[Mypenname]

Will I am almost finished my power masking system, so I thought I would post some quick shots of it. I still have to adjust the covers for the sides. The screen size is 55"x83" and is a plain blackout cloth screen streched out over a frame made of 1x4.

The masking system is made of 1 1/2 steel conduit for the shafts with bearings on the ends. the shaft is driven by surplus 12 volt power window motors from a car, they run a rubber belt from a vacuum to the 1 1/2 electrical conduit. The bottom mask is counter balanced with a couple of pulleys and weights.( I will get some shots of this)

I have a few more shots on my web site that I just started to put up today.

http://penname.netfirms.com/home_theater.htm
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-scree..._top_rod_2.jpg
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-scree..._Bottom_Ro.jpg


This is the remote controler for the masking it powers the relays(needs to be cleaned )
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-scree...ing_remote.jpg

Some quick composite shots of it on action.

1.33:1
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-screen-masking-4x3.jpg

1.78:1
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-scree...ing_1_78x1.jpg

2.35:1 I think
http://penname.netfirms.com/HT-screen-masking-220x2.jpg


-----

Mark

 

[I'mListening]

Very, very slick. Wanna do mine?

 

[ebacherville]

What size screen are you using and projector model??


Looks Sweet!!!


I tink i may reconsider my plans?

 

[WatchThis]

looks very, very nice...


i'm trying to figure out the best way to build a strong enuf frame to stretch my cloth across... did u do anything special w/ cross-bracing, or did u just build a square w/ pine boards? no warping, or other assorted wood problems?


nice job.

 

[ebacherville]

Since you are going to cover it in masking try 3/4 or 1/2" particle board.. is always streight... Unlike pine that is isaly bent in some way.

 

[Craig_W]

Very slick, really clever alternative use of motors. Could you post more pictures of the pulleys and stuff to show how the rest of it operates?

 

[Mypenname]

Thanks for all the kind words. I hope some of you get some ideas for your own masking. It only cost me about $200 to build the screen and mask.

The motors were $25 each and velveteen was 45 and blackout cloth about $30 and other assorted part add up. My projector is a 75U on a 55"x83" screen.

It seems this I am having some trouble with my links(2 many hits I guess)

I have uploaded to another site and added some shots showing the counter weights and the screen frame.

Let me know if you want any more info

http://penname.netfirms.com/home_theater.htm


-----

Mark

 

[smyth22]

Mark:

A couple of I hope not to dumb questions:


How do you get the motor to stop at the right point for each AR? By eye or?

How do you get the the masks to move in the opposite direction at the same time? Connected by ropes/pullies or?


I don't think I get the basic mechanics of your system i.e. as you change ARs how are the straight eges of the top of the bottom and bottom of the top masks maintained?


I am very impressed with the inventive use of common and used parts to produce an elegant outcome - I just want to understand it a bit better so I can steal it for my own theatre.


Cheers

Peter

 

[Mypenname]

Smyth22 I don't have automatic AR settings. I use the remote to control the top and bottom independently due to I have to zoom the projector back to use the 4x3 setting because the largest I could stretch the black out cloth was 55" high.

To keep the edges sharp on the top and bottom I used 2 pcs of 1/2" electrical conduit stuck together to form stronger bars.

At a later date I will probably make an automatic system(something to feed the tinker habit that I have!), but I want to get the room finished soon. When wiring up the 4 12v relays for the motors make sure you wire them so that both the up and down relays can't work at the same time. If you need more info on this or anything else let me know and I will try to assist.

-----

Mark

 

[smyth22]

THat's helpful Mark, I now have a much better idea of how the mechanics of your system work.


Thanks

Peter.

 

[smyth22]

THat's helpful Mark, I now have a much better idea of how the mechanics of your system work.


Thanks

Peter.

 

[BLS]

That's some tinker habit you have! Tell me your married so I can convince my wife there are others like us. If you have one, what does your Wife think of your "Tinker Habit"?


Zowie! I like it!

 

[jmhays]

Mark,

Excellent speaker stands as well! Those are exactly what I was looking for! The only thing I need to do different is to make the center stand shorter with an adjustable angle to point it higer or lower if I need to move it around the room. Any ideas?

