[Steve Bruzonsky]

OK. Here's my take on the Pronto Pro. For now.


Hey, I had the Creston 1500C touchpanel for say three years. But I never really used it. Never really got it programmed how I like it, my way.

Never liked the fact that I really could't program it myself, despite Crestron's initial advertising on the new model making it sound so simple. It wasn't. I had a web home theater install friend program it for me at a fair discounted price - but frankly, I still didn't care for how it worked.

I really needed to be able to do it my way.

And frankly, I didn't care for its size, I like the sexy feel of holding a remote within my hand! So I lost thousands on that one! And I don't miss it.


But I think I'm really liking my Pronto Pro.

I am getting close to actually ditching all the remotes I know and luv and getting out of remote control hell. But when you're ADDICTED to multiple remotes it takes time to wean off them. I think I'm almost there.


Anyway, I'll be giving my Pronto Pro story in segments. And I'll even be asking for help sometimes from forum members. PLEASE!!!

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I really like the size and feel of the Pronto Pro. If feels like just the right size in my hand, not too big, not too small. Just right. I like the colors. Finally I discovered the "Contrast" switch at the side left, and I like the setting a bit below middle, as I like having a colored background just a tad dark to the brighter buttons. I like using the "ph_2default" pattern with a grey button, a medium blue button outline, but I change the print from blue to black, and I change the white background, behind the buttons, to varying medium to dark colors, one background color per each component.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

WARNING! The Pronto Pro Edit software, which you can download from www.remotecentral.com , which you can use to seriously edit your CCF file, is not "officially" supported by Phillips. Why? Because it has its share of bugs, that's why.


But I have learned some things the hard way which have pretty much got rid of the buggies at least for me:


1. Stick to the sample CCFs in the software.

Stick to the buttons that come in the software.

Drag and drop to create new buttons from existing buttons in the same component you are dragging to.

This seems to avoid buggies, like remote codes disappearing, etc. Just seems that things have gone much more smoothly as I've done it this way.

And I like the buttons in the sample CCFs, anyway.


2. If you want to add a component created by someone else, their CCF that you've downloaded,

modify their CCF so it only has that component in it, and then "Merge" that CCF with your existing CCF for your files. However, since there are hardly any Pronto Pro CCFs out their, but pretty much all Pronto (not Pro), you are still asking for buggies. Better to simply copy that component CCF style onto a new component CCF that was already in the sample CCF, to again avoid more chance of buggies.


3. Nick made me a "Home" panel with pictures of my components to click on. Pretty neat. But I feel for now its sort of cluttered that way, I put the pictures of each component into their component CCF panels instead for now, and I think I'm gonna leave my main "Home" panel simply as a brief name of the component in the button - easier to see more components at once that way and click on the one I want.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I like to do some editing on the computer in Pronto Pro Edit, then download to the Pronto Pro,

then do some remote control code learning on the Pronto Pro, and then upload it back to the computer for more computerized editing. But

before I started doing the above steps, the downloading and uploading was very, very problematic and frustrating. Now its easy.


However, seemed that on occassion, a learned code code vanish. Seems best to me to edit each button to insert the actual RC5 code if you know it, especially if I'm programming in Pronto Pro Edit for a button to do multiple button functions and delays.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

Ah - I figured out how to do the RC5 code!!!!


In Pronto Pro Edit,


You click twice on the button for "Button Properties"


Then click on "Action" to the very left


Then click on "Set IR"


Then click on "Advanced"


Then select by clicking "RC5"


Then enter under "System" the number

and enter under "Command" the number for

the component's function.



At another Pronto thread here at this forum, someone explained how to use the Windows calculator to translate the hex code listed in the

Theta CB2 manual, Appendix C, to "RC5" code.

Sorry, I tried it, it didn't work. Would you like to give us instructions how to do this again, and please try it yourself first, then do step-by-step. Thanks.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I already figured out the RC5 codes for the Theta Casablanca 2, but only because several friends e-mailed me their Pronto CCF and I found in some of the buttons that they had listed the RC5 codes.

Much of the time they simply used the learning function, so the "Action" submenu would only show "Learned". But here's the RC5 codes for the CB2, which I've tested, and they work!


For all functions, the System code is "16".


