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My first DIY. Newb questions inside. Recommendations welcome.

1158 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Thatsnasty
I've been sub-less my whole life, and decided it's time to build my own. I'm not the most experienced, but I have an idea of what parts I'm going to use.

This is going to be a sealed sub.


The driver I wish to use is the fairly new ED 13Av.2:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=554

I'm open to other suggestions on good drivers in this price range as well, or less ($350).


I want to use a plate amp.
http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html

I found this recommended on another post. It seems to be everything I need, including EQ ( I think ). Other recommendations are welcome as well.


My box would be made by my uncle, who is a cabinet maker, and should have no problem doing it for free.


Now for the questions.


I would use the recommended size based on the driver, for a sealed enclosure. How would I go about bracing the sub? Canadiandude posted this picture on a similar thread about DIY, and I liked the design internally, I just don't know how a plate amp would fit in this build.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1206854323


What is a high pass filter? Do I need one for my sub?


What is EQ? I sort of know what it is, but a proper explanation helps. I don't want to have to buy extra equipment to EQ the sub. I've never done it before either.


Do I have to worry about over-excursion if I buy the amp and the driver linked? Basically the amp is only half the rated power of the driver.


I see people post FR charts all the time. I'd like to know how people determine that, or what programs they use to figure out when the sub cuts off.


That's it! Thanks in advance for anyone who responds. My budget is from $500-700, so, like I said, I'm open to different suggestions. I would just like to keep this sealed.
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Go look on the Sigfried Linkwitz site and see his Thor. A good example of straight forward box construction. Actually, as a first timer, read all of his technical notes.
That ED driver is nice, but it seems a little on the pricey side, leaving you with an underpowered amp. A Shiva X with the Behringer EP2000 utilizing an ED EQ2 would give you a better system for about the same price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16876563


The driver I wish to use is the fairly new ED 13Av.2:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=554

I'm open to other suggestions on good drivers in this price range as well, or less ($350).

I'd look at Acoustic Elegance's drivers, probably one of the AV series. I've heard lots of good things about them and their owner? does post in here.

http://www.aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16876563


I would use the recommended size based on the driver, for a sealed enclosure. How would I go about bracing the sub? Canadiandude posted this picture on a similar thread about DIY, and I liked the design internally, I just don't know how a plate amp would fit in this build.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1206854323

Just have your uncle cut a whole that will fit the plate amp in the back (or other location desired) that will fit it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16876563


What is a high pass filter? Do I need one for my sub?

You only need one if you don't want to destroy your sub woofer. Woofers that are aimed at 20hz-40hz frequencies aren't designed to vibrate at killohertz and will get very cross with you if you try it. They filter out any frequencies above a certain point. While in theory your AVR or prepro can do this. It is... unwise... to rely on this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16876563


What is EQ? I sort of know what it is, but a proper explanation helps. I don't want to have to buy extra equipment to EQ the sub. I've never done it before either.

EQ helps equalize the response. Very few drivers or their boxes have a perfect frequency response. Then the room you put them in will affect the frequency response as well, either boosting some frequencies or diminishing them. EQ is there to help bring that closer to the ideal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16876563


Do I have to worry about over-excursion if I buy the amp and the driver linked? Basically the amp is only half the rated power of the driver.

No. The max power ratings on woofers are the point at which, if that level of power were sustained for an extended period of time, it would begin to damage the driver. It is not a "You must have this much power in order to get everything out of the speaker". More power is better, but 500 watts is plenty as long as you aren't an insane bass freak (not that there's anything wrong with being one).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrgeek /forum/post/16877092


Go look on the Sigfried Linkwitz site and see his Thor. A good example of straight forward box construction. Actually, as a first timer, read all of his technical notes.

Do you have a link?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16877371


That ED driver is nice, but it seems a little on the pricey side, leaving you with an underpowered amp. A Shiva X with the Behringer EP2000 utilizing an ED EQ2 would give you a better system for about the same price.

Yeah, I suppose the driver is a bit expensive for a "lower end" build. Thanks for the links. I read around a bit and I heard good things about Shiva's. Also, that Behringer amp has tons of power for only slightly more then plate amp I linked, wow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TPnBobcats /forum/post/16877394


I'd look at Acoustic Elegance's drivers, probably one of the AV series. I've heard lots of good things about them and their owner? does post in here.

http://www.aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/

Thanks, I've already changed my mind on the driver because of you two, haha. I'm debating between the Shiva and something from AE. I want something that digs as low as possible, but still does it with decent authority.

