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I have always been a fan of curved screens.
They enhance the contrast and color and fight off more ambient lighting in the room verses flat screens. They also look more theatrical. I chose a 2:35:1 aspect ratio because I keep the same picture height and mask from the sides for my different aspect ratios as in most theater houses. My screen is 4 feet high by 9 feet 4" wide. The following instructions will work with any aspect ratio.
You first start with a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood. Cut this into 2 peices of 1.5' x 8'. Lay one of these srips down flat on the floor. We do not need too deep a curve for the gain we are talking about. To get the proper curve attach a marker to a 25' string.
It helps to have 2 people do this. Place the marker at one front corner of the plywood and have the other person take the other end of the string and walk out on center with the plywood till the string is tight. With tention on the string draw your curve from one corner to the next. This should give you a perfect curve. Cut this out with a band saw and place this on top of the other sheet, trace it and cut this out as well.
From the remaining plywood cut 3x3 inch squares. Glue and screw each square flat in 1 foot increments to the curved side of the plywood keeping them flush with the curve. This gives added surface area to attach some screws in ferther steps.
Next I made a jig with 2 2x4's each cut to 3' length to hold the what I call the shelves
at a fixed distance to each other. Place both shelves on the floor curved side facing up and attach each 2x4 betwwen them at each end. The 2 x4's are temporary.
Next I took a thin sheet of 4x8 plywood about the thickness of a sheet of paneling and lay this onto the curved side of the shelving. Push this into place and place a screw every 1 foot into the added 3x3 peices of wood we added earlier. Make sure you counter sink your screws. Do this to both shelves. You can now stand this up very carefully. We now need to add support to keep the screen flat top to bottom. We do this by cutting some 2x2's and screwing them into place in 1 foot increments in a vertical position on the back side of the screen between the top and bottom shelves. Make sure these are straight and not warped.
You should now have a perfect curved form for a curved screen. Place the form back down on the ground curved side up.
Now for the finishing touch.
I ordered a matt white 4'x10' sheet of laminent from a local cabinet company. Make sure it is smooth with no texture. I had them cut this for me to 4x9.4 feet. The cost was $100.
With the matt white side facing up glue this onto the curved side of the plywood. The laminent is thin and flexible so it is easy to work with. Apply weight and let dry over night.
After drying over night you can stand up the screen.
To mount the screen to the wall I mounted two 2x4's each 8 feet in lenght in a horizontal position 3 feet apart one on top of the other to the wall where I wanted the screen. Place the screen against the wall with each shelve on top of the 2x4's and screw down into place. The screen becomes very sturdy once mounted to the wall.
Walla! You now have a custom curved screen that would have cost $1000's if purchased
commercialy.
The screen looks very professional.
You will now have a very bright picture with uniform light output from one end of the screen to the other with no hot spotting what so ever.
I only recommend using a curved screen with a digital crt projector as they have the flexability to shape the picture to fit the screen perfect with no geomitry distortion because of their digital convergence.
I am running a 7" crt projector with 5000 hours on it in its linear range and my picture at 9 feet wide is at times to bright.
I can send some pictures to any one interested via e mail. Just send me an e mail.
[This message has been edited by Alan Gouger (edited July 07, 1999).]
They enhance the contrast and color and fight off more ambient lighting in the room verses flat screens. They also look more theatrical. I chose a 2:35:1 aspect ratio because I keep the same picture height and mask from the sides for my different aspect ratios as in most theater houses. My screen is 4 feet high by 9 feet 4" wide. The following instructions will work with any aspect ratio.
You first start with a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood. Cut this into 2 peices of 1.5' x 8'. Lay one of these srips down flat on the floor. We do not need too deep a curve for the gain we are talking about. To get the proper curve attach a marker to a 25' string.
It helps to have 2 people do this. Place the marker at one front corner of the plywood and have the other person take the other end of the string and walk out on center with the plywood till the string is tight. With tention on the string draw your curve from one corner to the next. This should give you a perfect curve. Cut this out with a band saw and place this on top of the other sheet, trace it and cut this out as well.
From the remaining plywood cut 3x3 inch squares. Glue and screw each square flat in 1 foot increments to the curved side of the plywood keeping them flush with the curve. This gives added surface area to attach some screws in ferther steps.
Next I made a jig with 2 2x4's each cut to 3' length to hold the what I call the shelves
at a fixed distance to each other. Place both shelves on the floor curved side facing up and attach each 2x4 betwwen them at each end. The 2 x4's are temporary.
Next I took a thin sheet of 4x8 plywood about the thickness of a sheet of paneling and lay this onto the curved side of the shelving. Push this into place and place a screw every 1 foot into the added 3x3 peices of wood we added earlier. Make sure you counter sink your screws. Do this to both shelves. You can now stand this up very carefully. We now need to add support to keep the screen flat top to bottom. We do this by cutting some 2x2's and screwing them into place in 1 foot increments in a vertical position on the back side of the screen between the top and bottom shelves. Make sure these are straight and not warped.
You should now have a perfect curved form for a curved screen. Place the form back down on the ground curved side up.
Now for the finishing touch.
I ordered a matt white 4'x10' sheet of laminent from a local cabinet company. Make sure it is smooth with no texture. I had them cut this for me to 4x9.4 feet. The cost was $100.
With the matt white side facing up glue this onto the curved side of the plywood. The laminent is thin and flexible so it is easy to work with. Apply weight and let dry over night.
After drying over night you can stand up the screen.
To mount the screen to the wall I mounted two 2x4's each 8 feet in lenght in a horizontal position 3 feet apart one on top of the other to the wall where I wanted the screen. Place the screen against the wall with each shelve on top of the 2x4's and screw down into place. The screen becomes very sturdy once mounted to the wall.
Walla! You now have a custom curved screen that would have cost $1000's if purchased
commercialy.
The screen looks very professional.
You will now have a very bright picture with uniform light output from one end of the screen to the other with no hot spotting what so ever.
I only recommend using a curved screen with a digital crt projector as they have the flexability to shape the picture to fit the screen perfect with no geomitry distortion because of their digital convergence.
I am running a 7" crt projector with 5000 hours on it in its linear range and my picture at 9 feet wide is at times to bright.
I can send some pictures to any one interested via e mail. Just send me an e mail.
[This message has been edited by Alan Gouger (edited July 07, 1999).]