For the following functions, the Command code follows the name of the function:


Button Command Code

1 1

2 2

3 3

4 4

5 5

6 6

A/D 7

Mute 8

Mode 9

Tape Out 10

Setup 11

Balance 12

Display 13

Power 14

Up (level/volume) 15

Down (level/volume) 16

Remote (power) 17

Status 18

Left (level) 19

Right (level) 20

Phase 21

Select Up 22

Select Down 23

EQ* 24

Discrete Off 25

Discrete On 26


*This is reserved for a possible future digital

equalization card not available now.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I did some monkeying around and determined that the Pronto Pro does come preprogrammed for both Theta Voyager DVD/LD/CD and Theta David DVD/CD,

provided you change the brand for DVD function to Theta. It will not work otherwise. I tried the four Pioneer codes, as my Voyager is based on a Pioneer platform, but they didn't work properly.

I also downloaded some Pioneer DVD/LD/CD combo player CCFs and they didn't work, either. Of course, you can always program the Voyager by using the learning remote function, too.


Theta provided me with per function for the Voyager, the following numbered/lettered info, here for the example of the function "Reverse"


Argument 1 / 2/ 3 IR Code Equiv

Byte 1/ 2/ 3


Reverse 0/0/0 D9h /--/--


How do we transfer this into RC5 codes, anyone?


I have this info for all the Voyager buttons.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

As to my Dwin HD-700 and Transcanner 2, so far I simply programmed in using the remote learning function. I don't have discrete on/off codes for the Transcanner 2 and I wish I did! Both units have 232 codes - can these be translated to RC5 or other format for the Pronto Pro?


The Pronto Pro, in addition to RC5 codes, also has codes for RC6 mode 0, RC6 mode 6A, and RC5x.

What are these???

 

[Mark Seaton]

Hey Steve,


I see you are having some fun going through the learning curve of the remote. I myself have only programmed a handful of the 'Pro versions now, and while I've been finding some quirks here and there, after making sure I had the Version 3.3 from Remote Central, things have been working reasonably well. I haven't had any problem with the conversions myself from monochrome Pronto variant ccfs.


The biggest PITA that I've encountered is finding a good use of the colors available for buttons. The black buttons I had from my monochrome ccfs placed on the paper white background are still much easier to read and cleaner than any use of color button's I've seen as of yet. I'm thinking I'll have to hit up some of my art designer friends to make a few buttons for me to play with.


I do find it amusing that you are finally realizing what I was preaching in your first thread about the layout of the remote. After a while, pretty pictures loose their wow factor and start getting in the way of a clean and simple layout. The colorful icons are great for DSS channel guides and other places where you can make the graphic MEAN something, but let's face it, operation is key, and the color screen makes it MUCH easier to read than the monochrome. The biggest hurdle is to resist the feeling that you HAVE to use all the colors available.


As for the RS-232 commands, those require a device which can output those commands, as they are an electrical signal which comes in via a serial cable connection. There may be some other way we can get it to come on, or as a last resort there are a couple of IR controlled or 12V triggered devices which can output RS-232 commands. Of course just placing the power button for each device in convenient locations can work as well.


As for the hex code conversions, Excel makes it pretty straightforeward. Of course it's not all that difficult to do once you write out the conversion. I forget offhand if the command inputs for the ProntoEdit software need to be in hex or in standard decimal form without going back and checking. Did the Casablanca codes you listed work as described? particularly the commands with a value of 10 or greater?


If I get a chance I'll post a shot of a very simple home page I used in a recent system.


Mark Seaton

 

[Leroy_Haynes]

EQ* 24

Discrete Off 25

Discrete On 26


*This is reserved for a possible future digital

equalization card not available now. [/b][/quote]


Steve,


This is some awesome news. I know we traded emails awhile back and I'm glad to see you're having some succes with the Pronto. My question for you specifically is this, what would a digital equalization card do? Are you talking about room correction or am I way off base. Thanks as always for making this my favorite hangout on the Forum.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

Mark, the RC5 codes I listed for the Casablanca 2 all work perfect for Infrared!!!


Leroy, the digital equalization card would be room correction. Several years ago Theta talked about doing a Z-Systems card for the Casablanca. But I think this has been shelved, or not developed enough, as Theta hasn't said anything about this in a very long time. Also, frankly, where would you put it - there really isn't any room within the CB2 for a large card of this sort right now.

Remember, this "EQ" feature was reserved I'm sure when the Casablanca first came out, now over four years ago.


Mark is so right about the need for a clean and simple layout. It just makes it so much easier.