The largest I can go is probably 15". Do you guys have any estimates of what frequencies I can see in room with some of the listed drivers?


Also, I heard that you don't need a high pass filter for sealed subs, only for ported. Is this true? Or can sealed subs still be damaged if you're hitting too high.


Edit: I was also wondering what the specs on the driver itself meant, and what numbers are better to have higher/lower.

For Example, the 12" shiva linked above had these specs.


* Fs: 19.6 Hz

* Le: 0.90mH

* Re: 3.6 Ohms (Voice Coils wired in parallel)

* Qms: 2.60

* Qes: .46

* Qts: 0.39

* Mms: 140g

* Cms: 0.47 mm/N

* Vas: 169L

* Sd: 506 cm^2

* Vd: 2.65L

* BL: 11.66

* X-max: 27mm

* Pmax: 600W

* SPL: 86.3 db/1W/1M, 89.1 dB @ 2.83Vrms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16877785


Thanks, I've already changed my mind on the driver because of you two, haha. I'm debating between the Shiva and something from AE. I want something that digs as low as possible, but still does it with decent authority.

The largest I can go is probably 15". Do you guys have any estimates of what frequencies I can see in room with some of the listed drivers?


Also, I heard that you don't need a high pass filter for sealed subs, only for ported. Is this true? Or can sealed subs still be damaged if you're hitting too high.


Edit: I was also wondering what the specs on the driver itself meant, and what numbers are better to have higher/lower.

For Example, the 12" shiva linked above had these specs.


* Fs: 19.6 Hz

* SPL: 86.3 db/1W/1M, 89.1 dB @ 2.83Vrms

Found what look like good explanations of those parameters here.

Quote:
Fs Driver free air resonance, in Hz. This is the point at which driver impedance is maximum. "This parameter is the free-air resonant frequency of a speaker. Simply stated, it is the point at which the weight of the moving parts of the speaker becomes balanced with the force of the speaker suspension when in motion. If you've ever seen a piece of string start humming uncontrollably in the wind, you have seen the effect of reaching a resonant frequency. It is important to know this information so that you can prevent your enclosure from 'ringing'. With a loudspeaker, the mass of the moving parts, and the stiffness of the suspension (surround and spider) are the key elements that affect the resonant frequency. As a general rule of thumb, a lower Fs indicates a woofer that would be better for low-frequency reproduction than a woofer with a higher Fs. This is not always the case though, because other parameters affect the ultimate performance as well."

The other one I'm familiar with is the efficiency rating "SPL of XX.X @ 1 watt". This is what determines the volume level you will get from a speaker. Since it takes double the power to increase the SPL by 3db. So if you wanted to hit 110db with a 89db @ 1 watt speaker, you'd need to double the power 7 times or 128 watts. It's not quite this simple of course, but it should give you a general idea.


The Shiva for example has a lower Fs than the AV-15H (19.6 vs 22), but the AV-15H is significantly more efficient (86db vs 90.7db) or in other words the AV-15H needs about 1/3rd the power to hit the same SPLs as the Shiva. So the Shiva will go lower, but the AV will make you feel it more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TPnBobcats /forum/post/16877998


Found what look like good explanations of those parameters here.




The other one I'm familiar with is the efficiency rating "SPL of XX.X @ 1 watt". This is what determines the volume level you will get from a speaker. Since it takes double the power to increase the SPL by 3db. So if you wanted to hit 110db with a 89db @ 1 watt speaker, you'd need to double the power 7 times or 128 watts. It's not quite this simple of course, but it should give you a general idea.


The Shiva for example has a lower Fs than the AV-15H (19.6 vs 22), but the AV-15H is significantly more efficient (86db vs 90.7db) or in other words the AV-15H needs about 1/3rd the power to hit the same SPLs as the Shiva. So the Shiva will go lower, but the AV will make you feel it more.

Thanks. So basically I'm looking for something with a Qts of 0.4-0.7 for sealed (not a requirement since some drivers are just good in general), with the lowest FS and a fairly high efficiency! Basically the perfect driver, haha.


Does anyone have other recommendations on good drivers? The shiva is top on my list since it hits the lowest. Something that has equally low FS, but maybe a bit more power. I can also go to 15" if necessary.
Do you have a set budget and box size limits, like actual HxWxD you cant go bigger then? There are so many options out there knowing what you can afford, and live with will help narrow it down a little. Something else to consider with the higher end large woofers, if you aren't supplying them with plenty of power they aren't really worth the money you just spent over cheaper woofers.


