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Discussion Starter #21

Quote:
Originally Posted by draganm /forum/post/15720004


only if you keep working on it

Haha, well I thought several times seriously about sending this PJ to a professional for repair. But shipping and Import/export formalities alone would cost me about 1800$. (half what I paid for the PJ!). Add in repair/parts costs and I might be better of buying a 3rd PJ



Anyways, there are 3 last stuff I would like to do before declaring defeat:

Swapping: HVPS/LVPS/Main board. The LVPS is not showing any light on the front LED but it can still be damaged I guess.
 

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You had an HV leak that maybe took out a board like the HDM or A VNB. You need to isolate that HV leak first. you said it was on the green housing, disconectt he HV lead from the Green and try to fire it up, look to make sure the H-fail isnt on, but it could still be that board. try another HDM witht he green no connected to the HV. f it works then you need to replace that Greens HV lead, try looking close for any cracks in the wire a small pin hole will do it.


Athaansios
 

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Discussion Starter #23

Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 /forum/post/15722814


You had an HV leak that maybe took out a board like the HDM or A VNB. You need to isolate that HV leak first. you said it was on the green housing, disconectt he HV lead from the Green and try to fire it up, look to make sure the H-fail isnt on, but it could still be that board. try another HDM witht he green no connected to the HV. f it works then you need to replace that Greens HV lead, try looking close for any cracks in the wire a small pin hole will do it.


Athaansios

With only the blue gun connected, I replaced the HDM with an old one I have. When I turned the PJ on, the light on the back of the tube (on the neck) get stronger but still no picture on the tube face.... (Note: I am not sure my old HDM works anyways so take this with grain of salt). Anyways, I also replaced today the motherboard beneath the tubes. And now I got a Vertical/Horizontal LED error lit on the CLM. And the fun continue....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 /forum/post/15722814


f it works then you need to replace that Greens HV lead,

yup, almost certainly the leak is at the anode lead. The old style leads with the loose fitting boot are awful. you can repair them sometimes by cleaning really well with Alchohol and Q-tip, then filling all the gaps with Black RTV but it doesn't always fix them.

I have enough of the newer leads here that when I see a tube with the old ****** wires I just replace it right away.
 

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Any updates?


Nashou
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE_COW_IS_OK /forum/post/15769576


Haha, yeah. AWB ready and PJ chassis going to curt


AWB? Whats that?


Athanasios
 

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Discussion Starter #29
guys, my marquee returned from repair and am facing new issues.

The horizontal dynamic convergence on the blue tube is not working properly. I can move the raster all over the blue tube from help/alignment setup. I can also properly adjust the dynamic convergence vertically but when I try to move it left/right in convergence menu, I get the green crosshatch moving instead of the blue one and in opposite direction of my arrows! Displacement is seriously limited as well especially off center. any idea how to fix this?


Tkx, Sam.
 

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Just catching up on emails this week, I'll respond there as well, but from the sounds of it, you either have your H deflection yoke connectors plugged into the wrong HDM cables, or you've reversed the convergence yoke cables between tubes. I've done that here as well, spend hours the first time trying to 'repair' a problem that wasn't there.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks curt, I double checked my connection and they are k.

Should I take out the blue tube and check the yokes placement?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Nevermind problem fixed by swapping convergence board



my 9500LC is alive again! (after a year downtime).

I worked on setting things up and found out surprisingly that my H10L lenses have much better focus on center then HD10F. Also found out a lot of variation in performance between lenses of the same model.....



Also wanted to thank all those who helped me through this in this thread!
 

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That convergence board worked here. If you want to pull it off the heatsink and send me the PC board, I'll repair it at no charge.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE_COW_IS_OK /forum/post/16312074


Also found out a lot of variation in performance between lenses of the same model.....

I would double check Schemphlug and make sure it's correct.

Congrats on getting it running, everyone loves a happy ending
 

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Discussion Starter #35

Quote:
Originally Posted by draganm /forum/post/16314805


I would double check Schemphlug and make sure it's correct.

Congrats on getting it running, everyone loves a happy ending

This variation among same model reminds me of when I was searching for a L pro serie lenses for my canon SLR. I swapped 3 lenses before I had an excellent one! and differences in performance were not subtle.

Doubt Schemphlug is an issue since it was adjusted and differences are for the center of my screen and not sides. I will take screenshot showing differences at center between 10F/10L Lenses. Differences "might" be because each model have a certain focal plane distance sweet spot and I had my 10L on it. Both have same throw between... Anyways I am very happy with my old HD10L (clear 1080p desktop text) and the 10F are sitting in the corner of my kitchen
. (To be fair, the 10F had better corner focus, but since center is much more important(knowing eye center acuity, their kitchen place is justified!)


