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My New Mains.

1068 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Wildcard26
Well I have been working on these for a while. Lost the WiniISD files in a computer crash too. The woofers modeled well. They were on buy-out from PE. I was going for the Dayton 6.5" drivers but they did not model well. The Customer Service rep I contacted about these said that they may be AR drivers but he cannot say for certain. I didn't really care though. The mid and tweeters are Phillips drivers that are a little more than 26 Years old ( I have spares too). They were given to me by my Dad. These play really smooth and I like the sound, no parameters though.

The enclosure is 44" H x 16" D x 9" W. The port is a 4" flared port on one end at 10" long bringing the tuning to 30 Hz. Tested them a little after I finished, the crossover points I can't remember right now but they are old pre fabs with the points I want anyways until I decide differently going to build new one some time. The legs are the ones I posted about here too. Yup, broke one already but they work out nicely any ways. They sounded really bright and present got to do some re arranging and resetting the system. The Frame for the covers are yet to come.

Without further adieu.

My New Mains



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Your really going to enjoy those expecially since the drivers were your Dad's, that's pretty cool! You already broke a foot? I wonder if you remove the spikes but still keep the main feet if that will help. Thats gonna be my plan, time will tell! Thanks for the post.
Ohh, those do look like the AR woofers used in their lastest AR1's, AR3's ect.. from about 10 or so years ago.
Hi Wildcard26,

I like the color on the veneer. Do you have any pictures of the sides directly?

How long did the project take you?

I like the look of those buyout woofers too!

Congrats on finishing
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That port looks huge on those. I like the veneer also. The baffles look like they could have used another sanding or two with a coat over them, but it's never too late for anything in DIY in case that bothers you. Or just get some slick covers.
@ blktre..Broke one of the legs trying to move the box and it slipped from my hand from a short distance. Didn't break it clean off. I just exchanged it with one from the back that would put the pressure on the opposite side of the broken leg and there is less weight on the back anyways.

@ fronn...I used PE Veneer Laminate. Nice product for the price and it works well. It this Red Maple http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=261-620 . Design stages took longest actually. I messed with some other 6.5" drivers but I did not like the model I got. I let a cabinet maker materialize my designs as I do not have the tools, time or space. I got all of the components together before they were done so it was just to put everything together. Thanks for the comment.

@ AlexE...The port was not actually necessary to be that big. 4" was needed but went with the flare for aesthetics, not much effect and they would not be crossed lower than 50 Hz anyways. Where I live I have to use a skybox service to ship things in, some of the components were taking up to a certain amount so I just went on and bought these as it won't make a difference any ways. The front is actually I cheaper Vinyl Laminate I got locally. They are thin as hell with a kind of rough finish. They look worse in the picture actually. The are not that bad but trouble some to work around due to how soft they were. Covers are in the works because I have a rugrat and one on the way. Thank you for your comments also. I really appreciate it.

I really appreciate all of your comments as you all are some of the best at this so it's like a stamp of approval.
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What are these boxes supposed to be tuned to? That port looks awfully short for it's size...
Tuned to 30 Hz, they are 10" Long box depth is 16". Running them small at 50 Hz from receiver.
Those mids sure use a lot of screws. Must be some serious BL on those puppies! :p

Wild, I know what you mean about 'on camera' - especially with flash, they tend to go right through make up (on women, used to be a photographer) as well as a lot of other finishes - revealing imperfections that are not seen with the naked eye in regular light. Try turning the flash off and using a lot of steady ambient light. You will need a tripod, stack of books or at the very least a monopod and steady hands because the exposure time will be longer without flash, turning any camera movement into blurr. Anyway, we (you and I) get the idea - just not everyone understands so for future projects when you want to present them as close to real life as possible it's a good idea to use a soft box or some lamps with paper in front of the bulb, etc.

Ps. jst a suggestion.. I hope I dont come off as a negative nancy... I worry about speaking my mind here now, because of another thread currently 'in progress' :X
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No buddy, I like you suggestion. Especially from someone who knows more than I do. Thanks for the info. As under my nic says "Learning Till I die" so what you tell me can only benefit me. Cheers.

The mids actually use four screws the other four are what holds the back enclosure that were made for them by the manufacturer.

Did some tests today, moved them into place, had to lower the high tone control a bit, decided on an 80 Hz Xover setting sounded better there. 100 Hz was not bad either but my subs overwhelmed everything else.

Decided to call them The Minions...Here they are in place.

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