Anyway, the CSS SDX15 powered by the EP2000 would make a great sealed sub
If you want really deep extension with lots of output on your budget, consider a ported design. Sealed designs can do both, but at the cost of more amplifier power and eQ. The Oaudio amp you mentioned works well with the Shiva in a sealed alignment and offers a selectable HP filter with boost and tunable parametric eQ to tame that nasty first room mode. I'm sure you read about them but it's that first boosted freqency brought on by the dimesnions of the room. The Oaudio PeQ is only single band, but does a good job at smoothing the response. The Oaudio website shows the effect in several easy to interpret graphs. Given your budget, i would suggest 2 seperate enclosures each with a single Shiva and Oaudio500 amp. That bumps your budget a little, but well worth the performance gains as two subs will have a much smoother in room response than one if placement is carefully chosen.


As others have mentioned, you could build a large ported enclosure and still get deep extension and output at the cost of a large enclosure and high group delay. The Oaudio amps aren't suitable for this type of alignment as the have a boost function which will produce an exaggerated hump in the frequency response and may force the driver past it's maximum excursion.


Something to consider....Small rooms natuarlly amplify the lower octaves through room gain. In certain circumstances a ported alignment may have 'too much' output and sound unnatural or bloated dependant on the amount of available gain. It's not unheard of for a room to amplify frequencies below 30hz as much as 10db so consider the size of the space before choosing ported over sealed. Another consideration is the output rolloff below tuning freq. While a ported alignment has more output than sealed to it's tuning point, all bets are pff after that. Combine the natural rolloff below tune and an appropriate high pass/subsonic filter don't expect much output below tune. With a properly designed sealed ssystem, the driver will go on producing output at a lower volume of course all the way to either the HP filter point or below if one isn't used. Some will argue that it's negligable output BUT given a small room with gain, it becomes valuable and when multiple units are used the results are spectacular with usable extension to 10hz in some cases. Take the ShivaX in 2.5cuft sealed for example. A single unit with 500w and the HP filter selected to 12hz and a small room room with typical gain of 6-8db, a solid output of 106db at 15hz can be expected, add three db more for a pair. The size of your space will determine actual results, which i didn't see posted.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16878456


Do you have a set budget and box size limits, like actual HxWxD you cant go bigger then? There are so many options out there knowing what you can afford, and live with will help narrow it down a little. Something else to consider with the higher end large woofers, if you aren't supplying them with plenty of power they aren't really worth the money you just spent over cheaper woofers.


Anyway, the CSS SDX15 powered by the EP2000 would make a great sealed sub

I've got my eyes on this setup too, the EP200 seems to give the most power for the price. But a SHIVA / with the Oaudio amp I posted is pretty close too.

Css driver does look very nice though.


There's technically no limit to the box size I can use. But, I'd just like it to be average, if that makes any sense. Nothing huge, just what a normal sub size would be for the driver being used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 /forum/post/16878491


If you want really deep extension with lots of output on your budget, consider a ported design. Sealed designs can do both, but at the cost of more amplifier power and eQ. The Oaudio amp you mentioned works well with the Shiva in a sealed alignment and offers a selectable HP filter with boost and tunable parametric eQ to tame that nasty first room mode. I'm sure you read about them but it's that first boosted freqency brought on by the dimesnions of the room. The Oaudio PeQ is only single band, but does a good job at smoothing the response. The Oaudio website shows the effect in several easy to interpret graphs. Given your budget, i would suggest 2 seperate enclosures each with a single Shiva and Oaudio500 amp. That bumps your budget a little, but well worth the performance gains as two subs will have a much smoother in room response than one if placement is carefully chosen.


As others have mentioned, you could build a large ported enclosure and still get deep extension and output at the cost of a large enclosure and high group delay. The Oaudio amps aren't suitable for this type of alignment as the have a boost function which will produce an exaggerated hump in the frequency response and may force the driver past it's maximum excursion.


Something to consider....Small rooms natuarlly amplify the lower octaves through room gain. In certain circumstances a ported alignment may have 'too much' output and sound unnatural or bloated dependant on the amount of available gain. It's not unheard of for a room to amplify frequencies below 30hz as much as 10db so consider the size of the space before choosing ported over sealed. Another consideration is the output rolloff below tuning freq. While a ported alignment has more output than sealed to it's tuning point, all bets are pff after that. Combine the natural rolloff below tune and an appropriate high pass/subsonic filter don't expect much output below tune. With a properly designed sealed ssystem, the driver will go on producing output at a lower volume of course all the way to either the HP filter point or below if one isn't used. Some will argue that it's negligable output BUT given a small room with gain, it becomes valuable and when multiple units are used the results are spectacular with usable extension to 10hz in some cases. Take the ShivaX in 2.5cuft sealed for example. A single unit with 500w and the HP filter selected to 12hz and a small room room with typical gain of 6-8db, a solid output of 106db at 15hz can be expected, add three db more for a pair. The size of your space will determine actual results, which i didn't see posted.

