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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well you cannot say that I did not tried to calibrate my Sanyo Z2000 with the Eye One Colormeter and thank God that I did not spend any more money on a upscale monitor, had problems from the get go even if I followed the Grayscale & Colour calibration for Dummies suppose that I need a super Dummies manual.


No matter what I tried was not able to get it right after, tries and tries and I thought that my occupation of reading and interpreting the Federal tax law and implementing the laws was hard, well this beats it my hats off to the members on this forum that have completed the calibration.


I am a persistent type of person and will try it again at a slower pace and see what happens, heck it is a step by step instruction how hard can it be???

well so far hard for me, any recommendations on other software???


Just thought that I would write this to let you know that for some of us Calibration Super Dummies are having a hard time on the other hand willing to bet that others have had the same experience that I had and decided on not to write about it.


The Eye One and the Grayscale & Colorur Calibration for Dummies appears to be an excellent tool for a layman to be able to calibrate his/her display.

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I don't understand. What's the problem?


You can't figure out the directions or the results are less than satisfactory to your eye?
 

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In its basic form you only have 3 steps.


After setting everything to default settings, pick Creative Cinema and set the color temperature to Low 2.


1. Adjust the brightness and contrast using the calibration disk. Cycle a few times to be sure you have the right settings because each controls the other a bit.


2. Read the grayscale using the meter pointed at the screen at two points (30% and 80%).


3. Adjust the grayscale using the primary color gains and cuts. If you have too much red for example, turn the red down 1/2 way and the green and blue up 1/3 way.


Repeat 2 and 3 until you are close to D65. Check #1 again and then repeat 2 and 3.



Once that is done you can be satisfied or if more adventuresome, move on to do more points, check the gamma and adjust the color/tint settings.


Which of those steps were hard to do?


If the problem is a washed out appearance or its too dim, then move to brilliant cinema, again low 2. You will have slightly too high D65 but almost double the light output and perhaps more satisfying.


Remember to save your new settings in the User area, otherwise your changes will be lost if you change modes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My problem is getting the arrow on the Target to the middle of it, I go left, right, up, down etc and cannot get it close to it, did read on one posting that this person had sucess with a large screen on setting the tripod 1 foot or 2 feet away from the screen, will try it and your suggestion on the easiest steps, brightness and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know but if I cant handled the Eye one, imagine what would the Spyder 3 would do as far as me calirating with it, suppose that is the same concept.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapper /forum/post/18135773


My problem is getting the arrow on the Target to the middle of it, I go left, right, up, down etc and cannot get it close to it, did read on one posting that this person had sucess with a large screen on setting the tripod 1 foot or 2 feet away from the screen, will try it and your suggestion on the easiest steps, brightness and so on.

Arrow on the target?? What software are you using?


You should be using ColorHCFR http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550
 

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zapper, I also have a z2000 and I'm very happy with my calibration. I have to admit that this was my first calibration and probably the hardest. I did a Panny 4000 PJ, a Hitachi PJ and a Samsung LCD TV and all those 3 were much easier.


I really suggest that you run the iris in fixed mode. dynamic Iris makes things worse. Also set the lamp mode to eco or full. No A1 or A2. Again it affects settings and it's very hard to calibrate.


This could make the blacks a bit washed out.

This also shows the true native contrast of the z2000!


When you get really use to it, go into the custom Gamma to adjust the greyscale points individually. Play only with the Red and Blue. Don't play with the Green.


Then you could get into the color management system and play only with the first 2 slide bars. Don't play with the 3rd one. Be very careful with this menu. If it makes things worse, just use the native color preset.


One last thing I notice when playing with the i1d2 is the fact that it asks for too much red (at least un my case). In my case, I can do an offset using an i1 Pro, so this way, when I calibrate with the D2, I don't have to pump red as much as before.


I spent about 3 months on this PJ!