I would rather put less buttons per page, and just hit the "Up" or "Down" button of the Pronto Pro to quickly turn the page, than clutter too many buttons. Some folks have made nice CCFs with their own buttons at the bottom of the page (and borders around the page) to flip to different pages. Really neat looking. But you know what - the buttons and print are real small and tough to read, and the borders take up needed panel space, so I deleted to not use them. I decided to go as Mark said to a cleaner simpler layout!!!

Of course, this is subjective, and I appreciate folks e-mailing me their CCFs and of course each of us must decide what works best for ourselves.

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

The Pronto Pro also has an option for a separate small RF (radio frequency) module. This module plugs into a wall outlet. You can set each component in your CCF to accept either IR or RF

(IR is default). The RF module only receives the RF signals, converts them to IR, and sends them onto your components, whether through the air, or by a thin cable which you stick to the component front wherein the IR signal is received. It comes with four cables each with connections for two components each.


In playing with the RF module, I have found it be pretty directional - if I aim too far away, the signal doesn't go through.


The manual states that the IR signal from the RF module only goes about fifteen feet.


The RF module turned out to be of very limited application for me. I tried mounting it on top of my Dwin CRT projector aimed towards the equipment racks, as then I'd use the cable to connect it to the IR window of my CRT projector - but the IR signal from the module wouldn't reach enough downhill to my equipment racks.


I tried mounting it on my Billy Bags DVD & CD racks at the other side of the room, aimed at the equipment racks - nothing again.


And frankly, I really don't want to use the cables if I don't have too, reminds me of partial spiderwebs hanging at my equipment racks, as they are open and exposed and not behind doors.


But the RF module did come in handy, because

from my normal seating position, its iffy using the Pronto Pro in IR for me to reliably control my Dwin CRT projector. Without the Pronto Pro, I simply use my remote control and aim it to bounce off my screen, back to the projector, and this works fine. I set the module on top of the marble slab on top of my center Vandersteen 2Wq subwoofer, using wide black fabric tape to attach a rubber stopper underneath to aim it up at the projector. It works great. (Since the Aerial subs do my LFE, not the Vandy subs, I haven't heard any shake, rattle and roll yet from the RF module, but if I do, I'm sure I can then rig up some foam to dampen it.)


So I have all my components set to default IR, except the projector is set at RF.

 

[fitsman]

"I'm thinking I'll have to hit up some of my art designer friends to make a few buttons for me to play with. "


You can do what I did. I just searched for buttons on the web and converted them to 256 color bit maps. You can use any graphic you see on the web. If you really want to get fancy you can alter it and have one for inactive and for active state so it has some animation to it when you press it.


I download some and created my own gallery of color buttons so I can drag and drop them on my screens.

 

[Mark Seaton]

fitsman,


I do have many different buttons from the standard ProntoEdit, but I haven't really played enough to find any combinations which offer much improvement in visibility over white type on black buttons. I do like your idea to change the "active" color of the button, to help with confimation of a press, good idea. I guess my main beef is to actually find a beneficial use of the colors on the buttons rather than just using color because it's there. No one misunderstand me, the color screen is MUCH easier to read, and worth it for anyone who is more concerned about ability to read and use the remote over the final price.


Mark Seaton

Sound Physics Labs, Inc.

ServoDrive

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

Up above I posted some IR code info from a manual for my Theta Voyager DVD\\LD\\CD player - it applies for the Theta David, too. Can anyone explain how to translate that IR code into RC5 code???

 

[uncle eric]

Steve,

I've just ordered a Pronto pro and I'm hoping to recieve it here in London in the next few days.

I understand it has most of the manufacturers codes built in. Did you see any codes for Barco?


My current pronto (bought in New York nearly 3 years ago) wont 'Learn' the Barco code.


Eric

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I don't think there's any Barco codes programmed in, I'm pretty sure about this. You should contact Barco and see if they may have RC5 codes, which I discuss in my Pronto Pro thread. Or possibly the new Pronto Pro model will learn the Barco. Go to www.remotecentral.com and read the full Pronto Pro review, and near the end there's a section of things to do when your remote won't learn, like turning off the lites. It worked for me!

 

[Steve Bruzonsky]

I don't think there's any Barco codes programmed in, I'm pretty sure about this. You should contact Barco and see if they may have RC5 codes, which I discuss in my Pronto Pro thread. Or possibly the new Pronto Pro model will learn the Barco. Go to www.remotecentral.com and read the full Pronto Pro review, and near the end there's a section of things to do when your remote won't learn, like turning off the lites. It worked for me!