I've got the basic idea about sealed vrs ported. My room isn't very large so I don't really need EXTREME output that ported will provide me. Plus like you said, smaller rooms will have more lower end gain.


I would estimate around 12 feet by 20 feet, maybe a little larger. I do plan on moving the sub into a larger room someday, or keeping it for as long as it lasts.


My budget I listed as around $500-$700.


So what you're saying is the Oaudio amp and Shiva is a good combination for a single sealed sub? I didn't know it included a HP filter too, if it has both that and the EQ then I'm golden, haha. 106db at 15hz sounds fantastic as well.
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As you might be realizing, your options can be numerous, here's another idea I like
For sealed box bass extension the Dayton RSS390HF-4 is one of the best, your budget would allow for two of them. You could do a "dual drive" setup with a pair of 24" cubes each getting 500W from the EP2000. Stacking them for one impossing sub, or placing them in various spots to even room modes. Versatility and 107 db at 15hz before room gain, though you could bottom the drivers down low with full power.
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if you want an amp, enclosure, eq, and driver, that is easy enough. go here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1104368


find some builds that you like. see what components they use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/16878966


if you want an amp, enclosure, eq, and driver, that is easy enough. go here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1104368


find some builds that you like. see what components they use.

Thanks, I looked at a few of the 12/15" builds with various drivers. It's interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16878828


As you might be realizing, your options can be numerous, here's another idea I like
For sealed box bass extension the Dayton RSS390HF-4 is one of the best, your budget would allow for two of them. You could do a "dual drive" setup with a pair of 24" cubes each getting 500W from the EP2000. Stacking them for one impossing sub, or placing them in various spots to even room modes. Versatility and 107 db at 15hz before room gain, though you could bottom the drivers down low with full power.

I think I've narrowed it down to Either the Dayton RSS390HF-4 (speak of the devil because I look on parts express and just saw this before you posted) or the Shiva-x in a sealed 2.5cuft box with the Oaudio amp, as per Mayhem13's recommendations.


I'm still a bit confused about the EQ (I get the idea, you adjust the knobs based on the room to create a flat curve), or more specifically, how do you get a chart of Hz/dB. What programs, equipment is necessary to do this?


I'm a bit confused about the high and low pass filters too. If I do decide to go with the Oaudio amp does it include this? I thought crossing over your sub to 70-80hz was supposed to eliminate it from receiving anything else?


Also, making a 2.5cuft box out of 3/4 or 1" MDF is pretty simple, I would just have to have some sort of bracing. I have no idea which way I should brace a box to improve integrity and sound.


People still use that foam stuff to increase sound output, right? Also has anyone built a similar system with both the Dayton or the Shiva? The Dayton has higher wattage and lower Fs at a cheaper price. Everything else is roughly the same between the two (as far as I can see, aside from size).



Thanks again for all the answers and help. I'm trying to think of all the unknowns so I can do this right
.
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 http://www.linkwitzlab.com/


I did not think I needed to suggest the use of google to forum members.


Be forewarned, a lot of the "pro" amps have very noisy fans. For a first timer, I would recommend a plate amp. With a pro sound amp, you still need to add a crossover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrgeek /forum/post/16882265

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/


I did not think I needed to suggest the use of google to forum members.


Be forewarned, a lot of the "pro" amps have very noisy fans. For a first timer, I would recommend a plate amp. With a pro sound amp, you still need to add a crossover.

Haha, sorry, thanks for the link though. I read a good majority of the THOR section. The Peerless 830500 XLS 12" driver that he's using is actually on sale on parts express for $150 currently. It has a really low Fs as well, maybe this will go on my short list too, so many options. It's insane how much the curve changes after eq.


He is using a 1.8 cuft box in that build. Is there an average on what size is good for output / punchyness? 2.5 cuft was mentioned above as a good size.


I'll probably go with the amp from Oaudio since it's easier, and includes an eq. I don't feel like dropping $100 + shipping and exchange rates to Canada on a better eq currently.


If anyone else has any input to my previous questions, shoot away. I'm hoping for feedback about my enclosure from my uncle, then I can start buying things.
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