[vfrjim]

I have resorted to turning my Icemaker in my Freezer off during the day and only on over night because everytime it does it's thing (water solenoid start/stop, motor run to dump ice etc), I get interference in my HD signal, does not matter if I have 100% signal on a station, I still get break up for 1 to 5 seconds. I tried a surge protector on the freezer, but it did nothing (maybe a little less, but not much). Can anyone help?


Thanks,


Jim

 

[Les H]

Noise all the time or some of the time? At what times? On all channels or certain channels? Which channels?


The noise can be radiated through the power lines, in which case a noise suppressor on the fridge and/or TV set can help or eliminate it.


Or the noise can be radiated through the air to your antenna. You can move your antenna somewhere further away from the fridge. Are you sure your antenna connections are good, with all grounds making proper contact?


Or, you may have a motor on the ice maker that is improperly radiating Rf signals. If still under warranty, maybe you can get if fixed for free.


Les

 

[vfrjim]

Old fridge, so replacement is in the future, it happens on all HD channels (OTA), lower signal stations get effected more so then stronger signals. I am wondering what type and where to get noise filter that I can use on the fridge that may restrict this type of interference. It only happens when the cycles begin and end on the ice making process, especially when the water solenoid kicks in and off, this makes the picture totally freeze and become pixelated.

Antenna is pretty far away and all the antenna amps and such are on different circuits.


Jim

 

[shodoug]

I am guessing that your Refigerator shell is mainly metal. If it were getting a good ground, I would think that would shield the interference. Are you sure it is getting a good ground at the outlet, and that this ground is properly connected tot the shell of the refrigerator? I think they make a tester for this.


For noise through the power line, You might try checking to see if the circuits are on different phases. Maybe an extension cord to the HDTV receiver from an outlet that is on another phase would be the best way to test if this were the fix.


Kenmore parts are relatively easy to order. I don't know about your brand of fridge, but maybe changing the solenoid would be cheap/easy enough to give that a try?


Those are the first few things I would check, anyway.


Best Regards,

Doug

 

[R. Aster]

I am surprised to hear this. I was taught in physics class that RF signal strength (and therefore quality) varies with the square of the distance. You are now asserting it also varies with the cube...

 

[wjbjr]

Quote:

Originally posted by R. Aster I am surprised to hear this. I was taught in physics class that RF signal strength (and therefore quality) varies with the square of the distance. You are now asserting it also varies with the cube...

Interesting thought. But before inferring such an assertion one must remember that icemaker product is usually not cubical. As I recall, that was taught in Physics 101. Or was it in Modern Homemaking?

 

[bdfox18doe]

Buy bagged ice...

 

[Al K]

Over a year ago I was using an AC plug-in electrical drill near my HDTV. It blew my mind, but the drill caused the picture to pixelate and become unwatchable. I'm assumming that the problem was through the electrical wiring and not through the air as an RF problem. I bet your problem is power wiring as opposed to RF. Maybe you could use an extension cord and see if you can find an outlet on the opposite phase as suggested above.



Al Keown

 

[mcfoo]

A set of 4 ice trays costs $.97 at Big Lots...

 

[greywolf]

Quote:

Originally posted by Al K Over a year ago I was using an AC plug-in electrical drill near my HDTV. It blew my mind, but the drill caused the picture to pixelate and become unwatchable. I'm assumming that the problem was through the electrical wiring and not through the air as an RF problem. I bet your problem is power wiring as opposed to RF. Maybe you could use an extension cord and see if you can find an outlet on the opposite phase as suggested above. Al Keown

My bet is RF. Anything that sparks creates RF. Drill commutators, switches and solenoid contacts are prime suspects.

 

[vfrjim]

I will investigate a little more in this later this week and see if I can isolate it and report back with info, thanks for all suggestions.


Jim

 

[tveli]

same thing happens when my upstairs furnace fan starts - it's 5 feet from my yagi cm4248.

definitely disconnect the icemaker permanently.

maybe drink beer instead of mixed drinks, no ice required

 

[nakedeye]

im sorry to hear your troubles, but sit back and take a look at it for a second.



then laugh your ass off.



that should make you feel better

 

[shodoug]

Quote:

Originally posted by greywolf My bet is RF. Anything that sparks creates RF. Drill commutators, switches and solenoid contacts are prime suspects.

I tend to agree. But why wouldn't the metal box of the refrigerator shield this out? Maybe the doors aren't grounded, or the gap in the insulation is to blame? If so I would think the signal might be rather directional. I helb back the suggestion to rotate teh fridge, if possible, to see if this changed things, since most fridges are pretty well stuck in one spot, and this wouldn't be a solution anyway.


I agree with the other suggestion about buying ice. I did this at an apartment where my ice maker went out. Ice was much better and it probably did not cost much more anyway. Most people don't realize how much energy it takes to make ice. Key is to bring the bag home, put it in the freezer still in the bag,to refreeze solid and then drop it on the floor to break apart the cubes. Then dump into the ice tray or dispenser.


Good Luck,

Doug

 

[jckessler]

A metal box will not allow outside radiation in, but does nothing to prevent radiation from inside the box from getting out. Grounding has nothing to do with it. You can prove this with aluminum foil and walkie talkies. One wrapped in foil will be able to transmit but not receive.

 

[shodoug]

jckessler,


DOH!!! You are right.


Thanks,

Doug

 

[dmodemd]

I had a similar problem. I noticed on occasion a buzz come across the baby monitor and at the same time my HD picture freaks out. This would happen about every 90 secs. After awhile we found out this was occurring whenever the dryer was running! Its a very old model (22 years!). I dont know what it does every 90 seconds but it lasts for about 1-2 seconds.


We also get a lot of interference from general aviation - anyone have any info on why that is any any efforts to correct it?!


Lee

 

[greywolf]

Quote:

Originally posted by dmodemd We also get a lot of interference from general aviation - anyone have any info on why that is any any efforts to correct it?! Lee

Signal bouncing off aircraft or any other object is referred to as multipath. The reflected signal comes in out of phase with the main signal. Do a search on multipath. An antenna reaim, a more directional antenna, stacking antennas and waiting for a future STB chip that figures out multipath signals and properly combines them get mentioned often.

 

[kenglish]

You can install special "snubber" capacitors across the motors, solenoids, and switch contacts in the icemaker. These might help. You might need to find a good appliance repair shop to do this, if you don't want to DIY.


Also, there may just be a problem with some of the parts....a switch with worn contacts, a motor with bad brushes/contacts, etc. Have them check that, too.

 

[atdauph]

My PBS OTA signal distorts whenever my A/C kicks on or off, and get this; whenever I turn off/on my bathroom light.


I can stand there in the bathroom and switch the light off and on. As soon as I flip the switch, there's about a half second of pixelation and the sound stutters. Never fails. When I leave it alone, the picture is steady.


This has nothing to do with the electrical supply going to the HD receiver. This occurs because it's a low power digital signal that is easily disrupted by the brief RF noise generated by a mechanical switch.