 

[Samurai Jack]

Mypenname, wow impressive setup! Very elegant solution to masking...love the one motor system you've come up with (why didn't I think of that?!).


I swear, you're building my theater! Invasive ductwork and all! Hope you don't mine me using your site as the blueprint for my own room. It's almost exactly what I have to work with, and almost exactly what I want to do! Thanks so much for the idea - I'm on a tight budget and this will work beautifully. Looks like a great room, enjoy it! I can't wait to do mine having seen how wonderfully yours has turned out.

 

[bugman72]

Not to skew from the original subject, but how does the metal studs work in your home theater? I've heard a bunch about using these (both positive and negative). I know that they are generally cheaper and easier to install than standard wooden studs. My concern would be with them rattling during bass heavy scenes.

 

[scottwood2]

Excellent post. Very nice job. I am setting up my system and I am also trying to find some way to do masking for the screen. Mine will be a manual pull down unit. It is 4:3 but want a way to mask off the areas when I watch a DVD. Any ideas on this? Though maybe I could clip something light to the screen but do not want to put any creases in the screen. It is a non tensioned model. Just a standard Dalite model B unit.

 

[Samurai Jack]

Scottwood...well the bottom masking is easy for you right? You just have to roll it up a bit to mask off the bottom. Now the top...hmmm.


What if you went an bought a roller shade window treatment. They make them black, and you can get opaque ones.


You could mound the roller shade roller behind the DaLite roller case. Then you could put guides that would act both as a gude and a stop for the shade...which you would pull down kind of /over and around/ the Dalite roller casing. The window shade roller would always be hidden from view, and the shade material itself would always be hanging to the front, in the ready. It would have perhaps the added benefit of "masking" the dalite roller casing itself and preventing reflections off of it.


Let me try to illustrate in ASCII:


...........__________....................................... .....

........../..---------.\\_............................................

..........|..|.........|/...\\..

 

[scottwood2]

That is a good Idea. Screen coming soon. Might try that. Just wonder how well I can get the screen/shade to stop where I need it?


Thanks

 

[Samurai Jack]

I'm surprised a screen manufacturer doesn't offer some budget solution like this on a manual pulldown. Maybe they will with HT projector's becomming "budget" themselves.


All you would need to guide and stop the shade would be something like a J-channel type vinyl or aluminum piece...or just walk around your local hardware store until you see something that will work. Heck even just a couple "tabs" of some sort would be sufficient. The shade usually has some kind of bar or fabric fold sewn in to the bottom that makes it thicker than the rest of the shade...so the stop is very nearly built right in. You just have to find the right thing to use for the guide.


Heck maybe even some of those plastic report cover spines (the slip on type for clear covers) could be cut up, attached, and made to work well.


On the other hand, part of the beauty of the roller shade mechanism is you can get it to stay where you put it anyway...just like it operates on a window...I can pull it down part way and make it stay...and then let it go up...part way...and make it stay. Viola! But I would put stops and guides to make it easier to operate accurately and give it a finished look and feel.


Look at mypenname's web site and find the picture that shows the drywall corner bead he used to cover the mechanism and allow the masking to slide between the screen and the corner bead. This gives a feel for what I'm talking about...except in your case it could be much more simple.


I'd be interested to see what you do come up with in the end...don't forget to post!

 

[Oren Jacob]

This thread motivated me to give it a go...


Not wanting to fabricate metal, I went the wood route. I'm going for a

1.33 Dalite PermWall DaMat mounted on my DIY support with DIY duvetyne

black permanent masking left/right and a top and bottom duvetyne cards

that I can raise and lower based on what I'm watching.


The new table saw showed up today from Home Depot along with all the

1x4 pine lumber and a bunch of flat L brackets, pulleys, cord, and assorted

goodies for counterweights. The fabric and the screen are somewhere in UPS

land. And hopefully I can get some quality daytime to do the lumber cutting

within the next week or so and, by the time the PermWall and the fabric shows

up, be ready to install the masking along with the screen.


Thanks for the motivation! Mypenname, you've set quite a high bar to reach

for. Wish me luck, and I'll try and post pictures when I finish this little project.


Oren