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My DIY Seymour AV 165" Screen

2379 Views 15 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  briandm81, 
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I'm finally moved into the new house and ready to start working on getting the home theater ready for action. They previous owners were kind enough to leave us a 70" TV set up in the room, but that's far too small! Here are the basic specs of the room:

13'6" Wide
18' Deep
9'6" Ceiling

Here's what it will look like when I get the velvet installed just for reference:
3161720


Front row is 9'8" from the screen while the back row is 14' 8". I plan for the back row to be my primary viewing position with my three kids sitting in the front row. I also plan to add a riser under the back row to take it from 7" to 14". But first things first...the screen.

I was originally going to max out the wall with the biggest possible screen, but the material cost of the screen was going to skyrocket since I can't get anything longer than 12' poplar at Lowe's. So...here's the screen plan:
3161721


This will include 144" (12') 1x4 popular for the main frame. The rest will be 1x3 poplar for the top and bottom braces as well as the vertical supports. I'm planning a French cleat to attach to the wall which s also illustrated. Finally, I plan to use Seymour AV Center Stage UF material. I considered going with XD because I like the higher gain, but with the front row being that close, I thought I would play it safe with the UF and see how I like it. The UF is only 84" tall while my design calls for 81" in height. This means I will have 1.5" on the top on bottom. I'll have another frame around this with magnets for masking, but I haven't designed that just yet. So...thoughts? Does this look like a proper @MississippiMan DIY screen design? :)

Here's a more 3D view:
3161724
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Here's my building supplies lists from Lowe's:
ItemQuantityPriceTotal PriceURL
1-in x 3-in x 8-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board
4​
 $ 14.17 $ 56.68https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-i...75-in-x-2-5-in-x-8-ft-Poplar-Board/1000074277
1-in x 4-in x 8-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board
2​
 $ 17.04 $ 34.08https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-i...75-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Poplar-Board/1000074283
1-in x 4-in x 12-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board
2​
 $ 25.56 $ 51.12https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-i...0-75-in-x-4-5-in-x-12-ft-Poplar-Board/4768039
1-in x 8-in x 6-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board
1​
 $ 26.48 $ 26.48https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-i...5-in-x-7-25-in-x-6-ft-Poplar-Board/1000074293
1-in x 3-in x 12-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board
2​
 $ 21.00 $ 42.00https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-i...0-75-in-x-3-5-in-x-12-ft-Poplar-Board/4768037
Total $ 210.36
Tax $ 17.35
Grand Total $ 227.71
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MississippiMan
Proper indeed........................'cept the inside braces should be on edge, not flat. It would be better to use 1x3's on edge against the Horizontal Top & Bottom Braces as far as vertically supporting the width of the Frame. As is, they are prone to bending.

Just stress dynamics.....beyond that it looks great!
(y)

Here's a Tip:
Rip a 45 degree slant along the Bottom Edge of the length of the Top Brace ( you should make that a 1x4 for this option ) and that will give you 1/2 of a screen-frame-wide French Cleat. I did that on my last Frame and it was de-Bomb!
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Not sure I understand. When you say inside braces, are you talking about the top and bottom? I have those perpendicular to the top and bottom so that it should keep it straight.
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Daboyle82
use metal braces like the following - you want some tension on the screen and it can cause bending. -

www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 4 in. Zinc-Plated Heavy-Duty Corner Brace (6-Pack) 12534 - The Home Depot

When you need heavy-duty reinforcement for your flat surfaces, the Everbilt 4 in. Heavy-Duty Corner Braces is an ideal solution. They are compatible with right-angle corner joins and designed to sit flush
www.homedepot.com

www.homedepot.com

Simpson Strong-Tie CF 4-15/16 in. x 6 in. Concrete Form Angle CF-R - The Home Depot

Simpson Strong-Tie connectors make projects easier to build while making them stronger and safer. The CF-R is used where a moderate-size shelf bracket and reinforcing angle is needed. When used for tilt-up
www.homedepot.com

www.homedepot.com

Hardware Essentials 8 x 1 in. Zinc Plated Flat Corner Brace (5-Pack) 851105.0 - The Home Depot