Feel free to ask questions


Pitou!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitou /forum/post/18138465


zapper, I also have a z2000 and I'm very happy with my calibration. I have to admit that this was my first calibration and probably the hardest. I did a Panny 4000 PJ, a Hitachi PJ and a Samsung LCD TV and all those 3 were much easier.


I really suggest that you run the iris in fixed mode. dynamic Iris makes things worse. Also set the lamp mode to eco or full. No A1 or A2. Again it affects settings and it's very hard to calibrate.


This could make the blacks a bit washed out.

This also shows the true native contrast of the z2000!


When you get really use to it, go into the custom Gamma to adjust the greyscale points individually. Play only with the Red and Blue. Don't play with the Green.


Then you could get into the color management system and play only with the first 2 slide bars. Don't play with the 3rd one. Be very careful with this menu. If it makes things worse, just use the native color preset.


One last thing I notice when playing with the i1d2 is the fact that it asks for too much red (at least un my case). In my case, I can do an offset using an i1 Pro, so this way, when I calibrate with the D2, I don't have to pump red as much as before.


I spent about 3 months on this PJ!


Feel free to ask questions


Pitou!

When you say the i1 Display asks for too much red, would you say it reads red about 5% low? 10% low? Basically, when you calibrate with the i1 Pro to D65 and then measure with an uncorrected i1 Display, how low does the red measure relative to what it measured with the i1 Pro?
 

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zapper,


I suggest providing your results for others to evaluate. If you are trying to get the arrow into the center of the target, you may be misleading yourself. A lot of calibration is understanding the shortfalls of your display and adjusting to the best you can get and there are a lot of compromises. Note the settings and just measure the grayscale and primaries and secondaries, post the readings, and others will give you input. Don't get discouraged! I've had very good luck with my Sanyo PLV-Z60 and an eye one LT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guy's have not messed with it in the last couple of day's, sort of feel disgusted but will use your recommendations when I approach it again.
 

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As the rest of people are saying, don't feel too bad, and post your stuff so we can help you... in the meantime...

Forget about the target for grayscale at least. Pay attention to the color bars... get them to 100%.
 

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Quote:
When you say the i1 Display asks for too much red, would you say it reads red about 5% low? 10% low? Basically, when you calibrate with the i1 Pro to D65 and then measure with an uncorrected i1 Display, how low does the red measure relative to what it measured with the i1 Pro?

@PlasmaPZ80U,


I just did a quick read using a 80% pattern and here is what percentage I get for both probes: (btw, I'm using Chromapure)


Red Green Blue

i1Pro: 101.7 99.7 98.6

i1D2: 85.9 105.6 89.3


So as you can see the difference is huge.


Also, keep in mind that this can differ from other i1D2 probes as well.


Pitou!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by glaufman /forum/post/18142814


As the rest of people are saying, don't feel too bad, and post your stuff so we can help you... in the meantime...

Forget about the target for grayscale at least. Pay attention to the color bars... get them to 100%.

You mean where the so called target arrow is and then adjust the colors so that they will balance???
 

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Wow. Validation is a wonderful thing! I discovered last year that I had to take red to 80-85% on my Z2000, using an i1d2 for calibration. I think I even discussed this on the Z2000 Tweak thread. I think it's important to mention that this projector does not offer primary gains and cuts. It's one simple control per color. I've tried the custom gamma controls and not had good results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello, well started again messing around with my Eye one and did the HFCR contrast on my front projector had to find the best setting that would show the most Contrast amplitude 100% setting on some settings you could not see the Pluge bars on the sides anyways this one was a breeze right of the bat just about scored a bull eye on my target and my final setting to the contrast was -18 the y factor ended up at .335 dam close to the .336 that is recommended per the HFCR and then save it on my laptop, that is were my problem started when I opened the file again it was empty, zip.


Thought that it was saved correctly as stated per the HFCR guess that it wasn't, how do you guy's save the file? I am under the impression that had to save it to the HFCR file as follows ColorHFCR-contrastBEF.chc, then nothing on the file when it's opened??? What am I doing wrong?????
 
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