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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting frustrated trying to dial in my Kuro 101. I have only done one successful white balance calibration in my life where everything just clicked into place perfectly with solid 100% readings from all three bars. I think it was a fluke because I haven't been able to reproduce that with my Kuro. For starters, the levels in Calman fluctuate so wildly at times that it is hard to see the immediate effect of fine adjustments. One color channel will just spike out of nowhere and then you have to wait for them to settle and balance out. Then after an hour of tweaking I will think I have it set correctly, but lo and behold "Yellow Tinge!". Then I go back into Calman to check the reading, and the levels are slightly out of whack all of a sudden.


How is everyone else adjusting their cuts and drives? dark first, then bright? 20/70 or 30/80 IRE? I would to know a trick to getting ruler flat levels like some others have. I am using the Chroma 5 with Calman 3.7 (set on 'Plasma' and 2.2 gamma), completely dark room, chroma hanging an inch or so from the screen.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I replied to your other post.. take a look

 

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"Chroma hanging an inch or so from the screen..."

That explains the problem if it is really hanging as you describe. The C5 is "floating" and probably rotating. It needs to be mounted securely, at the same non changing angle the entire session. It can either be in contact with the screen or tripod mounted.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by azmodien
I am getting frustrated trying to dial in my Kuro 101. I have only done one successful white balance calibration in my life where everything just clicked into place perfectly with solid 100% readings from all three bars. I think it was a fluke because I haven't been able to reproduce that with my Kuro. For starters, the levels in Calman fluctuate so wildly at times that it is hard to see the immediate effect of fine adjustments. One color channel will just spike out of nowhere and then you have to wait for them to settle and balance out. Then after an hour of tweaking I will think I have it set correctly, but lo and behold "Yellow Tinge!". Then I go back into Calman to check the reading, and the levels are slightly out of whack all of a sudden.


How is everyone else adjusting their cuts and drives? dark first, then bright? 20/70 or 30/80 IRE? I would to know a trick to getting ruler flat levels like some others have. I am using the Chroma 5 with Calman 3.7 (set on 'Plasma' and 2.2 gamma), completely dark room, chroma hanging an inch or so from the screen.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same model monitor as you. Dial in 80% and then 30%. Then do a complete read. Adjusting the highs will have an effect on the lows and vice versa. In order to get a flat greyscale from 10% up I a started leaving 80% one click high for red so that I could dial in the low all the way to 10% without messing up the high end. Using my I1 Pro this method works me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayjr /forum/post/19636966


Attach the meter to the screen with the suction cup head...should help out a lot.


RayJr

Someone told me not to do this because the heat from the panel would cause the probe to read inaccurately.
 

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if you have complete ambient light control in your room during calibration it should be fine but I'd also snug a Chroma 5 on the Pioneer. I suggest using a tripod mount for the Chroma 5.
 

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hmmmmm, been calibrating PZ85 plasmas at work with the suction cup, no tripod and they have been fine...but you make a good point...do the tripod...you have to get that thing stable for accurate readings....
 
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