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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got in a Rythmik 12" Servo Kit in the mail today, thought I'd start a build thread.


Building the down firing box the plans on Rythmik's site 15.5" (w) x 15.5" (d) x 24" (h). Nothing fancy. Just a satin black box.


I ordered a jasper jig for my router from parts-express to do the driver cutouts. Supposed to be here Monday-Tues. This weekend I will be cutting out the box (3/4" MDF) and get some of the frame put together and glued.


Will be posting pics sometime this weekend as I get work done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got all the pieces cut out on Saturday. Today I screwed and glued the 4 main walls together. This is my first attempt at any sort of woodworking so of coarse the cuts aren't perfect. Needless to say I have alot of puttying to do in the near future.


One thing I learned was that I completly suck at cutting circles with a jigsaw freehand. My router jasper jig should be here in a couple of days for the driver cutout(not going to attempt that freehand).

Here are some photos
 

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Looking good!..For the interior holes you can always use a 4 inch hole saw mated to your drill or if you have a drill press.Keep us posted.
 

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Looks Great so far. Just a thought...since it's downfiring, why not make it functional as well by adding a Table top of Granite, Corian, Wood or whatever. The design is dense enough that anything placed on it wouldn't know the difference. I've got 2 end tables and a coffee table all with downfiring subs and unless i tell my guests, knowbodies the wiser.
 

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Nice choice! Rythmik is well thought of. Looks like your coming along, it'll be fun following your Thread. If you make a boo-boo, take heart, we makem too. We get better at hiding them with time
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 /forum/post/15529581


Looks Great so far. Just a thought...since it's downfiring, why not make it functional as well by adding a Table top of Granite, Corian, Wood or whatever. The design is dense enough that anything placed on it wouldn't know the difference. I've got 2 end tables and a coffee table all with downfiring subs and unless i tell my guests, knowbodies the wiser.

I actually considered the 15" and making an end table to begin with. However, the box would have been much larger and I would have had cable running issues. I decided to go smaller so that the sub will fit behind/beside my TV. If you look at my Home Theater Pics on photobucket you will get a better feel for why. I may make a 2nd sub one day and use them as large bookshelf speaker stands. For now just a box will do



Does anyone have any suggestions on legs? According to the specs they need to be 2.5". I have considered mounting rollers and/or making some legs out of scrap MDF.
 

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You can try a hybrid model for the feet. Have coasters, but hide them behind some MDF. Leave enough clearance so that you can still wheel the subwoofer ...
 

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I don't want to stir the pot but you are a good candidate for an infinite baffle setup. Behind your tv that empty space under the stairs... would be perfect for a future IB setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've considered IB actually. But this is my first stab at DIY so I figured I'd go simple.


Monday I got the internal braces trimmed and glued in place. Tonight I put the top on then started puttying to seal up cracks and over/undercuts. Spent about an hour trying to figure out how to mount a jasper jig onto my router and boy do I feel dumb now, hehe. Cut out the interior bottom hole. It's late so decided to stop for the night and clean up. Uploaded 4 more pics to my initial link.







 

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Need a little work with your woodworking, but looks like it came out good. Let us know how it sounds. I'd run a bead of silicone on all the edges to make sure it is sealed up good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah my woodworking is weak I know. Fret not. When I'm done this thing will be air tight



The white stuff on the inside is nail filler. Ran a bead of it around the edges on the top. I plan on giving it a good dose of silicone after i break it in (pre-paint job)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killigath /forum/post/15550207


Yeah my woodworking is weak I know. Fret not. When I'm done this thing will be air tight



The white stuff on the inside is nail filler. Ran a bead of it around the edges on the top. I plan on giving it a good dose of silicone after i break it in (pre-paint job)

I'd carpet that thing if I were you. It's going to take a ton of work to get that to look good enough for paint. If you want to put the time in I guess you could make it work though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah have actually been thinking about carpet. I may at least throw a coat of paint on to help seal the outside and make it look more uniform for now. I'm sure this will be an ongoing process. I would like to put thin plywood over it and stain it eventually. But for now I just want a working sub that's 1/2 way clean looking.


So more photos. I cut out the outer rim, screws, glues and let is sit over night. Just got done sealing the whole inside with Alex Plus (Acrylic Latex Caulk with Silicon). That's all the white stuff on the interior, not pretty, but should make a good air tight seal. Also put wood putty on the outside and letting it sit overnight for a final sanding. I'm gonna put a 1/4" round over on all the sides and corners so it won't cut anyone's (my) leg. Also ordered some feet on Amazon.


Should be able to give it a dry run Saturday evening.











 

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Don't sweat it, everyone has to start somewhere. You could use the textured truck bed liner which is much more forgiving than straight paint.


As long as the structure is sound the cosmetics can be fixed with a little work.


If you want to sand it for paint you may want to pick up a palm sander to make short work of that part of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have a mouse sander that I used once already. When I sanded the initial putty job it left small places in the putty where i assume air was trapped and not filled correctly. I re-applied over the indentions and will sand it tomarrow to see how it works.


Truck bed liner huh? That sounds interesting. That would make the finish similar to the tough finish the most PA speakers have on them for travel. Where would i get some? Lowe's ? Auto Parts?


Never really painted before. Other than helping people who already had paint picked out. Any advice is much appreciated.
 

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I like your bracing scheme, it's going to work really well. If you don't like the paint, felt or carpet would be easy on the eyes.

Quote:
When I sanded the initial putty job it left small places in the putty where i assume air was trapped and not filled correctly. I re-applied over the indentions and will sand it tomarrow to see how it works.

When you resand, you should do the delicate areas by hand with pretty fine sandpaper. Nothing rougher than 220, that's even a little to rough for the problem areas.
 

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Looks excellent!

Way beefier than my Rythmik enclosure design. Enjoy
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killigath /forum/post/15568914


I have a mouse sander that I used once already. When I sanded the initial putty job it left small places in the putty where i assume air was trapped and not filled correctly. I re-applied over the indentions and will sand it tomarrow to see how it works.


Truck bed liner huh? That sounds interesting. That would make the finish similar to the tough finish the most PA speakers have on them for travel. Where would i get some? Lowe's ? Auto Parts?

It can take several coats, for sure. I think you are doing well.


Ya. I think you can even get it a Wal-Mart. The bonus to it is it sprays on easily from cans, it helps reduce vibration, it is very durable and easy to touch up should damage occur. Of course, the look is not for everyone but it is very similiar to the finishes on some commercial subs. It also comes in a a few colors if black is not your thing.
 
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