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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Instead of hijacking N8DOGG's thread on the Kone mouse
.



Still a WIP.


First pic of rig is with an after market clone 350mm MOMO wheel. A custom made wheel plate with Leo Bodnar's SLI-Pro display, buttons and switches and it's mounted on a Logitech G25 steering wheel hub via a Chilicoke adapter. The AutoMeter tacho is attached to a Symprojects Rev-burner and the two other digital displays are from Symprojects also, a GI-Max for the gear and a SPI-D for the speed. Pedals are FANATEC Club Sport Pedals (CSP). The rig is an Obutto Ozone with triple monitor stand and there is a Buttkicker attached to the frame. Also a FREX Seq shifter to the right. Triple ASUS 23.6" monitors powered by Nvidia Surround using SLI'd GTX295 x 2 (had to find a use for them
). CPU is an old OC'd Intel e8400 @ 4.28.


Sim on screen is rFactor.











Well the steering wheel portion is mostly done, except maybe a few button changes to use encoders instead. Here is the rig with the 320mm MOMO Mod 88 steering wheel attached. It took over a month to get the MOMO from the seller on e-bay in the US to arrive here in Canada.





Work still to be done:

Cover wood top with some carbon fiber film.

Build a dedicated button box for the FREX Shifter.
 

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Tinker, have you had any problems with your surround set up? I've had problems with drivers and monitor ordering and just about everything else. It's working, but is really touchy/finicky.
 

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all I can say is
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79
Tinker, have you had any problems with your surround set up? I've had problems with drivers and monitor ordering and just about everything else. It's working, but is really touchy/finicky.
I really have had no major issues with the vid surround with drivers or ordering of the monitors, the the latter was PITA with Nvidia. I was using some old Nvidia GTX280s at first then I finally ended up using SLI GTX295s that were sitting around. I didn't have a probm either when I was using ATI Eyefinity using a 5870 when I initially setup the tri displays. Only real issue I had was aligning the monitors, the stand has very little adjustability so it was a PITA to get all three physically aligned 100% to my liking, still not 100%
.


It's a PITA with Nvidia in that you have to reset the rez to default before you can start a new bezel compensation. AMD drivers does it better. Wow AMD drivers that do something better then Nvidia...never thght I would ever say something like that, ever
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by rr6966
Holy cow! Pretty impressive. For me, I suck at racing games, but I would love something similar in a WWII flight sim.
Actually the Obutto can be config as a Flight Sim cockpit. They sell the required addons. I use to luv flight sims. Falcon 3.0 with its 4" thick manual
, European Airwar was my fave with its custom skins, and one of the 1st online gaming I ever did, Luv'd it even with the occasional "warping" (lag
) planes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here are two pics of the CVs steering wheel button/switch plate that was made for me. It's just waiting for the buttons and switches to be installed and wired up. There are ten Knitter buttons and two 12 position rota switches and a cut out for a Leo Bodnar SLI-Pro. Center cut out on back to accommodate the Chilicoke adapter.


Front Side



Back side



Initial test mount



The 350mm wheel felt real nice and drove well but I had probms reaching the buttons without taking my hands off the wheel. I mounted a 320mm test wheel and def I can reach the buttons a lot better. Not as smooth with the 320mm as with the 350mm. The 320mm tester was the wheel sent to me by mistake instead of the wheel I ordered and they told me to keep it. They also ran out of the wheel I tried to get. I got a full refund for the wheel and S/H but I did pay $16 to UPS Canada for broker fees and duties
. So after many thgts about the amount of monies I have spent on clone wheels, I bit the bullet and ordered a real MOMO MOD 88 320mm wheel. Cost a lot but not as much as the AutoMeter Tacho that I got that I rarely use...
. I replaced the red chicken head knobs in V1 with RS knobs in V2 which are easier to use with gloves on. Here are the pics of my on going wheel swap.



Beta 1.2 320mm wheel on my old Playseats Evo rig.



V1 350mm wheel (really like the looks and feel of the wheel, only if I would have gotten the blk rim instead)



V2 320mm fit tester wheel (hate the looks of the wheel)





UPDATED:

almost the final wheel, MOMO Mod 88 320mm
 

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Got to admit, that is pretty freakin awesome man! I'm going to have MAINGEAR build me a new PC rig soon (no patience to tweak it out and I know the owner who's giving me a decent hookup). He convinced me to go dual video card so I can do the 3 screen display if I choose. I have an older wheel but am looking at the new Fanatec GT2 wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaXGTS /forum/post/19853913


Dude, you really need to work on serious wire management. It looks like you're racing inside a spaghetti bowl.

