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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,


My Da-lite Designer Contour Electrol HP arrived today and I'm a bit confused about the power supply.


It comes with a switch that you install on the wall and need to run power to. I was under the impression that there was a wire with plug coming out of the casing with a switch. I remember reading some post that indicated this was what they were working with.


Am I misinformed? Or, what is the recommendation for hooking this up to power without having to hire an electrician to run a line?


Thanks in advance.


Bob


PS By the way, this thing is huge! And to think I was considering a 50" plasma....I think I'm going to enjoy 92" when my AE700 comes in, hopefully before the end of the month.
 

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Bob,


First, I have to agree with Larry on at least one thing... the dealer should be able to offer some help since they have likely dealt with lots of installation questions on that unit.


Regarding the instructions, everyone knows to get rid of those ASAP!:)


Here are my thoughts...


I don't see any of the Dalites with standard power cords with inline switches, so unless I missed something on the website, it may be difficult for you to even go that direction.


Also, the wall switch should have stop-start features that I imagine the inline switch would not easily do.


You must have a power receptacle close to the screen, so the wiring job should not be too complex, depending upon where you want to locate the switch.


Since it sounds like you have some time, I would recommend the electrician route. I have been doing some remodeling lately, and IMO this would be a quick job for an electrician, and I imagine you can find a good one at a reasonable price where you are in PA.


The wall switch will look the best anyway, and there are some optional ones on the Dalite website that have locks (I would probably need that with my family).


BTW, I understand what it is like to wait. And from everything I have been reading, you have a great screen/projector combination. I have a 92" HP Model C manual just sitting, patiently waiting for an HS51.


Hope I have been of some help and hope to hear about your projector!


Mark
 

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Here's what I did for my Cosmo Electro that you might consider. I did this until I have time to bury to wire in the wall and remote the screen to the projector power.


Do NOT do this unless you have a good understanding of electrical wiring and wiring safety. I am not responsible if you hurt anyone or anything. Hire a qualified electrician if you're not sure.


I got an electrical box to mount the switch in, and some electrical wire and an electrical wall-plug. I ran wire from the plug to the box, wired up the switch like they show, and then ran wire to the terminals in the screen (the wire I got had three conductors, I used the one without insulation for the neutral and the other two for the switched hots). Currently, the switch box is sitting on the floor and we switch it with our toe, until such time as I automate and hide the whole thing.


Make sure not to miswire it; if ever both hot wires to the screen are hot at the same time, bad things probably happen.


///[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi,


And thanks!


I understand the reluctance to offer advice in the area of wiring, but I do understand the elementary principles of electricity and can follow the wiring schematic that came with the screen. I was simply wanting to see what creative solutions others have come up with to solve this issue. Yours is very helpful.


I wonder if there is a more cosmetic approach, rather than jury rigging the switch box provided...maybe another switch that can be installed that offers the same "up - off - down" potential.


Thanks again,


Bob
 

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...an electrician can run inwall for you a standard 14-2 wire tap from a nearby wall outlet to the wall mount DaLite switch, and from the Dalite switch run a 14-3 branch (red/black/white) to the wiring panel located in the left end of the screen housing. All wiring should be with ground. If feasible, you can locate the wall switch where it is reasonably convenient from your viewing position.
 

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...congratulations on the install -- Soon you can sit back and enjoy
 

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Hi,

I'm in the same boat as BobP, with a new hi-power electrol. i want to do basically as Jedi suggested except plug it into an x-10 wall mount appliance module and use an ir543 to have it work with my mx-500 remote. Will this work? What setting do i leave the supplied switch or can I remove that entirely from the setup. I have not used x-10 before. Any help or suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Charlie
 

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I was lucky in that I mounted the screen in front of an attic crawl space and the wall behind it is a closet. I was able to tap into an outlet box in the closet wall for power and mount the low voltage controller in the closet up high on the wall so I can get to the fuse in the future if necessary (was tempted to put it out of sight in the attic). Mounting the wall switch was trickier. I managed to find a section of the wall with horizontal bracing that blocked me -after making a hole in the wall, of course. I moved the switch destination up above the horizontal bracing and then I was good to go (except for the hole I made - oops). I opted for the IR wireless because I thought I might like to program my Sony remote for it. But, after using it awhile, I discovered that practically every IR remote in the house (slight exageration - at least 3) would inadvertantly raise and lower the screen. So, Jason arranged with Dalite to get me the RF version. I will install this weekend.


There is a lot to be said for the way Elite did it. One cord with motor and IR stuff all enclosed within the screen. Wake up, Dalite.
 

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Why doesn't everyone use a 12 volt trigger to control the screen?
 

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This is very interesting, I recently also got my Stewart electric screen, which appears to use the same cabling, power-specs as the Da-Lite Infrared Control System ($230).


My Stewart Lexus A Firehawk Eletriscreen appears to follow the general schematics to connect almost any standard Infrared Control System. The one from Stewart is like 600 dollars, and comes with same stuff as the Da-lite solution.


Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't just get the Da-lite Infrared Control System, and save a chunk of cash?


Infrared Low Voltage Remote Control System

Da-Lite 82434 $223.00
http://www.thefinalclick.com/shop/cu...roductid=82434
http://www.focusedtechnology.com/infraredremote.html


Thanks,

Fabian.
 

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Pertaining to the original post, the standard control electric screens come with is a high voltage wall switch. You have to run a standard 110v into a single gang box, and then a 4 lead wire to the motor of the screen itself. Matchup the colors and then it will control it. There are options you can purchase as well (IR, trigger, low voltage, etc...) and they wire differently.
 
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