Easily reinforce your handiwork with this flat corner iron brace. Each brace is designed to strengthen corners for doors, chests and windows. Mounting hardware is not included.
www.homedepot.com
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MississippiMan
briandm81 said:
Not sure I understand. When you say inside braces, are you talking about the top and bottom? I have those perpendicular to the top and bottom so that it should keep it straight.
Click to expand...
No...said the Vertical Supporting Braces (4) that are laying Flat to the face of the frame. On Edge they create a far stiffer assembly.
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MississippiMan
Daboyle82 said:
use metal braces like the following - you want some tension on the screen and it can cause bending. -

www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 4 in. Zinc-Plated Heavy-Duty Corner Brace (6-Pack) 12534 - The Home Depot

When you need heavy-duty reinforcement for your flat surfaces, the Everbilt 4 in. Heavy-Duty Corner Braces is an ideal solution. They are compatible with right-angle corner joins and designed to sit flush
www.homedepot.com

www.homedepot.com

Simpson Strong-Tie CF 4-15/16 in. x 6 in. Concrete Form Angle CF-R - The Home Depot

Simpson Strong-Tie connectors make projects easier to build while making them stronger and safer. The CF-R is used where a moderate-size shelf bracket and reinforcing angle is needed. When used for tilt-up
www.homedepot.com

www.homedepot.com

Hardware Essentials 8 x 1 in. Zinc Plated Flat Corner Brace (5-Pack) 851105.0 - The Home Depot

Easily reinforce your handiwork with this flat corner iron brace. Each brace is designed to strengthen corners for doors, chests and windows. Mounting hardware is not included.
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
If the Frame shown was "Kreg Jigged" with Pocket Screws, the Simpson Strong Tie components would be redundant. They just add weight & extra expense.

Also, they place Metal at locations where attaching Fabric with staples is hyper critical.

A properly constructed Kreg Frame will be entirely self supporting, The Simpson hardware was most popular back when people were constructing Frames "on-the-flat" and not using Pocket Screws.

The difference between using and not using a Kreg is extreme...almost comically so.
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2
So....this then:
3161865


And more 3D:
3161866


Basically like I'm framing up a wall...with a Kreg. This allows for a little distance between the front where the screen goes and the supports (1/4").
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M
9' from a 165" screen... whoa man that's some first row stuff right there.

What light cannon of a projector are you using?
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Daboyle82
MississippiMan said:
If the Frame shown was "Kreg Jigged" with Pocket Screws, the Simpson Strong Tie components would be redundant. They just add weight & extra expense.

Also, they place Metal at locations where attaching Fabric with staples is hyper critical.

A properly constructed Kreg Frame will be entirely self supporting, The Simpson hardware was most popular back when people were constructing Frames "on-the-flat" and not using Pocket Screws.

The difference between using and not using a Kreg is extreme...almost comically so.
Click to expand...
I get it, but some people dont want to bother with the kreg or dont know how to use it properly and have very basic woodworking skills. Just giving the OP options.....
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MississippiMan
briandm81 said:
So....this then:


And more 3D:
View attachment 3161866

Basically like I'm framing up a wall...with a Kreg. This allows for a little distance between the front where the screen goes and the supports (1/4").
Click to expand...
You got it!
3161986
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MississippiMan
Daboyle82 said:
I get it, but some people dont want to bother with the kreg or dont know how to use it properly and have very basic woodworking skills. Just giving the OP options.....
Click to expand...
I had to deal with the same recalcitrance when I started to go into spraying vs rolling. Basically speaking, advising others on the best route to take is almost always the safest course to follow. Not all will chose to take the advice given, but one cannot be held accountable for that. Accoutability comes when one gives advice that turns out to generate a crop of sour grapes.

Advice and instructions go hand-in-glove with DIY'ism....if the "adviser" will take the time to be pro-active after the first go-round.

If I had simply posted about how much improved my Screen efforts were by Spraying instead of Rolling, but not continued to teach others by my example as well as give out tutorials, there would be a plethora of mediocre Rolled screens out there since 2004. Nope...someone had to actually show / prove to me that Spraying made not just a difference, but all the difference in the World. The example was not lost on me.

The same with the Kreg. I used Simpson and other similar braces when building Screen Frames....and experienced about every caveat that goes with them. A few years back someone suggested using a Kreg...but like so many other cheapskate DIY'ers I balked at spending the extra $100-120.00 (...couldn't see that I was spending 1/2 that anyway for my Bracing...) but then I gave it a shot and WOW......