Curt,


Thanks, I ll do just that. By the way, I think my PJ is really cursed now since yesterday after finishing all convergence and color calibration and placing it on the ceiling, 1 hour later while watching movies, I hear a little noise and blue doesn't focus anymore
. This is a brief history of my 1 year struggle with the PJ:


1-Glycol Leak. Repaired then

4-Brocken red tube. Swapped then

2-Green HV Arcing. Repaired then

3-HVPS failure, HDM failure(Twice!). Repaired then

5-Bright Green window on the tube. Repaired by swapping the VIM then

6-Bad blue convergence. Convergence Board swapped.

7-Gobal blue defocus. Repair under way.................


I think the year didn't end yet... CRT is not for the faint heart
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE_COW_IS_OK /forum/post/16316911


This is a brief history of my 1 year struggle with the PJ:

1-Glycol Leak. Repaired then

4-Brocken red tube. Swapped then

2-Green HV Arcing. Repaired then

3-HVPS failure, HDM failure(Twice!). Repaired then

5-Bright Green window on the tube. Repaired by swapping the VIM then

6-Bad blue convergence. Convergence Board swapped.

7-Gobal blue defocus. Repair under way.................

I am amazed you have the determination to stick with a machine like that? I love the Marquee's but i've never seen a machine with so many problems before
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 /forum/post/15676994


Wait, those are MP modded VNB's.



Can you look closely at the RED VNB and see if it has a hole in the same place that the white G2 wires is conected on the Green and bleu. The red is conected into the "KEY" part of the Tube. Or take a close up of the red VNB at a nice straight on angle so we can get a look at all the pin placements.

the blue and green could also be LUG's.


it also looks like the Green VNB cage is grounded to the Ground wire from the VDM and covered with black electrical tape? why?

I would make sure the ground wire from the VDM is a straight line to the chassis and the Green braided cable goes to the rear heat sink when its in the closed posistion.


Also connect the black flat ground wire back onto the raised ground connector on the VNB like the green and blues.


it also looks like the VDM and SWA board have been cap upgraded, I wonder why the CVA wasn't done? that one shows the most improvement in performance on a marquee.


I was going to say swap out the VNB's but you cant do that if the red is different, you said you have another marquee? If those VNB's are like the reds

with no hole in it for the G2 line then swap one of those out. the OVER-I circuit on the VNB might be triping the blanking circuit possibly. I forgot if it just shuts of HV or brings the +/-85 line to full 85 to blank out the tube.

I bet its the red VNB though since you said the G?B light up when the HV lead for the red is pulled out.


Curt could help more than I though....


Athanasios

Athanasios, do you replace the caps on the VDM, SWA, and CVA with like value and voltage caps, or do you use caps with a higher voltage? I have a high hour (13K), retubed Marquee 8000 that I'm whipping into shape. The previous owner spent some cash putting in brand new tubes, but didn't bother to refurbish the boards!


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky015 /forum/post/16319745


I have a high hour (13K), retubed Marquee 8000 that I'm whipping into shape. The previous owner spent some cash putting in brand new tubes, but didn't bother to refurbish the boards!

Thanks!

IMO it's really not worth putting that kind of time and money into an 8000. find your self an 8110 or 8500 and swap those tubes right over. Then the board work really pay's off
 

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When it comes to swapping caps you should try and stay close to the original voltage value, as for the capacitance value you can increase somewhat depending on where in the circuit it is. Increasing the voltage rating does nothing to prolong its life providing the cap was spec'd correctly in the first place. Actually using a voltage rating too high won't allow tha cap to work like it should as the dielectric doesn't form properly when powered up.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTS /forum/post/16320110


When it comes to swapping caps you should try and stay close to the original voltage value, as for the capacitance value you can increase somewhat depending on where in the circuit it is. Increasing the voltage rating does nothing to prolong its life providing the cap was spec'd correctly in the first place. Actually using a voltage rating too high won't allow tha cap to work like it should as the dielectric doesn't form properly when powered up.

Really I always thought it was afe to go up in voltage as this is what many of Mike's mods do. Also i have not seen any adverse affects in keeping the same value uf and going up tot he next voltage. Higher voltage caps mostly have higher ripple current ratings and sometime lower esr's.


On the CVA the main caps on older boards were of larger voltage ratings and those CVA's had less failures while the newer boards with a lower voltage rating cap fail more offten.. Right Dragnm.. We have both seen this

on the Marquee. And from my scoping the CVA board the noise level on the

convergence circuit has gone down some compared to a stock board.



Can you Explain why?


Athanasios
 
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