550mm or 3050x1220mm, not sure what that is in imperial...


yea will post more pics when I get the stuff & start wippin up a framework.


easiest way to see how much bend iyou need has been posted before in another thread, but do check it do the following.


turn on your projector & get the image how you want it.

Get a length on something that is taller than your image height & mark top and bottom of image against the wall at the smallest point (center), then move to the edge & using it with a bubble level to it's parallel to wall, move towards the projector until the marks line up with what you marked before, then measure the distance to the wall... this is your furtherest bend point, mine was 110mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well received my screen material today, it's called Forex-Classic made in switzerland...

looks like it's going to work great, but I just had an idea about an adjustable curve screen design, so I can actualy adjust the amount of curve because the closer youmove the screen to the projector, the more curve will be needed, and I think I will have to adjust this to get around my bass traps and behind my speakers, and also may re-adjust the distance the projector is from the screen.


design and probably build in the next few days, will post findings...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
re-thinking design a little. GOing to stick with the curved cut out piece of wood, but reducing to 2 lengths to make it lighter, and realised the screen willl have to partially go infront of my bass traps in the corners, so I will have to pull it off the wall about 400mm, so will look at a strong shelf braket to bolt onto the wall.


see new design below, have made slots in the horizontal wood for adjusting the angle if I need to.


I am hoping this will be strong enough.


The screen itself probably weighs around 15-20kg, plus the wood will probably be around 20kg, and I am sure each bracket can handle 20kg+ , so using 4 of them (with 2 upside down, obviously will mean it will handle less weight ) should work.


Let me know what you guys think, or should I make a stand for it to stand from the ground? ( but I think it won't look as tidy as with brackets hidden behind screen)



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
built the frame work today...


not bad effort considering I had my 3 year old getting into everything, Plus having broken a couple of ribs on Thursday... damn it hurts to lift stuff and breath...


Anyway, click on image to see the build stages, from templates, to cutouts, to screwing the brackets, then coach bolt brackets and hang frame for test size, before fitting the screen.

If since fitted the lower brackets to the wall, and if I have time later on in the week, fit the screen material and re-hang, then work out the masking once I get the projector & lenses back up on the ceiling.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mounted with all brackets installed:



Mounted with Screen screwed to framework:




Just have to build the masking wingdings, which I will be picking up some black felt tomorrow & making a 150mm border with 2 x 300mm hinged wings for the 16x9 mask that will open out to the 21x9 aspect :)


looks REALLY good to me :)


I'm exited!....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
retracted...


As this is a 'subset' build of my complete home theatre, go here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=stevodude


for the complete process so far.


maybe I'll do sections of the build in the relevant forums, then link them all to my main Theatre build, as another project I'm part way through is a full size stand up mame cabinet and restoring an original Pacman coffee table 2 player game.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude /forum/post/0


Could the moderators please move this thread, and add it to my existing Home theatre build project please, instead of multiple threads on the same room :)


thanx, move this thread to here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=stevodude

Come on, we don't want to lose it! How about you add a link to your other thread, redirecting them here?


Garry

AVS Moderator
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
screen border width... does it mater how wide this is?


My border will be about 150mm around the picture, but most I've seen only have anything from 25mm - 75mm (1 to 3 inches), but mine will be 6" or 150mm+...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude /forum/post/0


screen border width... does it mater how wide this is?


My border will be about 150mm around the picture, but most I've seen only have anything from 25mm - 75mm (1 to 3 inches), but mine will be 6" or 150mm+...

I'd say at least 3", but I can't see any problems with it being larger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx /forum/post/0


that's an awesome design and exactly what i'd do to my own home theater...


...if only i could afford a lense to do so.

Somewhere I've seen instructions on how to make a lens using a crystal wedge from here:

http://www.massillonplaque.com/produ...4&productid=85


'Course you use a plain one, not one with engraving on it...



I'll see if I can find it.


Garry
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yea mine is using 2 x crystal wedges from a trophy shop :) total less than $150 :)


there is a little bit of separation with displaying computer desktop, but during movies it's pretty undetectable - even more so when I get my masking as ill chop a few mm off the image into the masking.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude /forum/post/0


yea mine is using 2 x crystal wedges from a trophy shop :) total less than $150 :)


there is a little bit of separation with displaying computer desktop, but during movies it's pretty undetectable - even more so when I get my masking as ill chop a few mm off the image into the masking.
How did you guys figure out the size, shape, angles, wedge combinations, etc.to buy?

Thanks-
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the angle doesn't matter too much, as long as it's around the 7 - 20 degrees I guess.


You can test how big you need with a piece of a4 paper and place it infront of the projector about 6 inches or 150mm and measure what size the image is, and based on that you can tell how big a lense you will need.


I just got the biggest they had, which was 150mmx170mm with a 10 deg angle(i think it was).


there is another site called diyaudio.com that has a hughe thread on the prisms and various setups ( about 150pages to troll through ) :) make notes, buy the biggest you can, wak it up :)


just about finished my masking and it's looking great, photo's to come.

9mm mdf covered in felt adn stapled and velco'd onto the screen :) quick and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
just had a pm on how do you use the lense to make the image, so this is a rough idea


bought my lenses, and depending on your location ( usa/australia etc) on where to get them.


they are type-7 optical crystal ( the really expensive ones are type-8).


you just buy them from your local awards/trophy house - about $60aud each, genereally need 2. around the 150mm square wedge shape.


over at diyaudio there is a hughe thread that i've contributed to, and is worth sitting down for an hour or 2 to got through the whole thread if your interested in diy'ing a 2.35 lense.


computer can send 4x3, 16x9 & 21x9(vertically stretched) to the projector, then the projector is receiving the data and either

1. recieves 4:3 data, using the projectors 4:3 compress mode to compress the image, but is displaying 16x9 on screen( don't do this very often as i don't have much 4x3 stuff)

2. receives 16x9 data using projector 4:3 compress mode to view 16x9 content @ 16x9 image on screen. ** note you do loose horizontal pixels due to compressing horizontally.

3. receives 21x9 data (vertically stretched) using the projector in native 16x9 mode projects the vertical stretch image through lense causing it to horizontal stretch it back out to it's native 21x9 format, getting a better 2.35x1 image.


hope thats not too confusing, but go to diyaudio for full imformation.
 

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