Using a Kreg doesn't really take wood working skill, in fact it helps make quality work easier. Just like Spraying makes creating nearly perfect finishes a reality for the rank NOOB. And believe me...they come through here pretty rank!

All they need is encouragement and when asked for, instructions. Z'ats what I do.

But by all means, keep making suggestions like you did. You are right in saying that presenting differing options help those who read....but do not post, come away with all the more choices.
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marantz545 said:
9' from a 165" screen... whoa man that's some first row stuff right there.

What light cannon of a projector are you using?
Click to expand...
With my throw distance, I have a relatively limited selection that will both allow for 165" and be bright enough with a .8 gain screen. Here's the list I've come up with:

Epson 5050UB or 6050UB
Mounts at 16' 2" and allows for the brightest image. Also among the most expensive. Still don't like that its 4 million pixels versus 8 million for everything else. Apparently the lens makes up for the difference...

LG CineBeam HU810PW
Same price as 5050UB, with higher lumens, but ends up still not as bright for HDR based on the projector central calculator. I like that it uses a laser...no bulb replacement and more consistent.

Optoma UHD50X
Great price, low latency, but not as bright as the other options for HDR.

BenQ TK850
Also great price, higher latency.

JVC LX-NZ3B
The most expensive option next to the 6050UB. I like that it's 4K, though I'm sure the blacks won't be as good as the Epson models. I like that it's laser. Also among the brightest for HDR on my .8 gain screen.

Current plan is to get the screen built and then figure out my budget situation and pick a projector.
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briandm81 said:
Current plan is to get the screen built and then figure out my budget situation and pick a projector.
Click to expand...
I've got the 6050 and just projecting it on a wall right now as I decide on a screen. I am looking at a 150" 16:9 and at 12' viewing distance, it still seems too big. I have to get back to about 14' before the 150" isn't overwhelmingly large. I think you might need to get the projector first and see if your like your screen size (before building it)... Just project it on a wall. Good luck man!
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MississippiMan
briandm81 said:
With my throw distance, I have a relatively limited selection that will both allow for 165" and be bright enough with a .8 gain screen. Here's the list I've come up with:

Epson 5050UB or 6050UB
Mounts at 16' 2" and allows for the brightest image. Also among the most expensive. Still don't like that its 4 million pixels versus 8 million for everything else. Apparently the lens makes up for the difference...

Current plan is to get the screen built and then figure out my budget situation and pick a projector.
Click to expand...
The 6050 is the way to go. I know a source where you can get it at excellent pricing...I've installed 2 JVC LX-NZ3B's and it is underwhelming. Given the choice myself I would always go for the 6050.
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B
2
I finally ordered my screen components! I have purchased the Center Stage UF, black backer material from Silver Ticket, and some velvet from SY for the outer frame that will eventually have masking attached for switching between 16:9 and 2.4:1. Now I just have to go to Lowes and get my poplar. I've made a few changes to the design:

  • I had to shrink the width from 144" to 140" to allow for a little more room to work in the room. The columns were going to make it too tight.
  • I layered my speakers into the design (HTD Versa's, when they come back in stock). This allowed me to see that I needed to pull the screen off the wall a bit if I want to have 2" of screen clearance from the front of the speaker, which is what Seymour AV recommended with the UF material.
  • I added a 2x8 frame around the entire structure that will be wrapped in black velvet and will have magnets to hold a masking panel at the bottom. This will allow me to make use of the lense memory on the 6050 UB to just move the image and then apply the masking panel.
  • I also plan on blacking out the entire front 60 or inches of my theater with the SY fabric. I haven't ordered enough for that exercise yet, but I have enough coming for my trim, so we'll see how it performs.
  • I changed the spacing of the supports and added two more supports. I did this so that I have the option to fill the screen frame with OC 703 for sound absorption. I really wanted to try Linacoustic, but I can't find a reasonable place to purchase it. The OC 703 I get locally for $15.84 per 2"x24"x48" sheet. This means I can do the entire screen area for less than $200. Linacoustic seems to be well over $300 everwhere I've found it that will ship to me. The only downside to the 703 is that it's yellow, but with the black backer, hopefully that won't be an issue. Would love to hear thoughts on this plan.
Here's the latest:
3170927


3170928
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