Set up is in a constant state of flux...really I am just lazy DUDE...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker /forum/post/0


Here are two pics of the CVs steering wheel button/switch plate that was made for me. It's just waiting for the buttons and switches to be installed and wired up. There are ten Knitter buttons and two 12 position rota switches and a cut out for a Leo Bodnar SLI-Pro. Center cut out on back to accommodate the Chilicoke adapter.


Front Side


Back side


Initial test mount


The 350mm wheel felt real nice and drove well but I had probms reaching the buttons without taking my hands off the wheel. I mounted a 320mm test wheel and def I can reach the buttons a lot better. Not as smooth with the 320mm as with the 350mm. The 320mm tester was the wheel sent to me by mistake instead of the wheel I ordered and they told me to keep it. They also ran out of the wheel I tried to get. I got a full refund for the wheel and S/H but I did pay $16 to UPS Canada for broker fees and duties
. So after many thgts about the amount of monies I have spent on clone wheels, I bit the bullet and ordered a real MOMO MOD 88 320mm wheel. Cost a lot but not as much as the AutoMeter Tacho that I got that I rarely use...
. I replaced the red chicken head knobs in V1 with RS knobs in V2 which are easier to use with gloves on. Here are the pics of my on going wheel swap.


Beta 1.2 320mm wheel on my old Playseats Evo rig.


V1 350mm wheel (really like the looks and feel of the wheel, only if I would have gotten the blk rim instead)


V2 320mm fit tester wheel (hate the looks of the wheel)

Jesus, I've been been putting a bunch of money into my car, sporting it out, and your system is nicer than my car, that's awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
One more to test...an Italian ISOTTA F1 styled wheel. Another month and another wheel...I need help...
:lol:. It's a 330mm wheel and made in Italy (and not cheap). Its leather like polyurethane and not real leather
. I was looking for a cut/open top wheel to mount the SLI-M and SS-01 and the MOMO's and others were too small for my liking (250mm-270mm) and/or real expensive ($250us plus). This was the best that I found.


It looks a lot better in the pics. No horn button but that's OK since I never used any that I have gotten with all the other wheels that I bought. The wheel has zero dish offset, so it's flat. Its 330mm at the widest pt. Very quick wheel response from what I am used to. It is very light weight but still a strong wheel. Grips are thin, a tad thicker then the G25 stock wheel. I even find they are thin for me wearing race gloves. Maybe I am just to use to the MOMO. Bad is that that being flat with no dish offset, the 350mm Chilicoke paddles are a tad too long and the distance gap between the wheel and the paddles is min and to drive I have to have only my thumbs hooked to the wheel with the the other fingers on the paddles. Not enuf room in between for fingers. The 320mm paddles worked the best but one of them is screwed up. The stock G25 paddles are way too short. I will see when a friend orders his Chilicoke stuff that I can add another set of 320mm and split with him the shipping cost. For now I am sticking with the MOMO.




 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkwing /forum/post/19861258


So for awhile I have been wanting to build a driving simulator with 3 large displays and all the bells and whistles. Well I bought a 2007 Noble M400 instead lol

But a sim rig is cheaper on gas then the Noble and you can not die in the sim rig if you want to be reckless...
. BTW nice car.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker
But a sim rig is cheaper on gas then the Noble and you can not die in the sim rig if you want to be reckless...
So true! But hey I am glad you prefer the MOMO, cause that is what my Noble comes with haha

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I resolved the issue with the ISOTTA wheel being to tight for the paddles on a G25 hub. At first I thght about using washers as spacers but rejected it since it might be unstable due to the six individual attach pts. Finally I use a horn ring. The ones that come with the wheels that surround the center horn button and that worked great as a spacer. No movement since it's an all in one unit. I had to lower the FFB in the logi profiler to 110% from 125% that was used with the MOMO setup. Boy the ISOTTA wheel feels real quick. I just can't fig out why that is (lighter weight ?), but it def feels quicker then the MOMO. It's not as pretty as the MOMO tho
.


Plse no comments on the mess...it's always a WIP with my rig...
.
 
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